Re: Photoes of engine internals
Can't see the pitting but i'm sure when you were burning oil, it can cause some detonation. How bout those flaky white stuffs i see on the piston? Are those sand? or are those just light reflections? coz initially i thought some sand or debris went into your motor coz you weren't running a filter on..
added: I envy this motor, the sleeves on the coolant passage are free of rust and damn clean. Look at mine hahaha... how do you clean it from rust anyway? any quick way?
The pitting is on the carbon itself, you can see that at some points, they were becoming a little 'shiney' ha ha. that's the white spots you mentioned, reflections of those shiney parts from the light.
As for the coolant passages
I didn't clean it. I just flushed it pretty often, once a year. I did wash it before I installed in into the engine, but the brownish stain was still there. Kinda good to see that regular flushing did help clean it somewhat.
My conconction for my coolant, filtered RO water with Motul Inugel coolant... :stupid:
The reason for it is because the contaminants in tap water, it's just something my friend recommended I do, and I've been doing it since. Guess it was a good tip.
About the piston damage
Strange, for me, mostly I see piston 1 taking the beating, not the third.
Perhaps it's due to the sequence how the valve lash was done?
ha ha.
Perhaps one valve lash was looser than the others :P
Seriously, those valve lash measurement can really go out of whack after a while, but it seems no one else cares about it.
AFAIK, honda recommends it being done once in a while in their workshop manual (forgot the mileage they mentioned)
Then there's also loose valve guides, which causes the valves to rock at high rpm, heating the guide, and seizing the valves. Have anyone checked your valve guides for roundness and it being not more than 5mm wide?
Supposed to measure cam and pieces that hold the cam for clearances too, should be less than 1mm wear from stock (forgot stock measurement w/o looking at manual, don't really need to remember though, just remember the plastigage isn't suppose to be extremely wide after you torque the pieces that hold the cam.
I'm amazed how ppl can get away with such things without measuring when building high hp engines :P
But some of the pictures, well, most of them seems to be valve to piston contact, except for that B20B SFL posted, which looks like pre-ignition, because it appears that the hole made was slightly melted, at least to me.