Just wondering how you guys experience a speed sensor failure?

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shiroitenshi

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My speed sensor died today, and in the middle 2nd gear (about 5-6K rpm) suddenly launch control took effect.. lol (I set it to always on).. I think some motorcyclist were pretty surprised when I passed by.. with the flaming exhaust (thanks the leaky valves, I don't run that rich, usually) and the rev limit kicking it... Sorry!! Didn't do it on purpose... lol.

2 am, and I finally eliminated every single possibility of me losing my speedo reading. Connections and wiring check out okay, so it's the speed sensor.. time to put one in tommorow.

Strange thing is, the codes for a VSS error is there, but even when I unplug the speed sensor, no checklight.. (O_o), nor did hondata detect any.

but I did get a checklight for heater circuit though.. the o2 probably got coated in carbon and didn't work properly no more, which was one of the reasons I run open loop till now.. I part throttle tuned my car on open loop, (which took a long time, and of course I did it when my engine was still healthy)

my idle AFR is impossibly lean, as you can see.. leaky valves gives bad AFR readings, which is why never tune unless you know the car can give proper AFR. I mentioned this in my previous posts, but today was the day I remembered to use the handphone camera, and I just happen to connect the wideband and set it up for another laptop.

Well, just a little longer for those wee LMAs to arrive, then I can look forward to smooth running engine with a slightly higher compression.

wideband.jpg


Idle at 20.8, crazy!
leanafr.jpg
 
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bro shiro,want to ask u something.interested to know more bout the wideband innovate af kit

what kit i need to buy if i want the see the af graph after every run?
 
bro shiro,want to ask u something.interested to know more bout the wideband innovate af kit

what kit i need to buy if i want the see the af graph after every run?

If you just want AFR, then the LC-1 kit, it's small and cheap (what jacks up the price is that expensive XD16 meter) You won't get the bulky LM-1 unit (which has internal memory) and you don't have the auxbox port, but you can daisy chain devices, so that's not a big minus.

But the LC-1 kit by itself is not for tuning, it's only so you know that you're not running lean (maybe injector clogs/fails, valves leak, etc. etc.) sort of a monitoring system.

It doesn't seem to have a loggable RPM input that I know of by itself. Maybe if you daisy chain it with an auxbox(a.k.a. LMA-3) you'd have it.

If you want complete datalog up to the point you know how much the injectors are putting out, est. intake air volume, etc. etc. etc. (actually too many features to list, because I can add third party sensors and datalog that, so it's expandability is limitless in terms of types of sensor it can use) then go for LM-1/LC-1 with the Auxbox, a bit expensive, and unless you are willing to learn the technical aspects of 5 volt linear and non linear sensors.. I think this is maybe not for you. If you're driving honda EG, you have your work cut out for you because I already have a writeup for it.

If you have OBD-2, you're out of luck, I don't really like OBD-2 due to it's apparent lack of tunability (unless you replace it with a standalone). Some diagnostics kit will give features like the LM-1 and auxbox, but it's limited to sensors that are already in the car (no external sensor inputs)

I'll probably get around to OBDII someday, but as long as I am using OBDI, I'll play with OBDI more than OBD2.

Innovate's MTS is designed so you can install it in any kind of car though, because it's generic, but that's where the problem lies. There's no PNP harness, so I had to fabricate my own, and so should you, because if you butcher the original harness, it'd be a headache to track down wiring issues when it happens.

harness.jpg


Trust me, I dug through enough wire harnesses to know. it's not easy probing them either, had to make some custom probes to fit.

PLX devices also makes something like Innovate (some of their stuff are nicer!), but the reason innovate rules the roost is because it's kept basic, and applications for the sensors are only limited by your imagination and the sensors you can wire in.

Depending on your needs, go for one or the other. RPM vs AFR is a required info for on-the-road tuning accuracy, so that's something you should note. If you have hondata, then all you need is the LC-1 with one analog output wired to D14 on OBDI ecu for rpm vs. AFR readout/datalog. Crome also I think, but I'm not too sure about crome.

The only advantage of having auxbox/LM-1 is that you can look at what kind of real time changes piggybacks do, like VAFC, E-manage, etc. etc. where everything is an 'estimation' or a percentage, and the actual injector duty/duration and ignition isn't shown.

Well, have fun.. finding out how your engine works and tuning it yourself is immensely fun. :P
 
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wow bro shiro, juz a wk or two ago, bro aja's speed sensor also died,...
AFR 20.8, huhuhu!!!

i'm thinking that i'm going to be a total idiot at whatz in my engine bay,...
i'm sending u a pm,... maybe u can comment.
 
wow bro shiro, juz a wk or two ago, bro aja's speed sensor also died,...
AFR 20.8, huhuhu!!!

i'm thinking that i'm going to be a total idiot at whatz in my engine bay,...
i'm sending u a pm,... maybe u can comment.

lol.. that one is a sign that the engine not giving proper reading lah..

putting it in another car in good condition gets 15 at idle.
 
bro shiro,sounds so so so so complicated.lol

i just interested to start with basic afr reading.cant really understand those injector percentage,intake air volume or so on
 
well.. are you going to use it to tune, or just observe AFR when driving?
If not tuning, rpm inputs are not required. you can get LC-1 setup or PLX's base model for AFR readout.

The reason you need to be sure of the usage is because as you learn, you might want more sensor inputs, and some AFR meters don't have them.. future upgrade ability probably not there for the really base models.
 
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if u just need the afr reading... get lc-1 since it quite simple.. just a cable and digitial meter... cost u less than 2k.
 
shiro virus effect my car this morning
i have also speed sensor faulty n check light also not light up
so lucky crome can cutoff launch control when AC was switching on
n i din get shiro problem when rpm reach launch control cut off rpm
 
shiro virus effect my car this morning
i have also speed sensor faulty n check light also not light up
so lucky crome can cutoff launch control when AC was switching on
n i din get shiro problem when rpm reach launch control cut off rpm

Hahaha.. wah.. like that oso can.. Actually, after my speed sensor mamposed, I also mapped it to A/C switch.. so no rev cut for now, and I also set min speed for vtec to 0kmh. Still not replacing it yet, because I'm wiring the clutch switch for full throttle shift.

The check light is a bit strange, it doesn't activate immediately.. It has to have another factor (I think must reach redline?), because mine didn't light up, but after I drove it around and hit max rpm, only then checklight lights up. Hondata puts a red ! on the interface, I clicked it, and viola, code 17 VSS, no need to remember how many blinks is what.. :P
 
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