DIY Cut Suspension springs

[sarled]

Hi there,
Did anyone do this DIY before for the Perdana? I know the theories and fears about why we shouldn't cut our own springs etc etc, but I haven't heard a real-life experience from a Perdana owner yet.

I am not interested in theories, but just experience, if any of you have any. Also, I am a DIY sort of person so am not very keen to just go out and buy shortened springs from the aftermarket. Any good experience by our forummers? Thanks.

 

[DanzEterna]

dont ever cut your springs., u will definately regret it, may cause accident, the best is to upgrade
to adjustable ones.

 

[Izso]

dont ever cut your absorbers, u will definately regret it, may cause accident, the best is to upgrade
to adjustable ones.

Uh... not absorbers bro, he's talking about springs.


Sarled bro : springs are designed to compress and react a certain way. Some springs are thicker on one side and thinner on another for comfort/performance purposes. Some even have different number of coils upper and lower. If you were to cut it you'll change these properties and you might get bottoming out issues which you definitely don't want.

Cut too much and you'll very likely bottom out very fast.

Cut too little and the ride might because very harsh or floaty.

Also, since springs are wound up, not vertically straight, I don't think you'll have the right tools to measure exact height, length and compression to cut it anyway.

It's too much of a hassle and too much of a risk to cut springs, just buy aftermarket ones from Eibach and DIY install them la. It's more interesting to DIY alignment than cutting springs. Still learning the ropes on this one.

Oh btw, if not mistaken you'll need a blow torch to cut a spring, normal saws won't be so clean cut. And if not properly torched off you might deform the spring itself either by reducing the coil gap or coil rigidity and both is bad.

 

[Maxx]

u can get cheapest sport spring, proride if not mistaken.. better than cutting spring.

 

[DanzEterna]

Uh... not absorbers bro, he's talking about springs.


Sarled bro : springs are designed to compress and react a certain way. Some springs are thicker on one side and thinner on another for comfort/performance purposes. Some even have different number of coils upper and lower. If you were to cut it you'll change these properties and you might get bottoming out issues which you definitely don't want.

Cut too much and you'll very likely bottom out very fast.

Cut too little and the ride might because very harsh or floaty.

Also, since springs are wound up, not vertically straight, I don't think you'll have the right tools to measure exact height, length and compression to cut it anyway.

It's too much of a hassle and too much of a risk to cut springs, just buy aftermarket ones from Eibach and DIY install them la. It's more interesting to DIY alignment than cutting springs. Still learning the ropes on this one.

Oh btw, if not mistaken you'll need a blow torch to cut a spring, normal saws won't be so clean cut. And if not properly torched off you might deform the spring itself either by reducing the coil gap or coil rigidity and both is bad.

haha..typo error...thanks izso.should be springs...

 

[sarled]

Thanks for the feedback, all. I guess cutting the springs seem to be a major sin. I wanted to cold-cut the springs with an angle grinder. I wouldn't use a torch as it cuts too roughly and also the heat will mess up the material at the cut area. DIY changing the absorbers is something I do all the time so it doesn't excite me anymore.

I have changed all fours springs and dampers to Proride a few months back. I hate them, worst use of RM550 ever.... They are lousy. Worst are the front absorbers, they provide no damping at all, at the last few cm of their longest stroke. So there's always a 'thud' as soon as I go over the crest of a speed bump (if I go too fast). Hence, I wanted to cut my springs so that my absorber stroke will be shortened and never have to reach that 'dead' area.

But now Izso just got me excited too on DIY wheel alignment. I would love to try that. Do teach.

 

[LANE]

Seems Sarled is enjoyed of DIY why not .. go and experienced it ..
and tell us ..
:)

 

[sarled]

I also don't want to waste my time and cut my springs up for nothing, hence asking others before doing anything would be better.

 

[mh wong]

xperience bfo on my car iswara - cut spring > very bumpy, like no spring ; seg - burnt n press >floating like perahu...feel somethg not right...

 

[sarled]

Ah, this type of experience is what I am looking for. Mind sharing how much you cut?

