- Mar 15, 2006
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guys what is the best way to increase compress ratio? factory standard is 10.5.1 if mod to higher how high can go? What is need to that higher ratio?
skim ur cylinder headguys what is the best way to increase compress ratio? factory standard is 10.5.1 if mod to higher how high can go? What is need to that higher ratio?
on bikes you can skim the lower part of yur block.is there any other way beside skim cylinder head?
Thinner head gaskets or High-comp pistons... what car do you drive again? Haha sorry weih I wasnt following this threadis there any other way beside skim cylinder head?
He drives a waja i think, btw high comp pistons will cost alot of money & will be disastrous if not properly tuned. eg. my fren's Civic which engine is nuked, comp too high, original crank can't take it, piston shot through crankcase, oil everywhere & left my fren heartbroken the engine was a Type R civic 1.6 head/integra 1.8 block hybrid.Thinner head gaskets or High-comp pistons... what car do you drive again? Haha sorry weih I wasnt following this thread
True true... I never said anything bout it being cheap nor easy , he did just ask how anyway haha.He drives a waja i think, btw high comp pistons will cost alot of money & will be disastrous if not properly tuned. eg. my fren's Civic which engine is nuked, comp too high, original crank can't take it, piston shot through crankcase, oil everywhere & left my fren heartbroken the engine was a Type R civic 1.6 head/integra 1.8 block hybrid.
Yeah agree, NA tuning is meant for track. The higher the tune stage the worse to drive on the road. All the power is at the top-end, for normal driving we want low-mid end power. Unless the driver is crazy & go roaring everywhere only shifting at 7,500rpm. I've once tuned my SEG with 20v 4A-GE to almost 200hp (just estimation), with individual airfilter kit for all 4 throttle, high lift 288 cams & pulley, 4-1 not very road legal exhaust, lightened flywheel, forged pistons & cranks, ported head & dual plate clutch & its a nightmare to drive on the road. The engine idles like its out of breath, combine that with a 2 plate clutch its very frustrating to drive in stop & go traffic. The power is all at the top-end i need to rev up above 4,000rpm for any power. After a few months i couldn't stand it & de-tune it to better suit normal driving.True true... I never said anything bout it being cheap nor easy , he did just ask how anyway haha.
But if you ask me IMO theres no point to change pistons for a daily drive lah, I mean how fast can you pickup in an urban area? Minor mods to me are just nice for daily usage haha
Hmm... I see I see, would it be the same with carb's though? Im thinking of running twin weber's on my car at the end of the year or something, hahaYeah agree, NA tuning is meant for track. The higher the tune stage the worse to drive on the road. All the power is at the top-end, for normal driving we want low-mid end power. Unless the driver is crazy & go roaring everywhere only shifting at 7,500rpm. I've once tuned my SEG with 20v 4A-GE to almost 200hp (just estimation), with individual airfilter kit for all 4 throttle, high lift 288 cams & pulley, 4-1 not very road legal exhaust, lightened flywheel, forged pistons & cranks, ported head & dual plate clutch & its a nightmare to drive on the road. The engine idles like its out of breath, combine that with a 2 plate clutch its very frustrating to drive in stop & go traffic. The power is all at the top-end i need to rev up above 4,000rpm for any power. After a few months i couldn't stand it & de-tune it to better suit normal driving.
Thanks, carbs are easier to tune than EFI, if ur going 4 twin weber the biggest improvement you'll feel is throttle response. Unlike EFI which is more flexible as you can map the ECU to ur liking, carbs are fixed, u can only tune them to perform at one specific area. If you focus on top-end with carbs, low rpm performance will be very bad, making it difficult to drive. If u tune carbs for low-end, ur car will run out of breath around halfway across ur rev range. IMO its best to focus on mid-range (3,000-5,000rpm) its where carbs really shine. Might not gain much in terms of max HP, but powerband will be broader & overall better to drive. Mind you twin weber's are quite thirsty, and it works best with twin individual air filter as this will further improve throttle response which is the biggest advantage of carbs.Hmm... I see I see, would it be the same with carb's though? Im thinking of running twin weber's on my car at the end of the year or something, haha
Oh and welcome to ZTH also :P
Aite taiko, thanks so much for the info haha. The thirsty part I do know already though... huhu. Theres no such thing as adding power and gaining mileageThanks, carbs are easier to tune than EFI, if ur going 4 twin weber the biggest improvement you'll feel is throttle response. Unlike EFI which is more flexible as you can map the ECU to ur liking, carbs are fixed, u can only tune them to perform at one specific area. If you focus on top-end with carbs, low rpm performance will be very bad, making it difficult to drive. If u tune carbs for low-end, ur car will run out of breath around halfway across ur rev range. IMO its best to focus on mid-range (3,000-5,000rpm) its where carbs really shine. Might not gain much in terms of max HP, but powerband will be broader & overall better to drive. Mind you twin weber's are quite thirsty, and it works best with twin individual air filter as this will further improve throttle response which is the biggest advantage of carbs.
you loss money and hp.Alot of people know to make more HP is more fuel + more Air = more HP
If say my standard injector is 150cc per cylinderand if i upgrade to 170cc per cylinder what is the benefit i gain? and what i loss?
that auto gbox will be yur greatest limit!how much it cost to add on turbo kit to the stock 1.6 waja auto...?
how much the increase of power...?
can somebody help me...