4G15p - can do something on this plant?

bimasakti

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bimasakti

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Guys, newbie here. i'm driving a wira se 1.5 (m). can anyone tell me how much power can push to limit for 4g15p? i'm not planning to do engine swap or slap on turbo (due to crazy fuel price nowadays :mad: ), but planning to bolt on some goodies such as performance air filter, volt stabilizer, spark plug power cable and iridium spark plugs. what do u think? is it worth to invest on those items? how better the performance?

2) also planning to change my suspension kit to lowered type. prefer lower60%+comfort40%. if budget not more than rm2k, which brand and type u guys recommend? :hmmmm:

3) what are the differences btween oil catch tank and fuel regulator? how does they works? sorry aa guys..maybe noob question..:adore:

thanks a lot!
 

papagoines

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papagoines

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I'm not otai...newbie oso...but some of the things you've mentioned; either I'm using it or my close friends did...so feel free to shoot me if I'm wrong :adore:

Guys, newbie here. i'm driving a wira se 1.5 (m). can anyone tell me how much power can push to limit for 4g15p? i'm not planning to do engine swap or slap on turbo (due to crazy fuel price nowadays :mad: ), but planning to bolt on some goodies such as performance air filter, volt stabilizer, spark plug power cable and iridium spark plugs. what do u think? is it worth to invest on those items? how better the performance?
  1. Go for exhaust upgrade first...meaning from extractor till end...sometime, noisier doesn't mean more power
  2. then go for open pod filter...but make sure it got heat shield (u can see and example here in my engine, the one around the yellow thingie and K&N Filter)so ur engine does not suck in hot air...if got Cold Air Intake (CAI) its better
  3. iridium spark plugs and power cables maybe gives a bit of power...but dun expect much
  4. voltage stabilizer..hmmm...been using those....as far as perfomance goes...small diff only...I've noticed only my headlamp are a bit brighter and my car stereo plays a bit better only
Other than that...you can always use lightweight crankpulley and if got money u can go for one of those reprofiled cam from powerzones,matspeed etc...and lastly...air fuel controller e.g. safc to tune air/fuel after you've done all to the mods...

2) also planning to change my suspension kit to lowered type. prefer lower60%+comfort40%. if budget not more than rm2k, which brand and type u guys recommend? :hmmmm:
Most brands offers what you want within the budget u specified...for me, am using GAB (kancil RM1300 full set)...and so far satisfied with it...try asking around

3) what are the differences btween oil catch tank and fuel regulator? how does they works? sorry aa guys..maybe noob question..:adore: thanks a lot!
Oil catch tank - to catch oil vapor from engine head to ur intake via ur PCV hose....you can find DIY tips here

As for Fuel pressure regulator, it regulates fuel pressure (dunno what PSI) to the fuel rail. All fuel injected car are equipped wif one, albeit it is set to a connstant pressure from factory...the aftermarket ones are adjusttable...usually used if you are running turbo (hi boost) and bigger or additional injectors...in term of your query...dun think its useful, better get ur air/fuel mixture tuned instead

That's what I know...let's wait for the real sifus to give their multimillion 2 sen :adore:

FYI,
 

hoxy

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hoxy

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Guys, newbie here. i'm driving a wira se 1.5 (m). can anyone tell me how much power can push to limit for 4g15p? i'm not planning to do engine swap or slap on turbo (due to crazy fuel price nowadays :mad: ), but planning to bolt on some goodies such as performance air filter, volt stabilizer, spark plug power cable and iridium spark plugs. what do u think? is it worth to invest on those items? how better the performance?

2) also planning to change my suspension kit to lowered type. prefer lower60%+comfort40%. if budget not more than rm2k, which brand and type u guys recommend? :hmmmm:

3) what are the differences btween oil catch tank and fuel regulator? how does they works? sorry aa guys..maybe noob question..:adore:

thanks a lot!

