EG clubs/owner etc

[peterj]

my place here, all those b20 targeting and hit 230whp ++ lol, maybe all not track, but drag, lol......... but that day i even saw a guy with top fuel turbo kit similar like mine, b20 vtec turbo somemore, lagi power lagi best, tambah gt wing boleh terbang..lol

 

[mADmAN]

lol....i can probably touch 230whp.....but need cams...now on stock B18C-R cams only :P

 

[spoon civic]

search all over here found EK and EF owner...was wondering why there is no Honda Club ??
sorry for my question coz i'm new to ZTH

---------- Post added at 07:19 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:16 PM ----------

or maybe CIVIC will do...doesn't matter EG/EK/EF/EJ and so on...

gud question..i'm searching for honda club in zth too..not found too..i'm also newbie here..if there pls invite us to that group,so that we can share our knowledge...................

 

[peterj]

here is the club man

 

[spoon civic]

fooh...mega rebuild...for the bore.. i would follow recommended settings though...too tight worry ur sleeves might get super scratched. and engine feel heavy like shiro mentioned. best to wait for him to answer as i dont have much experience with wiseco

got me car tuned on crome last saturday... FINALLY broke the 200whp barrier on the dynojet.... got max at 203.....but brought it down to 200 to make it abit more safer for track use... B20 very the manja hahahhahaha

The most important was tuning and setting..we all know b20 are manja a bit comparing b18cr..but my frenz car using b18cr engine piston 83mm wiseco piston,head port polish full balancing,got scratch at block for piston no3,trouble shoot that the tuning that 'api lebih"..the car was fast,rpm very fast up...so the main thing is tuning are very important..air,fuel must setting ngam2....previuosly got 203hp for this engine before engine jammedddd...................

 

[shiroitenshi]

but sifu shiro.... suggested clearance, 0.0025" = 0.0635mm ... is like nothing already, my mech say no nid bore la, sumbat saja.. what u think?

Depends on where you measure, you can see where they recommend measuring for the clearance on the spec sheet. Can try run looser a bit, like 0.0030-0.0035. 0.0025 is kind of tight. If NA, I'd probably run the 0.0025 recommendation, but not for turbo. You should always check with wiseco as well. Remember to tell them that our ambient temps are usually in the mid 30s to 40s degrees celcius when on the road, and how much boost you expect to run. I think they'd recommend running looser as well, but email them to confirm anyway.

Anyway, if sumbat only, where are you going to get your ring seal? If you do like that, sure the engine will run, but your engine will also consume oil really quick. (think "4 litres" of engine oil top up in two weeks if you drive a lot) Need to rebore and rehone at the minimum if you want engine to last, need to check if they all can fit the minimum 0.0025-30 (or whatever clearance you choose) The pistons are EXACTLY round or have the exact width at skirts, so if you don't check properly, one of them will be 'tighter' than the other, and that's the one piston that's going to give problems later on when you apply boost, which makes a lot of heat, and that clearance will reduce to zero or less than zero, then clunk! If you escape with scored sleeves, consider yourself lucky. If clearances check out and you don't need to rebore, must still at least get a bore hone, that's for your oil control ring seal. (they aren't built like the top two compression rings)

Make sure you get a good machine shop to do the work though, had a head and block spoiled by a incompetent one before. With honda engines, everything must be in spec or you'll always think the engine is unreliable because it keeps spoiling. You wrongly torque the main caps also the crank will start to eat the bearings. Each piston not exactly round also, so the machine shop should be able to check for roundness, and bore accordingly to the specs. Just remember that the clearances they put on the sheet is the 'minimum', in real life, it will always be a bit looser, but we want the minimum so the piston don't seize when it sees a lot of heat, that's all.Don't go too loose however, or when starting in the morning, the engine will be plenty noisy.

