Exhaust Temp vs. Air/Fuel ratio meter

Danny

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Air/Fuel ratio meter is pretty straightforward as my knowledge goes it shows how rich/lean your air/fuel ratio is.

How about Exhaust Temp? Also, why does exhaust temp meter normally costs 2x the price of air/fuel ratio meters?
 

Joeker

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This is a very good post by zth member, Sifu F8. :

"i would urge you guys to be a little bit more critical when you think. first off, i hope no one would take any of the opinions expressed here anymore than that, opinions, and not facts. so take what you read with a pinch of salt in zth.

before i go further, let me say that we're talking about petrol spark ignition engines. therefore, stoichiometry is about 14.7:1 air:fuel ratio by mass. by lean, i refer to air:fuel ratio > 14.7:1. by rich, i mean air:fuel ratio <14.7:1.

when you say the leaner you run, the more power you get until detonation occurs, this is simply untrue. for emission purposes, ie optimal operation of the catalytic converter, the air fuel ratio should be about 14.7:1. but for economical purposes, you can run it even leaner at about 15.4:1.

however, if it is ultimate power, for any given ignition advance timing, the figure is between 12.3:1 to 13.2:1, depending on the engine with turbo cars generally preferring the richer mixture as it aids in cylinder cooling(*more later). this is not to be confused with the ability to run more ignition advance, which is true as well. i'm just saying, even if you retained your ignition value at a point which wasn't knocking for a really lean and knock prone fueling, if you richen it up to about 12.5:1, you will get more torque.

however, people often run it even richer to aid even more in cylinder cooling so that the knock threshold is pushed further back. in the end, the resultant effect is a battle between the gain with the even higher ignition advance(higher ie closer to optimum value, but not past that) and the loss with running it more rich than is optimum from an air:fuel ratio point of view.

as for you getting more power with leaner mixtures, i think it has to do with the fact that you haven't advanced your ignition to the optimum yet for your current burn rate. and by running leaner, you increase your in cylinder temperature and speeding up the burn rate. the effect is similar to advancing your ignition except you don't get as much as you would have done if you had advanced it and richened your mixture. not to mention the thermal stress you place on your engine and its effect on durability. but before that, what did you use to measure your air fuel ratio? and what do you mean by lean and rich in terms of numbers? lets be a bit more specific and quantitative here.

finally, the leaner you run, the higher the exhaust gas temp is also incorrect. all else being equal, ie ignition advance stays fixed, exhaust gas temp is highest at stoichiometry of 14.7:1. if you start going leaner, the temperature actually starts going down. similarly, if you start going richer than stoich, the temp also goes down. so when you see that your egt is lower, you need to know which side of the lower you are in.

but more importantly, egt is a result of not just the air fuel ratio. it also depends on your ignition timing, compression ratio etc. the more retarded your ignition, the higher your egt even if your air fuel ratio was constant.

therefore, please don't use egt as the sole indication of your state of tune. definitely use a wide band lambda sensor for fueling, and a knock sensor wired to an amplifier and a pair of headphones to listen out for knocking. however, the most optimum is still tuning it on a dyno. so what if air fuel ratio and ignition was this and that if the torque output is now lower? the fuel and ignition settings that give the higest output is that. and i can assure you there won't be knocking at that point because the output would've come down if there was.

*-this is basically a more expensive means of water injection because fuel has lower heat of latency than water and thus absorb less heat, and is more expensive than water although it vaporises more easily.

so, it is true that stoich makes the highest EGT and power. and forget about ignition timing and other things...

no. stoich makes the highest egt but not the highest power. and no, you cannot forget about ignition timing and other things.

GT500 wrote:
1)Does carbon deposite that build in the cylinder (due to richer fuel) effect the EGT?As i know carbon deposite can raise the compression ratio(the surpace of the cylinder getting thicker)
2)To f8,can i say EGT is secondary in tuning process?I mean AFR is that important?

i'm not so sure the carbon deposits give an appreciable rise in egt due to the higher compression ratio. there may well be depending on how badly deposited your piston crowns are but i think the more apparent effect is pre-ignition as these carbon deposits act as hot spots.

