Problem with my rear brake / handbrake

senndoh

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2013
Messages
5
Points
501
Location
Kuala Lumpur
Hi all,

I have this problem with my handbrake where I can feel like the brake force are not equal when I pull up the handbrake. How do I come to this deduction is by testing my handbrake, pull handbrake and try to moving forward or backwards (or pull handbrake while the car is still crawling). I can feel my car like sinking to the rear right. I suspect my rear left is not working or partial working now.

Actually this is my second recurrence..the first one (left not working at all) I solved it by change the brake cable for the left brake but it seems the problem has arise again. sigh

But I don't feel any problem during driving, my car doesn't sway or something like that under heavy braking.

Anyone have experience with this or anyone care to share your opinion on how to solve this permanently? :idea: Anyway, the car is gen 2 with disc brake on the rear.

Thanks:adore:
 
Hi all,

I have this problem with my handbrake where I can feel like the brake force are not equal when I pull up the handbrake. How do I come to this deduction is by testing my handbrake, pull handbrake and try to moving forward or backwards (or pull handbrake while the car is still crawling). I can feel my car like sinking to the rear right. I suspect my rear left is not working or partial working now.

Actually this is my second recurrence..the first one (left not working at all) I solved it by change the brake cable for the left brake but it seems the problem has arise again. sigh

But I don't feel any problem during driving, my car doesn't sway or something like that under heavy braking.

Anyone have experience with this or anyone care to share your opinion on how to solve this permanently? :idea: Anyway, the car is gen 2 with disc brake on the rear.

Thanks:adore:


check handbrake cable condition...maybe already jammed....

and check if the rear handbrake adjustment have equal clearance both side..
 
check handbrake cable condition...maybe already jammed....

and check if the rear handbrake adjustment have equal clearance both side..

Bro. Pomen, For disc brakes I think is self adjusting for the handbrakes. Mine is anyway, not too sure about Gen 2 one.

---------- Post added at 10:25 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:23 AM ----------

Hi all,

I have this problem with my handbrake where I can feel like the brake force are not equal when I pull up the handbrake. How do I come to this deduction is by testing my handbrake, pull handbrake and try to moving forward or backwards (or pull handbrake while the car is still crawling). I can feel my car like sinking to the rear right. I suspect my rear left is not working or partial working now.

Actually this is my second recurrence..the first one (left not working at all) I solved it by change the brake cable for the left brake but it seems the problem has arise again. sigh

But I don't feel any problem during driving, my car doesn't sway or something like that under heavy braking.

Anyone have experience with this or anyone care to share your opinion on how to solve this permanently? :idea: Anyway, the car is gen 2 with disc brake on the rear.

Thanks:adore:
Braking while driving is activated by the hydraulic side, handbrake by cable, so better check cable moving/working or not? or something stuck at the calipers?
 
check handbrake cable condition...maybe already jammed....

and check if the rear handbrake adjustment have equal clearance both side..

my last handbrake service was like 6 months ago..i changed the rear left brake cable..em i think would be no issue with the cable..i mean takkan rosak lagi..lol..

Bro. Pomen, For disc brakes I think is self adjusting for the handbrakes. Mine is anyway, not too sure about Gen 2 one.

---------- Post added at 10:25 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:23 AM ----------


Braking while driving is activated by the hydraulic side, handbrake by cable, so better check cable moving/working or not? or something stuck at the calipers?

for proton gen 2 is self adjusting..i can see at the center console, when i pull the handbrake, it will independently pull each left and right brake

last time i went to a workshop (not the workshop i changed the cable), he suggest me to straight change the caliper set..mang its too expensive :banghead:

SInce before I DIY changed my brake pads.
Not sure why. Proton SC took too long last time, I left wasting 4 hours there.
Buggers SC.

ic..so after change brakepad everything settle ad?..great for you :)
 
my last handbrake service was like 6 months ago..i changed the rear left brake cable..em i think would be no issue with the cable..i mean takkan rosak lagi..lol..



for proton gen 2 is self adjusting..i can see at the center console, when i pull the handbrake, it will independently pull each left and right brake

last time i went to a workshop (not the workshop i changed the cable), he suggest me to straight change the caliper set..mang its too expensive :banghead:



ic..so after change brakepad everything settle ad?..great for you :)

Nope, till now brah. Trestor Blue ftw! As recommended by VR2 haahaha
 
Bro. Pomen, For disc brakes I think is self adjusting for the handbrakes. Mine is anyway, not too sure about Gen 2 one.

