Yeah thats why i use mineral oil and it does not have the tappet noise but the roughness of the engine.goodness.not solid.i thought of changing the lifters but one mech quoted me 1800.another quoted me 800.i was thinking of driving until everything give way first but everything still intact la.
Oh then get safcII better lo since i'm not going for hardcore modifications.td05 18g or 20g better?meaning this 2 can boost higher?
Clanz,heard from goth u r driving a monster.hehe.cheras area right?
i think the market price shud be around RM 45 /unit la...won't be until 1800 lo...but for my advise, just don bother it until someday that the tappet sound is 24/7 during driving, not at engine cold time only, then only u change lo..
is your choice of either SAFC or emanage, but bare in mind that SAFC is easily visible to others unless u unplug it when u leave your car alone and plug it back when u wanna drive..
of course 20g better as the inlet of the compressor is bigger...this 2 definately can boost higher than a td04h/h/hl from gsr...by using standard td04 from gsr, from my dyno graph, it showed that if i boost more than 1.2bar, the power will drop at the high-end, means at high rpm that time, there is no extra power gain while the power will slowly decrease...might be due to other factors too such as oil that u use, turbo condition, engine condition and so on..
u're goth's fren izit? lol not a monster la, normal ride only....yeah i'm from cheras..
dont need to change all ur hydraulic lifter la..b4 this my car also hv sound mesin jahit bcoz of the lifter n then my mech check the lifter and changed it onli one..he got spare lifter...n that sound dissappear...if hv sound from the lifter not all lifter damage...or better buy 1 complete of gsr head...onli cost 600-800..
my 0.02cent
u might be able to determine which hydraulic lifters has worned out if u do a check-up earlier..if already long time tat u got the 'tappet' sound, then is hard to determine which is worned and which is not...if let's say u did a check-up on the lifters and found one lifters in a extremly bad condition, so u change it, while the others looks 'OK', and when start engine, the sound still remain because some looks 'OK' lifters might produced the sound as well..
and u need to pay the workmanship for it no matter u change 1 or 16 units in one shot...unless u DIY or your mech do not charge any workmanship for u to open head cover then ok la, change and check one-by-one lo..hahaha
why now i feel my car has decrease g-force? in term of power it still the same (0-100 timing still same)
and how to check boost leak(beside boost leak test), can see from boost meter?
u felt that way maybe because u get used to it..this is psycological problems when u got the intention to want more (as most of the human did this)...or maybe really something wrong with your engine la...we dunno that..
boost leak means when u boost tat time got some places leaking air instead of going into the combustion chamber?
this can be check thru boost meter as well, because boost meter sense pressure that able to determine the pressure of your turbo thus creating a value shows in the meter...
if there is a boost leak, usually your boost meter will fluctuate and boost spike/creep will occur...(in the condition that your boost meter is working fine and accurate)
---------- Post added at 11:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:16 PM ----------
anyone know the price for td05 20g turbo?
i think a good half cut condition will be around 1500-1800 gua..
out ad. but now feel less g force. and now there's a spooling sound (i suppose so) like weee~. i dont know is it good or bad bcoz in term of power still same but less g force. maybe the power come linearly?
weee? LOL....did u change your air filter? izzit the sound occured during boost kick-in? if yes, then is your turbo wheel spining sound...or else if the sound occured and louder at higher rpm, maybe is because of your CD Player, insufficient earth, wiring etc..
if the sound occured during air-con ON, while off don't have, then is your air-con valve sound..
guys, is it recommended to change their i/c from side mount to middle?i mean i heard lots of ppl saying bout lag n stuff like that. im a newb here lol:) just mod open pod, bov n waste g thats all. so gys any 2 cents to spare? n if change wht i/c to go for? how much the total including piping?
bigger intercooler tend to create lag...but as if the size is ngam ngam hor(average size), then is ok...is ok to change your original sidemount gsr intercooler to evo1,2,3 size intercooler, the lag will not be too noticeable..u can choose half cut evo1,2,3 ic or just buy NEW aftermarket like infinite, etc etc...but make sure the size u're looking for is evo1,2,3 size, later u buy an evo9 intercooler size then hailat d...
half-cut evo1,2,3 around 400-800 depends on condition
new infinite evo size is around 600+ if not mistaken, can search in engine & modification section, a lot of aftermarket intercooler sellings there..
piping as assume u said stainless steel piping, just the piping from throtle body to intercooler, turbo to intercooler will be 600-1000 (depends on places and workmanship quality, and also the BRAND of the shop u go)...and u need minimum 4 silicone hoses, maximum 6-8...samco silicone hoses cost RM50 each..
if u would like to cut cost by doing stainless steel piping, u can just buy those evo1,2,3 piping which cost 150-250 only...but is rubber type laa..
