Old style discussion but we like it....next step to mod?

[kUmUcHaI 11/1]

First at all...apologize if my English is too Kampungish..

Just like every old style discussion, the thing start like this..

Due to too many vtec kaki friends surrounding me, keep talking about B20B lah..B16B lah..whp 200+ lah..the racun is just too strong...my virgin R finally out of its stock

i has done - open type filter, change my twin pipe to single exhaust " no brand " from mid and of cos Hondata K100.

Below attached my dyno for my K20A ? Sifu - sifu, may be you all can comment about the power output ? ( i saw a dropped of output at around 5000-6000rpm ? Anything can correct it ? )
whp 209
torque 21
Dyno RON95
Car age 04/10

Next step you all suggest ?

( My friends all tell me to change Toda cam and clutch ? )

By the way, if you all willing to showed your K20A dyno graph and modded part...very appreciate it..
Weekend coming.. everyone REV HARD...
Thank you.. enjoy the discussion.. i hoped

 

[arrowhead]

k24 block hahahahaha

 

[unkle_uber]

how much are you willing to spend ? thats the ultimate question.

You have not done headers/extractors which will gain at least about 10whp to 15whp depending on which brand u go for.

 

[kUmUcHaI 11/1]

ya ya.. forget too..
about 10k i guess
i had ask for Toda cam price .. about 4k..just not sure whether to get it as next step...

by the way, is it normal for the 5000-6000rpm power dropped?
cant feel it when driving..

planned to do de- cat first... this weekend... see how is the high end power gain

My friend all has not problem with B20B... but i still feel scare for K24A... durability issue mainly...

Has a friend using K24A in FD2R..just newly knew him...no problem with it...but i think it is because he used quite high end stuff maybe...

 

[unkle_uber]

power drop is normal, that just means your car is not making any more power in that power band/rev range. A camshaft would help that problem, it broadens your power band. Depending which cams you get, u can improve your torque or top end power, or both.

If i were you, get a branded headers/extractors, delete your cats, get some cams ( you have to do your research ) and then a retune. This should squeeze out another 30whp i would imagine.

But if you're willing to spend 10k, i would suggest turbo charging it :) Vtec to me is just all the LAG and none of the Turbo boost. To solve this problem, turbo charging is your best friend. Just imagine Vtec kicking in + Boost kicking in.

10k should get you a decent turbo kit. Turbo charging an N/A is my ultimate recommendation, you can shut your friends up with whatever bullshit they say.

 

[dfx16]

Most stock K20A with stock header does 180 ~ 190 whp
Only for FD2R they does 190 ~ 200 whp

Your result look too good to be true for a almost stock set up with Ron 95
K20A stock dyno sheet for your reference

Stock CL7R @ 185 whp on a Dyno Dynamic
Vtec Engage @ 5800rpm
Rev Cut @ 8600rpm

Stock DC5R @ 187 whp on a Dynojet
Vtec Engage @ 6200rpm
Rev Cut @ 8600rpm

 

[kUmUcHaI 11/1]

dfx16 - the above graph without Hondata k100 right?

My K20 previously also 180+ whp stock ( CL7R ) - without hondata.

but after hondata and open pod filter and single exhaust - then 209whp

My friend FD2R even higher output without header and extractor

During weekend...i read thru so much.. even read about the Hondata tuning program online... it is very very complicated...trying to figure out.. ( Lucky my K100 cant tune...if not...i think my car spoiled already by me self tuning..haha )

I even went to Honda.NZ and read thru their forum...some crazy foreigner can even transplant engine by themself
( i heard before but cant imagine they can done it by themself .. K24A in EG somemore )
..settle wiring..everything and successful...got a larger shock in my life...salute them

To unkle_uber and dfx16 :
wanna ask...i plan to collect part by part by myself...
prefer high rev still, rather than charger...

