4G13 feels heavy when aircond switched on

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ravingill

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Hye guys , i drive a satria 1.3gli , i recently changed my aircond compressor bcoz the old one was jammed up. I was using a patco ac compressor and most shops recommended denso with modified bracket. So i decided to go with denso since its known to be reliable , everything is fine except as im driving and the ac kicks in i feel a lost of power , it is very noticeable and my performance drops.

Now , i am wondering why is this happening , could it be the belting or installation error or my altenator cant support the power.

I also notice that when id rive over huge puddle of water my aircond belt slips. It goes away after like few seconds. Why does this happen

Really could use some input guys.
 
well , i dont know how to check , when i bought the shop said its for satria 1.3 only thing its different brand , original was patco now im using denso. It looks the same size
 
sorry bro..
experiencing the same..
but coz i used a bigger compressor..
so if u said the size is the same..
so i dont know..

sorry.. haha..
 
well anyone wif any info pls enlighten me
 
it could have something to do with what type of compressor it is. There are generally two kinds we find in our cars; piston or rotary.

Now...its been years since I've touched A/C's, so IF my memory serves me...piston types are more powerful, however need more power to run, and the rotary is the opposite.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Does your a/c feel cooler/better? About the belt, you probably just need to re-check the tension and tighten if necessary.

Cheers!


Edit:

Found these links:
Patco
Denso
 
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problem confirmed by compressor type....

patco from rotary type need less power than piston type to work...thus when u use piston type compressor it became obvious the compressor causing more drag to your engine....

plus it was 1.3 model...so the power loss become obvious.... :adore:


btw how much the workshop charge denso compressor over patco brand???coz my friend 1.3 wira oso having AC compressor problem..
 
-edit-
 
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well , i guess its the brand then since im using denso it must be piston type, patco is rotary.

pomen_GTR > bro i purchase the compressor at rm350 just 5 months back , if your friend want denso , i will sell to him , i will take back patco then. I dont want the power loss feeling. Lol

My , workshop in pj , installation and servicing my ac cost around 380.
 
how about patco compressor price????


coz my friend said the shop he ask quote around 1k+- :stupid:
 
wow , 1k is damn expensive bro , unless its new , my compressor is recond , has warranty 3 months , usually when compressor spoil it is repairable, it ony gets spoil if neva service the compressor , so a recond one will work fine as long as u take care of its oil and all. Well patco also same price but harder to get as its not popular , always give way. Thats why i took denso.
And denso is much cooler compared to patco.
 
bigger compressor is the issue. had alot frenz test it out.nowdays halfcut hard to find for 4g13 ac compressor.
 
This is an old thread, but just wanted to give
some feedback.

Nippondenso compressors are relatively heavy
and "draggy" on the engine, which is why I never
really liked them. There are also no replacement
parts on the market, and the whole compressor
must be replaced when faulty. Neither are they
cheap when new, costing in the region of $1,000.

During the 80s, I tested this friend's Ford Laser 1.5
(Mazda engine), fitted with a Nippondenso, which looked
relatively small and compact.

Revving the engine to just 2,500 rpm, I switched on the
airconditoner. When the compressor engaged, the tachometer
fell to 1,750 rpm, a power loss of 750 rpm, or no less than 30 per cent !

Even without revving it, you can have an idea of how light or
heavy the compressor is at idle. Disconnect your FICD. At
an idle speed of 900 to 1,000 rpm, if your tacho falls less than
200 rpm when the compressor cuts in, it's considered light.
If more than that, it's heavy.

Nippondensos are swashplate type, similar to Sankyos.

I'm not sure if Patcos are swashplates or rotary vanes, but that
on my brother's Iswara 1.3 is not light either.
 
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My aircon man says he can't modify it to a Sankyo as the
suction and discharge lines on the Patco in my brother's Iswara 1.3
are routed the other way around, so I am stuck with this
heavy, noisy Patco.


If your aircon man can do it, ask him if he can replace it with
a Sankyo 505.

RPARTS.COM - Sanden Compressor

This is the lightest compressor from the Sankyo (or Sanden)
series. The "5" denotes a capacity of just 5 cubic inches, or 88 cc.

