ZTH KuChiNG zone

[evoX2]

ahh...that one. If not mistaken is 4AGE Turbo. Orange color right?

i cant remembered the colour, but i know its running oversize toyo r888 at the rear.

 

[evoX2]

the blue AE been towed away not mistaken was the radiotor issue.
oh i see the little monster was running 4age turbo. how come 4age turbo is much faster than the supercharger version? last week i tried with the AE 4age turbo with full slick, 300m still can play with him but if 400m will smoked by him :P that's the power of siput

 

[farique]

running on stock supercharger kit wont make 4A any much faster. Even stock 4AGZE only 170hp and comparing to the well known B16A stock already pushing 170hp, NA.. hahahaha.. mana dapat makan.. "breakfast" can lar.. "lunch" time have to puasa la..

breakfast - launch
lunch - past 300m

Do correct me if Im wrong with the numbers.. ahaha..

 

[evo3]

turbo manyak bagus.... superchargers only for lanching aka "breakfast" niah....

once u drive a turbo car, the rest of the NA car is like siput but i kinda like B16A. The power ratio is just there. not too powerful nor under power. :) ngam ngam... must must easier to control.

 

[evoX2]

can't say 4age turbo is slow, because i am using b18c to play with him but after 300m still makan turbo asap due to honda's very very close gear ratio. i think those fully modded B20B can challenge those turbo due to the huge torque they produced at the lower rpm.

 

[evo3]

EvoX2, that what i always heard from Honda tuners, gear ratio too short or something like that. That explain the fast launching by VTECsss. Exactly i was going to get an EK then mod it to B18C with CRV block but in the end, kenak pysho by my freinds that modding VTECH is also as expensive as TuBo. So now i wan to mod Zetec.... hehehe

I have a freind who modify the gear ratio already but i haven't try it yet.

 

[evoX2]

yup u are right, modding a vtec is as expensive as turbo. Actually the gear ratio plays an important part in vtec, depend on the application, the gear ratio & final drive all varies. Most stock turbo will have touch match for vtec during launch, vtec launch at around 4.5k-5k rpm, if properly launch it should be reach around 40km/h off the block. Last week I saw one black wira with huge intercooler kena smoked badly by EF for the 1st-3rd gear but after that still managed to catch up. If u plan to have crv b20b then it will be cheaper than modding b16a or b18c cos it originally is a torque monster, but the problem b20b is kuching don't have expert tuner, most is tiuner only come come jump in the vtec wagon :P I welcome u

 

[Jac83]

yup u are right, modding a vtec is as expensive as turbo. Actually the gear ratio plays an important part in vtec, depend on the application, the gear ratio & final drive all varies. Most stock turbo will have touch match for vtec during launch, vtec launch at around 4.5k-5k rpm, if properly launch it should be reach around 40km/h off the block. Last week I saw one black wira with huge intercooler kena smoked badly by EF for the 1st-3rd gear but after that still managed to catch up. If u plan to have crv b20b then it will be cheaper than modding b16a or b18c cos it originally is a torque monster, but the problem b20b is kuching don't have expert tuner, most is tiuner only come come jump in the vtec wagon :P I welcome u

hey, b20b engine comes from which generation of crvs? Well mine is b20 that's for sure but not really sure about another "b"...besides my engine doesnt hav v-tec either...stock 1st gen crv engine...

 

[evoX2]

hey, b20b engine comes from which generation of crvs? Well mine is b20 that's for sure but not really sure about another "b"...besides my engine doesnt hav v-tec either...stock 1st gen crv engine...

either b20b or b20z. Actually both not much power, what i mean b20b above is rojak it the crv block with b16a or b18c head, then u got b20b vtec

 

[farique]

can't say 4age turbo is slow, because i am using b18c to play with him but after 300m still makan turbo asap due to honda's very very close gear ratio. i think those fully modded B20B can challenge those turbo due to the huge torque they produced at the lower rpm.

