D16A Turbo EG8

veil4G63

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Nov 11, 2005
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Ok.. to all the brothers or sisters in ZTH, some questions from junior here

Have anyone BOT a D16A engine before?

I plan to go for it, but only wanted to get on low boost lets say around 0.6-0.8 bar maybe.

I just bought a manual gearbox with LSD for D16A and i get an Exedy racing clutch already.

so i was planning who has the experience for the SOHC VTEC Turbo. please let me know.

1) What piston and conrod to upgrade to?
2) what injector to use? 250 cc? 450cc?
3) What turbo maybe be applicable for better response and low boost?
4) how to save cost?
5) where to get the turbo manifold?
6) on low boost do i have to upgrade my bearings?
7) piping size?
8) etc, please share your experience.

P.S. Just want a normal turbo ride, not for DRAG or Show off, i just love turbo and driving. :driver:
 

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donCityZ

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I read somewhere that d series conrod is too thin can break. but since u boosting low, not sure whether need to change or not.
 

SYeNi69

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speed2horizon

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Ok.. to all the brothers or sisters in ZTH, some questions from junior here

Have anyone BOT a D16A engine before?

I plan to go for it, but only wanted to get on low boost lets say around 0.6-0.8 bar maybe.

I just bought a manual gearbox with LSD for D16A and i get an Exedy racing clutch already.

so i was planning who has the experience for the SOHC VTEC Turbo. please let me know.

1) What piston and conrod to upgrade to?
As mentined above, VITARA pistons and Eagle Rods.U can stick back to your standard conrods if u are not targetting high horses. Ur crank is ready for 500HP monster. Conrods, within 200hp, Still can take it..

2) what injector to use? 250 cc? 450cc?
Go for 390cc from 4G93T. but make sure u instal resistors into ur injectors module of ur engine wiring. Else, it'll either fry ur distributor or ECU.

450cc for higher boost. Also need to install resistor pack.

3) What turbo maybe be applicable for better response and low boost?
For low boost application, <0.7bar
Garrett T25/MHI TD04L

For moderate slightly higher boost application, >0.7bar and <1.2bar
TD05 14B from VR4 RS/Garrett GT2560

For high boost application, >1.2 bar to 2bar
Garrett GT28/GT30

4) how to save cost?
There's no actual way of saving cost in BOT. The best cost saving solution is to do everything right at the first place. It can reduce ur injuries.

DIY is a good option.

5) where to get the turbo manifold?
Customize at AH HENG/JIAN HANG/IJAL

Or get it from Drift House aka Garage R for the infinite turbo manifold. But the flange is T3 if I'm not mistaken. Maybe u may need to add on a customize adapter to match the turbo flange.

Order oversea.

D16 turbo manifold A

D16 turbo manifold B

D16 turbo manifold C

Google it. There's plenty.

6) on low boost do i have to upgrade my bearings?
Like mentioned above. It's not necessary. But why not do it at the same time since u are opening ur engine.

7) piping size?
2" > 2.5" for low boos application.

8) etc, please share your experience.

Piggyback is necessary. Cause without piggyback, ur engine will stall when the MAP sensor detects anything above +ve pressure.

E-manage/SAFC/Standalones...

U may opt to go for the non VTEC head. That's what most overseas D16 monster does.

Just to share something that may trigger ur interest. Hehe...

YouTube- dirty d series compilation GT30R

P.S. Just want a normal turbo ride, not for DRAG or Show off, i just love turbo and driving. :driver:
1) Vitara piston / Eagle rods ...
2) 390cc GSR
3) TD04 Mirage or GSR
4) DIY kekeekekeke ...
5) Depends on you ... Tong/halfcut/zth/mudah
6) nope ...
7) intercooler piping - just make it same size as ur tb / exhaust - downpipe and to the back 2.5 inch should be fine :)
8) http://www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...ge-vtec-comprehensive-info-on-d15b-d15z7.html
Hehe...
 
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Turbo676

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4) How to save cost

if you cant afford eagle conrods, then try n find some conrods from the b20b i.e. from the CRV.these fit right onto the d16 crank and match the stock length of the d16 conrods.

u'll need to notch your block as the thicker rod from the b20b will graze the block. same thing if u use eagle rods.

also, your stock honda map sensor only reads to 0.7 bar / 11psi. the stock rods can take up to 0.7 bar. (it'll throw a CEL code if u run boost on a stock ecu - need a rechip at least)

so unless u plan on running higher boost with a aftermarket map sensor & EMS, stick with the stock rods.

4) How to save cost.

instead of an EMS, try chipping your ecu i.e. uberdata, chrome etc

4) How to save cost.

go to : Honda | Acura Research, Reviews, Performance Parts, Owners - Honda-Tech.com
 
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speed2horizon

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Are you trying to say that U're gonna use 2" [i[i all the way from IC to TB..? Can... To achieve the response... But 2" TB.... ? kinda small though... It's only 50mm..
Are you sure..?

