Well this is my second setup.... but let's talk my 1st setup 1st
well my 1st setup is b16a head + b16b cam + b18cr IM + b18cr block(skimmed)+ b16b piston + b20b rod + b20b crank with ACL bearing + O.S Giken single + b18cr96 header+vfc. at the end of 3 years plus... my ACL bearing worn out because b20b no balancing and my top liner worn out also because my block skimmed the compression too high(engine knocking). so white smoke when vtec engage. so on august 2011 Engine R.I.P
Now second rebuild done on october 2011
B16b block + b16b head + b16b cam + b18cr im + b16b piston + b18cr crank and rod + Exedy 3 puck clutch and Spoon flywheel + b18cr98 spec header+ ECU rechipped +vfc.
Compare good/bad1st setup vs 2nd setup.
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1) Now since b16b block and b18cr same height you can find wikipedia. haha now pay RM90 for 1.6 roadtax but 1.8 engine. unless u punching number
2) Engine run more smoother than 1st setup. never use b20b crank without weight balancing other wise even u got ACL bearing also worn out. keep Stock Type R is good enough already
3) Since 1st setup use O.S giken. Of cause is nice grip and sound Gling Gling. but my pressure plate got crack... so turn to spoon flywheel and 3 puck exedy. I dunno why my 1st setup O.s giken so stiffer than current exedy and horspower below 250bhp type r or exedy is enough. but O.s giken flywheel is lighter about 4.0kg and spoon 4.2kg, toda 4.1kg. But to me not much difference but just miss O.s giken clutch sound.
4) both 1st setup and 2nd setup feel a lot of torque. even my friend feel it too. But 1st setup engine knocking make liner worn out make white smoke and consume more engine oil (always need topup engine oil). Some more losing power and compression. my second build is safe and no knocking as long as ur short block or head no skimmed .
5) 2nd setup got ecu rechipped haha now the car is easy to drive than before(my VFC just to set vtec engage point 6k rpm). because when u use CTR piston, compression high then your idle like up and down. when low rpm is hard to drive. Rechipped is the best once your car all is complete.hehe ask ur mech rechipped and make power bhp@9500rpm. My 2nd setup is 9500 rpm. mine 9500rpm (without titanium retainer) vs 8000rpm. feel the difference. Me thinking if got budget to make 11000rpm. but expensive when I ask my mech.
6) since my engine is rpm 9500. 96spec 4-2-1 header hard to reach. even when it reach it sound like hell. when using 98spec 4-1. easily reach 9500 rpm and sound nice too.
My opinion is what ever you mod if stay in Type R parts will be more safe and durable. Unless you want heavily more to make your car quicker and more than 200>hp than choose wisely component and a good mech. Why Good mech? For Example some mech intro u to upgrade h22a injector or type r distributor or larger TB or skunk2 pro 3 Cam. That all upgrade won't make your car go faster. unless ur engine overbore 81mm to 84mm, engine already increase displacement then h22a, larger TB, skunk2 pro 3 Cam, mugen/spoon header works here. otherwise waste money. oh yeah don't upgrade type r distributor unless u need to. b16a/b16b/b18cr distributor same power output. just different obd1 and obd2 harness cable.
Hope I answered many question from you. Thank You