d'carbonize treatment..
- Thread starter redsunz
- Start date
im using Carb cleaner/antirust to clean Throtle body.
for combustion chamber, im using distilled water + decarb treatment, i get from singapore. guess cant find it outside....
normaly decarbonize only go to combustion chamber areas....but how bout ur throttle body? its still dirty.....so try to clean it as well...it wil be beter
my2cent
for combustion chamber, im using distilled water + decarb treatment, i get from singapore. guess cant find it outside....
normaly decarbonize only go to combustion chamber areas....but how bout ur throttle body? its still dirty.....so try to clean it as well...it wil be beter
my2cent
Myself is operating a car service center in Kajang. I had sell a decarbonize product which in fluids form since 2 years ago. The result is fantastic. It's easy to clean carbon by just start on your engine and have a direct spray to the throttle body, simultaneously it could cleansing your TTB, combustion chamber, and o2 sensor. No lie at all, because we use a pin hole camera to prove before and after service.
The BG products work very well... made in my home state too!
One very effective method for major deposits and not just a light cleaning is to use a small feed connected to a vacuum port - let the engine pull in a dribble while it runs.
NOT TOO MUCH at once. A cool tool for this are those "can taps". With one of those you can regulate the flow... nice. http://www.liftmyrod.com/AirConditioning/CanTaps/MSC-85530.jpg and http://store.lenzdist.com/shopimages/products/thumbnails/AECT438N.gif
With only a little left, shut the engine off and pour the rest in the inlet. Again, not too much as hydrolocking is a bad thing. Let it sit for a couple of hours and when you start it back up it will fog like crazy (so dont do it close to your door heh)
You can also do this with tank additives and I would recommend you do. The method I described above is for severe cases. There are some instances where it wouldnt have to be a severe need but those are rare and more about tweaking for performance.
Water, alchohol, etc all work too but if done often there might be tradeoffs.
HTH!
One very effective method for major deposits and not just a light cleaning is to use a small feed connected to a vacuum port - let the engine pull in a dribble while it runs.
NOT TOO MUCH at once. A cool tool for this are those "can taps". With one of those you can regulate the flow... nice. http://www.liftmyrod.com/AirConditioning/CanTaps/MSC-85530.jpg and http://store.lenzdist.com/shopimages/products/thumbnails/AECT438N.gif
With only a little left, shut the engine off and pour the rest in the inlet. Again, not too much as hydrolocking is a bad thing. Let it sit for a couple of hours and when you start it back up it will fog like crazy (so dont do it close to your door heh)
You can also do this with tank additives and I would recommend you do. The method I described above is for severe cases. There are some instances where it wouldnt have to be a severe need but those are rare and more about tweaking for performance.
Water, alchohol, etc all work too but if done often there might be tradeoffs.
HTH!
Lets define that.
It "works" if you have carbon buildup. You wont be able to tell though unless the carbon buildup is giving you symptoms. Pinging is a common trait, but I have witnessed many moons ago a few Chrysler minivans that used to come into the dealership that knocked.
Yeah, KNOCKED. Sounded like a rod bearing had gone out resulting in a piston smacking the head. You can guess that it was NOT a bearing. That was my first introduction to BG products. It had come filtered down from the techs at corporate that certain fuel grades under certain conditions were resulting in a LARGE amount of buildup. We used 1/2 or 3/4 can on the engine while running, dumping in the rest after shut down via intake. A second can was added to the tank. Mesquito killer!
I tell that long story because I almost dont believe it myself. Never witnessed other vehicles with that problem again. Wild eh?
For the "tuners" slapping on turbos and the like with altered timing advance etc, you can sometimes run a little closer to the razors edge by having clean cyl IF the "dirty" cylinders were limiting you. Oil has a low octane and ridding yourself of it (and any carbon buildup) may allow for another lb of boost or degree of timing.
This isnt a BG commercial. Other products are out there. In my opinion the majority of cars that can use a top engine clean or "treatment" can make do with the kind you just dump in the gas tank. No need to get fancy.
It "works" if you have carbon buildup. You wont be able to tell though unless the carbon buildup is giving you symptoms. Pinging is a common trait, but I have witnessed many moons ago a few Chrysler minivans that used to come into the dealership that knocked.
