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<blockquote data-quote="k0pi" data-source="post: 1064508346" data-attributes="member: 117648"><p>wanna start modding? </p><p></p><p><strong>1st purchase & installation</strong> : Engine Management Systems + Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator</p><p>Currently, I vote E-Manage Ultimate + aftermarket MAP sensor + O2 wideband sensor. Why do I suggest EMS first before you start spending on other stuff - almost every stock engine is factory limited electronically of its bottomline potential 'while with' OEM hardware by at least 5-10 good wheel horsepower and 1-2kgft of torque, and the speed limiter. Having EMS & AFPR first also makes it worth it to proper tune later when you start adding on other performance hardware in the development process. Drive by wire throttle that hampers acceleration? EMU can do magic with that... no need to buy some DBW controller, and... controls the DVVT behavior of your Swift for a wider torque play.</p><p></p><p><strong>2nd purchase</strong> : increasing the efficiency in-ex flow of air & burnt gas from your engine : </p><p>1. Start with a one time, good, cylinder head port & polishing job. Nevermind yet the intake system and exhaust system. The P&P job may optimize or exceed the capacity of the intake system & exhaust so later you'd know if you need to improve the intake flow or, the ex flow. Note that in many-many-many cases, OEM intake system (airfilter, throttle body, intake plenum) is actually capable for a huge hp increase support, and being good at it too, and so does the OEM extractor. By this point, after dyno-tuned your airfuel ratio accordingly to the new cylinder head flow rate, you should be able to have, surely better horsepower & torque on the dyno sheet.</p><p></p><p>With this 2 firsts packages to do, and about RM5,000 spent averagely include labor fees, it's gonna worth you every cents rather than spending on other cheap add-ons and expecting miracles to happen. Car will still looks stock, sounds NEARLY stock, but it will have a very different edge to acceleration and speed. Maybe you can do away the stock extractor with a reputable performance extractor to justify the powerband is since every factory extractors for these normal passenger cars are tuned for low - mid powerband play for fuel efficiency. Okay, so you like bigger exhausts... then by this point, it's okay... but please do the exhaust system with someone recommendable in the motorsport industry and not with some ahbeng ekjos shop. GO QUALITY, or stay home. This probably will set you back another RM1,000.</p><p></p><p>Next up : Fuelling system > fuel pump. Just upgrade the fuel pump to higher lph so the fuelling to the engine at high rpm won't lean out. The mean is, just so the spray pattern of your injectors into the manifold during higher and faster motion rpm, is as normal as at lower rpm because there is adequate fuel pressure in the fuel line. This will help your engine to survive longer and not sucking engine oil from below the pistons. Most blown engine occurs at high rpm because the fuel didn't reach the combustion chamber properly by 2 factors : insufficient fuel pressure in the line, causing injector spray patter to diminish - while you're seeing normal at the AFPR meter, or the injector itself couldn't supply enough fuel volume (in cc) when the engine is running at high speed/rpm. But when you upgrade the fuelling system, you have to upgrade your ignition system to a higher voltage supply at faster rate as well to compensate with the increasing speed capability of engine operation and upgrading engine's cooling efficiency (lower temp thermostat + engine oil radiator). At this point, whether you need to increase your injector cc, depends on dyno tuners because they'll know for sure during dynotest-tune process, nobody can say for sure before the car gets up on dyno and the AFR/Ignition tuned & observed. Another RM2,000.00 - Fuel pump, thermostat, oil cooler, installation fee.</p><p></p><p>and around RM800.00 buck spent for dyno tunings in and out. Wah... nearly RM8k... hahaha</p><p></p><p>After this point - if you're still not satisfied with the power - to turbocharged or to go edgy with NA 12/13.0:1 comp ratio, it's on you, but the car is already ready to receive it since every other essential things are there as base for the upgrade.</p><p></p><p>in... which i just recommend this rather than modders spending the hard earned money for stuff with 50% risk of actually eating away power.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="k0pi, post: 1064508346, member: 117648"] wanna start modding? [B]1st purchase & installation[/B] : Engine Management Systems + Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Currently, I vote E-Manage Ultimate + aftermarket MAP sensor + O2 wideband sensor. Why do I suggest EMS first before you start spending on other stuff - almost every stock engine is factory limited electronically of its bottomline potential 'while with' OEM hardware by at least 5-10 good wheel horsepower and 1-2kgft of torque, and the speed limiter. Having EMS & AFPR first also makes it worth it to proper tune later when you start adding on other performance hardware in the development process. Drive by wire throttle that hampers acceleration? EMU can do magic with that... no need to buy some DBW controller, and... controls the DVVT behavior of your Swift for a wider torque play. [B]2nd purchase[/B] : increasing the efficiency in-ex flow of air & burnt gas from your engine : 1. Start with a one time, good, cylinder head port & polishing job. Nevermind yet the intake system and exhaust system. The P&P job may optimize or exceed the capacity of the intake system & exhaust so later you'd know if you need to improve the intake flow or, the ex flow. Note that in many-many-many cases, OEM intake system (airfilter, throttle body, intake plenum) is actually capable for a huge hp increase support, and being good at it too, and so does the OEM extractor. By this point, after dyno-tuned your airfuel ratio accordingly to the new cylinder head flow rate, you should be able to have, surely better horsepower & torque on the dyno sheet. With this 2 firsts packages to do, and about RM5,000 spent averagely include labor fees, it's gonna worth you every cents rather than spending on other cheap add-ons and expecting miracles to happen. Car will still looks stock, sounds NEARLY stock, but it will have a very different edge to acceleration and speed. Maybe you can do away the stock extractor with a reputable performance extractor to justify the powerband is since every factory extractors for these normal passenger cars are tuned for low - mid powerband play for fuel efficiency. Okay, so you like bigger exhausts... then by this point, it's okay... but please do the exhaust system with someone recommendable in the motorsport industry and not with some ahbeng ekjos shop. GO QUALITY, or stay home. This probably will set you back another RM1,000. Next up : Fuelling system > fuel pump. Just upgrade the fuel pump to higher lph so the fuelling to the engine at high rpm won't lean out. The mean is, just so the spray pattern of your injectors into the manifold during higher and faster motion rpm, is as normal as at lower rpm because there is adequate fuel pressure in the fuel line. This will help your engine to survive longer and not sucking engine oil from below the pistons. Most blown engine occurs at high rpm because the fuel didn't reach the combustion chamber properly by 2 factors : insufficient fuel pressure in the line, causing injector spray patter to diminish - while you're seeing normal at the AFPR meter, or the injector itself couldn't supply enough fuel volume (in cc) when the engine is running at high speed/rpm. But when you upgrade the fuelling system, you have to upgrade your ignition system to a higher voltage supply at faster rate as well to compensate with the increasing speed capability of engine operation and upgrading engine's cooling efficiency (lower temp thermostat + engine oil radiator). At this point, whether you need to increase your injector cc, depends on dyno tuners because they'll know for sure during dynotest-tune process, nobody can say for sure before the car gets up on dyno and the AFR/Ignition tuned & observed. Another RM2,000.00 - Fuel pump, thermostat, oil cooler, installation fee. and around RM800.00 buck spent for dyno tunings in and out. Wah... nearly RM8k... hahaha After this point - if you're still not satisfied with the power - to turbocharged or to go edgy with NA 12/13.0:1 comp ratio, it's on you, but the car is already ready to receive it since every other essential things are there as base for the upgrade. in... which i just recommend this rather than modders spending the hard earned money for stuff with 50% risk of actually eating away power. [/QUOTE]
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