ZTH KuChiNG zone

It has been awhile since I drop by.. Been drifting and dragging.... :biggrin:

For dyno queries; I inquired from pro dyno - around RM80 for normal dyno to check a/f ratio and hp.
Ah Yong aka Loh Motor Sports, I got a good deal of RM150 for tuning my AFC Neo and to check my hp last year.

Best power to money ratio would be Nissan or Toyota setups. I.e, SR20det stock boosting at 0.7bar is around 194hp. If you boost 1 bar, you'll hit 210hp - easily smoke B16 but maybe a bit of a challenge with B20B. S14 halfcut is around RM6k and for the total package of front half cut and rear half would be RM7500 - 8000. For engine, gear box and wiring only; some friends selling for RM3k - 5k.

Toyotas; 4agze halfcuts are quite hard to comeby, but I think Kingdom still has 1 or 2 trueno sellling for RM5500. NB last year still got 1 ae86 and 1 trueno. Another good buy would be at Ah Nong aka Matang sifu, he has one halfcut trueno complete with hks hi cams and valve springs I think selling for RM6000.

4agte setup can easily give you instant 200hp. And if you boost 1.5 bar, you'll be seeing 220-230hp depending on your injectors and control unit.

All setups can give good hp with tuning i.e Emanage, haltech, microtech...

To increase hp, just need to get a faster spooling turbo, injectors, walbro fuel pump and a good tuning. But all those power without traction would be of not much use. So at the end you need a good wide tyres and semi slick tyres. :biggrin:
 
Best power to money ratio would be Nissan or Toyota setups. I.e, SR20det stock boosting at 0.7bar is around 194hp. If you boost 1 bar, you'll hit 210hp - easily smoke B16 but maybe a bit of a challenge with B20B
:banghead: does it mean i have to upgrade:rofl:
 
For Vtecs... upgrade mean $$$$. For turbo setup as long as your af ratio is rich, you should be ok with boosting it a bit = more hp. Subject to the revving level of your motor. For nissan sr20det safe rev would be 7800. For 4age/ze/te without king bearings safely 7500. Not sure about 3sgte... I think it's similar to 4a.

Turbo setup can go for custom turbo by Proturbo. His turbo sells for RM1200 - 2500 depending on your setup. Can hit 2 bar with ease - as long as your fuel is rich enough to support it. :biggrin:

In conclusion, best money to power ratio would still be toyotas 4agte/3sgte and nissans sr20det..... [more turbos otr = more participants for the drag war hehehehe]
 
alphangadan: now i need to look for more $$$ if wana play wif a turbo machine.. ehehehe.. thanx for the good info bro..
shah: 'easily beat b16 bro....' oops.. its oke bro, 4g13 is always the smallest car.. ehehe.. can be beaten easily by vtec.. ehehheeee..
 
wait we have a meet up to see each other then....

there is another facts for boosting a turbo, not only fuel,ignition and internal is critical for boosting higher safely.... u can try putting tons of fuel with out correct ignition timing and stronger internals for a 4g15...even a b16a without a proper internal and ignition will kaboom easily.....yes, u might can say happily that now i can boost 2 bar with lot of fuel, but trust me, it wont last that long as series's weber 4g13...
 
peterj: bro, mine i just a normal car bro.. hehehe.. hopefully will last long..
jac: sure.. arrange a tt to meet up with fellows zth.. ehehe.. any suggestion from others?/ eheheheee..
 
Peterj: Yes agreed. As long as your internals are fit enough for that sort of boost... From my experience with 4agte, I boosted 1.5 bar with king bearings, and adjusted my af ratio.... simple tune with afc neo.... lasted me since 2005 - 2010 (sold to a friend from Btu)... He's safely boosting at 1.2 bar as he's not really the racing type.

Not sure about mitsubishi, but from my experience with toyotas 4agte, stock internals, safe to boost 1.2 bar as long as you don't rev more than 7500 rpm and you have a fuel regulator set at 2.8-3 bar at idling plus a bosch mercedes fuel pump or walbro.

SR20DET is the best setup so far. Stock can boost 1 bar with a fuel regulator and a walbro fuel pump to be on the safe side.... Can give a pretty tough challenge for B20B. But a bit easier to tapao b16.... also another point to note.. all those power without traction is no use. So a good pair of yokohama or toyo semi slicks would really give good grip. And for those rear set ups most important part would be rear axle bushings... (the drifting type by super pro) would work wonders...
 
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Peterj: Yes agreed. As long as your internals are fit enough for that sort of boost... From my experience with 4agte, I boosted 1.5 bar with king bearings, and adjusted my af ratio.... simple tune with afc neo.... lasted me since 2005 - 2010 (sold to a friend from Btu)... He's safely boosting at 1.2 bar as he's not really the racing type.

Not sure about mitsubishi, but from my experience with toyotas 4agte, stock internals, safe to boost 1.2 bar as long as you don't rev more than 7500 rpm and you have a fuel regulator set at 2.8-3 bar at idling plus a bosch mercedes fuel pump or walbro.