since I know nothing about honda engines, I am wondering when doing a mix between B18 head with B20 bottom, do we need to do any rebore to the B18 head? We need to rebore if the bore of the B20 is wider than the B18 am I right? But if the bore is the same (B18 & B20), that means that only the stroke of the B20 is longer than the B18, hence no need to rebore. So, my question is, do we need to rebore the B18 head? :hmmmm:

EvoX2, that what i always heard from Honda tuners, gear ratio too short or something like that. That explain the fast launching by VTECsss. Exactly i was going to get an EK then mod it to B18C with CRV block but in the end, kenak pysho by my freinds that modding VTECH is also as expensive as TuBo. So now i wan to mod Zetec.... hehehe

I have a freind who modify the gear ratio already but i haven't try it yet.

zetec also can be expensive if mod kaw² like doing BOT ka..

hey, b20b engine comes from which generation of crvs? Well mine is b20 that's for sure but not really sure about another "b"...besides my engine doesnt hav v-tec either...stock 1st gen crv engine...

I think B20B comes from your CRV generation lor.. I dunno. Since Accords uses H2** engines.

 

[farique]

either b20b or b20z. Actually both not much power, what i mean b20b above is rojak it the crv block with b16a or b18c head, then u got b20b vtec

eiks.. B20 block can be fitted with B16 head? :hmmmm:
how to do it?

 

[evo3]

can.......... use hand.. hehehe

*cabutz*

 

[Jac83]

can.......... use hand.. hehehe

*cabutz*

Hehe ur hand must be some kind of mechanical hand eh:hmmmm:...any1 hav any ideas what mod can be done with my stock b20 engine? Ichy hand eh after browsing through regarding "siput" power

 

[farique]

can.......... use hand.. hehehe

*cabutz*

aiyo..

Hehe ur hand must be some kind of mechanical hand eh:hmmmm:...any1 hav any ideas what mod can be done with my stock b20 engine? Ichy hand eh after browsing through regarding "siput" power

if you have the fund to do the modding, go ahead with it. There are so many choices of types on engine mods. First question, NA or Force Fed?

 

[Jac83]

aiyo..


if you have the fund to do the modding, go ahead with it. There are so many choices of types on engine mods. First question, NA or Force Fed?

Well i hav set hehe some budget for it but haven decided whether to proceed...need more ideas:hmmmm: before i start....

well lets start from the 1st qs...

1)-NA=what type of mods(average and max hp and torque to be achieved? pros and cons?) and extimated budget required? and the most important point = must be able to do it in kch hehe...not planning to send my car around the "world" for mods...

2)-force fed(sounds more tempting )= same as 1st question...

 

[farique]

Well i hav set hehe some budget for it but haven decided whether to proceed...need more ideas:hmmmm: before i start....

well lets start from the 1st qs...

1)-NA=what type of mods(average and max hp and torque to be achieved? pros and cons?) and extimated budget required? and the most important point = must be able to do it in kch hehe...not planning to send my car around the "world" for mods...

2)-force fed(sounds more tempting )= same as 1st question...

1) NA
Ahh.. in NA division, you'll spend quite a lot just to add/extract more horses and torque from the engine compared to Force Fed division. The very first and simple mod would be the intake part. Remove the drop-in box and lets have fun with open pod intake style.

But, make sure to have a Cold-Air-Intake system fitted as well. If you have an extra budget, make a heat shield surrounding the open pod filter to avoid the heat from the engine to disturb the temperature of the air going through the open pod filter. Heat shield is quite expensive to be done though.

The next stage is the exit part. The exhaust system. To have a high rev power, go for 4-1 header while for low revs power, go for 4-2-1 header. Choosing exhaust header is not as easy as choosing which Ice-cream to eat. You can go for a custom header but, it will be expensive and you can be sure if the header is effective. Best thing to do is to source a renown brand like Apexi, RS*R, etc. Look for them in "kedai potong" or straight order new unit. Yeah, they do cost an arm or even leg, but the satisfaction of having something that really improves your engine's power and also owning a branded stuff is priceless.