I use same car as you. Basically if you press gear two or three there is a lag in throttle response. Iridium spark plug will help this problem, I chose heat range 5 Denso. Definitely you need to de-cat. Dont put performance plug cable, I think no difference and it interrupts with your sound system. If you want it, I have those plug cable bought from GTR, the RAM 10mm Quadcore performance cable and Stromberg. Here is the link //www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...dcore-plug-cable-stromberg-power-booster.html

haha... advertising a bit... but honestly, dont buy performance plug cable, waste of money, for looks, sure cun.
 

ken12292703

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ken12292703

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Guys, newbie here. i'm driving a wira se 1.5 (m). can anyone tell me how much power can push to limit for 4g15p? i'm not planning to do engine swap or slap on turbo (due to crazy fuel price nowadays :mad: ), but planning to bolt on some goodies such as performance air filter, volt stabilizer, spark plug power cable and iridium spark plugs. what do u think? is it worth to invest on those items? how better the performance?

2) also planning to change my suspension kit to lowered type. prefer lower60%+comfort40%. if budget not more than rm2k, which brand and type u guys recommend? :hmmmm:

3) what are the differences btween oil catch tank and fuel regulator? how does they works? sorry aa guys..maybe noob question..:adore:

thanks a lot!

Hi bro, if i were you. :biggrin: I will go slowly.

Like siifoo papagoines said, AIR FILTER + COLD AIR INTAKE + FULL EXHAUST

Then i will look for a set of 15 INCHES LIGHTWEIGHT WHEELS and throw all my unwanted items off. Those which needed don't throw la.

I will choose sport springs + OEM absorbers instead of adjustable absorbers. I believe that's your daily driven car, go for chassis reinforcement bar would be appropriate.

Spark plugs won't give much difference in terms of power. Keep it for later plans.

If yours a manual transmission, go for a lightweight flywheel. This is a bang for bucks modification, you can feel the difference in response. It won't increase your engine's power but decrease the momentum build up time.

Adding all up, example CAMS + SAFC + etc etc = engine transplant :rofl:

Stick to a limit, beyond that, better plan for a transplant now. :biggrin:

Just my 1 cent :rofl:
 

papagoines

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papagoines

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Like siifoo papagoines said, AIR FILTER + COLD AIR INTAKE + FULL EXHAUST
dun like that la...i'm still learning lor...kang marah real sifus of zth nanti :bawling: :adore:

Then i will look for a set of 15 INCHES LIGHTWEIGHT WHEELS and throw all my unwanted items off. Those which needed don't throw la.
Forgot abt dis....most of my WiSE frens just swap those 16" for 15" 2nd hand frm japan and downgrade from 205 series to 195 series tires...keeps ur car lighter...accelerate better + better FC...
 

ken12292703

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ken12292703

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dun like that la...i'm still learning lor...kang marah real sifus of zth nanti :bawling: :adore:


Forgot abt dis....most of my WiSE frens just swap those 16" for 15" 2nd hand frm japan and downgrade from 205 series to 195 series tires...keeps ur car lighter...accelerate better + better FC...

You sifoo also, don't hide hide la. :adore:

Sifoo here very good one. Don't worry :rofl:

I scared also la. :burnout:Run~
 

boyzone

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boyzone

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go to engine balancing, performance clucth set and flywheel if budget allowed. :biggrin:
 

bimasakti

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bimasakti

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waa thanks a lot guys.. :adore: not expect that gonna be too much to consider. i'm totally new in car modding.. by the way, thanks again.
 

papagoines

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papagoines

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You sifoo also, don't hide hide la. :adore:

Sifoo here very good one. Don't worry :rofl:

I scared also la. :burnout:Run~
Wait for me!!!! :burnout:

go to engine balancing, performance clucth set and flywheel if budget allowed. :biggrin:
:hmmmm: curious though...how much is it to do engine balancing/blueprinting?...if too much the ringgit/hp cost...better he go for transplant rite?

waa thanks a lot guys.. :adore: not expect that gonna be too much to consider. i'm totally new in car modding.. by the way, thanks again.
maybe u should stick to bolt on like filters and exhaust...save ur money for later mods like a turbo kit or better yet full transplant to Mivec or GSR like master ken12292703 sez
 

tofu_manic

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tofu_manic

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bimasakti, actually for the moment, u dont really have to upgrade ur ignition yet (e.g. cables, plugs, coil) as ur engine is still stock...wont make a worthwhile difference...stock ignition is sufficient...unless ur ori one is already wearing out la hehe

if i were u i wud go for a K&N drop-in filter element (or anything similar, UTR ka etc. etc.) as u dunneed to worry about sucking in hot air edi, unless u wanna spend more to get a heatshield for your open pod, etc. etc.,

