Advise please: coating first or paint protection film first?

[KrisMas]

1) Do you still remember where you installed the Orafol Oraguard protection film? (or if you bought it and DIY, can tell me where you bought it?

I DIY. For the Oraguard I bought it from a seller in LYN and he also got an fb page up under the name of 3M scotchprint Malaysia distributor. The VS I also bought from him. He's in Melaka and should be easy to find if you search for him there. Nice fella and wonderful to deal with. The other one I bought was from a shop in Kepong. He did tell me about it being all equivalent with some 'well known' brands with additional advantage of having extra UV shield and all but, in the end, like all marketing talk most of it proves to be *BS*.

2) In your film removal process (I presume you DIY too), did you accidentally pull out some paint out of your panel? Some users and installers claim they have experience this before. But I guess yours is installed on OEM paint so this problem should be none (or perhaps I am wrong) ?

Yup, DIY too. Like I said before, removal for the VS was ok, the Oraguard was a little bit more tedious but the cheaper one...that one did take a little bit of the paint off. And yes, it's on OEM paint.

3) What is your preventive driving method? Stay away from the back of car driving in front of you?

Yeah...mostly that. Especially from heavy vehicles. I also tried not to follow ANY VEHICLE too close during rainy days as I noticed that water picked up by tyres on wet roads has high probability of containing sand/grits/etc.

Regarding DIY the 3M Venture Shield, I did contact with a guy whose company he works with has sell 3M Venture Shield. Maybe due to a lot of unreasonable customer coming back to complain or demand for touch up of the car wrap done in his company, his company current policy is prefer to sell roll of wrap (including 3M Venture Shield) than installing it. This person also suggested to me to DIY. But I am not confidence, as I never wrap anything on car before. I never knew how the material behave. And the tool they use, I guess is a simple plastic card (which I can get it easily using old credit card) and some common dish soup water (I guess), not hard to get. So what stops me is the workmanship of myself. But you said that the cost of the material is less than half of the quoted installation (I get quoted 1.2K for hood, 1.4k for front bumper for 3M VS), sound like a it is not too bad to buy extra material, test & train, then install for real.

I was quoted around RM600 for VS (material) only to cover the whole frond hood of my waja. Due to financial constraints at that time, I went for front portion of the hood only (I'd say around 1/3 of it) and cost me RM260.

Where and how do you self learn to install wrap DIY?

Youtube. And I also bought a little bit of those 'no brands' cheapo ones to practice on my scrap/test panel. The seller was also quite helpful in providing some guides & tips when I call/text him. But it took me more than a month to have the confidence to have it installed for real as it's an 'all or nothing' situation (financially) at that time. But when I did put it on, the VS was very much easier to install. I did it with the 3M squeege that I also bought from the seller (cost RM10), a hair dryer, a sprayer with water + a few drops of dishwashing detergent and a whole lot of patience. Slight horror right after finishing the install though as the surface beneath the film went hazy, but was comforted by the seller that it'll go away when it dried and that it did. Also got a few 'bubbles' but easily fixed with a needle. The front hood was easy. The difficult part was doing the bumper with lots of cutting and bending the edges (I did take most of the lights and fixture off). This is where the hair dryer come in handy. Took a little while to get used to it but after a few trials and errors, all was well (not 100% but I was quite satisfied with the outcome). Oh...and best thing about the VS is that you can re-do as many time as you want if as long as you keep the adhesive side wet. I think I still have some pictures of the end result somewhere....I'll try to look for them and post it *if* I found them.


The bounce-able paint is it PlastiDIP? but PlastiDIP is satin finish, something like matte color, and the surface not silky smooth like clear coat, it is rubber feeling. Do you remember his front bumper feel like this when touched by hand?

No, it's not the PlastiDip. Let me try and find some info online on them. I have a few cans of PlastiDip but haven't tried them on paint yet, only tried on interior plastics. Yes, they're not really 'clear' per se, sort of like hazy/opaque 'clear', and it has the 'smooth' rubber feel instead the smooth and silky paint/clear coat feel.

Oh...and please bare in mind ya...these are just my brief experiences with them and by no means reflects the general products representations. Just an end-user and a DIY-er brief 'experiments' and observations.....hehehe....

