k series into b series engine bay

[dcloo]

whats u guy thinking on k-series swap to ek/eg body?
using haltech k20a/k24a gsr(black top) t04e 20g AR 70 turbo 5 speed manual
the cost to built full mod b20b (piston/cam/close ratio++)N/A was same

wats u guy think....
which was the better.....
i terms of WHP was lots of different on the problem how it could lasting
if compare to b20 N/A

 

[bien335]

FI K > N/A B

come on man, turbo = massive gobs of driveshaft twisting torque.

but it all depends on what u want man.

a fully built F-series (F22a, SOHC, non-VTEC) can see more than 250 whp. im sure a B-series can get similar performance figures.

only god knows how much u can get from a turbo.

 

[caleb_5375]

i saw at youtube many eg owner done tis ...fitting a K series to their eg chasis....
but the two setup u comparing is a turbo vs a Na....and i am definately agree on bro bien355 ....coz tis two setup give power on different stage rite....

hehe dcloo y not u try it leh....wait u do lor ...haha

 

[shiroitenshi]

well, easy to compare, at first, then when you tack on the price of high hp driveshafts, it's not so cheap anymore.

Even a 250whp B series can break the stock driveshaft on repeated drag runs. The only reason it doesn't happen so often is because more often that not, we get wheelspin than driveshaft twisting torque.

The K series pose a few problems, and that is mainly cost.

I dunno, but I'd like A/C on a daily driver, and with the K engine costing more than 20K, plonking it into a near stock chassis I think it's not a great idea, esp. if there is the word 'limited' budget.

With 20K, you can get a great handling B16B with a lot of drivetrain mods, like chassis stiffening, polybushes, good suspension, etc.

You need to get a couple of things from various models to come up with a daily driven K series in an EG, with a/c and p/steering.

If not daily driven I think very possible to do cheap, since we can omit a lot of extraneous stuff like climate control, etc. etc, and we can use aftermarket meters rather than retaining the stock EG dash, which brings a lot of costs down in terms of getting/modding harness, etc.

But I'm sure you already checked out how much a stage 3 driveshaft costs, right, so I guess when you compare the cost, the B-series is a lot cheaper when you target big horsepower, and also purchase related equipment to handle that kind of power.

I'd look forward to seeing how you manage the power, because 250 and up whp on a front wheel drive doesn't actually 'want' to go straight, because of various issues like LCA and chassis flex. Suspension tuning becomes critical then, and so is chassis reinforcement.

For us, a K-series is very expensive, while for mat salleh, a USDM K-series with vtec (not the crippled K20A3) is damn near the price of a JDM B18C and it's related parts. And best of all, they can pass smog easily.

But when you talk about potential wise, yeah, the K series can probably generate a lot more horsepower, but for less cash? I don't think so.

For a dedicated drag vehicle, I think the K is the next big thing, for daily drivers, people here rather buy new car for the status symbol.

 

[fobs]

For a dedicated drag vehicle, I think the K is the next big thing, for daily drivers, people here rather buy new car for the status symbol.

people who intend to buy the CL7 hahaharrrrr!!!

 

[evoX2]

turbo charged a k20a rojak k24a and put in a eg/ek chassis is the same cost as a fully modded b20b?? I thought the former will be cost much more.

 

[dcloo]

turbo charged a k20a rojak k24a and put in a eg/ek chassis is the same cost as a fully modded b20b?? I thought the former will be cost much more.

i have already checked all the item n price with putting a k20a gsr+5 speed turbo gearbox the price same as a fully mod b20b/b18c r n/a setup cost or $$ ar same maybe just 3-5 k diffrent on hidden cost
the aircond /power steering all was working well as stock

 

[dcloo]

well, easy to compare, at first, then when you tack on the price of high hp driveshafts, it's not so cheap anymore.

Even a 250whp B series can break the stock driveshaft on repeated drag runs. The only reason it doesn't happen so often is because more often that not, we get wheelspin than driveshaft twisting torque.

The K series pose a few problems, and that is mainly cost.

I dunno, but I'd like A/C on a daily driver, and with the K engine costing more than 20K, plonking it into a near stock chassis I think it's not a great idea, esp. if there is the word 'limited' budget.

With 20K, you can get a great handling B16B with a lot of drivetrain mods, like chassis stiffening, polybushes, good suspension, etc.

You need to get a couple of things from various models to come up with a daily driven K series in an EG, with a/c and p/steering.