SR20DET is the best setup so far. Stock can boost 1 bar with a fuel regulator and a walbro fuel pump to be on the safe side.... Can give a pretty tough challenge for B20B. But a bit easier to tapao b16.... also another point to note.. all those power without traction is no use. So a good pair of yokohama or toyo semi slicks would really give good grip. And for those rear set ups most important part would be rear axle bushings... (the drifting type by super pro) would work wonders...

i assume ur 4agte mean 4a-ZE with turbo setup? if it is a 4A-ZE, sure it is safe for stock to boost that level since the piston is already semi forged with ceramic coating.... if it is 4A-GE N/A, i highly doubt that it can boost more then 1 bar
 
Yep. Bought a 4agze engine plus t50 gear box for RM3k back in 2004. Didn't know much back than so boosted 1.5 bar with a t28 plus a narrow band O2 to check for a/f plus a hks fpr. Turbo was good up to 3 months than the seals gave way.... Started seriously upgrading it in 2006 than sold it off late 2010 for a sr20det. I figured the amount of money invested to achieve 400hp is a bit on the downside if I go all the way with a 4agte setup. The option at that time was to go for either a 3sgte or a sr20det. I chose the latter...as it comes with gearbox....
 
Alpha- Just wondering what kind of chassis are you using. I guess it is a KE70. It is the most common platform for RWD setups, i suppose.
There is a 4age set but no rear axle available for sale on Mdah for RM3,500. Is that a decent deal compared to buying a halfcut set from Kingdom, etc? Your opinion needed. Thanks.
 
Yep Ke70 chassis. If you can find the te71 or ae70 series would be a very good platform. It has the looks of a hachiroku..

Does the 4age comes with gearbox:t50? Or a custom bell housing 1g? Ecu? For your info Kingdom is expensive. Try NB or J One. 4age if it's engine and gear box t50 RM3500 is reasonable. But if gearbox is a less powerful type, should get it for RM2500 - 3000 only. If your setup is just for drifting, can get your ke70 axles welded... But for long term, try to get the ae85/86 axle. I sold mine last 2010 as it could only hold 200hp. I'm using the lancer type but the gears are a bit too fine. Need the scarce AE86 type.
 
to all otai, help needed... my car is eg9 b16a manual. The other day ( last october 2011) i posted that my 2 to 3 and 4 to 5 gear crunches only when in high rpm , then i change to secondhand ek9 clutch with preasure plate and new bearing..no more crunches..After 5 months thats means now, the crunches come back again..2 to 3 and 4 to 5 in high rpm only...i had change to fresh gear oil but it still occurs..Is that means my secondhand clutch want to worn out or other things happen to make all those crunches in high rpm... any advice needed badly....
 
to all otai, help needed... my car is eg9 b16a manual. The other day ( last october 2011) i posted that my 2 to 3 and 4 to 5 gear crunches only when in high rpm , then i change to secondhand ek9 clutch with preasure plate and new bearing..no more crunches..After 5 months thats means now, the crunches come back again..2 to 3 and 4 to 5 in high rpm only...i had change to fresh gear oil but it still occurs..Is that means my secondhand clutch want to worn out or other things happen to make all those crunches in high rpm... any advice needed badly....

urs is ori eg9 gearbox or had been changed before? if it is a b16a small vtec gearbox, it is normal to have that kind of problem since their design's problem, but if it is big V from eg9 on wards, pls go check ur syncro and clutch, this 2 things made this happen...
 
racedemon22 : u try adjust ur clutch higher a bit...if still got crunches sound try check ur pressure plate...
 
shah5775, i have adjust to the highest as possible oledi... do u think the preasure plate is faulthy?? when i change to ek9 second hand clutch it comes with the preassure plate and new bearing..is my secondhand preassure plate faulthy after just 5 months??? huhuhuhu
 
wait 1st bro, ur gear shift sound like got gear grinding sound like "grok"in high rpm is it? if it is like that , i am very sure it is gear synchro's problem.... if pressure plate got problem, it wont even hold ur clutch since u r rev from low rpm till high rpm, i can only think of 2 situation for clutch pressure plate problems..

1.) if the clutch pressure plate's pin and bolts is not properly "hold" on ur flywheel, like my experience with my frens toyota gl, it tend to vibrate and jerking because the pressure plate not properly hold the clutch and cause uneven load and pressure distribution that causes vibration only...

2.) this problem more related to ur situation, when ur clutch plate or pressure plate are out of order (lining finished or pressure plate rosak no more pressure), clutch tend to loose, we all know if clutch loose we cant engage gear rite?

so i think there is possibility that the clutch set out of order also, new bearing does not help a second hand clutch to be new bro, for wear and tear parts, better use something u know it is really new or at least got guaranty... since we all don't wan pay double workmanship and buy new stuff again in short time rite? like now if after check it is really the clutch problem, u gonna pay for new set of clutch again and also workmanship.... i think the seller also no guaranty u the clutch for more then 3 months rite? coz from my experience buying so called recond parts sometimes depend on ur luck also...

i just hope my initial prediction (the gear's synchro) wont be the problem, if it is, from what ur statement told us, 2nd gear synchro is out and also 4th gear's synchro, the workmanship and $$ for the synchro gears can almost get u a new exedy 4 puck racing clutch dy..:biggrin:
 
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its too mechanical to explain:rofl:
when press clutch, gear crash got lot of possibilities...then ur using used parts mixed with new bearings...can't say ur clutch kit used only for 5 months coz u shud know its used, and we don't know how long dy its been used by previous owner....try send ur car to ur pomen to check 1st bro...

peterj : i'm not sure but is it possible if synchronize probs the gearbox will make sound e.g humming sound?happen to my frens wira his gearbox got humming sound and send for overhaul change all synchro's now solved no more sound...
 
thanks for all the reply guys... will sent it to be check then... my bad for buying recond stuff huhuhu can u guys recommed me a good shop to overhaul gearbox if needed???
 

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