4G92 MIVEC questions, anyone running one

jay_lancer

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Hi

After considering boosting the 4G18 in my 2005 Lancer CS3A I got offered by a shop in BKK a JDM 4G92 MIVEC engine with a close ratio LSD manual gearbox so I decided to change my plans and buy and fit this engine.

My car has been in this shop for the last few weeks and I should get it back soon.

This is how it looks now, so nearly finished:


I have a few questions for anyone running a 4G92 MIVEC especially anyone who swapped from a 4G18.

First I am not sure the best fuel to run. The 4G92 MIVEC is designed to run on RON98 - RON100.

The options I have in Thailand are RON95 E10 or E20 which although is advertised as 95 in reality it has a RON of 98+

http://www.pttplc.com/en/Products-S...novation/Pages/PTT-Gasohol-Blue-E20-Test.aspx

So running it on E20 would be the best to get the most out of my engine, however I am concerned about the increased ethanol content of the fuel may affect my fuel pump, fuel lines, injectors etc.

Should I have any concerns about using E20? do I need to change my fuel pump to run E20, and if so could someone suggest the best fuel pump to use? The current sent up is still using the stock 4G18 fuel pump.

Also I would like to change the ugly stock 4G18 airbox, I do like the look of the open pod HKS air-filters but I am concerned about heat-soak making this mod make me lose power.



Can anyone suggest any alternatives for the air intake on a 4g92 MIVEC?

Finally once I get the car back, and before making the final payment to the shop who sold me the engine and carried out the swap, what is the best way to check the MIVEC cut over is working OK?

Many thanks for any replies!
 

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wow, finally you have an engine swap.
Yeah, I was almost ready to do a BOT on my 4G18 and then this engine came up.

Now just looking forward to getting the car back.

Thanks :)
 

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Yah! need some movement first, long time no run......lol:rofl:
Its been about 4 weeks my car has been in the shop, looking forward to getting it back, hopefully this weekend...


Question to Sweelt, because you are running a 4G93 Turbo which would be around the same age as my 4G92 MIVEC, (or anyone running an older Mitsu performance engine)

Do you know the ethanol content of fuel you are running there in Malaysia?

I would ideally like to run E20 with 20% ethanol because of the higher octane rating of this fuel but I am concerned running a 20% ethanol fuel will give corrosion issues with the fuel system, because this engine was designed when higher ethanol content petrol did not exist.

Many thanks
 

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Its been about 4 weeks my car has been in the shop, looking forward to getting it back, hopefully this weekend...


Question to Sweelt, because you are running a 4G93 Turbo which would be around the same age as my 4G92 MIVEC, (or anyone running an older Mitsu performance engine)

Do you know the ethanol content of fuel you are running there in Malaysia?

I would ideally like to run E20 with 20% ethanol because of the higher octane rating of this fuel but I am concerned running a 20% ethanol fuel will give corrosion issues with the fuel system, because this engine was designed when higher ethanol content petrol did not exist.

Many thanks
Yup, I am running a 4G63T.
Malaysian petrol no ethanol. Thailand have because they have plenty sugar cane so ethanol is abundance. Just like MY have plenty Palm oil so they try to increase Biodiesel usage.
 

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Yup, I am running a 4G63T.
Malaysian petrol no ethanol. Thailand have because they have plenty sugar cane so ethanol is abundance. Just like MY have plenty Palm oil so they try to increase Biodiesel usage.

OK sorry for my confusion, I thought being neighboring countries the fuel grades would be similar.

You are lucky to have RON97 pure benzene there!

I will have to find out from another source if I can safely use E20 or I will need to upgrade my fuel system for that

cheers
 

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OK sorry for my confusion, I thought being neighboring countries the fuel grades would be similar.

You are lucky to have RON97 pure benzene there!

I will have to find out from another source if I can safely use E20 or I will need to upgrade my fuel system for that

cheers
We also have Shell V Power Racing which is still 97 but with special additives and now Petron Ron 100.......:driver:
 

sweelt

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OK sorry for my confusion, I thought being neighboring countries the fuel grades would be similar.

You are lucky to have RON97 pure benzene there!

I will have to find out from another source if I can safely use E20 or I will need to upgrade my fuel system for that

cheers
If the engine is tuned for ethanol mixture, then is ok. :nurse:
Worry will kaboom...mechanic is your best friend now.
 