If you want to see the process of building engine, this is a good source. Part 1-3
Evans Tuning GSR Engine Build Tech Article - Part 1 - YouTube
Evans Tuning GSR Engine Build Tech Article - Part 2 - YouTube
Evans Tuning GSR Engine Build Tech Article - Part 3 - YouTube

A lof of people fail to check the oil pump clearance (part 3), so sometimes they kill the oil pump without knowing. (actually not kill, it's just that the oil pump gear part where it meets the crank will start to wear, then when it does enough wear there, it starts to wear the housing. This takes a long time though, but it's the difference between changing oil pump at 200,000kms, or 500,000kms.)
I have a b-series oil pump that has like 350,000kms on it, and it still looks new, and clearances checks out. Damn honda makes this thing crazy lasting.

Also got lots of other videos from him that's very useful, if your mechanic has not much experience with honda engines/transmission/etc.

Nice parts BTW. Good luck with the hondata. Check resistance of injectors before installing. If less than 10ohms, install a resistor box. Let me know the resistance too, I want to compare to some other honda injectors.

 

[mADmAN]

The most important was tuning and setting..we all know b20 are manja a bit comparing b18cr..but my frenz car using b18cr engine piston 83mm wiseco piston,head port polish full balancing,got scratch at block for piston no3,trouble shoot that the tuning that 'api lebih"..the car was fast,rpm very fast up...so the main thing is tuning are very important..air,fuel must setting ngam2....previuosly got 203hp for this engine before engine jammedddd...................

its after tuning i got 200whp....before tuning was 187who only..u should see the before and after graph.... 187 like earthquake... 200 much smoother... was in desperate need of ignition tuning.

scratched sleeves actually pretty common with forged pistons... its the piston to wall slap thing

 

[peterj]

after watch all of that, i begin to worry and cant sleep since my mech might not do most of the works on the video my mech is stubborn , and not that much of ppl know to do car around me... damn

 

[spoon civic]

its after tuning i got 200whp....before tuning was 187who only..u should see the before and after graph.... 187 like earthquake... 200 much smoother... was in desperate need of ignition tuning.

scratched sleeves actually pretty common with forged pistons... its the piston to wall slap thing

first tuning was 183..then after dyno can get 203hp....maybe my frenz car unlucky as its got the problem...now looking for s90 block complte size 84mm..to try new spec to get more power and more hp.....to get the best tuning and power spec,must have high motorsport spirit.....

 

[shiroitenshi]

after watch all of that, i begin to worry and cant sleep since my mech might not do most of the works on the video my mech is stubborn , and not that much of ppl know to do car around me... damn

Haha.. record the video into CD, then 'brainwash' your mechanic.

 

[spoon civic]

Haha.. record the video into CD, then 'brainwash' your mechanic.

hahahahha.................gud way to motivated the mechanic bro...........................

 

[peterj]

most parts are in... but sifu shiro, my mech ask me is my wiseco genuine ? cause he saw ppl last time wiseco piston, the wiseco marking is under the piston, not like mine at the piston skirt... and my piston is really loose, u can see it like got lot of clearance to the piston wall (seriously, no rebore)

 

[mADmAN]

holy shit ur right...that looks loose man....with the piston at TDC, can u move it a lil bit with ur hand??? hold the piston with ur fingers and try and see if it moves or not...coz my supertech doesnt move when i do that...

got a friend who told me that his JE pistons in his old B20B moves around when he does that... makan engine oil kow kow... he said he has to top up engine oil every full tank... gila man

also u playing turbo right? why ur pistons look like high comp 10.5 pistons? why not get the mangkuk one?

 

[shiroitenshi]

holy shit ur right...that looks loose man....with the piston at TDC, can u move it a lil bit with ur hand??? hold the piston with ur fingers and try and see if it moves or not...coz my supertech doesnt move when i do that...

got a friend who told me that his JE pistons in his old B20B moves around when he does that... makan engine oil kow kow... he said he has to top up engine oil every full tank... gila man

also u playing turbo right? why ur pistons look like high comp 10.5 pistons? why not get the mangkuk one?

yep, that is loose but without you putting the pistons at TDC, hard to say how much p2w clearance you have, but it still looks very loose IMO. No way you are going to run those pistons, A lot of noise when engine running for sure not to mention compression and oil seal will be out. As for actual oil and compression sealing, that depends on oil control rings and hone, and also how much compression ring gap with that kind of looseness. But with that kind of looseness. No, it's not going to work. If you can return it, get 82mm, but by the looks of it, you sure you were running 81mm pistons before this? It seems VERY LOOSE. even my b16a with worn liners aren't that loose with 81mm pistons.