u can get freer flowing exhaust by increasing slightly the piping size to around 1.7 - 1.8 internal diameter following ori route and de-catting (the original header is a good one, for the time being dunneed change, proven to increase a coupla hps at around 3xxx-5xxx rpm by dyno, on a stock non-SE wira 4g15, if i remember correctly)

as had been suggested earlier, a lightened crank pulley from mythelogy (as this is the only model that wud work on ur car, i think), flywheel lightening and balancing...and get smaller 15 inch rims...at least these mods wont break ur bank (other than the rims, mebbe) and will make driving more fun hehe

internals are a whole different story already...and prepare a lot more cash for that...whacking at least 150 horses is not impossible...if u want to la...there are ppl who would push their ori engines to see just how far the small powerplant can go...

btw, here is a stroker kit mod for you, requires full overhaul duh heheheheh
//www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...necting-rod-and-crankshaft-waja-for-sale.html
increased low-end torque and stronger mid-range rpm, very worthwhile mod this one hehehe

im using a carbed version 4g15, non-SE so i dunno much about the wira SE's piping size, details and so on, if anything incorrect or irrelevant, please correct me hehehe

happy modding!

p.s. got many similar threads like these in zth, can find out more stuffs from there as well
 
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bimasakti

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bimasakti

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papagoines,

Go for exhaust upgrade first...meaning from extractor till end...sometime, noisier doesn't mean more power
what i know is 4-1 extractor is better from 4-2-1 type..is that true? anyone can explain.. :hmmmm:

then go for open pod filter...but make sure it got heat shield (u can see and example here in my engine, the one around the yellow thingie and K&N Filter)so ur engine does not suck in hot air...if got Cold Air Intake (CAI) its better
have heard also that some types of open pod filter need to change/refill their filter sponge (apexi, hks or k&n maybe?). is there any pros n cons?

hoxy,

Basically if you press gear two or three there is a lag in throttle response. Iridium spark plug will help this problem, I chose heat range 5 Denso. Definitely you need to de-cat.
yaa youre correct, theres a lag in throttle response in gear 2 or 3. err..what is de-cat means actually..:adore:

ken12292703,

I will choose sport springs + OEM absorbers instead of adjustable absorbers. I believe that's your daily driven car, go for chassis reinforcement bar would be appropriate.
will the combination of sport springs + OEM absorbers will effect tear&wear of bushings or something? if doesnt..hmm will thinking this option. quite save rm..:burnout:

GT auto,

light tune should be enough for daily driven car.
yes, this is my daily ride and not expect too much on top speed.. just wanna improve my traffic lights run, a bit power la.. :rofl:
 

bimasakti

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bimasakti

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err..maybe some of above question already answered by tofu manic. sorry for overlooked..hehe:biggrin:

bimasakti, actually for the moment, u dont really have to upgrade ur ignition yet (e.g. cables, plugs, coil) as ur engine is still stock...wont make a worthwhile difference...stock ignition is sufficient...unless ur ori one is already wearing out la hehe

if i were u i wud go for a K&N drop-in filter element (or anything similar, UTR ka etc. etc.) as u dunneed to worry about sucking in hot air edi, unless u wanna spend more to get a heatshield for your open pod, etc. etc.,

u can get freer flowing exhaust by increasing slightly the piping size to around 1.7 - 1.8 internal diameter following ori route and de-catting (the original header is a good one, for the time being dunneed change, proven to increase a coupla hps at around 3xxx-5xxx rpm by dyno, on a stock non-SE wira 4g15, if i remember correctly)

as had been suggested earlier, a lightened crank pulley from mythelogy (as this is the only model that wud work on ur car, i think), flywheel lightening and balancing...and get smaller 15 inch rims...at least these mods wont break ur bank (other than the rims, mebbe) and will make driving more fun hehe

internals are a whole different story already...and prepare a lot more cash for that...whacking at least 150 horses is not impossible...if u want to la...there are ppl who would push their ori engines to see just how far the small powerplant can go...
ooo i see..mybe forgot to mention, that my ride currently is 4 months old from the register date..so everythings still fresh (or maybe not, after long sun-bathing at glenmarie proton's depot store). hmm but now i get some bigger picture.. thanks guys!! :burnout:
 

seanlee

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if you are looking for daily use...and just for the pick on the traffic light..

this seeting shuold be nice....