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Hi

After considering boosting the 4G18 in my 2005 Lancer CS3A I got offered by a shop in BKK a JDM 4G92 MIVEC engine with a close ratio LSD manual gearbox so I decided to change my plans and buy and fit this engine.

My car has been in this shop for the last few weeks and I should get it back soon.

This is how it looks now, so nearly finished:


I have a few questions for anyone running a 4G92 MIVEC especially anyone who swapped from a 4G18.

First I am not sure the best fuel to run. The 4G92 MIVEC is designed to run on RON98 - RON100.

The options I have in Thailand are RON95 E10 or E20 which although is advertised as 95 in reality it has a RON of 98+

http://www.pttplc.com/en/Products-S...novation/Pages/PTT-Gasohol-Blue-E20-Test.aspx

So running it on E20 would be the best to get the most out of my engine, however I am concerned about the increased ethanol content of the fuel may affect my fuel pump, fuel lines, injectors etc.

Should I have any concerns about using E20? do I need to change my fuel pump to run E20, and if so could someone suggest the best fuel pump to use? The current sent up is still using the stock 4G18 fuel pump.

Also I would like to change the ugly stock 4G18 airbox, I do like the look of the open pod HKS air-filters but I am concerned about heat-soak making this mod make me lose power.



Can anyone suggest any alternatives for the air intake on a 4g92 MIVEC?

Finally once I get the car back, and before making the final payment to the shop who sold me the engine and carried out the swap, what is the best way to check the MIVEC cut over is working OK?

Many thanks for any replies!
Read back on your post again and also the test report.
Firstly was surprised they mentioned the E10 is more expensive than E20. And since E20 is Ron98 above it should suit your Mivec nicely. I think you should be more concern about engine knocking.
As for the fuel pump and lines there should not be any problem as E20 is 20% ethanol mixed with petrol.

If you want to use open pod, best you extend your air intake and place the open pod out of the engine area. Most do by putting the pod at the bumper area. To me heat shield may be useless as the pod is still in the engine bay. Even original intake draws air from front of the engine...:driver:
 

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If the engine is tuned for ethanol mixture, then is ok. :nurse:
Worry will kaboom...mechanic is your best friend now.
I should not need a remap to run E20, if I went to E85 it would defiantly need a remap or piggyback as a minimum though. My concern about E20 is if the fuel pump etc can handle it because I have heard that more ethanol sticky than regular petrol so components can get gummed up and stop working in older cars. My actual base car is not too old (2005) so not sure if this will be a problem or if I need to replace the fuel hose, fuel pipes.

E20 would give me higher octane which is great for my engine though :)
 

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Read back on your post again and also the test report.
Firstly was surprised they mentioned the E10 is more expensive than E20. And since E20 is Ron98 above it should suit your Mivec nicely. I think you should be more concern about engine knocking.
As for the fuel pump and lines there should not be any problem as E20 is 20% ethanol mixed with petrol.

If you want to use open pod, best you extend your air intake and place the open pod out of the engine area. Most do by putting the pod at the bumper area. To me heat shield may be useless as the pod is still in the engine bay. Even original intake draws air from front of the engine...:driver:
E20 is cheaper here, because they are trying to promote it more I think, they don't officially even claim the octane rating is RON98+ it is still marketed as RON95, the higher octane is just because ethanol just gives a higher octane, which is good for performance car lovers like us but 99% of the population don't care about that LOL

I will try and figure out a nice way to get my air intake out of the engine area, the problem is here in Thailand in rainy season the roads flood a lot so I cannot go too low with the air intake or it might suck in water. This car still has to be my daily driver, so need to keep it practical.

I might go for some bonnet vents to keep under the bonnet cooler at speed at some stage, my bonnet could do with a respray anyway, not thought about it much yet though, but maybe something like this



This should sit over the exhaust manifold area so no electrical parts to be affected by rain, do you think this would help with under bonnet heat or be more trouble than its worth with rain getting in the engine bay?
 

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If you're gonna run ethanol please make sure you check your fuel lines and the pump regularly. It'll corrode your pump and all if it wasn't designed to handle it and you don't want to have a leaking fuel line.

If you do a quick google you'll see there's a lot of complaints with E85, particularly on cars not designed for it and all their fuel pumps, regulators and filters are in terrible shape. Corroded and in pretty bad shape. I donno how these people drove with problems like this.
 

