Michelin ps3 215/45/17

Quicksave cheaper mou?..

Yeah, i drive slow slow only when the road is wet..hehe

You got to check and compare. He deals in the bigger sizes from 17 upwards. 15" he says not competitive...tyres he mentioned don't make much so cannot pay by credit card....
 
Any other forum members care to share about goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 vs michelin ps3?
threadwear, road noise? FC?

since we all know that GYF1A2 is a better performance tyre compared to ps3 based on the online reviews..

michelin ps3 also offers a newer technology on the tyres which good year does not offer if im not mistaken..
Michelin Pilot Sport 3: Long Lasting Grip - YouTube
 
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Any other forum members care to share about goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 vs michelin ps3?
threadwear, road noise? FC?

since we all know that GYF1A2 is a better performance tyre compared to ps3 based on the online reviews..

Every tyre has their strong point and weak point. No tyres have it all. Even if you compare GY Asy and Asy2, Asy have corner grip technology and Asy2 is wet grip technology. Some mention Asy still out corners Asy2, but Asy2 stops shorter in the wet.
Asy2 threadwear is 300, PS3 is 240 or 280, not sure.
 
Every tyre has their strong point and weak point. No tyres have it all. Even if you compare GY Asy and Asy2, Asy have corner grip technology and Asy2 is wet grip technology. Some mention Asy still out corners Asy2, but Asy2 stops shorter in the wet.
Asy2 threadwear is 300, PS3 is 240 or 280, not sure.

threadwear 320. traction AA. temp A
 
I just changed all 4 of my tyres today to gy f1 eagle asy 2
For rm1900. Im wondering what pressure should i pump this tyres?
215-45-17. Ride = perdana v6.

The allightment and camber done was bad.. The shop charged rm60 just to add washers. I came back to the shop after a while because my allighment was out

Just feel ive been conned on the camber pushing. They charged rm240 and stil my allighment is not good.
 
Just go to another shop for alignment, if they cannot do it right the 2nd time means they are crappy.
 
This was my original before they touched,



rear camber was out, so they put washers to make it back to 1.14, so took a car for a ride and came back after a while cause my car was going towards the left when let go of steering.. this time he recommended to do the camber pushing.. after doing that also still alignment lari.. got charged RM300 for all this and still not perfect. Was rushing today so had no time to go back again.
 

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threadwear 320. traction AA. temp A

Thanks, but at 320 many still complain very fast wear......:confused:

---------- Post added at 11:34 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:31 AM ----------

Just go to another shop for alignment, if they cannot do it right the 2nd time means they are crappy.

Agreed, if go back and still cannot settle, then they don't not know how to do it.....

---------- Post added at 11:38 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:34 AM ----------

This was my original before they touched,



rear camber was out, so they put washers to make it back to 1.14, so took a car for a ride and came back after a while cause my car was going towards the left when let go of steering.. this time he recommended to do the camber pushing.. after doing that also still alignment lari.. got charged RM300 for all this and still not perfect. Was rushing today so had no time to go back again.

What is this camber pushing? Hydraulic press? First time I hear this.
They did your camber but did they adjust the alignment?
 
Sorry. I believe its hydraulic press.. Today ill go recheck the current measurement for the toe and camber.
I want to go to another shop but the sad thing is i already paid rm240 to do the hydrallic camber press but i not puas hati. I think maybe the camber is ok. Just the toe not alligh properly
 
Sorry. I believe its hydraulic press.. Today ill go recheck the current measurement for the toe and camber.
I want to go to another shop but the sad thing is i already paid rm240 to do the hydrallic camber press but i not puas hati. I think maybe the camber is ok. Just the toe not alligh properly

Okay, when you mentioned hydraulic press, did they take out your suspension and send for hydraulic press, or they hook up the hydraulic press with chains and lock onto your wheel hub and press?

Since you need the reading, can go back to them first and see what they say. If you can take pic of the current reading and post back here will be good.
 
This was my original before they touched,



rear camber was out, so they put washers to make it back to 1.14, so took a car for a ride and came back after a while cause my car was going towards the left when let go of steering.. this time he recommended to do the camber pushing.. after doing that also still alignment lari.. got charged RM300 for all this and still not perfect. Was rushing today so had no time to go back again.

Your front toe is wrong -1.6 left +1.5 right means tire like this( // // ). Camber of 1 is ok toe will eat your tire fast. The more camber the more cornering grip. Hydraulic press will damage your suspension, camber nut is design for a reason :banghead: use it.
 
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Your front toe is wrong -1.6 left +1.5 right means tire like this( // // ). Camber of 1 is ok toe will eat your tire fast. The more camber the more cornering grip. Hydraulic press will damage your suspension, camber nut is design for a reason :banghead: use it.