If you are using anything more than that, U need to do an expansion to suit back ur TB> If u use an expanding Silicon hose also can...
 

veilsideboyz

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Ok... I just follow the diameter same size as TB..which is 2.5" :)
and the Air filter to Turbo T28 I will use 2.5" also :wavey:
 

speed2horizon

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Ok... I just follow the diameter same size as TB..which is 2.5" :)
and the Air filter to Turbo T28 I will use 2.5" also :wavey:
Hoho... For the air intake to the turbo compressor inlet, the bigger the better... The shorter, the better. Normally follow ur MAF size... Or if MAP, follow the the filter size, or no filter... Keke...

For ic to tb, u can use 2", then expand it to 2.5"... Reputated ic piping installer know what to do... I just left it to JH, they settle everything for me... No need mahfan. Let them do the mahfan...
 

veilsideboyz

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Hoho... For the air intake to the turbo compressor inlet, the bigger the better... The shorter, the better. Normally follow ur MAF size... Or if MAP, follow the the filter size, or no filter... Keke...

For ic to tb, u can use 2", then expand it to 2.5"... Reputated ic piping installer know what to do... I just left it to JH, they settle everything for me... No need mahfan. Let them do the mahfan...
Bigger better but I dont think is shorter... I think about 1meter long the piping from air filter to Turbo....
You mean ic to tb better keep 2.5" right ? JH at batu cave ?? sunday got open ??
 

speed2horizon

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Bigger better but I dont think is shorter... I think about 1meter long the piping from air filter to Turbo....
You mean ic to tb better keep 2.5" right ? JH at batu cave ?? sunday got open ??
Shorter better... conform.. direct air intake... For ppl whom use MAP sensor they have the luxury to leave the turbine covered by just 1 mesh... Very good spools up... Longer piping increases the friction and head loss in the piping itself... But u don't have a choice... Cause ur ut turbine is at the back facing the fireewall...

IC pipin, for response u can use 2" until TB Right before TB, expand.. High boost, application, then go for 2.5".
 

veilsideboyz

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Ok ~ Then I leave all the piping to 2".. ?
If next time wanna boost high only go for 2.5 " ??
Becoz next project , I will only boost 0.5bar... :(
Shorter better... conform.. direct air intake
But I have no choice... So the air filter piping to turbo put 2.5 " ok ar ? long 1 meter :biggrin:
 

stupiddog

Known Member
Senior Member
Mar 11, 2006
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Ok.. to all the brothers or sisters in ZTH, some questions from junior here

Have anyone BOT a D16A engine before?

I plan to go for it, but only wanted to get on low boost lets say around 0.6-0.8 bar maybe.

I just bought a manual gearbox with LSD for D16A and i get an Exedy racing clutch already.

so i was planning who has the experience for the SOHC VTEC Turbo. please let me know.

1) What piston and conrod to upgrade to?
2) what injector to use? 250 cc? 450cc?
3) What turbo maybe be applicable for better response and low boost?
4) how to save cost?
5) where to get the turbo manifold?
6) on low boost do i have to upgrade my bearings?
7) piping size?
8) etc, please share your experience.

P.S. Just want a normal turbo ride, not for DRAG or Show off, i just love turbo and driving. :driver:
is not how much boost u wan to determine the built... is how many horsepower u wan...
if u are boosting o.5 bar.. is not neccessary to change the piston or the conrod... a stock d16 conrod and piston can take up to 250 whp with a good tune if ur aiming for 200hp or over is advisable to change piston and conrod... if u wan cant afford better fuel management u can go for safc with 450cc injectors...with safc and 450cc injectors can give only bring as far as 200whp.... as for manifold there is a cheap route..not need worry about ur bearings... d16 with 200h[ over still using stock bearings..
u can use a d16 stock manifold and modify it... if i not mistaken the manifold belong to the older d16 series on eg or before that just weld a flange that suites the turbo u wan to install
 

speed2horizon

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is not how much boost u wan to determine the built... is how many horsepower u wan...
if u are boosting o.5 bar.. is not neccessary to change the piston or the conrod... a stock d16 conrod and piston can take up to 250 whp with a good tune if ur aiming for 200hp or over is advisable to change piston and conrod... if u wan cant afford better fuel management u can go for safc with 450cc injectors...with safc and 450cc injectors can give only bring as far as 200whp.... as for manifold there is a cheap route..not need worry about ur bearings... d16 with 200h[ over still using stock bearings..
u can use a d16 stock manifold and modify it... if i not mistaken the manifold belong to the older d16 series on eg or before that just weld a flange that suites the turbo u wan to install
450cc can gives u more than 200whp... Tested so far 230whp on safc with 80% duty cycle...