---------- Post added at 10:25 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:23 AM ----------


Braking while driving is activated by the hydraulic side, handbrake by cable, so better check cable moving/working or not? or something stuck at the calipers?

my last handbrake service was like 6 months ago..i changed the rear left brake cable..em i think would be no issue with the cable..i mean takkan rosak lagi..lol..



for proton gen 2 is self adjusting..i can see at the center console, when i pull the handbrake, it will independently pull each left and right brake

last time i went to a workshop (not the workshop i changed the cable), he suggest me to straight change the caliper set..mang its too expensive :banghead:



ic..so after change brakepad everything settle ad?..great for you :)


not sure if really self adjusting or need to fine tuning/adjust like this

tacra's diy garage: Info & Tips Vol. 5
 
I had this issue. But mine had a lot of failure points.

1. I serviced both rear calipers. Found one side (the weaker side) was not so smooth. Had dust inside and the dust cover was torn. Replaced everything and sanded off the rusty bits. Repainted calipers

2. The Handbrake cables one side was jammed. Changed both. At least both cables are the same age now.

3. At the handbrake itself, one of the cables wasn't put into the bracket there and was left hanging loose there. So whenever the handbrake was yanked it pulled one side more than the other. After adjusting the position it made things better.

4. The grommet holding the cables in the rear seat there wasn't placed properly allowing a lot of free play. This is a two-man job and I had it realigned and fitted properly.

5. Adjusted the height of the handbrake (not really related).

6. Bled the rear discs to check to see if the oil was flowing normally on both sides. Btw, I was on steel braided hoses cuz the old rubber ones were expanding like mad losing a lot of rear grip.

7. Since everything was out I changed the pads. Avoid Bendix Metal King at all costs. Doesn't bite when cold. Kinda makes handbrake pointless.

If after all that still cannot - you have a problematic caliper and needs replacing.
 
for proton gen 2 is self adjusting..i can see at the center console, when i pull the handbrake, it will independently pull each left and right brake

last time i went to a workshop (not the workshop i changed the cable), he suggest me to straight change the caliper set..mang its too expensive :banghead:

Adjustment from center console is to tighten and lower the handbrakes only. The self adjustment from the console is to even out the the handbrake pull so that both sides gets even pressure.

Read my reply to brother pomen....

---------- Post added at 02:17 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:14 PM ----------

not sure if really self adjusting or need to fine tuning/adjust like this

tacra's diy garage: Info & Tips Vol. 5

Yup, means same system as mine. If need to adjust the brake piston then the auto adjustment is not working. I had this problem with my brake last time. As it cannot self adjust the handbrake, as the pads wear, became higher and higher. After change the calipers, now okay.....:driver:

---------- Post added at 02:19 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:17 PM ----------

I had this issue. But mine had a lot of failure points.

1. I serviced both rear calipers. Found one side (the weaker side) was not so smooth. Had dust inside and the dust cover was torn. Replaced everything and sanded off the rusty bits. Repainted calipers

2. The Handbrake cables one side was jammed. Changed both. At least both cables are the same age now.

3. At the handbrake itself, one of the cables wasn't put into the bracket there and was left hanging loose there. So whenever the handbrake was yanked it pulled one side more than the other. After adjusting the position it made things better.

4. The grommet holding the cables in the rear seat there wasn't placed properly allowing a lot of free play. This is a two-man job and I had it realigned and fitted properly.

5. Adjusted the height of the handbrake (not really related).

6. Bled the rear discs to check to see if the oil was flowing normally on both sides. Btw, I was on steel braided hoses cuz the old rubber ones were expanding like mad losing a lot of rear grip.

7. Since everything was out I changed the pads. Avoid Bendix Metal King at all costs. Doesn't bite when cold. Kinda makes handbrake pointless.

If after all that still cannot - you have a problematic caliper and needs replacing.
I had to change mine.....:smokin:
 
I had this issue. But mine had a lot of failure points.

1. I serviced both rear calipers. Found one side (the weaker side) was not so smooth. Had dust inside and the dust cover was torn. Replaced everything and sanded off the rusty bits. Repainted calipers

2. The Handbrake cables one side was jammed. Changed both. At least both cables are the same age now.

3. At the handbrake itself, one of the cables wasn't put into the bracket there and was left hanging loose there. So whenever the handbrake was yanked it pulled one side more than the other. After adjusting the position it made things better.

4. The grommet holding the cables in the rear seat there wasn't placed properly allowing a lot of free play. This is a two-man job and I had it realigned and fitted properly.

5. Adjusted the height of the handbrake (not really related).

6. Bled the rear discs to check to see if the oil was flowing normally on both sides. Btw, I was on steel braided hoses cuz the old rubber ones were expanding like mad losing a lot of rear grip.

7. Since everything was out I changed the pads. Avoid Bendix Metal King at all costs. Doesn't bite when cold. Kinda makes handbrake pointless.

If after all that still cannot - you have a problematic caliper and needs replacing.

Sigh, as if I have nothing to worry about. Everything popped up.
 
7. Since everything was out I changed the pads. Avoid Bendix Metal King at all costs. Doesn't bite when cold. Kinda makes handbrake pointless.