If the car is having Auto tranny, it would be bes to have the rear muffler unit to be an S-flow unit. If the car is bearing manual tranny, go for a straight flow muffler unit like those HKS Hyper Dragger or Apexi N1. The s-flow muffler is to make sure there'll be a little back pressure to the engine so that the engine wont loose its power. This is because the auto tranny were fitted with a torque converter which shifts whenever they wants (no la.. factory spec ratio la.. ) hence you'll feel the power loss during the shifting.

Also the exhaust pipe diameter. For a B20 which having 2.0L displacement, a 2"~2.5" pipe is just a sweet diameter to flow the toxic gases, out through the muffler. Less than 2" will be a choke to the engine to let out the gas. (Even stock pipe is already 2" kan? :hmmmm:)
The pipe route is best to follow the stock route. Or, if dont want to follow the stock route, at least dont go under the fuel tank. Dangerous woo.. Lain la kalau full track car, just do side exit without muffler la..

That's about the bolt on stuff. The internal stuff I dont know much likes, cams, pistons, con rods, injectors, spark plugs etc. Internal stuff are expensive stuffs. Mau ikat perut la macam ni.. hari² makan meggi me la..

Once you step into the internal stuff as I mentioned above, you will need an engine management to manage your engine activity. EMS likes Greddy E-Manage, MOTEC, MicroTech, Haltech, HKS F Con, etc are the types of EMS you should get. Apexi SAFC and other variants of Apexi's EMS, I dont know for sure if they can manage as what E-manage does. This EMS also aint cheap, for E-Manage, the price starts somewhere in the 1K~2K region and upwards. Those Tec-tech ems, lagi la mahal Not to mention on tuning the EMS lagi.. banyak kerja oo.. also banyak duit mau terbang tu..


2) Force Fed
This religion (somehow it is.. ) is a little bit easy to gather more horses around. FE differentiated by 2 which is Supercharged and Turbocharged. I bet you know these 2 differences aight?

I'll take you to the world of turbocharged. Things that will be "kacau-ed" with your car are the exhaust system and the fueling system, and also internal engine parts. The basic thing that are bolt-ons are the turbo unit, the exhaust manifold which will be fitted to the turbo unit, and the exhaust pipe system. Once that stuff are fitted, your car are turbo-ed edi.

But, cant take it for a ride la.. since you need to adjust the engine compression ratio. As you might have know, to reduce the compression ratio (NA cars comes with high compression ratio, like 10:1, 11:1, 13:1 etc. but force fed cars comes with low compression ratio like 9:1, 8.5:1 etc. ), you'll have to thicken the head gasket (cheap and easy to be done) and also if you have extra budget, look for a turbo pistons. NA pistons are very much different with force fed pistons. This is to reduce to the compression ratio.

After done with the compression ratio, you need to adjust the fueling. More air needs more fuel to be spark properly aight? You dont want your engine to starve for fuel. Might end up with blown engine later on. To adjust fueling, change all the stock injectors for more bigger injectors or add extra injectors. Most Ive heard, they'll add extra injectors but with bigger cc.

Now, to adjust the fueling, you also need fuel regulator to regulate the amount of fuel to be delivered to the injectors. Also, you'll need a bigger high flow of fuel pump. Hahaha, I really have forgotten to mention these (fuel pump, fuel regulator) things before. Fuel pump to pump the fuel la.. By now you should know the logic behind of having high flow fuel pump, fuel regulator, and bigger injectors.

Feel scared yet? Those last 3 stuff I mentioned above if you plan to go for big boost like 1.0 bar or more. To be on the safe side, better invest some money for all that 3 stuff. Having low boost, no need to have high flow fuel pump or big ass injectors, just that fuel regulator is a must.

Now, since the A/F ratio are corrupted, you need to adjust the ignition la pulak.. this is why EMS are damn important. EMS that could adjust the ignition, A/F, etc are best to invest on. Also, you need the boost manager. I forgot the exact name. This thing to prevent boost spike. Invest on these stuff if you would like to go for extreme.


