idealing problem

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ahchuan

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my problem is when my i just start my car(cold condition) my rpm show 800-1000 but i rev it goes to 2 or 3k and left it, it drop to 400-500rmp then only goes back to 800-1000rpm.
then when i drive long time, the temputure show 1/3 that time,my problem also same, when i reach hump or when jam, when i press the clutch (like driving at 2 or 3k rpm above, suddenly press clutch) my rmp will also drop to 400-500rmp then goes back to 800-1000rpm.
and i got a volt meter, it show 14v when i driving my car smoothly, but when the car rpm drop to 400-500rpm, the volt drop to 12+v
my problem happen each time i press my clutch....
and, i on my aircorn, my volt will also drop to 12+v then goes back to 14v, then the a/c reach temputure cut off and then a/c turn back on again, the volt also drop to 12+v.. my like will dim a while..
why like tat a??
 
same goes to my car....my engine is soch non vtech......went to repair this problem but the problem still there....headache.........i give up
 
If you're a DIY person, and you suspect electrical power not enough.. go and borrow a (relatively new) battery from friend and test, if same problem after a few drives, probably should check alternator, if not alternator, check wiring maybe some of them got insulation scraped off or torn, or maybe there's a problem with grounding.

If still not, then it's probably not an electrical problem. Kind of hard to say. Once, my friend overtightened the alternator, and the engine was having a hard time trying to spin the alternator pulley. The effect is almost like yours, of course, that kind of mistake doesn't happen to normal people who knows their strength.

Easier.. go to the mechanic and pay money.. hehe (not pulling your leg, just giving a better suggestion. For me, if you cannot spare the time, then pay for mechanic. Sometimes it's not like I don't want to DIY, more like sometimes there is no time.
 
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Its your IACV or Throttle body, or both. You can clean your throttle body using TB Cleaners or some degreaser. If after that no good then you need to check your IACV.

Most likely not your battery/alternator. Also use multimeter to check your TPS. Does it drop when cold too? If so check your FITV, that controls your cold idle.
 
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hyperz said:
Its your IACV or Throttle body, or both. You can clean your throttle body using TB Cleaners or some degreaser. If after that no good then you need to check your IACV.

Most likely not your battery/alternator. Also use multimeter to check your TPS. Does it drop when cold too? If so check your FITV, that controls your cold idle.


hyperz,
any ide how much is IACV and where to buy? mechanic said my IACV is 'kong' already.
my RPM is going up and down....anyone can show me where is IACV located for SOCH engine? is it below the throttle body. TQ
 
its ur t.body...i also hv da same pblem last few week...IACV (idle air control valve)is below t.body..
 
hellboyz said:
its ur t.body...i also hv da same pblem last few week...IACV (idle air control valve)is below t.body..

so what u do hellboyz, u just cleaned your t.body or changed a new t.body and IACV........anyway your engine is DOCH or SOCH....TQ
 
i had this problem with my EJ8 SOHC non VTEC manual last time.

first time Honda SC diagnosed my car with IACV prob. to solve this.. must replace IACV... they wanted to charge me RM700 + labour.

then i went to this bengkel where my friend had his D15 replaced wit B16 and that guy charged me RM180 (including labour) for throttle body replacement. TB from hafkat

then after a few months... on my way back from Kemaman while cruising at 170km/h (laju nih) check engine lite turned on... throttle possition sensor kong. result -> engine running rich. fuel consumption gile gile kuat

went to honda SC in wangsa maju. replaced the throttle body with a used one for RM380 (including labour). Then everything was OK until i sold the car in august last year. dono wat happen now le
 
amdfaisal said:
i had this problem with my EJ8 SOHC non VTEC manual last time.

first time Honda SC diagnosed my car with IACV prob. to solve this.. must replace IACV... they wanted to charge me RM700 + labour.

then i went to this bengkel where my friend had his D15 replaced wit B16 and that guy charged me RM180 (including labour) for throttle body replacement. TB from hafkat

then after a few months... on my way back from Kemaman while cruising at 170km/h (laju nih) check engine lite turned on... throttle possition sensor kong. result -> engine running rich. fuel consumption gile gile kuat

went to honda SC in wangsa maju. replaced the throttle body with a used one for RM380 (including labour). Then everything was OK until i sold the car in august last year. dono wat happen now le

faisal,
so in this case, need to replace the throttle body? not only IACV....am i right
 
I'm also having d same problem on D15B, the check light appear with d check code 7 (TPS). I'd oledi service the TB but the result still the same. Now waiting to change another one n c how, maybe want to swap the B16A TB lah... any result, i'll update....
 
parimus.,dat time i just clean my TB n also using Voltage Stabilizer..den its ok until now..u try 2 clean ur TB 1st..if stll facing da same pblem,try check ur IACV..i think,in ur case u dont hv 2 change ur TB..im using b16a Big V..tq.
 
normally if IACV kong replace with new IACV le. but a bit costly la... kalau nk gamble masukkan throttle body sekenhen... kalau baru mampuih
 
i ask my mech, he said need to clean my TB and another thing behind the TB(dunno wats tat). but when he taken out, i saw it is damn dirty, the hole is cover by dust+black oil. then i clean the 2 item lo, but the problem still the same..

aiyo,sakit kepala le... why like tat.
 
agree with what shiro said......u should check ur electrical system since your volt meter showed drop in voltage.....iacv wont effect ur voltage reading....only will effect idling during aircond on.
 
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ok..
my car is not ruunning orginal engine, i do a swaping b4 tat..
but the problem happen after 1/2 year i swap my engine..
so wat can i do??
add earth cable?? or.....??
 
IACV (Idle Air Control Valve)

FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve)

if you have a IACV problem, u gotta change it by all means. u can try cleaning it up or even get a 2nd hand unit(at your own risk) but a new one would cost you RM4XX or prolly more. once u switch on the aircon, its gonna die if you have a IACV failure. it has nothing got to do with your throttlebody system. dun get mixed up.

its up to u if u want to use the FITV. the b16a(OBD0) has the FITV on the manifold rather than the tb and the type-r manifolds dont have a provision for it so if only if u want to use a FITV u have to use a tb with a FITV connected such as a b16a(OBD1). sometimes the car wouldnt idle properly when cold without the FITV so I would definitely recommend using one(if can get lar). the car would stall so u have to rev until it was warmed up which sometimes annoying.

so if its surging during startup its the FITV. if its dying when aircon is switch on then it'll be the ICAV.

hope this helps.
 
eh.. i on my a/c no problem now wo..
b4 tat got a/c problem,.. idealing very low..
then my mech added a toyota a/c vacum on it.. dunno the name,but know is from toyota.
so after added few month, now when i off my a/c, my idealing is sh!t...
 
Thats the FICD(fast idle control device). i hope you are not using that to counterback the IACV problem as it would be bad in the long run. You can also
get the FICD brand new from DENSO between RM250-270 a piece brand new.


ahchuan said:
eh.. i on my a/c no problem now wo..
b4 tat got a/c problem,.. idealing very low..
then my mech added a toyota a/c vacum on it.. dunno the name,but know is from toyota.
so after added few month, now when i off my a/c, my idealing is sh!t...
 

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