If not daily driven I think very possible to do cheap, since we can omit a lot of extraneous stuff like climate control, etc. etc, and we can use aftermarket meters rather than retaining the stock EG dash, which brings a lot of costs down in terms of getting/modding harness, etc.

But I'm sure you already checked out how much a stage 3 driveshaft costs, right, so I guess when you compare the cost, the B-series is a lot cheaper when you target big horsepower, and also purchase related equipment to handle that kind of power.

I'd look forward to seeing how you manage the power, because 250 and up whp on a front wheel drive doesn't actually 'want' to go straight, because of various issues like LCA and chassis flex. Suspension tuning becomes critical then, and so is chassis reinforcement.

For us, a K-series is very expensive, while for mat salleh, a USDM K-series with vtec (not the crippled K20A3) is damn near the price of a JDM B18C and it's related parts. And best of all, they can pass smog easily.

But when you talk about potential wise, yeah, the K series can probably generate a lot more horsepower, but for less cash? I don't think so.

For a dedicated drag vehicle, I think the K is the next big thing, for daily drivers, people here rather buy new car for the status symbol.

price comparison target 250 whp or more

k20a gsr(black top) turbo
engine rm 3500 engine+ gearbox
head -
piston forced rm 2400 8.5:1 cr wesico
con rod stock
cam stock
camgear rm 1200 toda
valve spring/retainer stock
ecu/management rm 4700 haltech e6x
ezos manifold rm 1300 (custom)
intake manifold stock
injector rm 300 evo 450 cc
turbo rm 2500 garret t04e/hks 2835
gearbox -
clutch system rm 3300 toda/ogura
ratio stock
timing belt use chain
mounting hasport k24 swap rm 3600
engineering shop 500++/less
intercooler& piping rm 2500
total rm 25800

B20b vtech N/A
engine rm 800
head rm 600
forced piston rm 2300 wesico 13.3:1 CR
con rod stock
cam rm 2900 jun 3/toda
cam gear rm 950 toda
valve spring/retainer rm 1400 jun/toda
ecu/management rm 3000 hondata
ezos manifold rm 1300 Mugen/spoon
intake manifold rm 1500 itr
injector rm 450 b20b 330 cc
turbo -
gearbox ctr/itr 2600
ratio ats/spoon rm 3100
clutch system rm 2500 ogura
timing belt rm 530 toda/power
engine mouting rm 1300 mugen/js
intercooler& piping -
engineering shop rm 1600(block guard+bla)
total rm 25230




both of the item also have some hidden cost some like about cam seal/valve seal/main bearing/fuel regulator/labor some small small parts where not include inside where from rm 2k-5k

u can see the price was not much different
all parts was count in new item where only compare apple with apple
don't talk any about 2nd hand/ used item
this way we talking about some amount of budget if gain to setup

but in term of power ..... must fun from the G feels...

 

[evoX2]

ic, i thought you will be running k20a type R one.
So roughly how many whp of this 2 engine will produced? u build this engine for what purpose? track or drag?

 

[lan evo]

loo:i tot u post a k24 engine for sale,take that engine and stroke to 2600cc

saw a honda fit in us super street magazine with k24 engine and stroke to 2600cc then turbo and nos

if not mistaken without nos the car whp was 600whp

 

[dcloo]

loo:i tot u post a k24 engine for sale,take that engine and stroke to 2600cc

saw a honda fit in us super street magazine with k24 engine and stroke to 2600cc then turbo and nos

if not mistaken without nos the car whp was 600whp

if i take the k24a i will destroke to 2.2+cc N/A n safe rev up to 12k rpm the problem only m'sia can't get the cam +valve+ valve spring n retainer to hold up to so high rpm

the k20a turbo can generate up to 300 whp or maybe more but base line should got 250 whp, thats why lots of US ppl hybrid their k series swap
to civic body but at m'sia maybe parts was most hard to get n $$ was most important All of this mod where going to gain on G-force

the k24a can big bore up to 90 mm piston so its can easily get 2600 cc
if u have do some research about k series engine its got lots to unlock

maybe now K - series engine was no popular in m'sia maybe later MALAYSIA BOLEH skill will get somethings new on it since b-series parts started fade n price raise up. But i will waiting for this days come its proud malaysian vtech spirit

 

[lan evo]

rev to 12k gao lan meh

im talking about turbo ma,turbo no need rev so high to get power

 

[dcloo]

rev to 12k gao lan meh

im talking about turbo ma,turbo no need rev so high to get power

if turbo can rev up to 12k rpm i think can generate 1000 whp or more
n the turbo bigger then ur head can install to the car...:P

 

[lightningfield]

[youtube]M4kJpOXTcIc[/youtube]

imagine having this for your daily ride..