Can provide the list of items needed? as you all familiar

Ask my tuner...k24 need Rm15k - passed you the completed car k24

About RM 10k i willing to put in...durable..2.2 stroke kit / k24 combined?
cam? stroke kit ? +++

( Saw the FN2R in marketplace with 2.2 stroke kit...mugen lagi )

Sign...i need more power...

 

[dfx16]

CL7R with Fcon
DC5R with Kpro

Both fine tune flat spot only

BTW what Dyno machine u run with?
Dyno Dynamic and Dynojet are known to loss between 15 ~ 20% drivetrain

If u prefer high rev u shouldnt lower your Vtec engage point
Your chart is somewhere 4600rpm engage and ease off somewhere 7600rpm

If u had noticed both CL7R and DC5R fine tune flat spot and left VTC untouch

 

[kUmUcHaI 11/1]

i dont know what dyno they using...on the graph it has " correction method : JIS " and some " PSI-4 B1 "

i didnt follow the tuner go for dyno.. it is the 2 wheel dyno at Torque racing JB ... i think

Last time has a CL7R senior here that selling his K24A powered CL7R - regret didnt buy from him now
...didnt see he online nowadays...
if not then just ask for his list then i get the part myself..sign

planned to do 2.2 stroke kit...cheaper kua...can get 300whp i satisfied..

I also noticed the power changes associated with vtec engagement point...i told the tuner to do initially...bcos i dont know power dropped at end...now de-cat suppose to be better ...i think...

After i change 2.2 or 2.4 then let you all know...Finding part first...

---------- Post added at 12:01 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:00 AM ----------

you seen to know better .. you are tuner is it ?

 

[dfx16]

No.. but i been thru quite a few engines from Honda ~ Toyota ~ Suzuki ~ Honda from NA ~ Turbo ~ NA
Trails and errors over the years
Expensive hobby :motz:

 

[kUmUcHaI 11/1]

i mean power changes on dyno graph..cant feel it when driving...just feeling the car more responsive

---------- Post added at 12:28 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:18 AM ----------

wah...changing car so frequently.....haha....

i only can give you noob advice....keep 1 car and tuned it to the max...sell or not in future, nevermind that time

i changed my EK to CL7 but my friend, B20b ek...smoked me always lah...missed the light weight..high rev Bseries

recently then i meet kazama boss then finally give me some hope that his FD2r modification is quite reliable, no problem so far
but tuning cost..." make me scared "

sign...sikit sikit wang..lama lama jadi K24a

haha....

pm me where you from...next time got any interesting crazy thing that i done then show you...nice to meet you, bro

 

[ddv_nk12]

i dont know what dyno they using...on the graph it has " correction method : JIS " and some " PSI-4 B1 "

i didnt follow the tuner go for dyno.. it is the 2 wheel dyno at Torque racing JB ... i think

Last time has a CL7R senior here that selling his K24A powered CL7R - regret didnt buy from him now
...didnt see he online nowadays...
if not then just ask for his list then i get the part myself..sign

planned to do 2.2 stroke kit...cheaper kua...can get 300whp i satisfied..

I also noticed the power changes associated with vtec engagement point...i told the tuner to do initially...bcos i dont know power dropped at end...now de-cat suppose to be better ...i think...

After i change 2.2 or 2.4 then let you all know...Finding part first...

---------- Post added at 12:01 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:00 AM ----------

you seen to know better .. you are tuner is it ?

The dyno results in Torque Racing is higher than other places. In JB, the dyno results always tend to be higher than KL. I don't blame if others may think that your dyno results are high.

 

[kUmUcHaI 11/1]

ddv_nk12:
haha...feel weird too...cant be so much different in N/A without much modification

i checked out your build thread before...nice.

 

[dfx16]

i mean power changes on dyno graph..cant feel it when driving...just feeling the car more responsive

---------- Post added at 12:28 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:18 AM ----------

wah...changing car so frequently.....haha....

i only can give you noob advice....keep 1 car and tuned it to the max...sell or not in future, nevermind that time

i changed my EK to CL7 but my friend, B20b ek...smoked me always lah...missed the light weight..high rev Bseries

recently then i meet kazama boss then finally give me some hope that his FD2r modification is quite reliable, no problem so far
but tuning cost..." make me scared "

sign...sikit sikit wang..lama lama jadi K24a

haha....

pm me where you from...next time got any interesting crazy thing that i done then show you...nice to meet you, bro

I'm your neighbour (SG) too far for TT

 

[kUmUcHaI 11/1]

Still running on stock wheel...