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well...if E85..definately need to overhaul your fuel line and pumps



but if just E10 (or anything below 30%) still relatively safe....just dont use walbro or any gerotor type of aftermarket fuel pump...

use the turbine type composite type fuel pump just to be safe on corrosion issue (that will lead to fuel pump pressure loss over long time)
 

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E85 is like running on ethanol already. He wants to try E20 which is 20% ethanol.
One thing ethanol octane is higher but mileage reported is less......lol
 

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E20 is cheaper here, because they are trying to promote it more I think, they don't officially even claim the octane rating is RON98+ it is still marketed as RON95, the higher octane is just because ethanol just gives a higher octane, which is good for performance car lovers like us but 99% of the population don't care about that LOL

I will try and figure out a nice way to get my air intake out of the engine area, the problem is here in Thailand in rainy season the roads flood a lot so I cannot go too low with the air intake or it might suck in water. This car still has to be my daily driver, so need to keep it practical.

I might go for some bonnet vents to keep under the bonnet cooler at speed at some stage, my bonnet could do with a respray anyway, not thought about it much yet though, but maybe something like this



This should sit over the exhaust manifold area so no electrical parts to be affected by rain, do you think this would help with under bonnet heat or be more trouble than its worth with rain getting in the engine bay?
In that case maybe a replacement performance air filter is better for you. Just slot back into original filter box....:driver:
 

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well...if E85..definately need to overhaul your fuel line and pumps



but if just E10 (or anything below 30%) still relatively safe....just dont use walbro or any gerotor type of aftermarket fuel pump...

use the turbine type composite type fuel pump just to be safe on corrosion issue (that will lead to fuel pump pressure loss over long time)
Thanks, that is exactly what I need to know, I have been running E10 for the last 2 years on my old 4G18, and not changing the fuel pump as yet, I will see how it manages with E20 and if I do have to change it I know what to avoid.

Are fuel pump's generally universal, or would I need one to fit exactly my fuel tank?
 

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Thanks, that is exactly what I need to know, I have been running E10 for the last 2 years on my old 4G18, and not changing the fuel pump as yet, I will see how it manages with E20 and if I do have to change it I know what to avoid.

Are fuel pump's generally universal, or would I need one to fit exactly my fuel tank?
As far as I know the fuel pump are made for specific models. Aftermarket may have too, but if special pumps, then need to mod in.....:smokin:
 

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As far as I know the fuel pump are made for specific models. Aftermarket may have too, but if special pumps, then need to mod in.....:smokin:
Done a bit of research online, there are lots of options that are compatible with my car out there, I will probably go for an E85 compatible fuel pump and fuel hose, then I know it will defiantly be fine for E20, and I am ready if I want to go E85 in the future (will need to change the map or ECU to do this so more expensive)

Have you hear of Kemso?

They have a pump that looks good value that would fit:


cheers
 

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Nope, but have not played with pumps much, and that one looks just like mine. Probably Mitsu use for many models of their make.
 
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Done a bit of research online, there are lots of options that are compatible with my car out there, I will probably go for an E85 compatible fuel pump and fuel hose, then I know it will defiantly be fine for E20, and I am ready if I want to go E85 in the future (will need to change the map or ECU to do this so more expensive)

Have you hear of Kemso?

They have a pump that looks good value that would fit:


cheers
just make sure your fuel pump dimension and in/outlet position at the oem pump...
make sure new pump have the same placement and dimension... else quite troublesome to modify fuel pump assy to fit...
 

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I don't have my car back yet, it is running great when warm but very rough when cold.

I was meant to get it last week but the shop showed me the problem and spent several hours checking every sensor as well as changing the plugs.

Eventually they called an ECU specialist to check the ECU and it showed up as having a fault (my Thai was not good enough to understand what the fault is, but I guess something about how it controls the electronic choke)

Currently the shop is trying to find a replacement ECU, hoping one can be found soon, if not worse case I might have to go for an aftermarket ECU and find somewhere to map it.

thanks for everyone's input so far, I have the use of another vehicle sometimes but I am itching to drive my car!

cheers
 

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aftermarket ecu....all the reason to mod the car more and more to fully utilise the ecu function.....
Thats one strong reason to never stop modding.
 

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Mitsu ECU seems to be the weakest, many got issues with them. Even mine have been repaired before....:hmmmm:
 

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I don't have my car back yet, it is running great when warm but very rough when cold.

