Check Engine Lamp intermittently...help please

[raja_rokan]

Check Engine Lamp intermittently...help please - RESOLVED

Hi All,

Need some help here. I have been driving my R34 2.5GT 4dr for about 6 month without a problem. Yesterday after I filled up the petrol, I just drove about 1km distance and I started to feel the vibrations. At 1st I thought it was like some things stucked on the tyre but then when I stopped at the traffic light the engine idling as getting lower than 800rpm - then the check engine lamp appears. When the car stops and the engine restarted sometimes dont have, some times do have.

So I already got up with some friends and I try to have some conclusion here. Perhaps any of you sifoos, grand master can have a say on this?

1. Weak battery?
2. deter plugs?
3. harness connection?
4. Air Flow Sensor problem?


Any of the workshop that you guys might want to recommend me also can be considered.


your guys help is very appreciated on this.


Thanks in advance.


Wan

 

[.S K A G E E.]

Hi Wan,

All four probable causes of your problem listed could cause the car to misfire or not run smoothly. However, only 1) Weak Battery 3) Harness connection could cause the 'engine check light' to go on. So check the condition of your battery and alternator and see if there are any loose connectors in the wiring.

Since the problem started soon after filling up the petrol, there is a chance you might have fill up the car with lower grade or contaminated pertrol. So thats another thing to look into.If its a lower grade fuel, you might solve this by resetting the ecu ( unplugging the battery for about 30mins and plugging it back in ) and slowly topping up the fuel with the correct octane..If its contaminated fuel (ie mixed with water or some other liquid) , I suggest draining the tank out.

Do you have an aftermarket ECU? As computers like PowerFC utilises the Check Engine Light as a form of warning indicator.

Hope I was much of a help

 

[raja_rokan]

Thank you very much Mr. SKAGEE, appreciate your view very well, though I am not sure whether PowerFC can be installed for the ER34 GT NEO engine then the normally GTT engine. I will try to check on the workaround given and will post the updates later on.

 

[V-Spec]

The Skyline hates a weak battery. Maybe that could be the cause.

 

[raja_rokan]

Thanks V-Spec, already decided to change the battery today, we will try to see what happens next...

 

[V-Spec]

Might help you in your hunt for the battery.... EJ's Nissan Skyline GF-ER34 (スカイライン): AC Delco Maintenance Free Battery

 

[zephuros]

Engine Stuttering and dying could be related to AFM. However, to confirm this ensure that the engine can rev smoothly past 2500rpm. If it can, then the airflow meter is not the problem. Also, if the engine were to die suddenly, (look at the tachometer - if the revs fall abruptly to 0, then it could the the Crank Angle Sensor or related wiring. Best is to plug the car into a diagnostics computer and see the error code returned. Post it here and i'll help you diagnose.

Also, yes, the 25 neo doesn't work well with a dying battery. I've experienced this before. I can also recommend using a electrical contact cleaner and use this to clean the AFM. make sure it is unplugged before you do this.

Your best bet is still to plug a diagnostics computer in and see the error code returned.

 

[raja_rokan]

Re: Check Engine Lamp constantly after start engine...help please

Hi back,

Here is some updates about what has been going on. I have went to some workshop that has the diagnostic tool. They use this - Multiscan to check on my car. So the error code returned is 21. It is something about the Injection timing control Feedback error.

As for the next action, the foremen did said something about the injection sensor might be faulty therefore he need to order the parts. Looking at the status of my car nnow, generally there is no fault can be seen, no performance degradation or misfire - Except that the 'check engine' light will straight away turn 'ON' everytime I started my car.

Any of you guys that do have the knowledge or those who have the FAST CD maybe can ellaborate to me on this, appreciate that in advance.


By the way, I have change to new Maintenance Free battery - it is NS60 (small terminal) and fits well, but still doesn't change anything towards this matter.

Thanks for viewing.


Wan

 

[zephuros]

Error Code 21 is Ignition System Circuit. Most likely one of the following is buggered:

1. Crank Angle Sensor (and related harness)
2. Coils
3. Spark Plugs.

From the above i would recommend trying to change the coils and plugs first. The crank angle sensor is easy to spot if it has failed - basically CAS problems manifest themselves in the engine suddenly dying with the tachometer needle falling immediately to 0. This is a quick and almost instant drop from idle to 0. If this is not the case then chances are that the CAS is fine.

Plugs can also be a problem. check this out. But since you are opening up the top, and removing the coils in the process, you might want to find and change the dead coil. If you are interested i have one single brand new Ignition coil that I bought. Still in the box. PM me if interested.

Besides that there is nothing really that is related to a Code 21.

 

[raja_rokan]

Hi all,

Would like to informed you guys here that my issues here has been resolved and thanks to all who helped out n gave the ideas.

Post mortem ;

Problem - check engine light are 'ON' earlier was intermittent but getting towards constantly later on.

Methods of troubleshooting ;
1. Erase the error in the ECU using diag. tools
1. Change car battery
2. Change the spark plug
3. Swap the coilpacks with other cars ( friends)
4. Swap the Crank Angle Sensor with friends car
5. Swap the ECU with other same engine

All the results above are the same - no changes as the light still 'ON'

From time to time this problem seems to made my coilpacks malfunction , that makes a total of 3 coilpacks. The misfiring happens ( that makes the engine/exhaust sounded like WRX) and getting worse.

Resolution ;

Some old timers tap in extra small grounding wire adding to the existing one. IT WORKS. The lights went off. As of the faulty coilpacks been replaced the engine sounds was never been better. It was the Weak Grounding Issues after all.

I do hope here that my experience can be shared to all in case anyone encounters the same problems.

Thanks again guys...


Wan.

 

[Innocente]

I too had some issues with erratic idle and voltage fluctuating ever-since I got my car... it was due to electrical contacts as well.. After cleaning both grounding and the positive terminal connections including the sub-harness that connects to the fusebox.. now it is stable.