Think of AFR and then EGT as secondary tuning aids. firstly, you tune it on the dyno. once its optimum in terms of power for any given rpm and load site, you observe the air fuel ratio and egt. next time if you need to retune and for some reasons can't do it on a dyno, then do it on the road with a wideband afr meter and egt gauge until the air fuel ratio corresponds to what it was on the dyno via fueling, and then whilst keeping the fueling constant, tweak your ignition until you get the same egt.

But seriously, yes, i would still think the egt will go down as you go from stoich to leaner. the reason is, at stoich the combustion is perfect so maximum heat is extracted. past stoich into lean, since you put in less fuel, there should be less heat until ultimately, the engine dies of fuel starvation
"
 

Danny

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Originally posted by cmng@Sep 6 2004, 09:23 AM
err check your fact
real AFR is much much expensive than EGT meter
AFR u can get it as low as RM280 from a reputable brand (apexi) while exhaust temp the cheapest branded one would cost RM800+
 

alvin24

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Thats because those afr taps into the engine's oxygen sensor (Which should be somewhere in your exhaust la).

Exhaust Temp. gauges usually comes with their own sensor... thus the price! Same goes for fuel press if i'm not mistaken.... usually these 2 more expensive than the rest (water temp, boost, etc).

REAL AFR costs more than 1k... comes with its own sensors, module, and u get to plug it into your laptop to get a graph reading and stuff. (think he was referring to this one).
 

khoyos

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Originally posted by Danny+Sep 6 2004, 08:20 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Danny @ Sep 6 2004, 08:20 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-cmng@Sep 6 2004, 09:23 AM
err check your fact
real AFR is much much expensive than EGT meter
AFR u can get it as low as RM280 from a reputable brand (apexi) while exhaust temp the cheapest branded one would cost RM800+ [/b][/quote]
those AFR meters are not wideband, so not accurate.
 

Danny

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those are called wideband tuners, they do not come in meter form. No doubt, they cost an arm and a leg. I think the last one I saw cost RM2k+ at N1.

What I was asking was air fuel ratio meter, u know, those small round things that looks like boost meter but it is used for checking your air/fuel ratio.
 

khoyos

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Originally posted by Danny@Sep 6 2004, 10:27 PM
those are called wideband tuners, they do not come in meter form. No doubt, they cost an arm and a leg. I think the last one I saw cost RM2k+ at N1.

What I was asking was air fuel ratio meter, u know, those small round things that looks like boost meter but it is used for checking your air/fuel ratio.
hehehe those autometer AFR. those doesnt have sensor that is plugged to the exhaust like the ext temp meter. on the other hand, they tap the signal from the ecu (if i'm not mistaken). it is not as accurate as wideband sensor, but it is better than nothing.

that's why it is cheaper. 1 sensor less.
 

Danny

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ohh, no wonder, thanks for your explanation. I got the Apexi one a/f with turbo timer today but I think there is something wrong with my 02 sensor, it does not go above 0.60v (o2 voltage) or below 14 (air/fuel ratio). Does that mean that the 02 sensor is nor working properly?
 

vteckiller

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Danny,

buy yourself a full air fuel ratio kit..the cheapest in the market would be the dyno jet RM2250 only..comes with bosch lsu4 sensor...5wire...good stuff then u will get true real reading all the time....best investment...can do datalogging too...

:)
 

yolk

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then can rent out to people for rm100 per hour .. then can cover back cost also B)
 

vteckiller

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Originally posted by yolk@Sep 13 2004, 03:16 PM
then can rent out to people for rm100 per hour .. then can cover back cost also B)
yup thats the way yogo..
rent out rm50 also can cover back la..
 

actuator_bypass

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Originally posted by Danny@Sep 6 2004, 23:56
ohh, no wonder, thanks for your explanation. I got the Apexi one a/f with turbo timer today but I think there is something wrong with my 02 sensor, it does not go above 0.60v (o2 voltage) or below 14 (air/fuel ratio). Does that mean that the 02 sensor is nor working properly?
that what we call narrow band..

narrowband work less thah 1 volt not like wideband sensor work on 12V..