1)4-2-1 extrator (if you are original Wira SE it come with good Mendrel bent extrator been improve and dyno proven from my friend car Low rpm to mid power)
if you wan to use 4-1 extrator is not recomend due to respond start at 3k rpm above you need to high rev it....Sohc engine does not build for high rev..is build for low rev only...

2) get a 1.6 clutch set with lighten flywheel (normally people will lighten is to same wegiht of 1.5 clutch set...but then have to lighten more again..for lither then 1.5 clutch set.

3) lighten crank pulley install for siemens car.

4) get your car for port and polish and skim the head not more then 1mm for daily use...if not you will face overheating problem.

5) wira Se original piping is 1.75" mendrel bent and very smooth air flow good enuff and yet mendrel bent piping ain cheap..also it produce good power...
if your car doen not comes with mendrel bent...get yourself a 2" piping internal should be 1.78 or 1.8" depend on the thickness of the piping.

6) do not use OPen pod for siemens wira 1.5 you will face loosing torque .... stick back the box use K&N , UTR or others high performance high flow filter.

7) Cam degree...get 262,265 or 268....this is from MAtspeed for siemens car..do not go over 27x degree...you will facing idle problem which can`t solve in siemens ecu..

8)spark plug, you can use CAmpro engine spark plug is smooth enuff ..no need get those irridium...those actually for longer life span.. honest speaking..

9) suspension got many type..if normal daily use not racing or anything..get a ready make sport spring and must goes with sport absorber....

any infor need to add? you guy can add..hahaha:thefinger:
 

papagoines

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papagoines

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if you are looking for daily use...and just for the pick on the traffic light..

this seeting shuold be nice....

1)4-2-1 extrator (if you are original Wira SE it come with good Mendrel bent extrator been improve and dyno proven from my friend car Low rpm to mid power)
if you wan to use 4-1 extrator is not recomend due to respond start at 3k rpm above you need to high rev it....Sohc engine does not build for high rev..is build for low rev only...

2) get a 1.6 clutch set with lighten flywheel (normally people will lighten is to same wegiht of 1.5 clutch set...but then have to lighten more again..for lither then 1.5 clutch set.

3) lighten crank pulley install for siemens car.

4) get your car for port and polish and skim the head not more then 1mm for daily use...if not you will face overheating problem.

5) wira Se original piping is 1.75" mendrel bent and very smooth air flow good enuff and yet mendrel bent piping ain cheap..also it produce good power...
if your car doen not comes with mendrel bent...get yourself a 2" piping internal should be 1.78 or 1.8" depend on the thickness of the piping.

6) do not use OPen pod for siemens wira 1.5 you will face loosing torque .... stick back the box use K&N , UTR or others high performance high flow filter.

7) Cam degree...get 262,265 or 268....this is from MAtspeed for siemens car..do not go over 27x degree...you will facing idle problem which can`t solve in siemens ecu..

8)spark plug, you can use CAmpro engine spark plug is smooth enuff ..no need get those irridium...those actually for longer life span.. honest speaking..

9) suspension got many type..if normal daily use not racing or anything..get a ready make sport spring and must goes with sport absorber....

any infor need to add? you guy can add..hahaha:thefinger:
nicely put....

by the way sean...read ur mod page... :adore: :biggrin: :adore:
 

biz-da-tech

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biz-da-tech

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guys actually me and this guys also start mod from everything new :P,

im using 4g13p SOHC. i guess im using mitsu ecu.

mayb he see this mayb this could help him and me.

here my mod done.

4x2x1 extrator and bullet [shot type] {cap ayam}
and den small size exhaust [smaller den the arospeed exhauster]

and cam pulley adjustable arospeed

spark plugs and spark cable [both item around 100Rm]

and tunning cam adjustable.

after tunning, and the mech told me that they cant tune to the fine max tunning. because got knocking sound. fuel not enuff supply,

and he recommended me fuel regulator, so i just ask around a 1 to 3 mech. 1 told me fuel regulator will fix, and 2 told me fuel pump.. so i wonder which 1 is the best to fix my knocking sound?

