DIY - 'Magnetrap' - Oil Filter Magnet

If we change the oil filter frequently and don't delay the service interval, I guess not much metal impurities will go though the filter. My 2 cents..
 
Drain plug metal filing stick to it is good, then can clear them out, but necessary for the oil filter? Isn't the filter suppose to do the job?
I put them on both location. No metal pieces on eo oil drain plug, more of a metal dust but inside the pry open air filter(God knows how hard is it to manually cut the air filter in half using steel cutter), there are mixture of tiny sand and metal dust.
I forget to mentioned, I have done it on gearbox too. Guess what, thick yellowish metal dust on transmission fluid drain plug. Must be my sister changing gear without fully engage the
clutch :banghead:.

If we change the oil filter frequently and don't delay the service interval, I guess not much metal impurities will go though the filter. My 2 cents..
More aye and less nay :biggrin:.
Yes : As the material of eo will degrade and become less effective after certain usage / period, service on time will avoid the build up of metal impurities inside. Reason for 5k - 10k service interval depend on eo type. Being a lousy driver, I usually change eo about 0.5k earlier from the service interval.
Nay : Most of the damage to the engine part happened during cold start where the cylinder, piston and whatever moving inside are not properly lubricated yet. Reason why I stay away from buying a lady driven car as I have seen many start their car and rev away. Old people tend to rev their car '99' to reach the optimum temperature in fastest way...
 
I put them on both location. No metal pieces on eo oil drain plug, more of a metal dust but inside the pry open air filter(God knows how hard is it to manually cut the air filter in half using steel cutter), there are mixture of tiny sand and metal dust.
I forget to mentioned, I have done it on gearbox too. Guess what, thick yellowish metal dust on transmission fluid drain plug. Must be my sister changing gear without fully engage the
clutch :banghead:.

I think you mean oil filter?:confused::biggrin:

---------- Post added at 11:03 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------

If we change the oil filter frequently and don't delay the service interval, I guess not much metal impurities will go though the filter. My 2 cents..

This one sure change with oil change....:driver:
 
Actually, why on earth are there so much metal shards in your engines la? Mine was rebuilt so I have an excuse. You guys probably have fully run in engines and I don't see how you can get metal pieces floating around your oils.

Anyway, I put my magnets on my oil sump (inside). Everytime I'm in the mood I take out the sump tray and hey presto, the magnet is still there covered in metal filings. Now when I think about it, it's probably not a good idea to have a huge block of metal inside the engine hor? Especially if the magnetism loses its properties.

Oh shit. Ok I have something to do this weekend.
 
I put them on both location. No metal pieces on eo oil drain plug, more of a metal dust but inside the pry open air filter(God knows how hard is it to manually cut the air filter in half using steel cutter), there are mixture of tiny sand and metal dust.
I forget to mentioned, I have done it on gearbox too. Guess what, thick yellowish metal dust on transmission fluid drain plug. Must be my sister changing gear without fully engage the
clutch :banghead:.


More aye and less nay :biggrin:.
Yes : As the material of eo will degrade and become less effective after certain usage / period, service on time will avoid the build up of metal impurities inside. Reason for 5k - 10k service interval depend on eo type. Being a lousy driver, I usually change eo about 0.5k earlier from the service interval.
Nay : Most of the damage to the engine part happened during cold start where the cylinder, piston and whatever moving inside are not properly lubricated yet. Reason why I stay away from buying a lady driven car as I have seen many start their car and rev away. Old people tend to rev their car '99' to reach the optimum temperature in fastest way...

Hmmmm...to be frank, I've never warm up my engine in the morning. Just start engine and go.

Engines have optimum operating temperature range and the best and fastest way to reach that temperature is to drive them right away. This way, all the components reach optimum temp at the same rate. Idling too long to warm the engine up means the components are operating below optimum temperature longer so they'll exhibit more wear.

The key here is not to overstress the engine early in the operation, i.e to slowly build the rev as you go.
 
I have a habit of letting the engine idle for 3-5 mins before moving slowly and build up the revs... At cold start the idling for warming up will come down and thats when i start driving.
 
Actually, why on earth are there so much metal shards in your engines la? Mine was rebuilt so I have an excuse. You guys probably have fully run in engines and I don't see how you can get metal pieces floating around your oils.

Anyway, I put my magnets on my oil sump (inside). Everytime I'm in the mood I take out the sump tray and hey presto, the magnet is still there covered in metal filings. Now when I think about it, it's probably not a good idea to have a huge block of metal inside the engine hor? Especially if the magnetism loses its properties.

Oh shit. Ok I have something to do this weekend.

How big is the magnet? If big, you are replacing the space meant for the engine oil....:driver:

---------- Post added at 08:31 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:29 PM ----------

I have a habit of letting the engine idle for 3-5 mins before moving slowly and build up the revs... At cold start the idling for warming up will come down and thats when i start driving.

I start the engine, let the oil circulate for a while, reverse out then come out to lock the gate then drive slowly for 1st km or so....
 
I have a habit of letting the engine idle for 3-5 mins before moving slowly and build up the revs... At cold start the idling for warming up will come down and thats when i start driving.

I always start engine and let it sit at least 3-5 minutes while I take stuffs to put in my car and also open the gates. NO air cond too. Hate it when my friends or family member simply touch my cars.
 
i normally turn ac after +-30seconds the engine started to give small load for faster engine warmp-up....


why +-30seconds? because it was roughly taking that time for the engine oil to fully lubricating all engine area and the oil pump was fully primed up for its job...
 
I read through the whole of the OP but was unable to see anything related to how we can get the HDD magnets.. Did I miss something out?
 
i know where to get it. question is how to take it out

It's simple.. just remove all the screws and metallic binding tape.
Most of the HDD uses Torx screw.

So you need to buy these :

RM5 from Daiso la.. :P
Or cheaper from Mr DIY

13646.jpg
 
It's simple.. just remove all the screws and metallic binding tape.
Most of the HDD uses Torx screw.

So you need to buy these :

RM5 from Daiso la.. :P
Or cheaper from Mr DIY

13646.jpg

Hmm ok ok thanks. I'll find one and fiddle around with it. BTW how big is a HDD magnet? How many of those are in a typical HDD?
 
Hmm ok ok thanks. I'll find one and fiddle around with it. BTW how big is a HDD magnet? How many of those are in a typical HDD?

This is the size comparison.
And typically ... 2

Try not to put them TOGETHER.
Once snapped together, it is very VERY VERY hard to take them apart. Yes, it;s that strong

hard_drive_magnets.jpg
 
I have a few old HDDs that I don't mind parting with. Anyone game for 3 HDDs for RM20 or a lunch meal plus drink? :biggrin:
 
You know before i have torx screw...I use grinder to just destroy all those screw and cut the HDD into half with it...Hahahahaha....talk about overkill...
 
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