Rotary Engines - FAQ.

[csl]

Great. Let's do it during our gathering.

As for the super black issue, did u flush your old engine oil, i.e in your oil coolers etc? I do my oil change at 3k km for my RX-7s and 10k km for my R34. Actually after the 2nd oil change, the blue oil will be more effective.

Quote from Chris Yap Write-up:-

It is important to note that the first time this new oil is used, it progressively dislodges the build-ups from previous mineral base engine oils. At the same time, it forms a durable protective layer on all moving metal components in the engine. Therefore, it is recommended that second oil change be carried out after 10,000 kms – 20,000 kms for cars. On the second oil change, the thin molecular layer of Texas Revolution Titanium Engine Oil will be even more effective. The subsequent oil change interval can now be extended to every 20,000 kms.

More info:-
ROAR Lubricant




.

Got spare roar oil for sale or not? Wanna try lei

 

[InitialD]

savahn, I think we all can see the point that you are trying to make.
I used to have the same opinion as you too.

But that changed many years ago when I started using synthetic oil in my old car which was normal 4 piston engine and have never used mineral oil since then.

Basically, there are 2 schools of thoughts here. One do not believe in paying so much for synthetic over mineral when mineral works just as fine unless you are going racing or have a 400hp monster engine.

The other one, are people who don't mind paying more to pamper their engines with synthetic oil hoping that they will sleep better thinking synthetic would offer better protection to their precious engines. They also feel that their engine revs smoother with synthetic over mineral.

We all are entitled to our own opinions. There is no wrong or right here.

Just to clear the air, I didn't say Royal Purple Oil is the best motor oil in the world.
I only introduce it since it has been tested to work fine with rotary engines.

I believe that before you condemn something, you should go find out or test it out for yourself first.

For those of you who wanna know about the history of Royal Purple Oil, check out this link: http://www.oil-shop-uk.co.uk/acatalog/Royal_Purple_Oil.html

 

[RERider]

you should go find out or test it out for yourself first.

I agree with u on that.

---------- Post added at 07:43 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:42 PM ----------

Got spare roar oil for sale or not? Wanna try lei

CSL, yes I do have.

 

[savahn]

Hmmm... I don't believe I was condemning it. Just putting a lot of skepticism over the benefits.

Oh, and I apologize for any insults I may have thrown out.

Though I have to admit that in my position, I cannot afford to maintain with synthetic oil. One of my mates wanted me to switch to synthetic a few years ago but just didnt after seeing the price on that tin. Maybe after I fully upgraded all the parts for my car will I consider.

 

[csl]

Synthetic just for extra insurance, especially those who don't know about car or the environment defender who wanna replace oil at 10k km. Mineral is ok as long as the owner has enough knowledge to check the oil time by time. But when a person ask what oil is the best or what oil to use, I'll just tell him/her to use synthetic, because worry he/she will use mineral till 10k km

Oil is not as important as the temporarture control, especially in Malaysia climate. And not every person will monitor the temperature. Higher fuel consumption, engine failure and etc mostly cause by high temp.

 

[Izso]

I see a potential flaw in those tests.

- Engine oil has an optimum temperature before it does its job 100%. Which is why people always say engine damage happens during startup. Which is also why people also say don't beat your engine like a wild duck when your engine is cold. So this test is done in.... room temperature? Not really a fair comparison.

- Room temperature is not engine temperature. That's why we have thermostats to faster heat up the engine. Again, this test is done in room temperature. Not a fair comparison.

If you're gonna test this sort of test, heat up the oil to optimum running temperature first before testing it like that and then see if Royal Purple still stays on top. The TBN for RP is not very high and in most cases (personal experience) I find RP does not last very long and breaks down after about 6000km at most (UOA kit tested and butt dyno) which is really really low for a fully synthetic. Don't get me wrong, it's a great oil, but not really cost effective. If I had that kind of money to burn, I'd use RP for engine flushing since its detergents are so bloody fantastic.


anyway RX7 folks - I want to ask some general questions. Say I'm interested in getting a FD and in todays market it's impossible to find a unmolested one, on first glance how do I know if I'm getting a lemon or a gem? Whats the main things to check? So far in all the ones I've viewed, none of the owners agreed to let me test drive (with them in the car la) which I find awfully suspicious. Just fire up the engine, "Oh.. see? The engine sui sui mah" then off engine.