 

[Maxx]

wont it be less travel for abs if u cut ur spring?
if im not mistaken, if want lowered ride, short stroke abs pair with sport lowering spring but higher rate (more stiff spring).

anyway, which type proride u use?
i saw 3 types of abs from proride.

 

[sarled]

anyway, which type proride u use?
i saw 3 types of abs from proride.

I took all standard specifications from Proride, for the PV6. Too hard, uneven heights and having the problem I mentioned above.

 

[vr2turbo]

Been there, done that but on 3rd Gen Accord. Don't do it.
Springs have certain strength to hold up the car and to take weight of the car as it goes up and down absorbing. Once you cut, you weaken the strength, Yes, it becomes lower, but it will bottom out on heavy load. Secondly on the rebound the shorter spring again do not have the strength therefore you will have floaty ride...

 

[Izso]

But now Izso just got me excited too on DIY wheel alignment. I would love to try that. Do teach.

I'm still learning. After reading a lot of online material and watching a lot of youtubes I understand the basic jist of manual alignment adjustment but I haven't really had the time to experiment with my own car. Besides, I still haven't quite figured out how caster and toe affect car handling.

 

[mh wong]

Ah, this type of experience is what I am looking for. Mind sharing how much you cut?

dear sarled,
i cut 2 roll

 

[ColdPlay]

IMO, cutting an original spring to have a lower ride isn't a good option as it kill off the compatibility rates with the absorber. If you want heavy duty, why not retrofit? I've got a friend which is using a Pajero spring on his Proton Waja. If you want the looks, why not go for adjustables as it allow you to have a ride sit on no gap
Then again, we are free to experiment the best setup. Trial by error.

As for the manual alignment, yes, both of my ride are on manual alignment. Albeit, not done by me as I am still learning the trade. Kinda fun to learn. Call me old timer but I never trust electronic alignment. Let alone those tyres shop which are more interested in milking your bucks.
I have observe and follow the foreman at work. The basic tool for manual alignment is a 'magnetic bubble gauge' which stick to your disc rotor. Then, you can manually adjust the camber to desired angle based on the bubble gauge reading. Even an expert still take an hour to get it done. Manual alignment and test ride process could stretch to 3 times until the foreman satisfy with the outcome.
Result : Fantastic! It last the tyre's lifespan.
Cost : About the same with electronic alignment but this one need to wait much longer.

There are foreman which use a 3 point camber / caster angle gauge attached to your wheels but the margin of error maybe higher as bent on wheels or tyre flex may affect the reading. The 'magnetic bubble gauge' method depend on the disc rotor which has lesser issue.

 

[kayour]

my experience...saga...cut spring [about 2 coil] n gas absorber front rear...i called it forklift...damn hard n bumpy la
if i hit yellow line..dar dar dar..hahahaha
changed the front absorber to oil type...acceptable la...bajet murah..heheh

my ke70 gl....i cut about 2"...but not the oem spring
i get it from chop shop...seem its harder...bcos the size is slightly bigger
ok la for olskool setup

learn sumthing from this diy projek
always measure the lenght of the spring using measuring tape/ ruler
do not simply cut base on number of the coil...some time its not very accurate
n cause ur car senget...from my experience..heheh

 

[sarled]

IMO, cutting an original spring to have a lower ride isn't a good option as it kill off the compatibility rates with the absorber. If you want heavy duty, why not retrofit? I've got a friend which is using a Pajero spring on his Proton Waja. If you want the looks, why not go for adjustables as it allow you to have a ride sit on no gap
Then again, we are free to experiment the best setup. Trial by error.

As for the manual alignment, yes, both of my ride are on manual alignment. Albeit, not done by me as I am still learning the trade. Kinda fun to learn. Call me old timer but I never trust electronic alignment. Let alone those tyres shop which are more interested in milking your bucks.
I have observe and follow the foreman at work. The basic tool for manual alignment is a 'magnetic bubble gauge' which stick to your disc rotor. Then, you can manually adjust the camber to desired angle based on the bubble gauge reading. Even an expert still take an hour to get it done. Manual alignment and test ride process could stretch to 3 times until the foreman satisfy with the outcome.
Result : Fantastic! It last the tyre's lifespan.
Cost : About the same with electronic alignment but this one need to wait much longer.

