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B20-CRV VTEC - Why it Blows.....
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<blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2977463" data-attributes="member: 27518"><p>Woah, zth is alive again, those freq maintainance and server downs were really turning me off.</p><p></p><p>back to topic</p><p></p><p>someone once told me he ran 32degs on his b20b at WOT (peak load?)</p><p></p><p>while in real life, I'm fighting knock at timings way below that. Sure I can set it at 32, and hope that the P30/honda knock sensor retards the timing, but one day the knock sensor fails, kablooie engine. There's also the problem of trying to differentiate between knock and piston slap, but that one is solved in a rather mundane way. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Well, still waiting for the vacuum log, before the ITB install. Won't be much different i'd guess, big throttle bodies, but breathing out a 2.25 inch exhaust.</p><p></p><p>As to why b20B blows, it's sometimes the tune as well. A lot of people run piggybacks on B20B setups. One problem with this is that honda P30 ecu retards the ignition upon hearing knock. And that confuses the tuner who tunes the ride. What we see on the mapping aren't the real life timings and duty cycle. (honestly speaking though, it's hard to f**k up a tune unless you tune blind, and believe B20B can put out 250whp WITHOUT some serious mods) And I edited that word for accuracy.. SOMETIMES ITs the tune, prolly 90% of the time, it's parts failure due to overevving.. </p><p></p><p>"Oi, my b20b can make 9500rpm!, I did it a few times yesterday.. I'm going to show you today I can do it too.... Vrooommm--BOOOM!"</p><p></p><p>Lesson: If it works a few times, it MAY not work all the time.</p><p></p><p>Anyway..</p><p>For a B20b, I think most should never ever opt for piggybacks, but invest in standalones.</p><p></p><p>A second possible reason is injectors. You can bump up fuel regulator and use H22A injectors with the resistor packs, but it's not a long term solution. If the resistor box fails, the injectors will deliver fuel differently, and that's where one of the problems begin. or start to put out fuel intermittently (lean sauce, anyone?)</p><p></p><p>Another is loose piston to bore clearances. Most B20bs are loose, and they get loose a lot faster than B16s due to the rod stroke ratio and the rod angle. Piston slap, faster wear, and soon enough, low compression and bye bye engine.</p><p></p><p>Then again, if you daily drive a B20b, it probably won't cost much to maintain. since you probably won't be revving it up to 8K every day.</p><p></p><p>Love the low end torque, makes driving a breeze, and sometimes you wonder if you really needed VTEC :P</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shiroitenshi, post: 2977463, member: 27518"] Woah, zth is alive again, those freq maintainance and server downs were really turning me off. back to topic someone once told me he ran 32degs on his b20b at WOT (peak load?) while in real life, I'm fighting knock at timings way below that. Sure I can set it at 32, and hope that the P30/honda knock sensor retards the timing, but one day the knock sensor fails, kablooie engine. There's also the problem of trying to differentiate between knock and piston slap, but that one is solved in a rather mundane way. Well, still waiting for the vacuum log, before the ITB install. Won't be much different i'd guess, big throttle bodies, but breathing out a 2.25 inch exhaust. As to why b20B blows, it's sometimes the tune as well. A lot of people run piggybacks on B20B setups. One problem with this is that honda P30 ecu retards the ignition upon hearing knock. And that confuses the tuner who tunes the ride. What we see on the mapping aren't the real life timings and duty cycle. (honestly speaking though, it's hard to f**k up a tune unless you tune blind, and believe B20B can put out 250whp WITHOUT some serious mods) And I edited that word for accuracy.. SOMETIMES ITs the tune, prolly 90% of the time, it's parts failure due to overevving.. "Oi, my b20b can make 9500rpm!, I did it a few times yesterday.. I'm going to show you today I can do it too.... Vrooommm--BOOOM!" Lesson: If it works a few times, it MAY not work all the time. Anyway.. For a B20b, I think most should never ever opt for piggybacks, but invest in standalones. A second possible reason is injectors. You can bump up fuel regulator and use H22A injectors with the resistor packs, but it's not a long term solution. If the resistor box fails, the injectors will deliver fuel differently, and that's where one of the problems begin. or start to put out fuel intermittently (lean sauce, anyone?) Another is loose piston to bore clearances. Most B20bs are loose, and they get loose a lot faster than B16s due to the rod stroke ratio and the rod angle. Piston slap, faster wear, and soon enough, low compression and bye bye engine. Then again, if you daily drive a B20b, it probably won't cost much to maintain. since you probably won't be revving it up to 8K every day. Love the low end torque, makes driving a breeze, and sometimes you wonder if you really needed VTEC :P [/QUOTE]
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B20-CRV VTEC - Why it Blows.....