 

[s1tl]

RM4k+ for such a size and from primer till clear coat feels ok to me knowing that it was all Glasurit.

Nice ride you have! That little blue color on the side mirror also Glasurit blue?

Thanks a lot for the website link. Will contact them for more infor and quote of price.

You yourself as a detailer do not install the paint protection film on your ride, am I right?

hahaha but its a looong way job, the wait is killing. the side mirrors are Plasti Dip. and yea plastidip has a matte finish. Plastidip is similar to a paint but it has a rubbery texture to it, it will be able to absorb a level of stone chip damage and the paint will not chip, so far i have tested high speed and low speed on highways and I dont see even 1 stone chip on the entire frontal section of the car.

I just opened a Plastidipping centre in Ipoh, so i have to know what im selling and what plastidip can do. If you are keen in a satin matte finish you can try =D Even MyVi can do, so no problem.

oh btw, my car now

and if u are curious how a satin finish myvi would look like, i recently did a Powder Pink Myvi.

 

[KrisMas]

Here's what I found, I think this sounds a lot like what Darren was talking about:

Flexibilised polymer clearcoat lacquer

oh....and also found out that it's used on RRs & Bentleys....most definitely won't be asking around for pricing....hahahaha......

 

[s1tl]

Here's what I found, I think this sounds a lot like what Darren was talking about:

Flexibilised polymer clearcoat lacquer

oh....and also found out that it's used on RRs & Bentleys....most definitely won't be asking around for pricing....hahahaha......

Yup that clear coat is supposed to be self recovery, if any form of big scratch, after a while it will level itself and conceal the scratch, but doesnt seem to work for swirls.

 

[s1tl]

Usually if I want to change the hair style I will buy the cheap hair wigs at the online shop so that it will neither cost me a lot and I can reach the goal of change my hair style easily. And just a week before I bought one red wigs online and it makes me look better.

dude, whatcha sayin?

 

[scoutfai]

Usually if I want to change the hair style I will buy the cheap hair wigs at the online shop so that it will neither cost me a lot and I can reach the goal of change my hair style easily. And just a week before I bought one red wigs online and it makes me look better.

?!?! I believe I didn't talk about hair style at all, maybe a wrongly post?

 

[Izso]

spammer

 

[scoutfai]

For the wrap - don't DIY if you don't have any experience.

For Plastidip - it's satin finish if you don't clearcoat it. Plastidip has their own clear coat, you can pearlerize it or gold finish it, makes it nice and shiny or bling too. Not necessary to be matte / satin finish only.

Also once fully cured the touch is smooth, not quite rubbery. And the best part with Plastidip is it doesn't need polishing or waxing. Just only a soap wash.


Josh - daaaaaaaaamn you la.. Glasurit!! No wonder la! My clear coat sibeh jialat lehhh.. how to compare. Of course yours doesn't fade

But the spray can cover of the clear PlastiDIP is very rough to touch by finger. The can cover should represent the type of transparency level and the surface finish feeling, right? If that is right, then, hardly can say it is smooth to touch in my opinion. I mean if you compare with normal aerosol paint surface finish (of course not peel-able).

---------- Post added at 11:14 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:02 PM ----------

1) Do you still remember where you installed the Orafol Oraguard protection film? (or if you bought it and DIY, can tell me where you bought it?

I DIY. For the ....

Yours RM600 for 3M Venture Shield material enough for hood only, I get quoted (including installation) for full hood only is RM1200. I guess Myvi hood size is smaller than Waja. So I think material only for a full hood of Myvi should be less than RM600. Hence the labor and preparation process cost more than 100% of the material price of the 3M Venture Shield film.
Erm, does make a lot of sense to DIY for cost saving purpose. Workmanship is the key consideration.

I can practice on my mother's kancil first before on my own ride if I want DIY
LOL

---------- Post added at 11:29 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:14 PM ----------

hahaha but its a looong way job, the wait is killing. the side mirrors are Plasti Dip. and yea plastidip has a matte finish. Plastidip is ......

