open pod vs drop-in

[10KRPM]

That's true, temps play a big part.

I believe it's something to do with the way the ECU handles fuelling and ignition. Playing with hondata, I realized that even with the stock ECU, the fueling and ignition is compensated depending on IAT as well, which is why cold intakes seems to give better performance.

But if you noticed track cars from various j-manufacturers, they actually run open pods, so I think by reducing compensation on the ECU based on IAT, open pods can achieve the performance as well.

For mine, stock airbox gave me worst performance, but we all know that depending on situation, the mileage may vary. So testing is the best way.

I like AEM's intake, but worries of hydrolock abounds if its used as a daily driver... too many rainwater filled potholes in Malaysia. if 50cc or so of water gets into the engine.. bye bye engine.. (O_o)

Yeah but track cars are different. They've been tuned hardcore for the purpose of only racing. Our cars are still street cars so a lot of R & D and $$ has being spent to run under such conditions. J's and the likes track cars can also run open pod because they're moving continuously so there's always air flowing. On the street, when you're stationary, there's more hot air building up in the engine bay then cool air flowing in.

Yes a believe open pod can give good performance but in my opinion, both open and close box can give equal performance. It comes down to what the car is used for... The only awesome as filter kit is the Mugen V2 Carbon intake. Nothing comes close to it. I've driven a couple of Rs with this and it sounds like it's running an open box. If you slap a J's racing air duct, you get even better results. Leave the intake the stock honda one but no fear, you still use other intakes on. Avoid using aluminium or stainless one because they absorb heat. You're better off with FRP and CF air intakes. My 2 cents

 

[fobs]

bro shiro, u referring to this MSD eh?

 

[darkemperor]

Another example, an MSD billet ignition, you cannot bring in yourself cheaper than what KSP offers. I'm still thinking of getting it, and hopefully ditching the failure prone honda distributor, but my distributor is at 100,000km mileage (plus the halfcut mileage, it's around 200,000km+ and still working (yes, I find it hard to believe myself.)

Most of my friends that had them that long had them failed at least once.. just hope mine survives till I can get the MSD's one, but the price is like double (or more) of that of a new honda original, so save up slow-slow le.

heard on the distributor problem...wonder wat actually cause it to fail compared to other makes? does it because of the max revolution...hapens to one of my fren d16 recently where he changed 2 in a week...n finally found out that actually caused by the ECU. Fault ignition timing and ICM...? realy admire the MSD but buget is limited on basics mods...even the cables and ir combination gives bang for bucks in terms of throtle response..

recently got quote for a pair of S2 magnetic oil sump plug n hondata heat shield locally. Found the price are reasonable considering all the hindering caused if we get it ourself...maybe mags shud be ok for now...

starting with a h22 isnt a good idea considering all the perfomance stuff are rare, wish to have a b16 or k20.

 

[darkemperor]

Yeah but track cars are different. They've been tuned hardcore for the purpose of only racing. Our cars are still street cars so a lot of R & D and $$ has being spent to run under such conditions. J's and the likes track cars can also run open pod because they're moving continuously so there's always air flowing. On the street, when you're stationary, there's more hot air building up in the engine bay then cool air flowing in.

Yes a believe open pod can give good performance but in my opinion, both open and close box can give equal performance. It comes down to what the car is used for... The only awesome as filter kit is the Mugen V2 Carbon intake. Nothing comes close to it. I've driven a couple of Rs with this and it sounds like it's running an open box. If you slap a J's racing air duct, you get even better results. Leave the intake the stock honda one but no fear, you still use other intakes on. Avoid using aluminium or stainless one because they absorb heat. You're better off with FRP and CF air intakes. My 2 cents

wonder how can we ventilate the engine bay for better cooling...since heat is the main efect on effeciency...

 

[J101]

put 2 AEM breathers instead of 1 :p

I like AEM's intake, but worries of hydrolock abounds if its used as a daily driver... too many rainwater filled potholes in Malaysia. if 50cc or so of water gets into the engine.. bye bye engine.. (O_o)

 

[shiroitenshi]

bro shiro, u referring to this MSD eh?

No.. that one still use rotors. The MSD cap is said to have bigger gap for each contact point to prevent 'arc'ing when running big voltage for sparks.

Something to do with voltage requirements to jump the plug gap (this theory, I have absolutely no idea yet)

The one I was referring to is this

Finally, a performance distributor for Honda and Acura engines! This all new Pro-Billet Distributor is designed for the popular Honda/Acura JDM/USDM 1.6/1.7/1.8L B-Series DOHC VTEC Engine platform.
The Pro-Billet Distributor is designed for performance from the inside-out starting with a precise billet aluminum housing. Inside this strong new housing is a ball bearing guide for high rpm stability. Hall effect pickup assemblies are used to improve trigger signals and are also compatible with the factory ECU.
The Distributor uses a small external ignition module that creates a much higher energy spark to the all new Blaster SC coil. This inductive spark also has longer spark duration and even fires multiple times at lower rpm. This increased
spark output improves combustion resulting in improved performance through the entire rpm range.

