Knock sensor

wilm3

500 RPM
Senior Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2005
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500
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KL
Sifus...how do we know tat the knock sensor is spoilt? any symptoms...??
 
for mine, everytime the ecu check light will light up and thn engine went to retard
 
1) check for error code #52...if yes...knock sensor faulty...
2) remove the knock sensor...using ohmmeter, check there's no continuity between terminal and body...if got continuity, change the knock sensor...
 
oic...mine never register an error code of #52 but #42 got lar which is VSS faulty cos i never use 20V speedometer.

my problem is sometimes when i accelerate hard then can hear knocking sound and feel like engine retard (sometimes).
 
knocking - too advanced and fuel not enough
my 0.2 cents idea. cheap idea.

but how to detect knock sensor kaput, not sure lah...
 
check light engine will on when rpm 3k,...before this i also kena
 
aik....cam kenai ajer..ye la tuuu...hahahha....yeah..knock sensor code is 52..last time did diagnosis on my 20v..than code 52 was display....diagnosis cost me rm50.00....
 
aik....cam kenai ajer..ye la tuuu...hahahha....yeah..knock sensor code is 52..last time did diagnosis on my 20v..than code 52 was display....diagnosis cost me rm50.00....

wah rm50 just for diagnosis...why not manually use a jumper wire between Te and Te1 to show the error code(teached by sifu ZTH here..hihi)?
 
oic...mine never register an error code of #52 but #42 got lar which is VSS faulty cos i never use 20V speedometer.

my problem is sometimes when i accelerate hard then can hear knocking sound and feel like engine retard (sometimes).

wilm3 - what's your ignition timing ? you can check it with timing light ? maybe too advance on too retard...

cokelat - check whether got any error code on VSS, #42, or not...

"No speed sensor signal to ECU when loaded driving condition with engine speeds 2000 to 5000 rpm. for 8 seconds or more"

sometime the connection wiring to VSS loosen...like mine :banghead:
 
last time i check is 18 degree but pinging kuat so now lower till no pinging but dunno how many degrees....
 
btw.. wat is pinging n vss...

i am using 13 degree... feeling not so smooth also.. hahaha
 
...wow.... 13 and even 18 degrees.... I think it should be just around 8 - 12 degrees for black top.... I saw it in the manual... to set timing, start up engine and let it run until the optimal operating temperature i.e. your indling at 850-880 rpm. Then jump TE1 - E1 (from the diagnosis box).... while stil jumping those 2 terminals, using timing gun to check, adjust for distributor angle until timing mark around 8 - 12 degrees. Unless we run on 100 octane fuel, I don't dare to run more than 12 degrees...
 
yup...that's correct reed1...
hope this one will help...

unless u running with adjustable cams and cam pulley :D...then you akan advance the timing more...
 
18 degrees without shorting T-E1 sounds logical,if set to 10 degrees with T-E1 shorted,then remove the jumper wire the timing will go up to 15-16 degrees.
 
...wow.... 13 and even 18 degrees.... I think it should be just around 8 - 12 degrees for black top.... I saw it in the manual... to set timing, start up engine and let it run until the optimal operating temperature i.e. your indling at 850-880 rpm. Then jump TE1 - E1 (from the diagnosis box).... while stil jumping those 2 terminals, using timing gun to check, adjust for distributor angle until timing mark around 8 - 12 degrees. Unless we run on 100 octane fuel, I don't dare to run more than 12 degrees...

for SVT degree???where can i check it??danny can ke??
 
sure an la.. all mech shop sure got this timing gun for tuning ma .. hahhaha
 


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