I was meant to get it last week but the shop showed me the problem and spent several hours checking every sensor as well as changing the plugs.

Eventually they called an ECU specialist to check the ECU and it showed up as having a fault (my Thai was not good enough to understand what the fault is, but I guess something about how it controls the electronic choke)

Currently the shop is trying to find a replacement ECU, hoping one can be found soon, if not worse case I might have to go for an aftermarket ECU and find somewhere to map it.

thanks for everyone's input so far, I have the use of another vehicle sometimes but I am itching to drive my car!

cheers


the ecu or the electronic choke a.k.a fast idle bypass mechanism on the throttle body thats actually didnt work?
 

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the ecu or the electronic choke a.k.a fast idle bypass mechanism on the throttle body thats actually didnt work?
The shop had spare throttle body's which they tried changing along with several other components before getting the ECU guy over, good suggestion though, I appreciate it!

they said that it was running fine before they took it to the exhaust shop for the custom pipe. I wonder if they welding there did something to the ECU?
 

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The shop had spare throttle body's which they tried changing along with several other components before getting the ECU guy over, good suggestion though, I appreciate it!

they said that it was running fine before they took it to the exhaust shop for the custom pipe. I wonder if they welding there did something to the ECU?
Hope they remove the battery terminal when doing the welding, but for exhaust normally the welding done off the car, then just hook up to the car when ready, or yours require welding while on the car?:hmmmm:
 

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Hope they remove the battery terminal when doing the welding, but for exhaust normally the welding done off the car, then just hook up to the car when ready, or yours require welding while on the car?:hmmmm:
not sure, i was not there, I would have hoped they disconnected the battery. Maybe they did and it was just bad luck the ECU had an issue.

If a suitable ECU cannot be found, can they be repaired?

Thanks
 

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not sure, i was not there, I would have hoped they disconnected the battery. Maybe they did and it was just bad luck the ECU had an issue.

If a suitable ECU cannot be found, can they be repaired?

Thanks
Depends what is wrong. mine the issue was leaking capacitors, so after changing was running....:driver:
 

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not sure, i was not there, I would have hoped they disconnected the battery. Maybe they did and it was just bad luck the ECU had an issue.

If a suitable ECU cannot be found, can they be repaired?

Thanks
There's a guy on FB that fixes ECUs and aftermarket ECUs etc. I can find the contact and share it with you if you're interested.
 

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There's a guy on FB that fixes ECUs and aftermarket ECUs etc. I can find the contact and share it with you if you're interested.
that would be great, any lead I can find would be very welcome at this stage

thanks for your support
 

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this is how it is running as of now, very rough idle when cold, gets smoother when the engine gets hotter

https://youtu.be/e4BKg1PHieI

the shop tried my ECU on another customer car with the same engine and it had the same issue
 

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this is how it is running as of now, very rough idle when cold, gets smoother when the engine gets hotter

https://youtu.be/e4BKg1PHieI

the shop tried my ECU on another customer car with the same engine and it had the same issue


seems like u need them to service the throttle body assy clean them up properly...
 

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seems like u need them to service the throttle body assy clean them up properly...
They tried that first, tried 3 different throttle body assemblies. I agree that is what it looks like at first.

I think one of my Thai friends has tracked down a second hand ECU, hoping this comes through and I can get my car back!

cheers
 

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my noob guess. ECU are learning, but it seem like something or sensor give irregular reading so it try to counter it.
Scantool read any faults ?
See any engine that can use ur ECU as test to confirm its OK or really ecu kaput.
Don shoot me, i'm learning too. :hmmmm:
 
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my noob guess. ECU are learning, but it seem like something or sensor give irregular reading so it try to counter it.
Scantool read any faults ?
See any engine that can use ur ECU as test to confirm its OK or really ecu kaput.
Don shoot me, i'm learning too. :hmmmm:
not a crazy suggestion, some ECU's have 'learning' abilities, the ECU in the 2001 Audi TT which was the last car I owned in the UK before moving to Asia 'Learned', you could notice a slight difference if you disconnected and reconnected the battery, miss that car


In this case I don't think the tick over at cold would be so bad however, also as you suggested they already tried my ECU on another car withe same engine and no other issues, and the rough running at idle when cold issue was duplicated when my ECU was plugged in. They did use a scan tool to look for error's, and none came up, then they sent out for a ECU specialist who hooked the ECU to his notebook and said there was an issue.