Steering is connected to both sides, so it depends whether the steering was place in central position or not. For alignment, if steering is central then both side must have equal reading, if not in central position then one will be toe in and one is toe out, then you will have to see the middle (combine) reading which is -0.1 and green in color.
The correct way of repairing camber is by hydraulic press, but this is done by taking out the suspension and pump the knuckle to change the angle. If they did the hydraulic press by locking onto the wheel hub and use a chain, it will damage the wheel bearing.....
 
Steering is connected to both sides, so it depends whether the steering was place in central position or not. For alignment, if steering is central then both side must have equal reading, if not in central position then one will be toe in and one is toe out, then you will have to see the middle (combine) reading which is -0.1 and green in color.
The correct way of repairing camber is by hydraulic press, but this is done by taking out the suspension and pump the knuckle to change the angle. If they did the hydraulic press by locking onto the wheel hub and use a chain, it will damage the wheel bearing.....


I know how a alignment machine work (i do my own) As u can c the pic posted, TS say that is the 1st reading B4 alignment meaning left is -1.6 toe out, right 1.5 toe in, ignore the centre value cos it only let u know the diff, n the machine is not properly maintain as u can c the reading is wrong, the diff is -3.1 not -0.1, that y his car going left side. The machine need its own alignment too just like a printer.

No tire shop will waste time taking out your absorber n pump knuckle, that would take hour n bos will fxxk gao gao. They just clamp on to the absorber n pump. Just use high quality camber nut or camber plate (aka pillow ball top mount).
 
I know how a alignment machine work (i do my own) As u can c the pic posted, TS say that is the 1st reading B4 alignment meaning left is -1.6 toe out, right 1.5 toe in, ignore the centre value cos it only let u know the diff, n the machine is not properly maintain as u can c the reading is wrong, the diff is -3.1 not -0.1, that y his car going left side. The machine need its own alignment too just like a printer.

No tire shop will waste time taking out your absorber n pump knuckle, that would take hour n bos will fxxk gao gao. They just clamp on to the absorber n pump. Just use high quality camber nut or camber plate (aka pillow ball top mount).

Brother, don't get you. One side toe out and one side toe in, means facing same side, so you cannot add the total. When steering is straighten it will be -0.1. Yes, I agree that the alignment machine need calibration at least once a month.
As for the pump knuckle, I have done before. This were during the days before camber nuts was invented. Then some one came out with the clamp style and killed many wheel bearings....:banghead:
 
Here is my new adjustments

He was saying perdana v6 original rear camber reading is 1.0, rear toe is 0.5

the front toe he was saying if + both it will become 0, not sure about that, also i forgot what he mention about the original camber for the front.

Car was still going slightly left sideways until i fixed the air pressure myself at a petrol station today, front tyres 33, rear 30(all tyres different pressure lol).. I'm not sure about the correct pressure to put for my car..

but im still blur why the rear is both is 0.4.. front one is -0.1, 0.1
this the third time going there..
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/attachment.php?attachmentid=435703&stc=1&d=1335359295
 

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If his alignment machine is with car data and set to your car make and model then those with green reading should be correct and within the tolerance. How did they do your front camber adjustment, as now the reading is near zero, but I would have left it slightly more negative.
Just check your tyre wear every now and then. For air pressure, 33psi cold should be okay, but I would bring the rear pressure a bit close to like 31 or 32psi. The fronts will run hotter and air pressure will increase more during your drive.
 
but fuck my car still going to the left a bit(I guess cause tyre still new, not yet season), Right now im on front 36, rear 34 cause i feel at 33, 30, the grip is too too too superior, tyres feel like its sucking the road like a bitch. Im afraid the FC might increase so i pump keras a bit
 
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Yup, the GY Asy 2 grips very well, like cornering on rails.....
The reading look okay now, and the rear toe look too small to affect front steering to go left.
Too bad got no caster reading, as this can also cause the steering to go left if one side more then the other.
Can try swapping the two front tyres (right to left and left to right) and see if got any effect?
 
Will go to a different shop tomorrow, a michelin shop in seri kembangan, today was cruising around 140kmh on the 3rd lane, i let go my steering and it turned to the 2nd lane within 3 seconds. So i guess its quite bad, with my old tyre and the setup, never had this problem.
 
Will go to a different shop tomorrow, a michelin shop in seri kembangan, today was cruising around 140kmh on the 3rd lane, i let go my steering and it turned to the 2nd lane within 3 seconds. So i guess its quite bad, with my old tyre and the setup, never had this problem.

What route? Certain road slopes inwards, but if the pull is fast then also still have problem....:banghead:
 

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