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Message: <blockquote data-quote="GTi9158" data-source="post: 2720930" data-attributes="member: 12269">PARTS ORDERED FROM <a href="http://www.speedcorps.com" target="_blank">Home - Speed Corps Mitsubishi Performance</a>Complete DETAILED Guide on the Greddy Ti-C Exhaust Kit (SpeedCorps) InstallationEssential Required Equipment1x 14mm spanner, preferably with the grooved circle heads for hex bolts1x 12mm spanner, preferably with the grooved circle heads for hex bolts1x WD40 Can or similar lubricationRecommended Optional extra equipment1x STANLEY (or similar) Ratchet set with a 14mm 12mm and 10mm grooved circle heads for hex bolts1x PB Blaster spray (I didn't use it, but would be handy for an easy job on the flange bolts)*A ratchet set isn't necessary, but helps a great deal especially in the tight spaces. If you do not get a ratchet set, I'd recommend getting an additional 14mm spanner because you'll need another one to hold the nut when screwing in the entrance exhaust opening at the flange.Let's get started... it would be good to do this in a well lit environment, as I soon found out, attempting this after work at 11PM is kind of bad. The whole installation generally takes 45 mins - 1 hour with this guide. For my first time doing it, it took me 1hr on day one, and 45mins on day two, since I didn't have WD40, it is definately essential you have some!Rule number one, is always take your time!PART I - REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUSTBegin by loosening the two 14mm at the flange as shown below. These can be pretty tight. You have two options, either PB Blast is, then loosen, or just muscle it out. If you are looking at it from the back, turn the ratchet/spannar clockwise. For mine, I put the spanner grooved circle on the nut, and smashed it hard and it loosened it. Be careful though!Once the nuts and springs are out, store them safely. You will need BOTH the screws and the springs, so keep them in a safe place.Next, loosen the hanger bolt closest to the flange (right of the flange) as pictured belowOnce this is off, work on the far left hanger bolt (pictured below). Careful, as this would drop, since there are no more supports but one!Once this is off, is the hard part. I found out the hard way that you NEED absolutely need... lubrication. Pick up your WD40 can, and blast it between the hanger (on the stock exhaust) and the rubber holder on BOTH sides. Wiggle the exhaust back and forth for a while until it slips and slides on the rubber smoothly. Next, pull it out towards you. You will need to (I quote SpeedCorps owner, John) "muscle is out". Theres no easy way around this. The WD40 will surely help alot though.Once the big ugly stock exhaust is out, remove is slowly and store it somewhere.PART II - GREDDY Ti-C INSTALLATIONNow the fun part. Unpack your Greddy Ti-C Exhaust kit from SpeedCorps (this is essential, make 100% sure that its not an Injen CAI!). Now, position it below like the picture.Now, for my predicament, if you notice the joining rubber on the hangers, the one to the right does not appear to fit the Greddy's horizontal hanger. Another note, the far back hanger attached to the Greddy piping is shooting left, whereas the stock hanger is on the right. Don't worry*Sorry, slight error in the pic below. I found out that you need to pull the other rubber from (originally) the right of the stock exhaust hanger, and screw it on (with one of the 2 hanger screws removed earlier) to the "red ?" on the 2nd picture. Theres a hole there to screw.To solve this, locate the rubber hanger joiner on the left most of the bumper area. This rubber appears to be horizontal on one end and vertical on the other! Perfect! Its the one that attached the stock exhaust too and should be far from the Greddy's position.Twist is a little and blast some WD40 on the insides of the metal hanger thats attached to the car. Wait 10 - 20 seconds. Wiggle is around till its crazy smooth. Now, with caution (I cut my finger doing this), remove the whole rubber thing. Be very careful, as the force you use could push your hand towards the sharp metal parts further ahead as I soon realised... lolOnce you have it out, remove the metal cylindrical item on the inside of it. Pictured below is the cylinder removed haflway. You might not wanna spray WD40, as it could make the metal slippery, thus making it harder to pull out. For mine, I wedged a sharp plier and poked it out, be extremely careful with your fingers!!!Next, to the right side of the bumper, thats supposed to allign with the Greddy's middle hanger, get the WD40 and blast the metal hanger as well as the rubber. Wiggle it around for 10 - 20 seconds as usual, and pull it out! I noticed the heat shield (shiny thing) was VERY sharp, so I actually removed the shield prior, so I wouldn'y cut my hands again! This is optional though. If you do remove it, make sure to put it back!Next, on the picture below you can see that one of the rubbers is a horizontal/horizontal and the other is vertical/horizontal. For this exercise, of course, you need the combo one. now, lube up the hole (I don't think it matters which hole) and attach it to the bare metal hanger that you just took the other rubber off, pictured below as well. I found it easyFinally, now, align the Greddy's exhaust entrance to the flange and put the screw bolts (with springs) on both holes and tighten it to the nuts provided by Greddy. Use your fingers to do as much tightening as you can on both sides. Now, depending on what tools you decided to get, you place one 14mm ratchet/spanner on either side (bolt/nut side). Ratchet will ALWAYS be on the long screw bolts head side. Hold the spanner down on the nut with your right hand, and tighten the ratchet by turning anti-clockwise (if you are at the rear) with your left hand till not possible anymore, as pictured below. This is where having the ratchet is much easier since you can set it to "tighten mode" and just go up-down-up-down...Now, align the middle hanger with the modified rubber. Blast some WD40 on both the Greddy's middle hanger, and the rubber hole. Lift the exhaust up carefully and ram the hanger into the rubber. This may be a little hard, depending on your position and stuff. Make sure it goes in all the way, because it will. You dont want the exhaust to drop halfway while driving! Remember to take your time.And the finished product should look like this...I'm sure many were waiting for a good How-To for the exhaust kit, and I did my best with many pics, and explaination every step of the way. I hope this helps someone! Thanks and good luck! Let me know if you need help with anything.</blockquote>

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