What Standalone ECU is better?

[glanza]

so u r using freedom? any different from emanage?
actually i want to put standalone because i want to save my standard 6speed ecu.. if anything short circuit or whatsoever, i still have a standard backup ecu.. thats the main purpose actually..

r u agreed with me by 1.5k to spend on emanage and other 1.5k spend on my engine?
or just go for standalone?(which means expensive for nothing?) hehe.. thanks..

i agreed! hehe

 

[frecoz]

haihzz.. what im gonna do with 1.5 for my engine?? urghhh.. in my mind, i just can change to trd clutch for that money.. LOLZ.. still doesnt increase my hp lor.. kuikuikui..

oversize piston (.5mm) = $1200(i have to bore the block too? or just put in on just like that?)
toda cam+spring+pulley = $5800
acl racing bearing = $600
ANYONE WANT TO SELL CHEAP2?? USED ONE?? =P

 

[lkeong88]

Can change lightened flywheel make you easier to rev

 

[j_l200s]

1.5k for engine? i think oversized 81.25/81.50mm piston+rings is rm680 only la... and yes, u have to re-bore your block. conrod and main bearings i dunno the price. try use trd 0.8mm metal head gasket too, i think around 300+ per piece. u can get these stuffs above from wira_tak_laju. previously i bought from him. the balance of the 1.5k u can pay for labour and block re-bore charges :D

if so headache, just go pnp your head.

refer to this post. http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/engine-and-performance/179443-brand-new-ori-toyota-supercharger-piston-art.html

 

[km_chew]

wah, 20v fit in 16v low compression piston? Didn't know this can work ..

frecoz,
There is many ways to go around without touching the ECU unit. 140whp can be done with stock engine (internals untouch) and stock ECU (without piggyback) .. Tweaks and treats only .. Have you dyno your car ?

 

[j_l200s]

km_chew, wah!! 20v fit in 16v low comp can work............................ if u wanna turbo charged it.

try scrolling down a bit more of that thread and u'll see more info of what i'm trying to say.

 

[pcmoddingmy]

There is many ways to go around without touching the ECU unit. 140whp can be done with stock engine (internals untouch) and stock ECU (without piggyback) ..

Boss.... this I want to hear. Time to reveal your secrets!

 

[glanza]

yaa i want to know too!!

 

[km_chew]

Am i right to say, stock BT's whp is 128 - 135 ?

hehe ..

 

[glanza]

yes but how to get 5hp more? 5hp is so valuable for NA..help us la chew huhu

 

[lkeong88]

Use better lubricants? I got 138whp on stock blacktop stock extractor all stock with chemlube last time?

 

[glanza]

i think u are lucky coz got healthy engine..

 

[frecoz]

woohooo~ how can i up my hp by not modifeid or change piggyback,sifu? teach me la..

yayaya... agreed with glanza, 5hp enough to go infront other blacktop owner.. kekeke

 

[oksmike]

sorry to interrupt ur thread bro frecoz
just wanna ask sum sifu here which is the best place to tune(buy) e-manage(blue) + dyno
at a reasonable price.

hv a nice day

 

[glanza]

sorry to interrupt ur thread bro frecoz
just wanna ask sum sifu here which is the best place to tune(buy) e-manage(blue) + dyno
at a reasonable price.

hv a nice day

where do u prefer bro? in kl of course a lot.

 

[frecoz]

why other standalone@piggyback not have display like safc? is there any other we can used to display if we install emanage or is it sold seperately?

 

[glanza]

i think emanage has a display that sold separately called E-01..anyone can confirm it?

 

[j_l200s]

i think microtech got... but have to buy it separately.

no need display wan la. u wan ur car kena pecah is it? XD

 

[glanza]

maybe he want to tune himself kot..

 

[km_chew]

I thought Profec E01 is a boost controller? Standalone can have display, plug in your notebook and place your notebook on dashboard. Can already lo .. You got numbers everywhere .. lolx

Before going further, always ask yourself. How much horse you want to satisfy you? Can your budget cope with it? NA is almost rm1000 for one wheel horse power. Some internal engine stuff co-related with each other, by just changing one part doesn't help much (eg, changing a high profile cam >264 without unleashing the rev limit)

Here is my story,
I'm one hell of lucky bastard. Bought the car, equip with SVT and dyno-ed 135whp (stock internals and ECU). Why it is 135whp? Extractor (4-1 Cusco) and Exhaust for my case. The final climb of the graph is at >7500rpm where it jump from 125 to final 135. Is it helpful for the final 500rpm, an increase of 10whp? You hardly feel it if you got a numb ass. The car's character is just a normal SVT that has a power of 125whp up to 7500rpm. Can't even outdrag a stock healthy BT (tried). My point is, the car dyno-ed peak 135whp at 8000rpm but the mid to high range rpm is a 1.6, 20valve SVT's strength. Here on, still determine to get more power and value for my pocket.

What i did?
Converted to map (open with trumpet), C160 Gbox, and a FPR. Dyno-ed again, same old 135whp. Stack the graph over the old dyno, same peak but mid to high increase a steady 10 - 15whp. Car character changes again. Shorter gear ratio, higher torque (13.xx vs 16.16kg). It definitely feels more power and the fact tells me too.

Mid of enjoying this SVT,
Preparing for track day, bought a bottle of Shell HX7 for an oil change. During track day, engine overheated with an oil temp >150' due to fake Shell HX7 that i got from 'petrol station'. Repair it with best of BT with SVT's parts this time. (hybrid colour 20v) . Car is out, running and dyno-ed. Peak increase to 141whp with a higher mid to high (about 3whp) comparing to the 2nd graph.

What this car has under the hood?
A mixture of the very best colours 20v into one. Usual extractor and exhaust combo. Trumpet with FPR. A thin slice of metal head gasket. My AFR for now without any piggyback / standalone is bad for plugs. Idling, a whoop ass 12 - 12.5. Full throttle till peak, 10.8 - 11.5. Some of you know what is my next upgrade already by now.

Can't imagine what it is going to be if the AFR in a proper zone. Can't wait for it too.
Lolx ...