Asking for RPF1 17 inch x 8 from shop .... 4.4K... anyone? ok price ?
I have been hearing - nowadays some enkei rim no more Japan made, some from Thailand..? is it?

survey done it only weight 16lbs = 7kg +....

what offset good for CL7?

---------- Post added at 11:22 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:20 PM ----------

http://www.enkei.com/size_chart/RPF1.pdf

---------- Post added at 11:25 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:22 PM ----------

need to clear 4pots....

 

[kUmUcHaI 11/1]

My dear friend all - strange enough - i used part of my money to changes my clutch, rim
Going to get a brake kit soon but but but...

But after changing the clutch - the car shaking so bad if it started moving from static -
( if i didnt press the throttle high - >>2500rpm )
Using exedy

?? why why ??

---------- Post added at 09:25 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:24 PM ----------

Help me..kawan kawan

 

[mADmAN]

if its race clutch...its actually quite normal

 

[shiroitenshi]

My dear friend all - strange enough - i used part of my money to changes my clutch, rim
Going to get a brake kit soon but but but...

But after changing the clutch - the car shaking so bad if it started moving from static -
( if i didnt press the throttle high - >>2500rpm )
Using exedy

?? why why ??

---------- Post added at 09:25 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:24 PM ----------

Help me..kawan kawan

Exedy clutch what type? Racing clutch?
All racing clutches like that. The clutch bite is not progressive, so you get the shake as the clutch 'grabs and slips' as you release the clutch.

Even Exedy organic clutch stage 1 if you use with lightweight flywheel, will shake real bad when moving from static.

 

[dfx16]

Previously with Exedy i also experience jerking, clutch feel heavy also
Now i'm with ORC, no jerk and almost stock feel

 

[ehdrian]

Yeah super singles are definitely easier for the left foot and less jerks because wat u pay is wat u get..

 

[dfx16]

Yes ORC is good stuff if one had budget

 

[kUmUcHaI 11/1]

My one is racing clutch, biasa one...not the super single.
It do bite a little bit more than last time....
But it has some sound of metal friction also...ci ci ci...like that.
Has to step on the throttle more then no more jerking but ci ci ci still will be there..
My mechanic said the ci ci ci should not be there..sending car to him tomorrow

Sifu sifu..one more thing...do you think getting brake kit from other cars will be safe...?
Am think of of getting brembo or ap racing but both can't direct fit on my car..need mod...
How is second hand brake kit life also...are there really will leak fluid or what ( how to test ? ) time buying them for sure will be clean.
And they are not mono block... So it might be leaking right ? From piston or maybe joint.

Sad thing is no money to buy one lah

---------- Post added at 12:44 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:39 AM ----------

Buy new one

 

[dfx16]

It always good to have BBK imho stock brake is not responsive when there's 2 of more passengers
I'm with Endless it seem like a cult to have BBK over here
Refer here for pix SUZUKI SWIFT: CL7R

 

[shiroitenshi]

Brake kit from other cars, if modded properly will work.

One problem with modding is that the disc isn't centered properly, so you get vibration at higher speeds, if done properly, should be no problem. Another is clearance with rims. Certain rims cannot fit monoblock/twinblock caliper due to spoke design.

Brake function isn't 100% caliper only. Brake pad compound is also a factor. I tried before cheap pads, brake worked quite okay, but wasn't as good as expensive ones. It also ate my rotor, so in the end, it wasn't as cheap as it appeared at first.

 

[kUmUcHaI 11/1]

Getting ap kit. Thank you every one. Scare like hell when drive fast with stock brake. Some more stock disc always bend after aggressive drive few months