If after all that still cannot - you have a problematic caliper and needs replacing.

i'm using bendix general CT (city driving type) it was awesome at rear...it really bites and i can do handbrake turn easily :driver:



Adjustment from center console is to tighten and lower the handbrakes only. The self adjustment from the console is to even out the the handbrake pull so that both sides gets even pressure.

Read my reply to brother pomen....


i think it wasnt really self-adjusting because on the pad itself got one "pole"/stump to stop the piston from rotating/adjusting


the piston no.6 in diagram locked to the pad "pole"/stump
http://www.autopartslib.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/SuzukiSwiftGTRearBrakeCaliperSchematicDiagram.jpg

brake-pads-rear-proton-coupe-etc-5551-p[ekm]250x187[ekm].jpg
 
I had this issue. But mine had a lot of failure points.

1. I serviced both rear calipers. Found one side (the weaker side) was not so smooth. Had dust inside and the dust cover was torn. Replaced everything and sanded off the rusty bits. Repainted calipers

2. The Handbrake cables one side was jammed. Changed both. At least both cables are the same age now.

3. At the handbrake itself, one of the cables wasn't put into the bracket there and was left hanging loose there. So whenever the handbrake was yanked it pulled one side more than the other. After adjusting the position it made things better.

4. The grommet holding the cables in the rear seat there wasn't placed properly allowing a lot of free play. This is a two-man job and I had it realigned and fitted properly.

5. Adjusted the height of the handbrake (not really related).

6. Bled the rear discs to check to see if the oil was flowing normally on both sides. Btw, I was on steel braided hoses cuz the old rubber ones were expanding like mad losing a lot of rear grip.

7. Since everything was out I changed the pads. Avoid Bendix Metal King at all costs. Doesn't bite when cold. Kinda makes handbrake pointless.

If after all that still cannot - you have a problematic caliper and needs replacing.


Oh mann..that's alot things to check out...:driver:
 
senndoh - how old is your car? Mine was 9 years old. Everything was stock since I swapped to rear calipers 5 years ago. Everything there is pretty much wear and tear so have to check mah.
 
i'm using bendix general CT (city driving type) it was awesome at rear...it really bites and i can do handbrake turn easily :driver:

i think it wasnt really self-adjusting because on the pad itself got one "pole"/stump to stop the piston from rotating/adjusting


the piston no.6 in diagram locked to the pad "pole"/stump
http://www.autopartslib.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/SuzukiSwiftGTRearBrakeCaliperSchematicDiagram.jpg

brake-pads-rear-proton-coupe-etc-5551-p[ekm]250x187[ekm].jpg


General CT is for normal use. Bites when cold but cannot withstand too high a heat range. Using them in my wife's Chery SUV for the rear too. Very little dust compared to OE pads.

As for the brakes what I know from my mechanic, as the pads wear it locks outwards to next level, but when changing pads you need special tools to turn the piston back in. Bro. Izso will know he just bought a set of those tools...:driver:
 
As for the brakes what I know from my mechanic, as the pads wear it locks outwards to next level, but when changing pads you need special tools to turn the piston back in. Bro. Izso will know he just bought a set of those tools...:driver:

Sigh. Damn knn situation. My current car drums. Looking at possibility of converting now. HAHAHAHA

Otherwise these tools gonna stay virgin man.
 
General CT is for normal use. Bites when cold but cannot withstand too high a heat range. Using them in my wife's Chery SUV for the rear too. Very little dust compared to OE pads.

As for the brakes what I know from my mechanic, as the pads wear it locks outwards to next level, but when changing pads you need special tools to turn the piston back in. Bro. Izso will know he just bought a set of those tools...:driver:

Sigh. Damn knn situation. My current car drums. Looking at possibility of converting now. HAHAHAHA

Otherwise these tools gonna stay virgin man.


mr benard/maddriver garage also have one of those tool...


me...just use longnose plier :biggrin: and to extent the further fine tuning, i grind off the "stump" on the pad and adjust the caliper clearance to a very tight gap.... :driver:
 
Sigh. Damn knn situation. My current car drums. Looking at possibility of converting now. HAHAHAHA

Otherwise these tools gonna stay virgin man.

Oh! yah! hero was disc, STD are drums....:smokin:

---------- Post added at 03:15 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:13 PM ----------

mr benard/maddriver garage also have one of those tool...


me...just use longnose plier :biggrin: and to extent the further fine tuning, i grind off the "stump" on the pad and adjust the caliper clearance to a very tight gap.... :driver:

If not stuck hard then long nose no problem. Sometimes really need that tools....:banghead:
Wah! you grind off the stump.....:smokin:
 

Similar threads

Posts refresh every 5 minutes




Search

Online now

Enjoying Zerotohundred?

Log-in for an ad-less experience