There are foreman which use a 3 point camber / caster angle gauge attached to your wheels but the margin of error maybe higher as bent on wheels or tyre flex may affect the reading. The 'magnetic bubble gauge' method depend on the disc rotor which has lesser issue.

Very interesting. I think I wanna Google it and try it out myself. I am curious about the bubble gause, I am guessing it's a spirit level gauge, no?

---------- Post added at 07:21 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:18 AM ----------

OK guys. Thanks for the insight. I'll be a good boy and take all your advices, and NOT do it. Seems like nobody got a good experience.

 

[vr2turbo]

wont it be less travel for abs if u cut ur spring?
if im not mistaken, if want lowered ride, short stroke abs pair with sport lowering spring but higher rate (more stiff spring).

anyway, which type proride u use?
i saw 3 types of abs from proride.

Yup, shorter travel and with weaker springs will bottom out. However with aftermarket shorten springs are different as even though shorter, the springs still have the tension strength to hold up the car.

---------- Post added at 09:08 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:55 AM ----------

As for the manual alignment, yes, both of my ride are on manual alignment. Albeit, not done by me as I am still learning the trade. Kinda fun to learn. Call me old timer but I never trust electronic alignment. Let alone those tyres shop which are more interested in milking your bucks.
I have observe and follow the foreman at work. The basic tool for manual alignment is a 'magnetic bubble gauge' which stick to your disc rotor. Then, you can manually adjust the camber to desired angle based on the bubble gauge reading. Even an expert still take an hour to get it done. Manual alignment and test ride process could stretch to 3 times until the foreman satisfy with the outcome.
Result : Fantastic! It last the tyre's lifespan.
Cost : About the same with electronic alignment but this one need to wait much longer.

There are foreman which use a 3 point camber / caster angle gauge attached to your wheels but the margin of error maybe higher as bent on wheels or tyre flex may affect the reading. The 'magnetic bubble gauge' method depend on the disc rotor which has lesser issue.

Ah! how does he do alignment with the bubble gauge? This gauge only good for camber adjustment. Even the tyre shops using electronic alignment machine still need this gauge when doing the camber adjustment. Electronic machine just to show the alignment and camber reading. Alignment can be done with machine still hooked on, but for camber the reading are taken and wheels have to be removed, gauge attached to disc, camber is set, then machine attached again for checking.

Manual alignment machine are those cement to the floor ones....

 

[ColdPlay]

Very interesting. I think I wanna Google it and try it out myself. I am curious about the bubble gause, I am guessing it's a spirit level gauge, no?

---------- Post added at 07:21 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:18 AM ----------

OK guys. Thanks for the insight. I'll be a good boy and take all your advices, and NOT do it. Seems like nobody got a good experience.

Right. Was call spirit level gauge as well but I prefer to call it magnetic bubble gauge due to you depend on the bubble position to get the correct reading, just like a carpenter

Ah! how does he do alignment with the bubble gauge? This gauge only good for camber adjustment. Even the tyre shops using electronic alignment machine still need this gauge when doing the camber adjustment. Electronic machine just to show the alignment and camber reading. Alignment can be done with machine still hooked on, but for camber the reading are taken and wheels have to be removed, gauge attached to disc, camber is set, then machine attached again for checking.

Manual alignment machine are those cement to the floor ones....

The foreman only had the magnetic bubble gauge as main tool. But he does put the front tires in the centre of those thing you posted. That is to get a level position.
Remove the tyres, stick the magnetic bubble gauge to the disc rotor, go underneath and adjust little by little until the bubble is in correct position. Put back both front tyres and test the car. If the result isn't up to his expectation, he will removed the tyres again and repeat the process.
Kinda tiring it really need a hell of patient to do it.
Those electronic machine are mostly for show. Last time I follow a friend, they hooked up the tools on all for side, go underneath and do the 'job'. When my friend went to pay, they shut down the monitor and told him job done. I am quite far but the front reading is like -0.6 and 1.1 or something...lol. I ask the guy to redo but he told us to come back if there is any problem.
True enough, next day my friend has to come back as the car is pulling to one side.