Part Number PN8488
(lucky, die, lucky lucky? haha.. the chinese should know this)
This one rotorless, and contactless.. the only moving part that sees friction is the bearing.

It uses 'hall-effect' (what a cool 'marketing' name of magnetic -triggered) sensor to replace the contacts on the distributor cap and rotor.

Been having an eye on it for a while, but price is a bit of a killer... because you need a few other parts along with it, like the ignition driver, cables and external coil.

But damn, does it look sexy... :P (at least to me.) God knows how well it takes abuse, since I don't know anyone using it, I did know that when I seriously wanted to buy it, the only one in KSP got sold, and I ended up buying the innovate set instead, plus some of the accessories. Heh.. well I had 3K plus to burn at that time, so I had to burn it one way or another, since the distributor was not around, I got a wideband kit with most of the accessories instead.

About common causes of failure, not to sure about that, but the distributor does have a finite lifespan due to the bearing, at the very least.

let's see.. most cars see 6000rpm at wheel, distributor sees abt. 3K rpm.
Our cars.. well.. some run up to 9.5K rpm.. so half of that is 4.75K rpm?

Coil is depending on power output, so maybe if it has do drive dirty plugs/output more voltage/ignite rich fuelling, it dies faster? Or maybe gapping thing?
This part, I really don't know.

Back to topic.

J101,

2 AEM breathers? Then why bother with the long pipe down to the bumper in the first place? And the price for them is kind of stupid, considering they're just.. well.. filter element on a metal band.

Heh.. that one is an afterthought AEM made, I think. it doesn't seem to be a one way valve thing.

 

[harpoon]

No.. that one still use rotors. The MSD cap is said to have bigger gap for each contact point to prevent 'arc'ing when running big voltage for sparks.

Something to do with voltage requirements to jump the plug gap (this theory, I have absolutely no idea yet)

The one I was referring to is this

Part Number PN8488
(lucky, die, lucky lucky? haha.. the chinese should know this)
This one rotorless, and contactless.. the only moving part that sees friction is the bearing.

It uses 'hall-effect' (what a cool 'marketing' name of magnetic -triggered) sensor to replace the contacts on the distributor cap and rotor.

Been having an eye on it for a while, but price is a bit of a killer... because you need a few other parts along with it, like the ignition driver, cables and external coil.

But damn, does it look sexy... :P (at least to me.) God knows how well it takes abuse, since I don't know anyone using it, I did know that when I seriously wanted to buy it, the only one in KSP got sold, and I ended up buying the innovate set instead, plus some of the accessories. Heh.. well I had 3K plus to burn at that time, so I had to burn it one way or another, since the distributor was not around, I got a wideband kit with most of the accessories instead.

About common causes of failure, not to sure about that, but the distributor does have a finite lifespan due to the bearing, at the very least.

let's see.. most cars see 6000rpm at wheel, distributor sees abt. 3K rpm.
Our cars.. well.. some run up to 9.5K rpm.. so half of that is 4.75K rpm?

Coil is depending on power output, so maybe if it has do drive dirty plugs/output more voltage/ignite rich fuelling, it dies faster? Or maybe gapping thing?
This part, I really don't know.

Back to topic.

J101,

2 AEM breathers? Then why bother with the long pipe down to the bumper in the first place? And the price for them is kind of stupid, considering they're just.. well.. filter element on a metal band.

Heh.. that one is an afterthought AEM made, I think. it doesn't seem to be a one way valve thing.

shiro, i thought the aem system is able to suck in air even if the filter is submerged inside water.....saw promo video of it, but dunno how they manage to descard water and take in air only.....

 

[shiroitenshi]

shiro, i thought the aem system is able to suck in air even if the filter is submerged inside water.....saw promo video of it, but dunno how they manage to descard water and take in air only.....

That's why J101 was mentioning that breather part.. that's what it does.. if the filter is clogged, then the the breathers does its job, as would drilling a couple of holes on the filter pipe would. (>_>)

 

[hattech-v]

like belalai gajah... haha

 

[Big[V]]

Drop in pod filter for the win. Yes you dont get that vtec bark compared to an open pod but VTEC motors are very sensitive to heat! WHen i ran 400m in champion dragway in April this year, i ran consistent 14.8 - 14.9 all day with the close box and when i ran open box, i manage to only nail consistent 15.0 - 15.2. The heat does effect your performance. Drop in for the win... If you ever feel the urge of wanting the vtec sound, you can always open the top part of the box to get that mad VTAX sound!

I'll 2nd to that one. I've tried various setups on my D15B 3 stage CVT ranging from stock piping (with all the resonators blinded off) to short ram, and from stock to slightly bigger piping. Though it may not apply to all cars but for my D15B at least, stock piping + aftermarket drop in performance filter still gives the best butt dyno result. Moreover I've used VAFC to lower the vtec xover pt and it sounds & perform damn lot better with stock piping. I believe also it is due to the stock piping sucking fresh cool charge air rather than direct hot air with the short ram.

I believe the previous post noting the corolla losing to the civic is partially due to heat as well though not by much.