Looks like you might have to get a new block, but if you do, make sure you have a dummy head (actually just a piece of metal with holes for the boring tool to torque to the block so that bore deflection when head is torqued is kept at a minimum. Also block guards are supposed to be installed before you bore, not after, if you've never done it that way. When you torque the head, usually the bore will be slightly out of round, minimized with block guard, but not totally eliminated. That's why now even the machine shop I sent my block too has a dummy head to bore, and the blocks they bored can actually hit 9500K safely, and not seize up even when water temps sometimes hit 110C.

And madman, with B16a block and 77mm stock stroke, that is not high comp. It is high comp only, if it has a 89mm (or more) stroker and/or bigger than 84 mm bore.

PeterJ, those are new version wisecos, marking now placed at piston skirts. Dunno about you, but my wisecos from 2 years ago also started having the logo at skirts already, so it's not really new versions already. :P

 

[peterj]

shit is going serious, i will try moving it later when it is TDC , i hope it is the photo taking angle caused the gap look wide since i sengek a bit, it must be 81mm since i nvr bore the block since i have the engine transplanted...

and madman, this is the 9.0 flat comp piston i get, not high comp, flat in same height level as the block when TDC.....and i will using 2mm gasket also....

 

[shiroitenshi]

Yeah, the gaps would look wider the lower the piston goes, but that's also the problem, you don't want it too wide at the bottom, because if it is, the piston would rock on the way up, and you will see the skirts bottom edges wearing first, rather than a sort of even wear on the piston skirt, in addition to the oil burning problem mentioned earlier.

BTW, where you get the 2mm gasket? I've been looking for one last year, but cannot find, thickest was 1mm. What brand is it?
or OEM gasket x2?

BTW, you sure you want to lower the compression with 9.0 comp pistons? B16A low end is not that great, and since you 1-4K is used spooling the turbo for boost, aren't you going to kill the low end torque a bit too much?

 

[peterj]

i custom 1, from semenanjung, ppl sold me for rm550.... and got ppl selling blizt 3mm in zth, but dunno the price......

since my main purpose is for dragging (usually at high rpm range) and daily drive reliability (high boost 1.5bar,low boost 1 bar, reliability needed).. i hope it can last me long...

 

[MiNiFans]

Hi to all EG-ers....I encounter a headache problem for quite a period of time
Lowerarm bushes everytime kong,average lifespan around 3-4months....changed around 4-5sets

Last time my mechanic changed Taiwan bushes,then Japan aftermarket...all kong within 3months
Than change workshop to some "Honda Specialist" in JB-(was thinking maybe they got much more experience)
They recommend genuine bushes,but the problem come back n come back again....

Other than that, my front tyres changed around 2sets due to "makan inner tyres"....then I install aerospeed camber kit....same problem come back again....

Aduh,Last 2 weeks I spotted front types makan inner again.
I changed whole lowerarm with bushes,engine mounting LH & Rear,"Satay" and Tie end rod....
When I drove it this morning I feel like something loosen again....aduhhhhh bushes kong again

Does any sifu got any suggestion or solution to solve this headache problem? really pening

 

[peterj]

i hope the miracle really happened master shiro and madman......engine started, run in 350km already...engine sound like stock except the timing belt sound (too tight with power belt)......no smokes,no piston knocking sound , just feel like normal..... but all things will be concluded after i go tuning this coming few days after run in 1000km

 

[shiroitenshi]

i hope the miracle really happened master shiro and madman......engine started, run in 350km already...engine sound like stock except the timing belt sound (too tight with power belt)......no smokes,no piston knocking sound , just feel like normal..... but all things will be concluded after i go tuning this coming few days after run in 1000km

just after install sure no problem one, wait till those break in coating and the rings wear/break in after run in. should start consuming oil then, but if everything okay, then congratulations. In my experience, if not honing the block, it will consume oil later on after swapping pistons in. Did you do the base tune for hondata? make sure not to rich out of boost.