Not sure of the exact issue as they were talking in Thai, and my Thai language skills are not good enough to understand exactly what he said.

Hopefully the replacement ECU my friend found will work, will keep the other one and try and get it fixed if they don't give me money off.

thanks for all the support so far!
 

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Did not try the customer ECU on your car?:driver:
Unfortunately that was not possible, I guess the owner of that car did not want to risk his ECU, I don't really blame him.

Anyway I have a replacement ECU now, if it works should get the car back Friday or Saturday.


One thing I love about living here, is there are little business dealing with all aspects of car parts, (or anything else), you just need the contacts to find them!

This issue has been frustrating but also learning loads too, so not all bad :biggrin:

Nothing much like this in the UK were I am from, only ebay for stuff like this and a big wait for delivery.

cheers
 

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Unfortunately that was not possible, I guess the owner of that car did not want to risk his ECU, I don't really blame him.

Anyway I have a replacement ECU now, if it works should get the car back Friday or Saturday.


One thing I love about living here, is there are little business dealing with all aspects of car parts, (or anything else), you just need the contacts to find them!

This issue has been frustrating but also learning loads too, so not all bad :biggrin:

Nothing much like this in the UK were I am from, only ebay for stuff like this and a big wait for delivery.

cheers
The numbers on the ECU differ? sure the same? I mean ECU model number.

In Malaysia, have these businesses too....:driver:
 

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https://www.facebook.com/repairecu1malaysia/

I know the repair guy personally. He' a en electronic techno wizard

WOW looked at the facebook page, very impressed, thanks very much for posting!

I have now found the reason the initial ECU was damaged, it was due to a mistake by the wiring guy.

Luckily this mistake was discovered before the replacement ECU was fitted.

The wiring issue has been fixed and I should be able to get the car on Tuesday, trying not to get too excited as there has been so many false dawn's with this project.

My mechanic and his wiring guy had a big argument!

I will keep my damaged ECU and will see if I can fix it in the shop Izso recommended next time I am in KL which will be later this year.

Thanks for all the support and suggestions!
 
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so thought I would update the thread, got the car back!

driven about 200 KM so far both on the open road and in traffic and overall I am pretty happy with it.

On a smooth flat and empty motorway last night I got up to 175 Kph then part of the rubber around the windscreen got loose so slowed down. Definitely more to go.

It does not feel torquey like a turbo car but very free revving and faster and way more responsive than before.

Also fine in traffic, clutch is not heavy and no overheating.

Thanks for all the help and advise from the BM's here






I have a UK trip next month, when I am back as expenses allow I will be doing more mods, next I would like some semi-bucket seats, a brake upgrade (maybe using Skyline R32 4pot calipers), a short shift kit, maybe an EVO steering rack.

cheers
 

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jay_lancer

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jay_lancer

Known Member
Thread starter
Aug 21, 2015
292
70
28
Thailand
Have had a few busy months but the last few weeks had a little more time so have done some more mods to my Lancer:

Got the oil pressure and temp gauges working and a bit of fake carbon fibre on the dashboard (still got a couple of air bubbles to worry about but looks ok for a first attempt:




Got some new seats, budget didn't allow Genuine Recaro's or Brides. Did look at some copies that looked nice but I was concerned about the safety and longer term durability of copy/fake seats so in the end found a shop who sold me and fitted a nice set of used Mazda RX8 seats:




The shop's FB page is:
https://www.facebook.com/Bypassseat/
if anyone is intrested

Got some new tyres, again was on a budget but read some good reviews on Maxxis i-Pro's so went for these in 205/45R16



hated the old school key and alarm fob, so got a new folding key reprogrammed to match the existing alarm/remote central locking:

old...


new...



next step will be to sort out the rebound on the rear coilovers as the back of the car is a little bouncy on some rough Thai roads, then after that I am looking at doing a brake upgrade.

cheers
 

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vr2turbo

Beyond 20,000 RPM!
Helmet Clan
Moderator

vr2turbo

Beyond 20,000 RPM!
Helmet Clan
Moderator
May 11, 2010
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Petaling Jaya
Nice seats, better then fakes at least.....lol
Maxxis i-pro are quite okay, same category as the older Z1 but much quieter.....