This is some 30 per cent lighter than the more common Sankyo 507
which you see fitted universally in many cars.

The 507 has a capacity of 7 cubit inches, or 108 cc.

The 505 is meant for engines from 600 - 1,000 cc, which means
that the Kanchil can even drive it.

The 507 is typically for engines of 1,000 - 1,600 cc.

I replaced the 507 with a 505 in my previous car, a Corolla KE70,
1,290 cc engine.

When the compressor kicked in, you can barely feel any drag.


If your system is using the newer R134 gas, this is SD-5H09
is the 505's equivalent.


RPARTS.COM - Sanden SD5H09 (505) Compressor

Sanden International - Singapore
 
Bro, u said when compressor kicks in, rpm will drop. How come my rpm goes up when i turn on the aircond in N? And feel only slight power loss when on D (too little to notice). What does that means? I dun like the idea of higher rpm when using the aircond coz it gave me the feeling i am burning more fuel which is why i only use the aircond sparingly. Can i adjust the carb so that the rpm wont raise or drop when the aircond kicks in? My car is a 1991 Saga Aeroback 1.5 Automatic 12V Carb. I would like to install an LED, so that when the compressor kicks in, i will know it (do u know which point best to tap in?). It is useful coz i got cold blood and cant tahan cold, so i only set the temperature to minimum (turning type) but if turn too little, sometimes the thermostat will get pening, so it automatically turn on and off the compressor in short durations as this may spoilt the compressor, so if i got an LED indicator, i will increase the temperature more a bit to stop this but not too much as i will get cold to death. While i cant turn off the compressor entirely as the fan will give off mushy smell and will fog my screen.
 
Bro, u said when compressor kicks in, rpm will drop. How come my rpm goes up when i turn on the aircond in N? And feel only slight power loss when on D (too little to notice). What does that means? I dun like the idea of higher rpm when using the aircond coz it gave me the feeling i am burning more fuel which is why i only use the aircond sparingly. Can i adjust the carb so that the rpm wont raise or drop when the aircond kicks in? My car is a 1991 Saga Aeroback 1.5 Automatic 12V Carb.

I would like to install an LED, so that when the compressor kicks in, i will know it (do u know which point best to tap in?). It is useful coz i got cold blood and cant tahan cold, so i only set the temperature to minimum (turning type) but if turn too little, sometimes the thermostat will get pening, so it automatically turn on and off the compressor in short durations as this may spoilt the compressor, so if i got an LED indicator, i will increase the temperature more a bit to stop this but not too much as i will get cold to death. While i cant turn off the compressor entirely as the fan will give off mushy smell and will fog my screen.

yes u can retune ur idle rpm when aircond kicks in... there is a UFO lookalike actuator facing upwards on the right side of ur carburetor below the airbox... use a short screwdriver to tune it... turn anticlockwise to reduce the rpm... if u not sure of which one, ask ur mechanic/friend to do it...

check ur aircond thermostat... possibly the thermostat or the switch is damaged... causing the aircond to kick in and out even though it has not reached the preset temperature...
changing the thermostat requires removing the cooling coil....
 
If i retune the idle speed when the compressor kicks in, will that affect the normal idle speed? I mean the idle rpm when start the car in the morning and let it idle to warm it up, that idle speed.

What i want is, when i push the aircond button, i want the rpm to stay the same.

If i am able to tune till there is no effect when the compressor kicks in or out, can i say i am using free aircond? I dun mine if the cooling performance drop.
 
My car is a 1991 Saga Aeroback 1.5 Auto 12V Carb, does anyone know what
aircond gas it should be using? Is it true R-12 is cooler than R-134?

Last week i went aircond shop coz i see bubble on the tiny window, usually if
bubbling meaning not enuff gas. The guy let the old gas escape and replace
with R-134. Now what if the old gas is R-12, does using R-134 not requiring
any upgrade kit or replacing parts? And also the oil, should i flush and replace
with a R-134 compatible oil?
 
i'm using iswara sedan 1.5 manual.... when i on the aircond,car gets heavier...
is there any solution or something i can do?
mybe suggestion parts and prices....
plus the air isn't cold enough when driving in the afternoon or evening...

pm me best solution friends... pls..
 

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