Yeah, KNOCKED. Sounded like a rod bearing had gone out resulting in a piston smacking the head. You can guess that it was NOT a bearing. That was my first introduction to BG products. It had come filtered down from the techs at corporate that certain fuel grades under certain conditions were resulting in a LARGE amount of buildup. We used 1/2 or 3/4 can on the engine while running, dumping in the rest after shut down via intake. A second can was added to the tank. Mesquito killer!
I tell that long story because I almost dont believe it myself. Never witnessed other vehicles with that problem again. Wild eh?
For the "tuners" slapping on turbos and the like with altered timing advance etc, you can sometimes run a little closer to the razors edge by having clean cyl IF the "dirty" cylinders were limiting you. Oil has a low octane and ridding yourself of it (and any carbon buildup) may allow for another lb of boost or degree of timing.
This isnt a BG commercial. Other products are out there. In my opinion the majority of cars that can use a top engine clean or "treatment" can make do with the kind you just dump in the gas tank. No need to get fancy.
i myself am using this product... works like a charm... proven wif some of the extreme night guys... Lubroil Total Mini-Overhaul Engine Package
No, Im describing a process to remove carbon buildup internally.
99.9% of anyone reading this will likely never need to do it. If anything at all, ever, a small bottle of cleaner added during petrol fillup will be all you need... and even that isnt something you have to do on any regular basis IF at all.
I only mentioned it because I was reminded of that crazy story AND there are a few instances where someone might want to be thorough.
In my case it was so I could run as much boost/timing as possible and I had some buildup with oily deposits getting in the way. At that time I was looking for 20+psi on the street.
Carb cleaner has its uses but not now.
99.9% of anyone reading this will likely never need to do it. If anything at all, ever, a small bottle of cleaner added during petrol fillup will be all you need... and even that isnt something you have to do on any regular basis IF at all.
I only mentioned it because I was reminded of that crazy story AND there are a few instances where someone might want to be thorough.
In my case it was so I could run as much boost/timing as possible and I had some buildup with oily deposits getting in the way. At that time I was looking for 20+psi on the street.
Carb cleaner has its uses but not now.
yeah.....nowadays....that is the latest thing...decarb this decarb that....now so far i already heard 3 different brands...PRofessor, CF1, D'carbo and the list goes on....how would we know what is the content in each of this bottle??? all say safe to use no harm to converter or o2 sensor.....man...automobile industry really can make money...
Something I have not checked here but is required in the US is to have the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet), If I recall properly, on hand for instant recall. This is mostly for emergency responders should there be a spill etc.
They are also required to produce it on request by ANYone. I have taken advantage of this to see the full ingredient list for octane boosters (more snake oil). That was years ago though.... now with all the info on the internet and better product labels I doubt you have to.
Shorter reply: doesnt the label show whats in it? Most of them will have the same "active ingredient".
Fuels are a lot cleaner these days also which helps, BUT with all the stop and go drivinng in KL I could see a use for the occasional additive. Once a year maybe? The description I confused everyone with in an earlier post is for sever cases - now Im talking about stuff you just put in the tank.
They are also required to produce it on request by ANYone. I have taken advantage of this to see the full ingredient list for octane boosters (more snake oil). That was years ago though.... now with all the info on the internet and better product labels I doubt you have to.
Shorter reply: doesnt the label show whats in it? Most of them will have the same "active ingredient".
Fuels are a lot cleaner these days also which helps, BUT with all the stop and go drivinng in KL I could see a use for the occasional additive. Once a year maybe? The description I confused everyone with in an earlier post is for sever cases - now Im talking about stuff you just put in the tank.
agree...with u but some locally developed decarbonizer....rarely provide what is the ingredient mostly mentioned is non-solvent base but vegetative based....talking about MSDS sheet....dont even hope those guys to provide us....here in malaysia...people are yet educated on this......
mengz : only fuel injection cars can use that 3M fuel injector cleaner right?
i dont think its suitable for carb cars?
i dont think its suitable for carb cars?