Hopefully all your doubts are answered. Prices? I dont know for sure since I dont mod my cars..

Any experts sees any flaws with my explanation, do correct me. Im just a newbiess.. still very small kid..

 

[Jac83]

1) NA
Ahh.. in NA division, you'll spend quite a lot just to add/extract more horses and torque from the engine compared to Force Fed division. The very first and simple mod would be the intake part. Remove the drop-in box and lets have fun with open pod intake style.

But, make sure to have a Cold-Air-Intake system fitted as well. If you have an extra budget, make a heat shield surrounding the open pod filter to avoid the heat from the engine to disturb the temperature of the air going through the open pod filter. Heat shield is quite expensive to be done though.

The next stage is the exit part. The exhaust system. To have a high rev power, go for 4-1 header while for low revs power, go for 4-2-1 header. Choosing exhaust header is not as easy as choosing which Ice-cream to eat. You can go for a custom header but, it will be expensive and you can be sure if the header is effective. Best thing to do is to source a renown brand like Apexi, RS*R, etc. Look for them in "kedai potong" or straight order new unit. Yeah, they do cost an arm or even leg, but the satisfaction of having something that really improves your engine's power and also owning a branded stuff is priceless.

If the car is having Auto tranny, it would be bes to have the rear muffler unit to be an S-flow unit. If the car is bearing manual tranny, go for a straight flow muffler unit like those HKS Hyper Dragger or Apexi N1. The s-flow muffler is to make sure there'll be a little back pressure to the engine so that the engine wont loose its power. This is because the auto tranny were fitted with a torque converter which shifts whenever they wants (no la.. factory spec ratio la.. ) hence you'll feel the power loss during the shifting.

Also the exhaust pipe diameter. For a B20 which having 2.0L displacement, a 2"~2.5" pipe is just a sweet diameter to flow the toxic gases, out through the muffler. Less than 2" will be a choke to the engine to let out the gas. (Even stock pipe is already 2" kan? :hmmmm:)
The pipe route is best to follow the stock route. Or, if dont want to follow the stock route, at least dont go under the fuel tank. Dangerous woo.. Lain la kalau full track car, just do side exit without muffler la..

That's about the bolt on stuff. The internal stuff I dont know much likes, cams, pistons, con rods, injectors, spark plugs etc. Internal stuff are expensive stuffs. Mau ikat perut la macam ni.. hari² makan meggi me la..

Once you step into the internal stuff as I mentioned above, you will need an engine management to manage your engine activity. EMS likes Greddy E-Manage, MOTEC, MicroTech, Haltech, HKS F Con, etc are the types of EMS you should get. Apexi SAFC and other variants of Apexi's EMS, I dont know for sure if they can manage as what E-manage does. This EMS also aint cheap, for E-Manage, the price starts somewhere in the 1K~2K region and upwards. Those Tec-tech ems, lagi la mahal Not to mention on tuning the EMS lagi.. banyak kerja oo.. also banyak duit mau terbang tu..


2) Force Fed
This religion (somehow it is.. ) is a little bit easy to gather more horses around. FE differentiated by 2 which is Supercharged and Turbocharged. I bet you know these 2 differences aight?

I'll take you to the world of turbocharged. Things that will be "kacau-ed" with your car are the exhaust system and the fueling system, and also internal engine parts. The basic thing that are bolt-ons are the turbo unit, the exhaust manifold which will be fitted to the turbo unit, and the exhaust pipe system. Once that stuff are fitted, your car are turbo-ed edi.

But, cant take it for a ride la.. since you need to adjust the engine compression ratio. As you might have know, to reduce the compression ratio (NA cars comes with high compression ratio, like 10:1, 11:1, 13:1 etc. but force fed cars comes with low compression ratio like 9:1, 8.5:1 etc. ), you'll have to thicken the head gasket (cheap and easy to be done) and also if you have extra budget, look for a turbo pistons. NA pistons are very much different with force fed pistons. This is to reduce to the compression ratio.

