- Apr 18, 2006
- 3,676
- 170
- 1,663
You know, chris of pentagon mentioned about having baseline dyno results before you mod your car.. I think he has a point, and I'm going to post a more detailed reason why I went and dyno a fully stock B16A with the stock ECU with just exhaust and intake mods..
So that's why I did for mine, and I posted the results on zth..
unfortunately.. the dyno reads mine a little high.. to high in fact, for a stock B16A.. in fact, I'm making power comparable to that of a stock 1.8. Dyno reads high? Possibly, but with 2.1L setup getting 190 whp (before) 210 atw (after tuning).. it can't be that far off, right? (on the same time and day I dyno'ed my car too)
Why did I dyno a stock car in the first place, you ask?
Well the reason I did it because.
a) I want to find out exactly how the stock B16A performs.
b) I want to find out how much power I'm making, and 'where' I'm making them.
c) I wanted to know if the mods I make did result in an improvement of a stock B16A that usually see about 130-140hp.
d) I wanted to see how well the stock honda ECU copes with improved intake and headers.
e) I wanted to know why is it that my car can keep up with a B18C on high rpms, but 'makan asap' when at low rpms.
The results..
The header and intake resulted in a lean mixture at high rpms.. plugs were whitish for a while, and I decided on the ghetto route of getting a type R regulator (which I know makes more fuel pressure than my stock B16A unit) I have to get a sard unit soon though.. but the blue/red color - blergh! Haven't seen a chrome unit yet though.. I know they're available.
That cured the lean mixture problem, but it killed low end power with it's fuel enrichment on low rpms..
So.. guys.. dyno your stock engines.. you might just find that your car makes pretty good power, and then you can decide your modifications.
The strange thing is.. I'm still getting good fuel economy. I suspect the honda P30 can lean out fuel mixtures, but cannot enrich mixtures unless it goes into 'limp mode'. I don't think they're capable of doing much though.. probably about 10-20% of fuelling adjustment for fuel economy.
Now if only someone can borrow me a LM-1 to datalog the stock ECU fuelling on mine. I'm going to do some experiments on how introducing resistance to the exhaust and then clearing it up will affect the ECU fuelling.
Friend went and sold his.. (>.<)
So consider this a resurrection of the dyno thread.. this time it's not to compare, but to log a baseline of B-series and their various iteration.
You may just be surprised how much myth is being spread out on XXXX part guaranteed to net 10hp, esp those from taiwan and such.
I'll post mine later.. with engine specs.. since it's mine.. I don't bloody care if people see it or not.
You'd be surprised at how little mod you need for stage 1 of getting power out of a honda.. no VAFC (it helps though).. no micro compressor/surbo/etc shit.
Just reputable intakes and exhaust system upgrade, and a fuel regulator nets more power than 99% of the unproven stuff people put in their car.
You know.. I see a lot of fat tube intakes.. but are you sure they generate power? I've seen a few years back how the stock airbox works better that the plastic fat tube intake that seems to be popular since maybe 2-3 years ago?
Dynoed a slightly modded 96' R on it (DC2 4-1 headers).. 163whp with fat tube intake, dyno with stock airbox and new filter (165whp), mugen airbox 166whp.
Seems like the mugen airbox is a poor buy at 1K+, but coupled with the mugen extractors, final was around 170+whp.
See how the combo's complement each other?
A lot of people simply butt dyno, but I bet you don't realise that a flat spot in the torque curve would give the impression that the car is faster... :P
Better get a G-sensor (not the one measuring the G-spot ah!)
or get a timed sprint run (from second gear at a preset rev range like 2K or so, if from standstill, you will find your times varying) b4 and after if you don't have access to a dyno.
Remember, as hp numbers climb in an NA engine.. it's harder to get more.. 10hp gain on stock is easy, 20hp or more gets progressively harder as your hp number climbs.
Don't be surprised at people spending 10K for that final 10-15hp they wanted.
