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<blockquote data-quote="defcon1" data-source="post: 1369172" data-attributes="member: 30064"><p>Hey...good to be here... :)</p><p></p><p>Now noises under the Cefiro...that used to be a constant problem.</p><p></p><p>a) The bushings that give way often are the ones on the lower arms. Fortunately for us, those are replaceable individually without having to change the entire lower arm. Most of the noise I encountered were attributed to these.</p><p></p><p>b) The bushings in the rear are not replaceable with stock parts. But then again, they are bloody tough. I got my mech to grease them with high pressure grease and they quietened down a lot.</p><p></p><p>c) Finally, every time you send your car in for service get the mech to re-torque your undercarriage nuts and bolts.</p><p></p><p>d) For better handling, try camber bolts. And set them to about 1 degree negative camber. you will be surprised how firm the car will feel. However, the clearance between the knuckle and the shocks in our car is very small. If you cannot achieve 1 degree then 0.5 degrees left and right will do.</p><p></p><p>I will write to Whiteline tonight to see if they have options for the A32. I hope Bob Tait is still there as it has been some time since I have spoken to them. Let's see what they recommend.</p><p></p><p>Low profile tyres contribute to vibration. Since there is less rubber and air between you and the road, there is less of a damping effect. Hence, you encounter more noise.</p><p></p><p>As to the Y-Pipe...the design is simple. Basically only 2 mandrels, a straight pipe and 2 O2 sensor mounting points. Use back the original pipe diameter of 2.5", so you can scrounge back your flanges from the old Y-pipe. Not difficult at all...and an exhaust man with good welding skills can be guided to produce the correct shape. Once a single piece is made, others can be copied. I usually advocate using just mild steel pipes and not S/S. At that point of the exhaust, it will take years for the steel to rust and steel produces a lower pitched sound than S/S. Anybody now a good exhaust shop (welding skills) who has mandrels and whose prices can be negotiated with a group purchase? I will be happy to guide the welder... :)</p><p></p><p>I have images of the Y-Pipe in question but don't know how to upload the images... :(</p><p></p><p>Then we can all have an exhaust shop T/T session to fit our Y pipes... <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/laugh.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":laugh:" title="Laugh :laugh:" data-shortname=":laugh:" /></p><p></p><p>About T/T on the 11th, I might have to go down to Sg that weekend. Any chance of this weekend? Beginning of the month, freer for me in my pressure cooker job... :sad_smile:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="defcon1, post: 1369172, member: 30064"] Hey...good to be here... :) Now noises under the Cefiro...that used to be a constant problem. a) The bushings that give way often are the ones on the lower arms. Fortunately for us, those are replaceable individually without having to change the entire lower arm. Most of the noise I encountered were attributed to these. b) The bushings in the rear are not replaceable with stock parts. But then again, they are bloody tough. I got my mech to grease them with high pressure grease and they quietened down a lot. c) Finally, every time you send your car in for service get the mech to re-torque your undercarriage nuts and bolts. d) For better handling, try camber bolts. And set them to about 1 degree negative camber. you will be surprised how firm the car will feel. However, the clearance between the knuckle and the shocks in our car is very small. If you cannot achieve 1 degree then 0.5 degrees left and right will do. I will write to Whiteline tonight to see if they have options for the A32. I hope Bob Tait is still there as it has been some time since I have spoken to them. Let's see what they recommend. Low profile tyres contribute to vibration. Since there is less rubber and air between you and the road, there is less of a damping effect. Hence, you encounter more noise. As to the Y-Pipe...the design is simple. Basically only 2 mandrels, a straight pipe and 2 O2 sensor mounting points. Use back the original pipe diameter of 2.5", so you can scrounge back your flanges from the old Y-pipe. Not difficult at all...and an exhaust man with good welding skills can be guided to produce the correct shape. Once a single piece is made, others can be copied. I usually advocate using just mild steel pipes and not S/S. At that point of the exhaust, it will take years for the steel to rust and steel produces a lower pitched sound than S/S. Anybody now a good exhaust shop (welding skills) who has mandrels and whose prices can be negotiated with a group purchase? I will be happy to guide the welder... :) I have images of the Y-Pipe in question but don't know how to upload the images... :( Then we can all have an exhaust shop T/T session to fit our Y pipes... :laugh: About T/T on the 11th, I might have to go down to Sg that weekend. Any chance of this weekend? Beginning of the month, freer for me in my pressure cooker job... :sad_smile: [/QUOTE]
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