[my style is save gas and fast :P] means that i dont want mod it and it eat more... so far all those mod i made. it give me safe a bit gasoline.

so all sifu... which 1 will fix :) and ya also before change my car hit once 180km/h only extrator and bullet. but now close 140km/h my car drag SO LONG to 160km/h and it canot more den that anymore....

any help for my car can fast go to 160 to 170 at lease and max is 180km/h ...
 

Northiswara

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Northiswara

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my 2 cents opinion for 4g15p.

1. hantam in 4g13 head then u get 0.3 more compression. around 0.3 if not mistaken.

2. hantam in aggressive camshaft. i think power zone got. or go matspeed.

3. hantam in 1.6 stroker kit from powerzone then u have 1.6 cc.

4. hantam in 4-2-1 extractor.

5. throw ur mid mufler and rear mufler. hantam in a nice bullet and performance muffler.

6. hantam in iridium spark plug.

7. get ur head to port and polish.

8. upgrade the valve spring.

9. hantam in weber carburator if u are carb engine. if EFI then hantam in more power fuel pump, bigger injector and tune with SAFC NEO or other piggy back ecu.

10. hantam in open pod.

11. hantam in bigger TB.

12. change ur cam pulley to lighter one.

13. upgrade to semi racing clutch or hantam in GSR flywheel and clutch system.

u will get at least 144whp with above setup. cozs there is a 4g15p with almost similar setup as above and get 140++ whp.

14. hantam in NOS if u are using EFI then u can get 160-180whp then u can tapau vtec.
 

Northiswara

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Northiswara

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bro,
change to mivec engine easy larr. no need to dismantle and change this and that to ur engine. moreover 4g15p block canot tahan extreme modification.
later overheat or crack susah.
 

biz-da-tech

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biz-da-tech

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i dont he and me will do that much la haha

if really do that much to the max. i gues rather change engine like everybody said.

for me also is like mid range type. cuz everything mod just not touchin the internal engine mod. cuz so far i can see my performance is really alot. well of coz la not satisfaction wit my 1.3 haha :) 1.5 i dunno mayb he will.

so any1 still got any idea of mine? the knockin sound :X
 

Northiswara

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Northiswara

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use adjustable fuel regulator cheaper lorr.
less fuel supply will cause knock cozs fuel can cool down the engine. turbo car run on richer fuel to cool down engine.

then use safc neo got color screen to tune again.
 

ken12292703

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ken12292703

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guys actually me and this guys also start mod from everything new :P,

im using 4g13p SOHC. i guess im using mitsu ecu.

mayb he see this mayb this could help him and me.

here my mod done.

4x2x1 extrator and bullet [shot type] {cap ayam}
and den small size exhaust [smaller den the arospeed exhauster]

and cam pulley adjustable arospeed

spark plugs and spark cable [both item around 100Rm]

and tunning cam adjustable.

after tunning, and the mech told me that they cant tune to the fine max tunning. because got knocking sound. fuel not enuff supply,

and he recommended me fuel regulator, so i just ask around a 1 to 3 mech. 1 told me fuel regulator will fix, and 2 told me fuel pump.. so i wonder which 1 is the best to fix my knocking sound?

[my style is save gas and fast :P] means that i dont want mod it and it eat more... so far all those mod i made. it give me safe a bit gasoline.

so all sifu... which 1 will fix :) and ya also before change my car hit once 180km/h only extrator and bullet. but now close 140km/h my car drag SO LONG to 160km/h and it canot more den that anymore....

any help for my car can fast go to 160 to 170 at lease and max is 180km/h ...

Choose between an adjustable regulator and pump? I would choose both of them.

After changin to a higher LPH pump, pressure shots up. You need an adjustable regulator to fine tune your pressure. Just my 1 cent, correct me if wrong. :biggrin:
 

ken12292703

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ken12292703

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my 2 cents opinion for 4g15p.

1. hantam in 4g13 head then u get 0.3 more compression. around 0.3 if not mistaken.

2. hantam in aggressive camshaft. i think power zone got. or go matspeed.

3. hantam in 1.6 stroker kit from powerzone then u have 1.6 cc.

4. hantam in 4-2-1 extractor.

5. throw ur mid mufler and rear mufler. hantam in a nice bullet and performance muffler.

6. hantam in iridium spark plug.

7. get ur head to port and polish.

8. upgrade the valve spring.

