Just fyi, Tesco and the hypermarts don't purchase their Mobil1 from M'sian sources and import them from overseas. That isn't necessarily good as the formula overseas isn't the same as the one in M'sia. Your shorter OCI is probably because of this formula difference. The oil here has been developed for our weather, also lately it's been rumoured that the base oil has been downgraded from group IV to group III which is kinda sad really. But it's a rumour so I can't confirm this.
Engine Oil Change
- Thread starter OKLY
- Start date
bro, colour of the engine oil has nothing got to do with your engine oil status i your car.... the cheapest was to determine the oil status would be dripping a drop of oil on a piece of drawing paper 9or white name card). google for "poor man oil test" for more details...
izso, mobil 1 has always been processed outta GIII, but its highly refined so much so, it can perform as good as if not better then the synthetics. my fren uses it in his waja, and change oil once a year, a lot of commute in dat car, the engine has never been noisy.. of course, he buys his oil from esso station, so no issue with the oil being bogus, d engine has been filled with good quality oil from day one
The initial batches of Mobil1 gold were GIV la. The GIII is something that happened in the last 5 to 8 years. Not that it matters though. It's a pretty decent oil, but for the same price I'd rather get something else... and I'm getting it at employee purchase price sommore.
I find the type of engine oil used and OCI is like a baby and diaper brand you use to wrap him. Use a good baby diaper and can stretch your baby feel good level duration before diaper gets loaded with pee and feel good level drops... Cheaper ones shorter interval before baby whines. If you keep stretching either good or bad diaper till feel good level goes down, end result will be the same - no diff la. If you keep the good diaper change interval the same as the cheaper ones, baby feels more comfortable and happy all day long! Treat your car engine like a baby! The extra margin offered by a semi or syn gives you some additional time in case you are too busy but don't always abuse-la... Even if your car engine internals looks sparkling clean inside that's just the looks as you did not actually measure the wear and tear inside. My 2 cents.
Diapers! HAHAHA! 
Aiya, no need think so hard la. Choose the oil weight based on your cars requirements. If the service manual says 5W30, then stick with 5W30. Whether mineral, synthetic or fully syn totally depends on the way you drive. If you're not a heavy footer and don't go track or drive like a madman up Genting Sempah, then you're all fine with semi-syns or minerals as long as you stick to the recommended OCI.
If you're a heavy footer and all that then fully syns or even ester based fully syns would be the better option since they are more resistant to oil breakdown and have better heat resistance and dissapation and all that.
If your car is an old junk and has never smelt fully syn oils before, don't be a wise crack and use fully syn unless you're prepared to replace broken oil seals and gaskets.
If you're a mix between heavy and light footer, then semi-syn is plenty enough or if you have the budget go for fully syn. No harm done.
If you're a broke bugger like me then you'd go for whatever oil that suites your budget. If you're not a broke bugger then just buy whatever type that tickles your fancy.
If it's good report it here, if it's bad report it here and let everyone know your feedback based on your car type and driving habits.
Ixeo taiko : Not all fully syns can last 1 year la. Try that with Royal Purple and you might find yourself with a supremely rough sounding engine and bad fuel consumption after about 5 to 6 months (or 8000km whichever comes first). Well, that was the case for me anyway.
Aiya, no need think so hard la. Choose the oil weight based on your cars requirements. If the service manual says 5W30, then stick with 5W30. Whether mineral, synthetic or fully syn totally depends on the way you drive. If you're not a heavy footer and don't go track or drive like a madman up Genting Sempah, then you're all fine with semi-syns or minerals as long as you stick to the recommended OCI.
If you're a heavy footer and all that then fully syns or even ester based fully syns would be the better option since they are more resistant to oil breakdown and have better heat resistance and dissapation and all that.
If your car is an old junk and has never smelt fully syn oils before, don't be a wise crack and use fully syn unless you're prepared to replace broken oil seals and gaskets.
If you're a mix between heavy and light footer, then semi-syn is plenty enough or if you have the budget go for fully syn. No harm done.
If you're a broke bugger like me then you'd go for whatever oil that suites your budget. If you're not a broke bugger then just buy whatever type that tickles your fancy.
If it's good report it here, if it's bad report it here and let everyone know your feedback based on your car type and driving habits.
Ixeo taiko : Not all fully syns can last 1 year la. Try that with Royal Purple and you might find yourself with a supremely rough sounding engine and bad fuel consumption after about 5 to 6 months (or 8000km whichever comes first). Well, that was the case for me anyway.
guys, i wanna ask. can i buy and keep engine oil for about half a year? and also. For myvi, is it suitable for me to use semi synt 10w40? Currently im using fully synt from produa .
yes, engine oil have quite a long shelf life, u can keep them for a long time. myvi uses a 30 weight oil imo, keep on using the fully synth sir
rahim.jidin.full
From Facebook
Engine oil may last very long time, for years if they are not in the engine. Once in the engine, viscosity get thin due to petrol leaks and Engine oil has to carry carbons & impurities.
For 1st time migration, maybe good idea to change oil at 5000km to flush out old debris.
Fully synthetic is the best, but existing engine leakage condition may degrade it.
For more frequent oil change with $$ in mind, I'd use semi-syn... the technology is getting very good..
Check my site for blog on engine change procedure if anyone interested.. ;)
ilario
Known Member
what is suitable engine oil for turbo engine...ie..
lancer evo 9?..mine is using lucas 20W50...fully syn....any recommendation here.and please state the reason..thank u....
lancer evo 9?..mine is using lucas 20W50...fully syn....any recommendation here.and please state the reason..thank u....High heat resistance, good viscosity at high temps, xW50 range oils will suite your turbo car no problem.what is suitable engine oil for turbo engine...ie..
Personally I recommend the Motul Ester based range of oils, good sh*t and expensive too.
this will be a never ending debate.....
i personally dislikes motul products, be it engine oil, coolant etc etc
last time i used the 300v competition 15w-50, the oil temp was too high, during standstill traffic jam read 100°C, and while at highway the needle touches 125°C...way too ridiculuous
as for inugel coolant which cost me rm43 a liter which my car needs 8 bottles of it, it boils too quick, during dyno after 20 runs...totally unacceptable for me
so, i switched back to my favourite oil, mobil1 5w-50, and the oil temp never touch 95°C in traffic jam, and in sepang track the max reading is only 122°C, and for coolant i use the oem coolant with millers oil coolant enhancer
i personally dislikes motul products, be it engine oil, coolant etc etc
last time i used the 300v competition 15w-50, the oil temp was too high, during standstill traffic jam read 100°C, and while at highway the needle touches 125°C...way too ridiculuous
as for inugel coolant which cost me rm43 a liter which my car needs 8 bottles of it, it boils too quick, during dyno after 20 runs...totally unacceptable for me
so, i switched back to my favourite oil, mobil1 5w-50, and the oil temp never touch 95°C in traffic jam, and in sepang track the max reading is only 122°C, and for coolant i use the oem coolant with millers oil coolant enhancer
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