Rotary Engines - FAQ.

[Izso]

I see a potential flaw in those tests.

- Engine oil has an optimum temperature before it does its job 100%. Which is why people always say engine damage happens during startup. Which is also why people also say don't beat your engine like a wild duck when your engine is cold. So this test is done in.... room temperature? Not really a fair comparison.

- Room temperature is not engine temperature. That's why we have thermostats to faster heat up the engine. Again, this test is done in room temperature. Not a fair comparison.

If you're gonna test this sort of test, heat up the oil to optimum running temperature first before testing it like that and then see if Royal Purple still stays on top. The TBN for RP is not very high and in most cases (personal experience) I find RP does not last very long and breaks down after about 6000km at most (UOA kit tested and butt dyno) which is really really low for a fully synthetic. Don't get me wrong, it's a great oil, but not really cost effective. If I had that kind of money to burn, I'd use RP for engine flushing since its detergents are so bloody fantastic.


anyway RX7 folks - I want to ask some general questions. Say I'm interested in getting a FD and in todays market it's impossible to find a unmolested one, on first glance how do I know if I'm getting a lemon or a gem? Whats the main things to check? So far in all the ones I've viewed, none of the owners agreed to let me test drive (with them in the car la) which I find awfully suspicious. Just fire up the engine, "Oh.. see? The engine sui sui mah" then off engine.

 

[savahn]

It's post #8 in this thread - a write-up by Alchemis.

When in doubt, don't buy. It really depends on the amount of risk you want to take.

 

[kk13]

I see a potential flaw in those tests.

- Engine oil has an optimum temperature before it does its job 100%. Which is why people always say engine damage happens during startup. Which is also why people also say don't beat your engine like a wild duck when your engine is cold. So this test is done in.... room temperature? Not really a fair comparison.

- Room temperature is not engine temperature. That's why we have thermostats to faster heat up the engine. Again, this test is done in room temperature. Not a fair comparison.

If you're gonna test this sort of test, heat up the oil to optimum running temperature first before testing it like that and then see if Royal Purple still stays on top. The TBN for RP is not very high and in most cases (personal experience) I find RP does not last very long and breaks down after about 6000km at most (UOA kit tested and butt dyno) which is really really low for a fully synthetic. Don't get me wrong, it's a great oil, but not really cost effective. If I had that kind of money to burn, I'd use RP for engine flushing since its detergents are so bloody fantastic.


anyway RX7 folks - I want to ask some general questions. Say I'm interested in getting a FD and in todays market it's impossible to find a unmolested one, on first glance how do I know if I'm getting a lemon or a gem? Whats the main things to check? So far in all the ones I've viewed, none of the owners agreed to let me test drive (with them in the car la) which I find awfully suspicious. Just fire up the engine, "Oh.. see? The engine sui sui mah" then off engine.

whats your budget?

 

[Izso]

kk13 : Is there a difference whether higher or lower budget? Looking at the 80k region tops.

Savahn : Yeah I know! Thank god for this thread. Lots of useful info here.

 

[kk13]

kk13 : Is there a difference whether higher or lower budget? Looking at the 80k region tops.

Savahn : Yeah I know! Thank god for this thread. Lots of useful info here.

of course bro...

50-60k you can get a unmodified one where the condition might not be so good...

70-80k you can get a done one in good condition

 

[Izso]

That's the thing.. I want untouched. Non-modded. And that's nearly impossible to find.

 

[phat7]

non modded original should actually fetch a better price!!

 

[kk13]

yeah but not that much off a difference...a fren of mine bought a completely stock 95, very good condition two years bac...he paid arun 60k...

 

[Izso]

slowly slowly.. I will take my time.

---------- Post added at 07:33 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:30 AM ----------

Oh hey one more thing.. is it really true, your road tax is the same as a normal 1.3?

 

[Ry0suke]

Yeah its true!!!^^

 

[SideWaysGrey]

[/COLOR]Oh hey one more thing.. is it really true, your road tax is the same as a normal 1.3?

hahaha...why would u think it isnt ?

 

[Izso]

hahaha...why would u think it isnt ?

I know the G is stupid but didn't know they were that stupid. Thought they had some sort of different taxing system for sports cars. Anyway, it's good to hear 1.3 road tax.

 

[Ry0suke]

yes... they were that stupid xD
lol

 

[phat7]

yeah but not that much off a difference...a fren of mine bought a completely stock 95, very good condition two years bac...he paid arun 60k...

Kevin- your friend got a really good buy. when looking at cars, i will always choose to purchase a standard one or at least one with some standard work done to the engine for reliability. Bodykits, a big no no due to many factors like if there were installed correctly (rust etc), standard bodykit is fine if its plug and play. A good example is when we were looking for a w124 merc for my brother. The original masterpiece will always fecth a better price because the bumpers etc were factory fitted vs converted ones, 1 year difference can sometimes be 20k. Thats a lot for a car thats worth 40-50k.

 

[AE75]

May I know RE need to use with 2T or not? I saw some people are using it, and some are nope. So in standard requirement, does it need?