Rim weight

[joshua7paul]

havent got any... hahaha...
still searching for te37 or ssr type c with a good price, somemore i am looking for rims with staggered size, so it is a bit hard.
and i am still dilemma in choosing between 17 or 16 inch

so far te37 and ssr type c all 3k++..the cheapest ssr type c is 3300..but no tyre..so need another 1k++ for a set of tyres..diu! =p

 

[GT_AUTO]

ce 28n is light too.

 

[yn_hell]

exactly, these are popular rims, for sure they will "goreng" the price,
dun think the price will drop anytime soon...
that is why i'm still window shopping.
wat to do, gotta pay the price for the good things lor

 

[joshua7paul]

exactly, these are popular rims, for sure they will "goreng" the price,
dun think the price will drop anytime soon...
that is why i'm still window shopping.
wat to do, gotta pay the price for the good things lor

true2... ce28,te37,ssr type c..all the lightweight ones..seller goreng2 the price..haiz..

 

[apeq89]

how bout 15" rpf1? does the gold color match with white body?
does it is a forged rim too?

 

[joshua7paul]

how bout 15" rpf1? does the gold color match with white body?
does it is a forged rim too?

white n gold..ok wad...kinda cun...enkei rpf1 is cast iron bro..

 

[GT_AUTO]

white n gold..ok wad...kinda cun...enkei rpf1 is cast iron bro..

should be damn heavy...hahahahaha...lol...not cast iron lar bro.rpf1 is cast alloy
using MAT process to make it lighter than other cast wheel.

 

[apeq89]

ouh..
but, does it easier to bend?
afraid it easy to bend..not like forged rim..

 

[GT_AUTO]

ouh..
but, does it easier to bend?
afraid it easy to bend..not like forged rim..

alloy wheel is not that easily dent lar bro unless u hit it hard.

 

[angrysnail]

yeah,still rmmbr wira SE last time use 45,now 50 for profile..use low profile tyre also make ur rim dent easily not just a rim u should think of..

 

[vistzorpx]

thats the thing..im not really going for the looks if just want the looks, i wudnt have asked all these questions =p..hehe..btw,the weight written on the rim, is that the weight of the rim or is that the physical weight a rim can withstand?



the SSr type-c is 3.6kg for 15"x6 rim.. btw,how light is lightweight to you?..anyway,my car is stiffen my ultra racing bar top/bottom front/rear and im using brand new GAB..so yea..not feeling safe is because of the grip i guess

I think sometimes stiffen the car too much on absorbers, and roll bars will make the car feel more unsafe, the roll bars are use to prevent the body from deforming while cornering. stiff absorbers do give a more stable ride as it prevent the car from rolling so much, stiffening meaning lesser vibration absorption. when u drive on a rough road then u will feel the vibration directly from the steering and this may gives us a feeling of unsafe.

Correct me if im wrong.

 

[frank118]

My bad experience was that I changed my shocks and tuned it to original rims and then changed to light alloys, the ride suffered. It was like riding on a bronco horse..

So, i guess, if there is a drastic change in rim wieght and size, get them rims first.

 

[joshua7paul]

I think sometimes stiffen the car too much on absorbers, and roll bars will make the car feel more unsafe, the roll bars are use to prevent the body from deforming while cornering. stiff absorbers do give a more stable ride as it prevent the car from rolling so much, stiffening meaning lesser vibration absorption. when u drive on a rough road then u will feel the vibration directly from the steering and this may gives us a feeling of unsafe.

Correct me if im wrong.

to a certain extend ur right bro..but take for example proton..proton as weak chassis..not as tough as japanese rides..so when we use to stiff absorbers the dampening pressure n tension is actually quite hard on the body, there are certain cases where the body 'koyak'...hence use bars like ultra racing to tighten them..btw..my rides is ok..it suits my kinda of driving..cos i like to speed n layan corner..but yes i admit..comfort wise..i dun have it..got la abit..if wan comfort dont go full adjustable.. =)

My bad experience was that I changed my shocks and tuned it to original rims and then changed to light alloys, the ride suffered. It was like riding on a bronco horse..

So, i guess, if there is a drastic change in rim wieght and size, get them rims first.

yes yes..diff rims..diff height..car performs diff =)..btw..what shocks are u using?..

 

[FVel]

rim that are too light..isnt that not safe for our malaysian road?..hehe

Go for the lightest rims you can afford. They benefit your car's handling because a lighter rim reduces the unsprung mass on your car.

Forged rims are lighter than cast but also stonger by virtue of being forged. Cast rims are heavier but also weaker and softer. When cast wheels fail, they tend to bend and distort, whereas when forge wheel fails, they tend to shatter. You shouldn't be put off by that though. All in all, a forge wheel is far superior and a better choice than cast wheels if you can afford them.

What that other poster said about a forged rim like Te-37s standing up to pot-holes has an element of truth in it since they are so much stronger than cast wheels. Of course you don't purposely aim your car to potholes, since that will mess-up your suspension if you do it on a regular basis. It's just that if you happen to run a pothole hard, the likelihood that a cast rim will be bent is high.

A lot of SSR rims (I'm not sure of their latest premium range) are made using their propreitory process which falls somewhere in between cast and forge. They call it 'semi-forged' or something like that. Slightly heavier, cheaper but still very desrirable high quality rims. Over the years, SSR has significantly closed the gap to the forged rims with their semi-forged rims, so the differences are nominal and very much less than what they were earlier but still competitive in terms of pricing. You won't go wrong choosing SSR or the more traditional forged wheels such as Ray's Te-37.

Just shop around. There are still very nice 2nd hand forged wheels to be had if you are patient.

 

[ken yeang]

Guys,

Check the URL below. They have almost all good rims brands and their weight. This was discussed on ZTH previously.

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...8387-list-weight-of-branded-alloy-wheels.html

http://www.wheelweights.net/

 

[hornydrifter]

Go for regamaster!!!....its cun..light weight and supa sexy!

 

[joshua7paul]

to me 3+kg is as light as it gets...

at that price it always be worth it...and resale value also doesnt drop far off the pruchase price.unless you damage it

just checked

SSR type C 16" 114.3 - 4k..with kumho tyres
TE37 16" 114.3 - 3.8k with re001

 

[joshua7paul]

Guys how to know if Enkei RPF-1 is original japan?.. the word enkei is supposed to be painted or sticker?..

 

[AD_EG]

i too am in love with the RPF1 Gold rim...i think its a sticker bro...i saw a couple ori from japan with sticker not engraved or painted...

SSR type c also chun..Advan RG also nice..

I feel TE37 price is quite ok...compared to other rims...somemore..the bronze version is seriously nice...Like Ragamaster 15" crazy wei the price...Advan Rg also...haizzz...

 

[joshua7paul]

i too am in love with the RPF1 Gold rim...i think its a sticker bro...i saw a couple ori from japan with sticker not engraved or painted...

SSR type c also chun..Advan RG also nice..

I feel TE37 price is quite ok...compared to other rims...somemore..the bronze version is seriously nice...Like Ragamaster 15" crazy wei the price...Advan Rg also...haizzz...

thnx bro..confirmed mine is ori ed =)..its really light.according to the shop...the lightest is SSR type-c then TE37 then RPF-1...but i love my rpf-1 man!..it looks small..cos the lips are thick..hehe..planning to get it done into gunmetal ..hehe