Common 4AGZE problems ONLY (let's share them here)

dell_zidane

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Hey ya all,
I wanted to start this thread because I think it's quite useful for us 4GZE owners to share our common problems and from then we can help others by giving solutions according to the precedence or advise which may have had happened to us.



If u don laik, I just delete this thread, because aa..u see so many problems here and there in so many pages that we have to look in every page.No i'm not talking about upgrades or what size of pulley can make my hp go to the moon.JUST PROBLEMS, common ones.I think this is ok.

what say u?
 

dell_zidane

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4AGZE common reverse gear entry problem

I like to start with reversing problems.

My 4AGZE and some other friends encounter this kind of problem when u want to change to reverse, the gear doesnt want to masuk.U have to play with the knob a bit and then baru mau masuk!!.

and I went to some pomen they said it is STANDARD for 4AGZE. is it true or it's a myth? How do we go about it?

thanks :D
 

shamburke

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Dec 9, 2003
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hi,

as for me the only problem i faced is the inner-head drive shaft... last time always kong after 6-9 months of usage....but after changing to 17" the problem seems to go away....now i thinking of wanting to change to 15".....

other than that everything is okay!!!! except one incident where i do top overhaul and something got inside the block... after 6 months.. the engine kaput.....hahaha to me for wanting to do it with actual fact theres nothing wrong with the engine.....


cheers...
 

synchron

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Nov 14, 2003
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Never to install oversize pulley more than 170 mm. S/c will not last at those rpm and also the engine will suffer from boost cut at 5500 rpm.

Tried using a 178mm pulley, the engine ended boosting more than 1.2 bar and blown it because of lean fueling and also the hp of the engine will not increase as much as it was suppose to. The s/c is spinning past the efficiency lvl so it is generating alot og hot air rather than cool ones.

Might be a little faster than those boosting 0.8bar.
 

TRDae92

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Malaysia....
www.cardomain.com
My past engine is gze, facing problem that the car kennot be lower too much, or ur inner shaft got " krok krok" while u passing the uneven road, being using BIG pulley to gain the boost, but finally as Synchron say, pump will get spoil soon, it is!!!! head valve seal and piston rings no good liao so haven't repair it then already dump 20svt turbo. Will convert back to 20v NA soon.
 

leviathan

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finally got gze thread.

my problem is...

standard fuel = bad idling, slight power loss
(vpower only can stabilize)

anyone here still using the ron switch? not sure about this, saw somewhere that jap models have a ron95 and ron100 setting
 

Ajeebulla

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Mine knocks when in the afternoon when its hot and when engine on load. I think its the 97 octane maybe. Dunno........:confused:
 

shamburke

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oh ya,


another thing bout this gze is that once i advance tuned..... the idling can only be stable if i lanyak the car... meaning i have to rev ....once i'm back to normal driving ..... the idling is really bad!!....

any idea??? apart from that... not much problm tho'....

cheerss
 

dell_zidane

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Which Petrol is good for 4AGZEs ? RON what?? read on

leviathan said:
so far my engine is okay no knocking etc.

from what i understand gze is built for ron100 petrols... anyone can clarify?
yes..from what I read err..just read lah..

Regular unleaded petrol

Regular unleaded petrol was introduced in 1986, and is the recommended fuel for the majority of passenger cars made since this date. It was introduced to enable new vehicles to operate with a catalytic converter, a device that reduces exhaust emissions. Regular unleaded typically has a Research Octane Number (RON) of 91 to 92.

Under the National Fuel Quality Standards, a national standard for regular unleaded petrol was introduced and enforced for the first time from January 2002.

Premium unleaded petrol
Premium unleaded petrol (PULP) is designed for engines that have a high compression ratio, and thus require higher-octane petrol to prevent knocking and optimise performance. PULP usually has a RON of 95 to 96, although a number of products are produced with a RON of 98. PULP products are also marketed as having various detergents that claim to provide cleansing benefits to vehicle engines.

This is rather more interesting part ..

Many imported cars and high performance cars require PULP. While some of these cars may have knock sensors to adjust timing when lower octane regular unleaded petrol is used, others do not. Thus, it is important to use PULP if the vehicle manufacturer recommends it. Using PULP in a car that is not designed for higher-octane petrol will not necessarily result in improved performance.

Pre-1986 vehicles can benefit from the high-octane properties of PULP, as many of these vehicles were designed for high-octane petrol. However, if PULP is used in pre-1986 vehicles, the engines may need to be modified, or an aftermarket anti-valve seat recession additive used to protect the engine.


so .. check your dough for Premium Fuel dudes!!!
 

Ajeebulla

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shamburke said:
oh ya,


another thing bout this gze is that once i advance tuned..... the idling can only be stable if i lanyak the car... meaning i have to rev ....once i'm back to normal driving ..... the idling is really bad!!....

any idea??? apart from that... not much problm tho'....

cheerss

I had the same problem, but after i clean the trottle body. Idling cantik d
 

dell_zidane

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4AGZE reverse problem (No feedback?)

Ya all

U guys dont have problems when getting into reverse mode ka? or should I change to kwikshift? hehehe
:confused:
 

sleepyfellow

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Reverse problem? Can't say that mine is bad, but it's not exactly smooth either. Not so sure about the condition of my gearbox tho. I did have some idling issues before that did cause gear shifts to be a bitch. But it's not that bad now. Very slight only.

My 2 cents:
I recommend changing your gear oil (choose a proper brand, not so sure wat suits the gze best...:P), and tuning ur car. If the problem persists, maybe ur synchro gone or need to change gearbox. Maybe need to check clutch and mounting too...erm...not too helpful am I?

I'm just throwing this in here. Feel free to correct me.
 

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