I hope turbo civic owners that recently joined zth will post theirs as well. It's one thing to claim 300hp, it's quite another to have dyno papers to back it up with.
I'll try get some of my friends to post theirs, if they're willing.
So that's why I did for mine, and I posted the results on zth..
unfortunately.. the dyno reads mine a little high.. to high in fact, for a stock B16A.. in fact, I'm making power comparable to that of a stock 1.8. Dyno reads high? Possibly, but with 2.1L setup getting 190 whp (before) 210 atw (after tuning).. it can't be that far off, right? (on the same time and day I dyno'ed my car too)
Why did I dyno a stock car in the first place, you ask?
Well the reason I did it because.
a) I want to find out exactly how the stock B16A performs.
b) I want to find out how much power I'm making, and 'where' I'm making them.
c) I wanted to know if the mods I make did result in an improvement of a stock B16A that usually see about 130-140hp.
d) I wanted to see how well the stock honda ECU copes with improved intake and headers.
e) I wanted to know why is it that my car can keep up with a B18C on high rpms, but 'makan asap' when at low rpms.
The results..
The header and intake resulted in a lean mixture at high rpms.. plugs were whitish for a while, and I decided on the ghetto route of getting a type R regulator (which I know makes more fuel pressure than my stock B16A unit) I have to get a sard unit soon though.. but the blue/red color - blergh! Haven't seen a chrome unit yet though.. I know they're available.
That cured the lean mixture problem, but it killed low end power with it's fuel enrichment on low rpms..
So.. guys.. dyno your stock engines.. you might just find that your car makes pretty good power, and then you can decide your modifications.
The strange thing is.. I'm still getting good fuel economy. I suspect the honda P30 can lean out fuel mixtures, but cannot enrich mixtures unless it goes into 'limp mode'. I don't think they're capable of doing much though.. probably about 10-20% of fuelling adjustment for fuel economy.
Now if only someone can borrow me a LM-1 to datalog the stock ECU fuelling on mine. I'm going to do some experiments on how introducing resistance to the exhaust and then clearing it up will affect the ECU fuelling.
Friend went and sold his.. (>.<)
So consider this a resurrection of the dyno thread.. this time it's not to compare, but to log a baseline of B-series and their various iteration.
You may just be surprised how much myth is being spread out on XXXX part guaranteed to net 10hp, esp those from taiwan and such.
I'll post mine later.. with engine specs.. since it's mine.. I don't bloody care if people see it or not.
You'd be surprised at how little mod you need for stage 1 of getting power out of a honda.. no VAFC (it helps though).. no micro compressor/surbo/etc shit.
Just reputable intakes and exhaust system upgrade, and a fuel regulator nets more power than 99% of the unproven stuff people put in their car.
You know.. I see a lot of fat tube intakes.. but are you sure they generate power? I've seen a few years back how the stock airbox works better that the plastic fat tube intake that seems to be popular since maybe 2-3 years ago?
Dynoed a slightly modded 96' R on it (DC2 4-1 headers).. 163whp with fat tube intake, dyno with stock airbox and new filter (165whp), mugen airbox 166whp.
Seems like the mugen airbox is a poor buy at 1K+, but coupled with the mugen extractors, final was around 170+whp.
See how the combo's complement each other?
A lot of people simply butt dyno, but I bet you don't realise that a flat spot in the torque curve would give the impression that the car is faster... :P
Better get a G-sensor (not the one measuring the G-spot ah!)
or get a timed sprint run (from second gear at a preset rev range like 2K or so, if from standstill, you will find your times varying) b4 and after if you don't have access to a dyno.
Remember, as hp numbers climb in an NA engine.. it's harder to get more.. 10hp gain on stock is easy, 20hp or more gets progressively harder as your hp number climbs.
Don't be surprised at people spending 10K for that final 10-15hp they wanted.
I hope turbo civic owners that recently joined zth will post theirs as well. It's one thing to claim 300hp, it's quite another to have dyno papers to back it up with.
I'll try get some of my friends to post theirs, if they're willing.
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