22ple Coating : First Brand New Unregistered Honda Civic
- Thread starter s1tl
- Start date
okay as per request by someone to burn optimum coating. here you go
10cc of Opti-Guard and 10cc of Opti-Coat 2.0, these fragments has been crystallized into solids for 6 months already. Note the difference in colour and the shape.
5cc of pure IPA on each cap and BUUURN!
Opti-Coat 2.0 in burning
Opti-Guard Burning
After burn results
I find that the fragments are slightly more brittle than before burning and also after burning the sized shrinked abit too. Lastly If my observation is correct, the some smaller pieces of fragments had been incinerated.
10cc of Opti-Guard and 10cc of Opti-Coat 2.0, these fragments has been crystallized into solids for 6 months already. Note the difference in colour and the shape.
5cc of pure IPA on each cap and BUUURN!
Opti-Coat 2.0 in burning
Opti-Guard Burning
After burn results
I find that the fragments are slightly more brittle than before burning and also after burning the sized shrinked abit too. Lastly If my observation is correct, the some smaller pieces of fragments had been incinerated.
- Apr 1, 2008
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Question: The OC 2.0 looks a tad yellowish from the picture there. Is the camera playing tricks with the colour or does it really look that way? Was it like that six months ago or did it turn like that over the past six month?
This is really getting interesting.......
This is really getting interesting.......
Is that all that's remaining from 10ml? So much product loss from alcohol (or what Dr. G will say...solvent) before the coat dries up. Imagine if you only apply a thin layer on the paint then buff that layer off...what's left on the surface must be super wafer thin :hmmmm2:
---------- Post added at 12:34 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:32 AM ----------
---------- Post added at 12:34 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:32 AM ----------
Has anyone tested this on a white car to see if the coating in question will change the paint colour to slightly yellowish? This is not the first time I see this...remember Meguiar's M188? Now that's a disaster!
Isn't it suppose to be super thin layer? Thicker may streak right, harder to handle?
- Apr 1, 2008
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Really ah...???!!!
Hehehe...no need to do that la. That'll be just a gimmick like in those TV commercials. Even for the above test I also have some reservations (until I've done some more reading/testing myself or somebody can explain to me in more details). Pouring alcohol onto a surface and setting it on fire would only burn the alcohol that's evaporting ABOVE the surface. The temperature generated on the surface itself is nowhere near the temperature of the flame. Best test would be to burn the thing from the bottom....like cooking it...hahahah...
Discussion/rebutment is welcome....
Er... why burn the coating? Paint would never be that hot right? No purpose right but just being curious?
Yes the OC2 bits looks a bit yellowish. Did remember reading somewhere there was a batch of OC2 which had a yellow tinge caused by some leaching from the plastic syringe. My OC2 left about ~7ml gelling up after ~2 years. Did not see any visible yellow tinge at all. Was easy to apply when it was new but about two months back, tried applying it and caused streaks and uneven application and did not level. Did not know what happen then as it did seem still viscous but after seeing it gelling up recently now I know why.
Yes the OC2 bits looks a bit yellowish. Did remember reading somewhere there was a batch of OC2 which had a yellow tinge caused by some leaching from the plastic syringe. My OC2 left about ~7ml gelling up after ~2 years. Did not see any visible yellow tinge at all. Was easy to apply when it was new but about two months back, tried applying it and caused streaks and uneven application and did not level. Did not know what happen then as it did seem still viscous but after seeing it gelling up recently now I know why.
- Apr 1, 2008
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You sound confused....I hope you understand that (by cooking) I was refering to those cured samples and not the car....
Yes a better test should be cooking it or using a butane torch straight to it, but I think that temp is a touch bit too high. Googling showed that a blow torch flame at 1600C and the melting point of sio2 is 1600 to 1725C. But since our coatings aren't 100% siO2 anybody want to try? But what does the test reveal, it just reveals that the more Sio2 the product has the higher the melting temp will be until its 100% sio2 which will melt at 1600C. So if you cook it and it starts to burn, you know it doesn't have alot of sio2. That is presuming 22PLE is using sio2.
At the end of the day what does it really matter? If the coating looks good and is easy to apply and you are happy with it so be it lah.
Any coating sure water mark, it will sure get mirco marring still, and stain (just a matter of more or less), so I don't see the big fuss. I really doubt that coatings can stand up to mirco marring because the dust and sand we get on the car remember is made of quartz as well and other stuff like brake dust etc etc and is of similar hardness or higher. Even your windscreen can get scratches and micro marring and that's pretty hard glass as you need cerium oxide to do glass correction and anybody has tried to do glass correction, its damn hard as the glass is so damn hard.
So in the end I don't really bother about all these test, as long as its easy to use, and minimizes, maintenance, looks good, and solves my problems associated with my paint and my type of colour on that particular car I don't care who makes it or what its made of I'll buy it and use it.
Since we are talking 22PLE here I haven't tried it but would like to try it, just based on the looks and easy of use.
Wah! you guys playing with fire?.....
You go and blow torch the coating, even if survive the paint underneath will be cook.....:dong:
You go and blow torch the coating, even if survive the paint underneath will be cook.....:dong:
- Apr 1, 2008
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s1tl, you're going to blow torch your car???!!! This I gotta see....hahaha.....Wah! you guys playing with fire?.....
You go and blow torch the coating, even if survive the paint underneath will be cook.....:dong:
If you really want to do it no need for a blow torch la....just put them onto some pan or something and fry/cook them on the stove at low flame, or just chuck them into the oven (but, of course, not the microwave one)...hehehe....that should separate the actual raw material from their bonding medium.....me think la....
Yah agree that it will be fun lah@jonlsl...SPOILSPORTBut I think you'd have to agree with me on one thing though: IT'S ONE HELL OF A FUN THING TO DO/SEE, especially when we get to play around with fire....HAHAHAHA......
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