After done with the compression ratio, you need to adjust the fueling. More air needs more fuel to be spark properly aight? You dont want your engine to starve for fuel. Might end up with blown engine later on. To adjust fueling, change all the stock injectors for more bigger injectors or add extra injectors. Most Ive heard, they'll add extra injectors but with bigger cc.

Now, to adjust the fueling, you also need fuel regulator to regulate the amount of fuel to be delivered to the injectors. Also, you'll need a bigger high flow of fuel pump. Hahaha, I really have forgotten to mention these (fuel pump, fuel regulator) things before. Fuel pump to pump the fuel la.. By now you should know the logic behind of having high flow fuel pump, fuel regulator, and bigger injectors.

Feel scared yet? Those last 3 stuff I mentioned above if you plan to go for big boost like 1.0 bar or more. To be on the safe side, better invest some money for all that 3 stuff. Having low boost, no need to have high flow fuel pump or big ass injectors, just that fuel regulator is a must.

Now, since the A/F ratio are corrupted, you need to adjust the ignition la pulak.. this is why EMS are damn important. EMS that could adjust the ignition, A/F, etc are best to invest on. Also, you need the boost manager. I forgot the exact name. This thing to prevent boost spike. Invest on these stuff if you would like to go for extreme.


Hopefully all your doubts are answered. Prices? I dont know for sure since I dont mod my cars..

Any experts sees any flaws with my explanation, do correct me. Im just a newbiess.. still very small kid..

wala...that's some good details to have, thanks a lot for giving me some ideas about mods...any idea where i can find some sifus and recommended workshops around in kch to guide me vif the mods? I'm thinking of doing n/a mods as i only hav 5k for mods atm...more in the coming months

Oh ya forgot to mention, my ride's a crv/rd1

Btw farique, u dont mod cars? How bout ur own? Thought ur's comes vif "siput" power eh:hmmmm: ...

 

[evo3]

1) Greedy E-manage or VAFC will good enough for the time being.
2) Proper Intake system like K&N or Pippercross.
3) Header

that should give more power already. :)

 

[farique]

wala...that's some good details to have, thanks a lot for giving me some ideas about mods...any idea where i can find some sifus and recommended workshops around in kch to guide me vif the mods? I'm thinking of doing n/a mods as i only hav 5k for mods atm...more in the coming months

Oh ya forgot to mention, my ride's a crv/rd1

Btw farique, u dont mod cars? How bout ur own? Thought ur's comes vif "siput" power eh:hmmmm: ...

I dont mod cars because I dont have my very own car just yet. I'm only driving my mom's kelisa..

You dont want to let your mom drive your modded car do ya? Nanti diorang bising asking why exhaust so loud, why this car so stiff when driving on the road...

1) Greedy E-manage or VAFC will good enough for the time being.
2) Proper Intake system like K&N or Pippercross.
3) Header

that should give more power already. :)

VAFC? he said his B20 doesnt come with vtec.. no use la the vtec engagement setting..

Apexi has discontinued it right? Currently they are producing the SAFC NEO. But expensive la.. US$359.00..

 

[Jac83]

I dont mod cars because I dont have my very own car just yet. I'm only driving my mom's kelisa..

You dont want to let your mom drive your modded car do ya? Nanti diorang bising asking why exhaust so loud, why this car so stiff when driving on the road...



VAFC? he said his B20 doesnt come with vtec.. no use la the vtec engagement setting..

Apexi has discontinued it right? Currently they are producing the SAFC NEO. But expensive la.. US$359.00..

yeap my b20 vif an "a" behind i think doesnt comes vif any v-tec and it should be SOHC engine...if i'm not mistaken the stock engine only produce up to 120hp only:hmmmm: ...any recomendations where i can hav those mods installed in kch?

Oh farique, yeah i kinna agree vif u regarding ur moms car...it's basically common sense hehe...even my parents will be mad of me if i do even a slightest mod or changes from original to their car

In that case u hav to save up to buy ur own project car then

Mine's not exactly project car but juz hav an ichy hand plus well it's not a new car so i got no worries to do some mods on it...