You are a multi-business guy.
Since you are a PlastiDIP painter, then may I ask you,
1) Do you think the PlastiDIP clear (not glossifier) surface finish is same as the touching feeling of the PlastiDIP aerosol can spray cap cover?
2) Does the transparency level of the PlastiDIP clear is same as the transparency level of the aerosol can spray cap cover?
3) Does PlastiDIP glossifier:
(a) as thick as the PlastiDIP clear ?
(b) transparency level much clearer than PlastiDIP clear but still not to the level of transparent 100% (like a normal aerosol clear spray paint) ?


I indeed has think before to buy few cans of PlastiDIP clear and spray it on front bumper as cheap option of rock chip protection. But I just do not know how obvious the transparency difference will be.

ah, thanks for sharing the pics of your new ride. So your Glasurit black paint is still underneath the PlastiDIP shown in the pics?

---------- Post added at 11:37 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:29 PM ----------

So far I have one person who is a pro-detailer supports to coat first then film later.

Anyone has a different thought?

 

[vr2turbo]

by the way, I would not recommend Opti-Coat 2.0 as it is totally a different product compared to Opti-Coat Pro. I have tested and double confirmed that after application of Opti-Coat 2.0 the colour tone will start to fade to a yellowish tone after a while which I dont think is a very good option. I used to provide service for applying Opti-Coat 2.0 but i stopped when i found out about this problem, fortunately I only sold to 1 gentleman which I after compensated with Opti-Coat Pro.

Fuyoh! Thanks for the confirmation. My friend who did on white car did mentioned it turn to yellow tint after a while. And another who use it to apply as protection on the plastic headlamps said it turn yellow faster, so is wrong application....

 

[s1tl]

Fuyoh! Thanks for the confirmation. My friend who did on white car did mentioned it turn to yellow tint after a while. And another who use it to apply as protection on the plastic headlamps said it turn yellow faster, so is wrong application....

hahahaha i long time tested it our already right, I also burn the coating with 80% alcohol before also ma.

You are a multi-business guy.
Since you are a PlastiDIP painter, then may I ask you,
1) Do you think the PlastiDIP clear (not glossifier) surface finish is same as the touching feeling of the PlastiDIP aerosol can spray cap cover?
2) Does the transparency level of the PlastiDIP clear is same as the transparency level of the aerosol can spray cap cover?
3) Does PlastiDIP glossifier:
(a) as thick as the PlastiDIP clear ?
(b) transparency level much clearer than PlastiDIP clear but still not to the level of transparent 100% (like a normal aerosol clear spray paint) ?


I indeed has think before to buy few cans of PlastiDIP clear and spray it on front bumper as cheap option of rock chip protection. But I just do not know how obvious the transparency difference will be.

ah, thanks for sharing the pics of your new ride. So your Glasurit black paint is still underneath the PlastiDIP shown in the pics?

yea kindof a multiple business guy, susah mau cari makan la bro, somemore here got major league sifu here destroying my repo. lagi hard so need more source of income lo...:sleep:

1. PlastiDip Clear is a Matte surface texture. kindof "leathery" if you are using from aerosol. The spray for Clear Dip from aerosol would require more product to be sprayed on the surface as the Clear Dip is thinner than all the colour based ones. I dont really understand you question of spraying onto what cover..but from guessing, im not sure if i got your question right, PlastiDip is had a totally different finishing from "Matte" normal aerosol sprays.

2. If you are asking about the transparency level. One photo will shows u. In this photo, Is a real carbon fibre surface, which is glossy, I sprayed on PlastiDip Clear, the matte it, I guess you can say the transparency level is good? Since you can still clearly see the weaving.

3. The Clear PlastiDip can be sprayed on any surface, and it will change the surface to a matte finish, while you cannot spray glossifier onto a bare surface, the surface must be PlastiDip to apply glossifier, Transparency level is good but the problem with glossifier is, it is not as glossy as normal clear coat paints. I would rate the glossiness of a glossifie-ed plastidip surface to have only...40-50% of gloss compared to a normal standard clear coat.

If you spray PlastiDip Clear to your front bumper, you would need to use at least 5-7cans, also another thing is, aerosol will not have perfect smooth finishing. If used wrongly, the surface will become very very kasar, like sand paper, actually, worst than sand paper. Its irriversable, only can peel and redo. Your entire bumper will also become Matte with your original paint, So if your base paint is silver, it will become Matte Silver.

Yes my Glasurit paint is under the plastidip now.