 

[hattech-v]

hehhehehe... faster2 do it...
can test later...

 

[sasuke]

Wah K20A Turbo wo...

 

[lightningfield]

the traction seems very good. like all wheel drive. haha.

 

[SKYR]

That's good to see, come on dcloo, do it faster leh, then I can try later on..

 

[shiroitenshi]

price comparison target 250 whp or more

k20a gsr(black top) turbo
engine rm 3500 engine+ gearbox
head -
piston forced rm 2400 8.5:1 cr wesico
con rod stock
cam stock
camgear rm 1200 toda
valve spring/retainer stock
ecu/management rm 4700 haltech e6x
ezos manifold rm 1300 (custom)
intake manifold stock
injector rm 300 evo 450 cc
turbo rm 2500 garret t04e/hks 2835
gearbox -
clutch system rm 3300 toda/ogura
ratio stock
timing belt use chain
mounting hasport k24 swap rm 3600
engineering shop 500++/less
intercooler& piping rm 2500
total rm 25800

B20b vtech N/A
engine rm 800
head rm 600
forced piston rm 2300 wesico 13.3:1 CR
con rod stock
cam rm 2900 jun 3/toda
cam gear rm 950 toda
valve spring/retainer rm 1400 jun/toda
ecu/management rm 3000 hondata
ezos manifold rm 1300 Mugen/spoon
intake manifold rm 1500 itr
injector rm 450 b20b 330 cc
turbo -
gearbox ctr/itr 2600
ratio ats/spoon rm 3100
clutch system rm 2500 ogura
timing belt rm 530 toda/power
engine mouting rm 1300 mugen/js
intercooler& piping -
engineering shop rm 1600(block guard+bla)
total rm 25230




both of the item also have some hidden cost some like about cam seal/valve seal/main bearing/fuel regulator/labor some small small parts where not include inside where from rm 2k-5k

u can see the price was not much different
all parts was count in new item where only compare apple with apple
don't talk any about 2nd hand/ used item
this way we talking about some amount of budget if gain to setup

but in term of power ..... must fun from the G feels...

Naturally, the fun is in the G feels, but you put K series GSR.. with head. I wonder if the GSR head is any good, because it seems like they're always being ditched for the R version.

The R head will toss the budget way off, and not to mention the harness conversion.

The wiring will be a hidden cost. if you do it yourself, it will be cheap, to have shop do for you, it won't be.

BTW, stock B20B boosted can be cheaper too, make 2bar, then see how long the engine last.

even a boosted B16A can make lots of hp, but waiting for turbo to spool... hmm.. if drag, can use anti lag, but when daily driving, how?

In the end, if you're going the K way, it's all good, B series is good too.

Let me know if you can get JPJ approval for K series into EG/DC/EK chassis. Some people want to do it, but they want it legalized.

 

[dcloo]

The wiring will be a hidden cost. if you do it yourself, it will be cheap, to have shop do for you, it won't be.

BTW, stock B20B boosted can be cheaper too, make 2bar, then see how long the engine last.

even a boosted B16A can make lots of hp, but waiting for turbo to spool... hmm.. if drag, can use anti lag, but when daily driving, how?

Let me know if you can get JPJ approval for K series into EG/DC/EK chassis. Some people want to do it, but they want it legalized.

if u taking the after market ECU such like microtech/haltech installation charge will rm 700 exclude tuning or if u have some little theory about engine just like our shiro brothers u can follow the installation manual book to install by your self
its not touching any of ur body harness just the engine harness...

BTW the b series was early 1990's technology y we don't go for Y2k technology engine its should more advance n lots of feature to turn
of course k series also have weakness but its solve more from the experience from b series
example : 86 x 86 square block ,the block brace was more bigger on k series n bla bla bla....

this oredi 2 ppl at kl was approved by jpj from b to k series as i know was 1 ek(done 2 years++ ago) n 1 was ef (done last October)
and another ek was coming soon
the car now transplant at sunway XXXXX garage
should be mid of January will done the transplant

i have checked n confirm any eg/ek/dc 2 from d/b series to k20/24 was can get approval from jpj inspection thats just like d to b
only if going to k24 u have to pay little much cause the engine capacity extended more thats jpj approved