9. hantam in weber carburator if u are carb engine. if EFI then hantam in more power fuel pump, bigger injector and tune with SAFC NEO or other piggy back ecu.

10. hantam in open pod.

11. hantam in bigger TB.

12. change ur cam pulley to lighter one.

13. upgrade to semi racing clutch or hantam in GSR flywheel and clutch system.

u will get at least 144whp with above setup. cozs there is a 4g15p with almost similar setup as above and get 140++ whp.

14. hantam in NOS if u are using EFI then u can get 160-180whp then u can tapau vtec.

Wow bro, hamtam here and there pengsan already. :adore:

Don't torture that virgin la. :rofl:
 

Northiswara

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Northiswara

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Wow bro, hamtam here and there pengsan already.

Don't torture that virgin la.
soli bro. no torture no power many many.
need torture it til high high compression then can release more power.

or else i recommend u install 4g91 dohc 1.5 which is fuel saving engine. power also not bad. price also cheaper than mivec.
 

tofu_manic

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tofu_manic

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northiswara...the powerzone one is 14x hp at flywheel la hehe..plus his car is not using an aggressive cam, its a 264 degree onli...

fyi a 4g15'ed car with a stroker kit does not go well with extreme large duration cams, the 2 mods dont complement each other well...the large duration racing cam will make power high up in the powerband while the stroked kit will make the lower to mid range of the powerband fatter; the powerband starts earlier, but ends earlier as well...to make most power, all mods hafta be making power at the same 'sweet spot' on the powerband...generally this is the case lah...

IMO, rather than get 4g13 head, cheaper to just skim off the 4g15 engine head a little bit...

valve springs also hafta match the cam...mix and match is a bit risky plus it is difficult to find, unless u get from RPW...

modding the above as u mentioned will raise the temp, but not so much...dun 4get, u hafta upgrade the cooling system as well...change to a larger or a twincore radiator, upgrade radiator cap pressure, from a 0.9kg/m to a 1.1kg/m...ur radiator, assuming it is in good condition will be able to take it....overheating is not a problem, unless you are running lean la haha

one important mod u 4got to mention is balancing and blueprinting...if cant afford at least do the balancing...important if u change to the stroker kit as ori balance most prolly thrown out the window when u change the crank, conrod and pistons...so dun hafta worry about block cracking oso...
 
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tofu_manic

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tofu_manic

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Jan 11, 2007
1,342
91
1,648
guys actually me and this guys also start mod from everything new :P,

after tunning, and the mech told me that they cant tune to the fine max tunning. because got knocking sound. fuel not enuff supply,

and he recommended me fuel regulator, so i just ask around a 1 to 3 mech. 1 told me fuel regulator will fix, and 2 told me fuel pump.. so i wonder which 1 is the best to fix my knocking sound?

[my style is save gas and fast :P] means that i dont want mod it and it eat more... so far all those mod i made. it give me safe a bit gasoline.

so all sifu... which 1 will fix :) and ya also before change my car hit once 180km/h only extrator and bullet. but now close 140km/h my car drag SO LONG to 160km/h and it canot more den that anymore....
IMO, the fuel pump is still sufficient, as u haf not done any major mods yet requiring more fuel to be pumped in (e.g.bigger pistons, wilder cam etc)

for the time being u shud retard ur ignition timing a little bit, see how that helps...im guessing urs is advanced quite a lot...fyi, it dusnt mean the more advance the timing is, the more power ur engine is going to make...sometimes retarding it a bit will give better power...

biz da tech, i think ur mech may have advanced ur cam pulley a bit too much, ur pickup is there but ur top speed is sacrificed...cant have both...

get a lightened crank pulley, ur car will be torkier, and depending on how you drive, u may be able to save summore fuel as it takes less pedal pressure to get the car up to the same speed as b4...
 
Last edited:

Northiswara

2,000 RPM
Senior Member

Northiswara

2,000 RPM
Senior Member
Dec 21, 2005
2,589
7
1,638
Choose between an adjustable regulator and pump? I would choose both of them.

After changin to a higher LPH pump, pressure shots up. You need an adjustable regulator to fine tune your pressure. Just my 1 cent, correct me if wrong.
i think u can use the piggy back ecu to control and tune this. safc neo, wat else? forgot the name already. motec? haltech?