Cleaning Throttle Body & ICSV

Cleaning Throttle Body & Idling Valve

Halo,

DIY Throttle Body and ISCV for the poor driver like me.
DOne this yesterday.











The results?

Idles with AC on and off is very stable, no more dropping like the engine wanna die anymore. Throttle response improved dramatically.

Tooo lazy to DIY this? gimme a call cos I am considering offering this service. Normal charge rate for this sort of work at any workshop is around RM120. Mine will be lower. And normally the workshops didn't even touch and clean ISCV valve and Intake Ports on the Cylinder Head like I do.

TQ

Halo fren, TQ for the support and queries.

Ah yes earlier I was in a rush so I didn't quite explain what have to be done.

To open the whole throttle body assembly you will need:
1. 8mm 9 Inch T Hex (I custom made mine)
2. 5 Inch T Wrench with Socket (Custom Made again)
3. 10 and 12mm Socket
4. Pliers & Nose Pliers
5. Screwdrivers
6. Carb Cleaner and Lacquer Thinner for finishing.
7. Air Gun
8. VERY Strong 12mm Ratchet Wrench
9. Working Lamp
10. LOTS of patience and a box of cigarettes - where applicable hahahaha

How to open?:
- Air Box & Air Pipe assembly comes off first
- Intake Plenum Cover Second
- Right Side Vacuum hoses & metal fitting third
- Curved Internal Trumpets fourth
- Lower Intake Plenum fifth
- Left Side Vacuum hoses sixt
- Throttle linkages seventh
- Fuel lines eight
- THEN....

The most utterly difficult part is to remove EIGHT super tight 12mm bolts from the throttle body mount. This is where the custom T wrench and Super Strong Ratchet Wrench required - without them it is near impossible to open because four of the bolts are placed deep below the throttle bodies. You take care of this the whole throttle body assembly will come off easily.

Last,
Before u can take out the throttle body assembly, you will have to reach low on the block body to remove Intake Plenum stand which is on the left side. There u go. Proceed with cleaing like nobody business hahahahaha.

Of course, I use a Carb Cleaner together with High Pressure Air Gun from a Compressor to do the cleaning on EVERY nook and crannies of the Vacuum Passages. Spray the carb cleaner and then pressurized them in using air gun. Repeat until u can see that no dark liquid coming out from the other end.

Clean the whole head? bugger I plan to totally remove the head quite soon. Oh yes we all know about the notoriously noisy VVT pulley and 20V Shims - And honestly I love the DIESEL sound of it - any hardcore 4A-GE enthusiast should be loving it too hahahahaha - makes 20V very unique.

DIY head porting? oh yes that can be done too hahahaaha. use kikir and tooth brush to do it hahahahaha

RESULTS:
I can confirm today that my idling problems are TOTALLY GONE - NO more engine dying in the middle of hot sunny day jams, RPM remains stable at 800-850 ranges (I use digital RSM). And I swear that acceleration has improved dramatically too. FYI I reset my ECU after cleaning so that it will be forced to recalculate AFR MAP based on the improved vacuum travel and air intake.

Too much hassle to do this by yourself? gimme a call budies hahahahaha

Halo fren, TQ for the support and queries.

Ah yes earlier I was in a rush so I didn't quite explain what have to be done.

To open the whole throttle body assembly you will need:
1. 8mm 9 Inch T Hex (I custom made mine)
2. 5 Inch T Wrench with Socket (Custom Made again)
3. 10 and 12mm Socket
4. Pliers & Nose Pliers
5. Screwdrivers
6. Carb Cleaner and Lacquer Thinner for finishing.
7. Air Gun
8. VERY Strong 12mm Ratchet Wrench
9. Working Lamp
10. LOTS of patience and a box of cigarettes - where applicable hahahaha

How to open?:
- Air Box & Air Pipe assembly comes off first
- Intake Plenum Cover Second
- Right Side Vacuum hoses & metal fitting third
- Curved Internal Trumpets fourth
- Lower Intake Plenum fifth
- Left Side Vacuum hoses sixt
- Throttle linkages seventh
- Fuel lines eight
- THEN....

The most utterly difficult part is to remove EIGHT super tight 12mm bolts from the throttle body mount. This is where the custom T wrench and Super Strong Ratchet Wrench required - without them it is near impossible to open because four of the bolts are placed deep below the throttle bodies. You take care of this the whole throttle body assembly will come off easily.

Last,
Before u can take out the throttle body assembly, you will have to reach low on the block body to remove Intake Plenum stand which is on the left side. There u go. Proceed with cleaing like nobody business hahahahaha.

Of course, I use a Carb Cleaner together with High Pressure Air Gun from a Compressor to do the cleaning on EVERY nook and crannies of the Vacuum Passages. Spray the carb cleaner and then pressurized them in using air gun. Repeat until u can see that no dark liquid coming out from the other end.

Clean the whole head? bugger I plan to totally remove the head quite soon. Oh yes we all know about the notoriously noisy VVT pulley and 20V Shims - And honestly I love the DIESEL sound of it - any hardcore 4A-GE enthusiast should be loving it too hahahahaha - makes 20V very unique.

DIY head porting? oh yes that can be done too hahahaaha. use kikir and tooth brush to do it hahahahaha

RESULTS:
I can confirm today that my idling problems are TOTALLY GONE - NO more engine dying in the middle of hot sunny day jams, RPM remains stable at 800-850 ranges (I use digital RSM). And I swear that acceleration has improved dramatically too. FYI I reset my ECU after cleaning so that it will be forced to recalculate AFR MAP based on the improved vacuum travel and air intake.

Too much hassle to do this by yourself? gimme a call budies hahahahaha

Again TQ guys. Where got 30 minutes!, to open the whole assembly oso takes 1 hour, cleaning job 40 minutes and reassembly another 1 hour. So give and take around 3 to four hours laaa. Cuci throtlle body for 20V outside oso takes half day.

Anyway, I tot my throttles were dirty, then one of our fren called me and ask me to do cleaning on his Blacktop.......OH MY GOD!!!! (the photos will explain)

It was like almost 1mm of dirt hahahahaha....


Doesn't look too good here either.....



After some spraying, scrubbing and TWO cans of Carb Cleaner and a healthy support of Lacquer Thinner.....

Notice the brown dirt splattered all over the engine block wall and outside? well that's HALF of the contents sprayed out from the intake passages hahahaha



Oh the ISCV valve also gets the same treatment, no pics here but I think our fren can post it up for us.

Important Note:
The example shown above clearly state the importance of using Oil Catch Tank becoz I am absolutely sure that all the dirt and oily grime comes from Engine Oil vapour sucked into the PCV pipe and Cam Cover Breather port. Fuel varnish and carbon alone will not be as dirty looking as this.

Roger and Out!