 

[savahn]

It's post #8 in this thread - a write-up by Alchemis.

When in doubt, don't buy. It really depends on the amount of risk you want to take.

 

[kk13]

I see a potential flaw in those tests.

- Engine oil has an optimum temperature before it does its job 100%. Which is why people always say engine damage happens during startup. Which is also why people also say don't beat your engine like a wild duck when your engine is cold. So this test is done in.... room temperature? Not really a fair comparison.

- Room temperature is not engine temperature. That's why we have thermostats to faster heat up the engine. Again, this test is done in room temperature. Not a fair comparison.

If you're gonna test this sort of test, heat up the oil to optimum running temperature first before testing it like that and then see if Royal Purple still stays on top. The TBN for RP is not very high and in most cases (personal experience) I find RP does not last very long and breaks down after about 6000km at most (UOA kit tested and butt dyno) which is really really low for a fully synthetic. Don't get me wrong, it's a great oil, but not really cost effective. If I had that kind of money to burn, I'd use RP for engine flushing since its detergents are so bloody fantastic.


anyway RX7 folks - I want to ask some general questions. Say I'm interested in getting a FD and in todays market it's impossible to find a unmolested one, on first glance how do I know if I'm getting a lemon or a gem? Whats the main things to check? So far in all the ones I've viewed, none of the owners agreed to let me test drive (with them in the car la) which I find awfully suspicious. Just fire up the engine, "Oh.. see? The engine sui sui mah" then off engine.

whats your budget?

 

[Izso]

kk13 : Is there a difference whether higher or lower budget? Looking at the 80k region tops.

Savahn : Yeah I know! Thank god for this thread. Lots of useful info here.

 

[kk13]

kk13 : Is there a difference whether higher or lower budget? Looking at the 80k region tops.

Savahn : Yeah I know! Thank god for this thread. Lots of useful info here.

of course bro...

50-60k you can get a unmodified one where the condition might not be so good...

70-80k you can get a done one in good condition

 

[Izso]

That's the thing.. I want untouched. Non-modded. And that's nearly impossible to find.

 

[phat7]

non modded original should actually fetch a better price!!

 

[kk13]

yeah but not that much off a difference...a fren of mine bought a completely stock 95, very good condition two years bac...he paid arun 60k...

 

[Izso]

slowly slowly.. I will take my time.

---------- Post added at 07:33 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:30 AM ----------

Oh hey one more thing.. is it really true, your road tax is the same as a normal 1.3?

 

[Ry0suke]

Yeah its true!!!^^

 

[SideWaysGrey]

[/COLOR]Oh hey one more thing.. is it really true, your road tax is the same as a normal 1.3?

hahaha...why would u think it isnt ?

 

[Izso]

hahaha...why would u think it isnt ?

I know the G is stupid but didn't know they were that stupid. Thought they had some sort of different taxing system for sports cars. Anyway, it's good to hear 1.3 road tax.

 

[Ry0suke]

yes... they were that stupid xD
lol

 

[phat7]

yeah but not that much off a difference...a fren of mine bought a completely stock 95, very good condition two years bac...he paid arun 60k...

Kevin- your friend got a really good buy. when looking at cars, i will always choose to purchase a standard one or at least one with some standard work done to the engine for reliability. Bodykits, a big no no due to many factors like if there were installed correctly (rust etc), standard bodykit is fine if its plug and play. A good example is when we were looking for a w124 merc for my brother. The original masterpiece will always fecth a better price because the bumpers etc were factory fitted vs converted ones, 1 year difference can sometimes be 20k. Thats a lot for a car thats worth 40-50k.

 

[AE75]

May I know RE need to use with 2T or not? I saw some people are using it, and some are nope. So in standard requirement, does it need?