Red Paint Issue

FoarGeez

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Greetings all detailers,

I've been thinking of painting my mum's 8 year old Vios. She loves red. Not Ferrari red but something close to apple red like the 2008 Lancer. I believe most of us know that Red is the hardest color to maintain because of the color pigments. It oxidize faster than any other color. I'm no detailing expert at all but ive seen so many faded red cars on the road. Plus she often park the car under direct sun light (no choice small house). How can we take care of the paint. Claybar? Polish? Wax?

Any advice from detailing enthusiast is very much appreciated on how to take good care of the Red paint. Thanks.
 

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Nothing beats a good paintjob to begin with. Glasurit all the waaaaaaaaaay! :biggrin:

Then it's just a matter of weekly washing, monthly waxing and sealant and the occassional claying, washing and more waxing and sealant!
 
Greetings all detailers,

I've been thinking of painting my mum's 8 year old Vios. She loves red. Not Ferrari red but something close to apple red like the 2008 Lancer. I believe most of us know that Red is the hardest color to maintain because of the color pigments. It oxidize faster than any other color. I'm no detailing expert at all but ive seen so many faded red cars on the road. Plus she often park the car under direct sun light (no choice small house). How can we take care of the paint. Claybar? Polish? Wax?

Any advice from detailing enthusiast is very much appreciated on how to take good care of the Red paint. Thanks.

Hi there, there are two types of paint, solid or 2k/clearcoated. The ones that oxidize faster are the solid paintwork, which is still a paint option available from showrooms today.

e.g. Myvi's solid white and solid red. When you polish the red paint, you can actually see your applicator turn red as you are removing some paint. This is perfectly normal, they are very shiny but as you said, can oxidize and fade. Glossy red can turn into faded pink.

After it has faded, it can still be polished and restored and fading only happens when the paint is less cared for. Monthly waxing should be good enough to prevent it from fading.

You can just ask the painter to use a 2k/clear coat system where it does not fade as easily. If I'm not mistaken, those apple red cars you mentioned are not solid paints, but it does not mean it wouldn't fade as well, just much slower.

my 2 cents...
 
Izso: glassurit simply way beyond my league :P

fishbonezken, appreciate yr comments bro. definitely goin with the 2K paints. For waxing is it necessary to clay or polish 1st? else it'll just like putting a protective coat on top all the contaminant such as water mark/swirls/bird poo etc ryte?

Could u guide the steps of maintaining the paint in a monthly basis? instead of like those heavy duty detailing job where it involves so many compunds n rotary tool.

Ive not much knowledge on detailing products. Ive just been using Soft 99 Meta Clean to deal with pretty much anything :biggrin:
 
Izso: glassurit simply way beyond my league :P

fishbonezken, appreciate yr comments bro. definitely goin with the 2K paints. For waxing is it necessary to clay or polish 1st? else it'll just like putting a protective coat on top all the contaminant such as water mark/swirls/bird poo etc ryte?

Could u guide the steps of maintaining the paint in a monthly basis? instead of like those heavy duty detailing job where it involves so many compunds n rotary tool.

Ive not much knowledge on detailing products. Ive just been using Soft 99 Meta Clean to deal with pretty much anything :biggrin:

After repainting, the painter will use a heavy compound to flatten the paintwork, but this is done while the paint is soft and fresh. After it has fully cured and pass 3 months, the paint will shrink and you can slowly see the orange peel effect getting stronger, even obvious after a year. So at one point, you still need compounds and rotary, or course this can be done by others and not yourself.

After the first major paint correction, then you can maintain yourself. Use a spray wax (such as what kc/muyo is selling, Optimum Car Wax) after each wash. Not neccessary to clay/polish before wax, but it is definitely ideal. Imagine waxing the car but still have stains because didn't polish, or feels rough to touch because didn't clay. You don't have to do it always, maybe the 2nd or 3rd time you wax, polish and clay once. :)
 
wow thx for tips.. pretty much give me a clearer picture now. btw somehow i came across yr blog (i believe its yrs) wetshinedetailing n pretty much spend half day at office browsing it through.. awesome work.
 
U spend half day reading his blog, later on u will also spend half or even one day wash and wax your car. :biggrin:
When you start, u can't stop.
U will know later. Cuz me too.
 
I think im getting there in the same boat at u buddy.. again i need some help with fellow detailers here.

Went to Hypercoat at USJ1 yesterday n ask for the M105/205 compound but the problem they only sell per gallon which cost almost rm500. Im not setting up business here just to try out on my own car (newbie here). As this compound is mostly used at professional car care center i dont think can find at Eneos or any any average joe hardware shop.

Anybody care to share where can get these compound prolly sumthing like 500ml in Klang Valley area.
 
wow thx for tips.. pretty much give me a clearer picture now. btw somehow i came across yr blog (i believe its yrs) wetshinedetailing n pretty much spend half day at office browsing it through.. awesome work.

You're welcome, glad I could help. Btw that wetshinedetailing is my old blog, if you go to the home page of that blog, you'll see the domain of my new site, and have PM-ed you regarding the M105/M205 issue. :)

U spend half day reading his blog, later on u will also spend half or even one day wash and wax your car. :biggrin:
When you start, u can't stop.
U will know later. Cuz me too.

Hahahaha! Yes it can be very addictive!
 


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