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Insulation!!
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<blockquote data-quote="defcon1" data-source="post: 1742919" data-attributes="member: 30064"><p>Installed...1 roll of aluminium backed bitumen flashing tape of size 30' x 3", UK made so quality is good with some good heat resistant qualities since it's used as roof waterproofing... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1425" alt=":smile:" title="Smile :smile:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":smile:" /></p><p></p><p>That's equivalent to 7.5 sq ft of bitumen sheet, about 2mm thick. I started with the boot, since I was not sure of the adhesive properties of the flashing strip. 7.5 sq ft covers both wheel arches, and the two shelves left and right of the spare tyre wheel well. My wheel well already has a layer of bitumen, installed by me a couple of years ago to dampen the noise coming out of it since I don't carry a spare tyre. So, to cover the whole boot, you'd probably need 2 rolls. Not too bad since each roll only costs about RM 30. A roll would definitely cover two doors. So...RM 50 to install some decent dampening sheets in your boot at 100% coverage...which is not necessary since some parts of the boot do not actually resonate... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1425" alt=":smile:" title="Smile :smile:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":smile:" /></p><p></p><p>The adhesive properties of this bitumen is actually quite good. You have to be careful cos once you lay it down, it's difficult to take off in one piece. I reckon it's a bit softer than dynamat or raamat, but properly installed, it should "cure" in about a month to match the physical properties of any structured bitumen.</p><p></p><p>Laying down 3" strips has it's pro's and con's...</p><p></p><p>Pro...it's easy to make it conform to any shape in the car cos basically you can stretch and bend the strips.</p><p></p><p>Con...it takes longer as you have to cut many, many strips to line your boot. For you young, fit guys, this should not be a problem, but for a feilo like me...not only is it murder on the back...it's bloody difficult to squeeze into the boot, even one as large as the feilo's... :sad_smile:</p><p></p><p>I also reckon the material's a little thinner than dynamat or raammat, so the dampening properties will be less. BUT then again...there is a heck of difference between RM 4 per sq foot, and RM 11 - 17 per sq foot (as is the price of raammat or dynamat). The good thing about this is that different parts of the car have different degrees of resonance. So, you could probably get away with decent sound dampening with a single layer in most areas, but for those places that need more dampening, just apply a second layer. It would be best to lay the second layer at right angles across the first in a cross-hash pattern in order to improve the structural properties of the bitumen layers. One good place to have some extra dampening will be the driver's side of the boot...above the exhaust. Do not apply this to the speaker shelf...as that is exposed to the sun and would tend to heat up enough to soften the bitumen.</p><p></p><p>Both the left and right fenders or panels already have factory installed sound supression pads...the type that looks like carpet underlay. If you intend to replace this, then I suggest you peel it off and give the panel a good cleaning before you try. Mine was damn dusty. Don't try to seal them in with bitumen, cos all you will be doing is lessening the surface area for contact and adhesion. For these panels, I don't intend to use bitumen as I believe that would be an overkill.</p><p></p><p>I've also purchased a goodly supply of 6mm and 9mm Insuflex sheets. This is a material similar to Superlon. Both are used extensively in commercial air-conditioning as insulating and sound-proofing material. Being closely connected to the industry, I bought at wholesale price, and now have enough to insulate the whole car if I want to. Insuflex is what I intend to use on those panels.</p><p></p><p>After I complete the bitumen layer, I will lay 1 layer of 9mm Insuflex on top of the bitumen before I reinstall my custom MDF boot panels. The boot plastic mouldings will also be lined with Insuflex, as well as the left and right boot frames.</p><p></p><p>The boot lid is another issue. I am stumped as to how to remove the board under the panel without damaging it.</p><p></p><p>Tomorrow, when I drive to work with an empty boot, devoid of panelling, mouldings or carpeting of any kind, I'll be able to hear if the layering has worked.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="defcon1, post: 1742919, member: 30064"] Installed...1 roll of aluminium backed bitumen flashing tape of size 30' x 3", UK made so quality is good with some good heat resistant qualities since it's used as roof waterproofing... :smile: That's equivalent to 7.5 sq ft of bitumen sheet, about 2mm thick. I started with the boot, since I was not sure of the adhesive properties of the flashing strip. 7.5 sq ft covers both wheel arches, and the two shelves left and right of the spare tyre wheel well. My wheel well already has a layer of bitumen, installed by me a couple of years ago to dampen the noise coming out of it since I don't carry a spare tyre. So, to cover the whole boot, you'd probably need 2 rolls. Not too bad since each roll only costs about RM 30. A roll would definitely cover two doors. So...RM 50 to install some decent dampening sheets in your boot at 100% coverage...which is not necessary since some parts of the boot do not actually resonate... :smile: The adhesive properties of this bitumen is actually quite good. You have to be careful cos once you lay it down, it's difficult to take off in one piece. I reckon it's a bit softer than dynamat or raamat, but properly installed, it should "cure" in about a month to match the physical properties of any structured bitumen. Laying down 3" strips has it's pro's and con's... Pro...it's easy to make it conform to any shape in the car cos basically you can stretch and bend the strips. Con...it takes longer as you have to cut many, many strips to line your boot. For you young, fit guys, this should not be a problem, but for a feilo like me...not only is it murder on the back...it's bloody difficult to squeeze into the boot, even one as large as the feilo's... :sad_smile: I also reckon the material's a little thinner than dynamat or raammat, so the dampening properties will be less. BUT then again...there is a heck of difference between RM 4 per sq foot, and RM 11 - 17 per sq foot (as is the price of raammat or dynamat). The good thing about this is that different parts of the car have different degrees of resonance. So, you could probably get away with decent sound dampening with a single layer in most areas, but for those places that need more dampening, just apply a second layer. It would be best to lay the second layer at right angles across the first in a cross-hash pattern in order to improve the structural properties of the bitumen layers. One good place to have some extra dampening will be the driver's side of the boot...above the exhaust. Do not apply this to the speaker shelf...as that is exposed to the sun and would tend to heat up enough to soften the bitumen. Both the left and right fenders or panels already have factory installed sound supression pads...the type that looks like carpet underlay. If you intend to replace this, then I suggest you peel it off and give the panel a good cleaning before you try. Mine was damn dusty. Don't try to seal them in with bitumen, cos all you will be doing is lessening the surface area for contact and adhesion. For these panels, I don't intend to use bitumen as I believe that would be an overkill. I've also purchased a goodly supply of 6mm and 9mm Insuflex sheets. This is a material similar to Superlon. Both are used extensively in commercial air-conditioning as insulating and sound-proofing material. Being closely connected to the industry, I bought at wholesale price, and now have enough to insulate the whole car if I want to. Insuflex is what I intend to use on those panels. After I complete the bitumen layer, I will lay 1 layer of 9mm Insuflex on top of the bitumen before I reinstall my custom MDF boot panels. The boot plastic mouldings will also be lined with Insuflex, as well as the left and right boot frames. The boot lid is another issue. I am stumped as to how to remove the board under the panel without damaging it. Tomorrow, when I drive to work with an empty boot, devoid of panelling, mouldings or carpeting of any kind, I'll be able to hear if the layering has worked. [/QUOTE]
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