- May 20, 2006
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Well for carb cars - i m a carb user - i user carb cleaner spray from STP/1top bought in eonos cost bou rm 20 or less -- I spray on the carb and to vaccuum hose inlet - when i did top overhaul because my gasket need to be changed - the pistong was clean - i do this every 10000 km h once --DIY - cost rm 20 - works for me ---
Thre is spray type - one for all usage- and another type is spray and liquid form -
So far my engine is good - very smooth - mileage per full tank 45L petrol i get bout 470-500 kmh
Thre is spray type - one for all usage- and another type is spray and liquid form -
So far my engine is good - very smooth - mileage per full tank 45L petrol i get bout 470-500 kmh
If you use a lot of spray on a carb, let it evap before starting but dont let it sit for days... carb cleaner (spray) can leave a gummy "film" behind if used in large amounts. Dont forget the linkage!
Not endorsing any particular brand here but STP has a nice description of their products here: STP® - Fuel Additives
Not endorsing any particular brand here but STP has a nice description of their products here: STP® - Fuel Additives
- Mar 6, 2005
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1.Anyone heard or tried "Blue Coral" brand of fuel system treatment/cleaner?
2.How bout Pennzoil's endorsed by Dale Earnhart..??
3.For those using 3M's fuel injector cleaner,hows de effectiveness?how many treatment do u need to "feel" the difference..??
I've been surveying around for a fuel injector cleaner for my 3 year old Proton GEN2 but here in Kota Kinabalu Sabah kinda hard to get a reputable brand like Redline,LubeGuard,3M...got those cheapo unknown brands a lot la but hard to trust the "claims" on the labels man...
Cheers!!!
2.How bout Pennzoil's endorsed by Dale Earnhart..??
3.For those using 3M's fuel injector cleaner,hows de effectiveness?how many treatment do u need to "feel" the difference..??
I've been surveying around for a fuel injector cleaner for my 3 year old Proton GEN2 but here in Kota Kinabalu Sabah kinda hard to get a reputable brand like Redline,LubeGuard,3M...got those cheapo unknown brands a lot la but hard to trust the "claims" on the labels man...
Cheers!!!
I've heard of blue coral...is a brand under Shell company in Europe....planning to get the radiator flush....3M?? didnt know they are into automobile..Pennzoil been around for long long time liao....wanna clean your injectors?? best is to do it manual one by one...lots of dismantling la...
Injectors have to be pretty bad to "feel" any changes. The cleaning that you do is a preventative thing.
One way to help cut down on crap in your injectors is to not drive the car til the tank is on fumes, another is to keep the tank full if not driving the car (extended periods might need something like staybil also). Change your fuel filter!
I think many people put too much emphasis on inj cleaning. Fuels are so much better than they used to be. I would recommend once a year or so (or so = every other year) adding an additive to the tank - pick your poison... brand is secondary IMO. Heck, you can even make some homebrew cleaner if you want with Toluene.
One way to help cut down on crap in your injectors is to not drive the car til the tank is on fumes, another is to keep the tank full if not driving the car (extended periods might need something like staybil also). Change your fuel filter!
I think many people put too much emphasis on inj cleaning. Fuels are so much better than they used to be. I would recommend once a year or so (or so = every other year) adding an additive to the tank - pick your poison... brand is secondary IMO. Heck, you can even make some homebrew cleaner if you want with Toluene.
- Mar 6, 2005
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GNandGS,
Good advice ther bro!"Preventive Maintenance",yup, thats de key word here which i'm tryin to do for my ride,to keep her in pristine condition...thats y i'm tryin to source the most effective cleaner for my engine fuel system,stuff that works as claimed!
NSyline,
To dismantle n clean yr injectors need specialist skills+equipment bro,cos yr injectors are "precisely engineered" items,cos if u "screwed up" the calibrated orifice while doin "maintenance/servicing" on it,then u better buy a new one bro cos yr engine wont be running smoothly+efficiently after that..;-)
Cheers!!!
Good advice ther bro!"Preventive Maintenance",yup, thats de key word here which i'm tryin to do for my ride,to keep her in pristine condition...thats y i'm tryin to source the most effective cleaner for my engine fuel system,stuff that works as claimed!
NSyline,
To dismantle n clean yr injectors need specialist skills+equipment bro,cos yr injectors are "precisely engineered" items,cos if u "screwed up" the calibrated orifice while doin "maintenance/servicing" on it,then u better buy a new one bro cos yr engine wont be running smoothly+efficiently after that..;-)
Cheers!!!
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