That's why khoyos said it's not accurate.. it only read rich,stoich and lean..

But if you use wideband, it can give you detail information how much carbon inside the exaust gas..
 

Danny

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what are the readings for how much carbon inside the exhaust gas?

also, where's a safe place to do tuning by yourself in PJ/KL area? Unlike dyno machines I actually need to drive the car around.
 

actuator_bypass

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Originally posted by Danny@Sep 16 2004, 03:00
what are the readings for how much carbon inside the exhaust gas?

also, where's a safe place to do tuning by yourself in PJ/KL area? Unlike dyno machines I actually need to drive the car around.
The sensor detect heat, carbon..

Every explosivve will produce carbon.

sometimes when heating up the engine to good engine working temp. there a water came out from exaust.. this mean the engine still in cold condition where the oxigen mix with oxigen the it will be H20.

LSU 4 BOSCH 5 WIRE OXIGEN SENSOR, will reading accurately after 20sec your engine started to firing.. and good reading of Air/Fuel Ratio, when the engine started to heat up to engine working temperature.

Dyno tune give you accurate result, lambda, hp, torque, afr.. but sometimes the fan where they put to the nearest place at your radiator are not powerful enough to cool down the temperature.. That's mean the engine heat are not like normal like driving on the road..

Some tuner, read afr on the road test drive where the sensor stick at your exaust, and reading meter inside the car.. espeacilly for those using world famous brand of after market ECU..

For tuner "bawah pokok" they drive the car, checking at every RPM afr reading, and do some homework at home and produce a good chip including ignition firing, fuel mapping and load at every stage of RPM.. the result sometimes would be greater than aftermarket ECU tuner.

OK good luck..
 

flamefox850

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thanks to joeker..great explaination..even though not his hehe
thats what i'm debating for a long time ago with zth forumers

leaner than stoich egt drop, richer than stoich also egt drop
 

cipan_supercas

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Originally posted by actuator_bypass@Sep 17 2004, 01:02
Some tuner, read afr on the road test drive where the sensor stick at your exaust, and reading meter inside the car.. espeacilly for those using world famous brand of after market ECU..

For tuner "bawah pokok" they drive the car, checking at every RPM afr reading, and do some homework at home and produce a good chip including ignition firing, fuel mapping and load at every stage of RPM.. the result sometimes would be greater than aftermarket ECU tuner.

OK good luck..
thanx man B) , thats what we usually do...
 

Shanashi

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I've been folllowing so this is what I have come to know......by using a/f meter....I will be able to tell that during a morning start...by looking at the meter I'll be able to tell when the engine is ready for us to start driving by looking at how rich it is?.....pls correct me if I am wrong....cheers~! ;)
 

Danny

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no, it's not for that purpose. During morning starts you can't tell the a/f ratio as the sensor won't be able to function. It only starts to get the reading when the car is running and there is enough temp. for the sensor to run.

a/f meter is mostly used for turbo cars to get the correct a/f ratio during low and hi throttle.
 

shiroitenshi

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Just adding some info after reading this thread. (Yes, I noticed the thread date)

EGTs are helpful in observing AFR. For example on N/As, the EGTs is about 800-900ish. For turbos are higher. at 1000ish.

Usually for first time use, you need both the EGT and wideband AFR.

For wideband AFR owners, you know how sensitive the sensor is to moisture, since they die pretty quickly during rainy season.

The alternative to using AFR is monitoring the EGTs.. EGTs are rather constant in nature, so you will notice that after driving a while, you can actually see that the EGT also means that your car is running at proper AFR or not. If it stays at the normal level (normal is depending on the car you drive), then it's all well. If say injectors clogged, and some of the cylinders running lean, then you'd notice an increase/decrease in EGT temps due to lean condition. if leaned to the point of knock, then EGT increase, if lean just a bit, then the EGTs can actually decrease due to not generating a good burn during combustion. A good burn is not too cold, and not too hot, That's why there's the normal range of about 800-1000ish.

EGT sensors also practically last forever, so it's a good alternative than running a wideband 24/7 on your car.
 
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