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Headwork for the B16 head.
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<blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 1327338" data-attributes="member: 27518"><p><strong>Hattech-v,</strong></p><p></p><p>Actually crower makes strokers for B16A that ups the displacement to two litres (almost, more like 19XXcc)</p><p></p><p>I think they use pistons with the pin higher in the piston, intruding into the piston ring area. I think they also require reboring and resleeving, or else the block will be too weak to support 2L, but I'm not sure on this. I just looked through the 2006 catalogue, and it was on one of the pages with no mention of required sleeving or reboring (I borrowed it, so I can't browse through it now for the numbers). Anyway, at 9K (price varies depending on piston choice) thereabouts, it's a big entry fee, close to B20B already.. but the lack of piston sprayers on the B20 B really limits it's high rev capability, which sucks big time.. I wonder if anyone got around this problem already...?</p><p></p><p>Seeing Esprit's B20C (B20B, but named B20C by those Japanese ppl.) doing 9500rpm is mouthwatering, to say the least.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, I agree with you that someone should share their PnP experience, and horsepower gains from that. It would be interesting to see how well a PnP job (the ones done in Malaysia, that is) will offer in terms of horsepower gains.</p><p></p><p><strong>HanafyEG,</strong></p><p>K20 is an interesting preposition, but there's too much parts required, and futhermore, the wiring isn't exactly plug and play yet, even the ones made by hybrid-racing/hasport.</p><p></p><p>I guess I'll wait till the wiring is truly plug and play before jumping in. Currently, you still need to splice some wires to make the harness work (AFAIK, that is).</p><p></p><p>I don't think K24 will fit though, there's probably clearance issues since it's a tall block, even if we manage to fit the valve cover under the hood, the oil sump clearance is something to think about. Even the K20 has ground clearance issues for the sump on EGs. </p><p></p><p><strong>Han Jackal,</strong></p><p>Seems you're starting out to be interested in mechanical workings of that lump of steel under your hood. So I guess I'll give a quicky explanation.</p><p></p><p>Stroke = the distance the piston travels from the top of the cylinder to the bottom of the cyclinder. It offers extra displacement because the more distance it travels, the more air+fuel it can pull into the cylinder. Coupled with a bigger bore (piston diameter), it can increase displacement rather significantly.</p><p>The crankshaft is the item that affects the stroke, not the conrods. I mention this because I still remember when I first started learning about the engine, and thought that the stroke is affected by the conrod length, when in fact, it is not. What the conrod length affects is the average piston speed per stroke, which is another story entirely.</p><p></p><p>Oversized piston requires reboring (making the cylinder diameter bigger). There is a limit before you hit the water jacket (the cooling for your engine), or run the risk of having too thin a cylinder wall that it cracks easily.</p><p></p><p>One option that most people opting for a bigger bore is ductile iron sleeves, which are stronger, and hence can be made thinner without compromising the cyclinder wall strength. The entry fee for this is roughly 6K for GE sleeving work, last time I checked.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shiroitenshi, post: 1327338, member: 27518"] [B]Hattech-v,[/B] Actually crower makes strokers for B16A that ups the displacement to two litres (almost, more like 19XXcc) I think they use pistons with the pin higher in the piston, intruding into the piston ring area. I think they also require reboring and resleeving, or else the block will be too weak to support 2L, but I'm not sure on this. I just looked through the 2006 catalogue, and it was on one of the pages with no mention of required sleeving or reboring (I borrowed it, so I can't browse through it now for the numbers). Anyway, at 9K (price varies depending on piston choice) thereabouts, it's a big entry fee, close to B20B already.. but the lack of piston sprayers on the B20 B really limits it's high rev capability, which sucks big time.. I wonder if anyone got around this problem already...? Seeing Esprit's B20C (B20B, but named B20C by those Japanese ppl.) doing 9500rpm is mouthwatering, to say the least. Anyway, I agree with you that someone should share their PnP experience, and horsepower gains from that. It would be interesting to see how well a PnP job (the ones done in Malaysia, that is) will offer in terms of horsepower gains. [B]HanafyEG,[/B] K20 is an interesting preposition, but there's too much parts required, and futhermore, the wiring isn't exactly plug and play yet, even the ones made by hybrid-racing/hasport. I guess I'll wait till the wiring is truly plug and play before jumping in. Currently, you still need to splice some wires to make the harness work (AFAIK, that is). I don't think K24 will fit though, there's probably clearance issues since it's a tall block, even if we manage to fit the valve cover under the hood, the oil sump clearance is something to think about. Even the K20 has ground clearance issues for the sump on EGs. [B]Han Jackal,[/B] Seems you're starting out to be interested in mechanical workings of that lump of steel under your hood. So I guess I'll give a quicky explanation. Stroke = the distance the piston travels from the top of the cylinder to the bottom of the cyclinder. It offers extra displacement because the more distance it travels, the more air+fuel it can pull into the cylinder. Coupled with a bigger bore (piston diameter), it can increase displacement rather significantly. The crankshaft is the item that affects the stroke, not the conrods. I mention this because I still remember when I first started learning about the engine, and thought that the stroke is affected by the conrod length, when in fact, it is not. What the conrod length affects is the average piston speed per stroke, which is another story entirely. Oversized piston requires reboring (making the cylinder diameter bigger). There is a limit before you hit the water jacket (the cooling for your engine), or run the risk of having too thin a cylinder wall that it cracks easily. One option that most people opting for a bigger bore is ductile iron sleeves, which are stronger, and hence can be made thinner without compromising the cyclinder wall strength. The entry fee for this is roughly 6K for GE sleeving work, last time I checked. [/QUOTE]
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Headwork for the B16 head.