Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) Tha BEst?

[egb18c]

Iam sorry, ive googled everywhere but cant find the answer.

my car has this problem,before this ive set-up my FPR to run at 3bar with no vacuum.

Yesterday ive check the meter,and its showing like 4.5bar with vacuum,i was like WTF....faulty FPR or ive just started my engine....

SO set it back to 3bar.

My question is which is the best FPR in the market as iam using original works FPR bought from momentum motorsport in S.Alam...

Another question is that is there any FPR out there that has check valve or one way valve?
as my fuel system doesnt hold pressure when i start my car(so it needs to be crank a lot more)

Thank you.... :)

 

[Kiwi-Corolla]

Is your gauge liquid filled or dry? And what engine is the FPR installed to?

 

[egb18c]

it used to be filled,but now....its hard to check since ive put it at awkward position.
should it be the gauge is faulty?since there is oil oozing from the back of the gauge.

update: now the pressure is 40psi with vacuum,it should be 36psi since last set up,yesterday night before sleep.

 

[Kiwi-Corolla]

Liquid filled gauges are infamous for reading wrong, but they literally all do it. Once the gauge gets hot inside the engine bay the pressure inside the gauge rises and is unable to vent out, causing the pressure to read higher than it really is. I recently installed a genuine Tomei Type S FPR with a genuine Tomei fuel pressure gauge on my 4A-GE 20v Blacktop engine and noticed that the gauge would read incorrectly once the engine bay heat warmed it up, so I ended up removing the rubber bung off the back and emptied out all of the liquid (glycerin) and it has read perfectly ever since.

If the gauge still reads incorrectly even without the liquid then it could either be a faulty gauge or faulty FPR. There are many cheap/fake/knockoff FPR's out there which are defective straight out of the box, so buying a branded FPR such as Tomei or Sard from an authorized re-seller is the only way to ensure that you don't buy a poor quality replica.

Also, make sure the vacuum hose coming from the FPR doesn't have any cracks or splits in it, as a vacuum leak will also cause the gauge to read high (although you should notice a higher idle if that's the case). Depending on which car/engine you have fitted the FPR to the ECU could be trying to compensate and actually changing the fuel pressure after you've set by altering the injector pulse/cycle. This happened to me on my 4A-GE. I raised it to 44psi (3bar) and after about a day I rechecked it and it had come back down to 40psi, but after readjusting it a couple more times the ECU gave up the battle and stopped adjusting itself back to 40psi. The ECU wouldn't increase the pressure however, so if you're able to rule out the gauge being the problem by emptying out the liquid then it sounds like it could be a faulty FPR.

 

[egb18c]

so in my case, if the gauge is leaking, it wouldnt be any problem reading the fuel pressure?

it could not be a vacuum leak as i set up the FPR without using any vacuum(remove vacuum from the FPR) so it should make constant reading right?

i bought it at a famous Motorsport shop in Malaysia... Thats the only guarantee that we have in Malaysia for not buying fake one. There is a lot of cheap fake parts in Malaysia though.

btw thx man for the input

 

[Kiwi-Corolla]

No worries man :). Yeah if your gauge is leaking it would be vented, however depending on how small the hole is that the fluid is leaking from it may not be enough to vent properly, especially if the liquid is in the way. I'd personally unscrew the gauge from the FPR and empty the liquid out by removing the rubber bung on the back. Getting glycerin through your engine bay isn't much fun and it doesn't really dry on it's own as it's a thick type of substance.

What engine is the FPR installed on? Is it 1:1 ratio or rising rate?

 

[egb18c]

If i remove the gauge glycerin it may void the warranty of the FPR itself,so i may leave it as it is before i send it to the motorsport shop and exchange it for a new one(Hope still have the receipt)

Its a "Works" FPR as i know its a 1:1 ratio couple with walbro 255 fuel pump and 370cc injector.
i guess i need to boost down the engine and put a silencer at the muffler and drive like an old lady.hehe.

do you know any brand of fpr which has check valve/one way valve to hold the fuel pressure when then engine is off.

 

[egb18c]

Just FYI,

Found the culprit, Kiwi-Corolla was right,it was the fuel pressure gauge that was faulty, the main reason is due to heat inside the engine bay. The reading will drop due the heat but in some cases such as Kiwi-Corolla experienced, instead of pressure drop when its hot, his gauge was reading higher pressure....

so some tips to know the pressure gauge is faulty or just out of tolerance.
What you need is a few cube of ices.
start your engine and then see the gauge reading.
now put an ice cube onto the pressure gauge.
see whether the pressure reading rises up or going down.

if it does,then your pressure gauge reading is false.

another tip is too set your fuel pressure when the engine is cold. Just start your engine, take out the vacuum line connected to the FPR and then set it up. Then just forget about the reading as it will bounce up or down.

Rather than that we can use pressure gauge without liquid, i couldnt find it at mudah, maybe anyone here may know where to purchase it.

 

[papagoines]

made me think twice to install aftermarket adj fpr in my car current stock form

...maybe consider if upgrading turbo with mega boost

 

[egb18c]

it would not be a problem if your fuel regulator is somewhere cold,we just need to find a place in the engine bay that is cold and away from radiator fan hot air direction.

i have this problem due to my engine have a hydraulic fan, so it will suck cold air towards the radiator 24-7.

currently i feel sorry for my FPR,because i was adjusting it non stop, thought that was the culprit.kekekekekekek

 

[vr2turbo]

made me think twice to install aftermarket adj fpr in my car current stock form

...maybe consider if upgrading turbo with mega boost

I did instal one thinking it will boost the power, just that my tank full of petrol lasted only 280km instead of 320km, so i took it out after a few months....

 

[egb18c]

installed the FPR because ive just installed walbro fuel pump,so when using this walbro fuel pump it will create higher pressure due to stock FPR would not able to withstand the higher flowrate.
So i need the adjustable FPR to adjust the fuel pressure as the original pressure,which is at 3bar/43.5psi.

but what i notice is that when stopping at traffic light,i will smell fuel(maybe too rich at idle).

 

[Izso]

The last time I adjusted my AFPR to 5bar it fouled my sparkplugs and gave me hell for a while. Tuned it down to 4bar and that worked until I dynoed and found out I was running super duper rich. Spent money dyno tune to 2.3bar which is a far cry from my earlier DIY testing.

AFPRs have a membrane inside which will eventually give way. It's worth checking that occassionally to see if it's still in good shape. If not you'll need a new AFPR. Sard has too many fakes and all these super brands too. The one that I am using the Works one but I have no idea what stage. Suggest to go for the stage II one straight away, forget about stage I. Don't understand why they made so many versions.

 

[vr2turbo]

The last time I adjusted my AFPR to 5bar it fouled my sparkplugs and gave me hell for a while. Tuned it down to 4bar and that worked until I dynoed and found out I was running super duper rich. Spent money dyno tune to 2.3bar which is a far cry from my earlier DIY testing.

AFPRs have a membrane inside which will eventually give way. It's worth checking that occassionally to see if it's still in good shape. If not you'll need a new AFPR. Sard has too many fakes and all these super brands too. The one that I am using the Works one but I have no idea what stage. Suggest to go for the stage II one straight away, forget about stage I. Don't understand why they made so many versions.

I follow their recommendation of 3bar also, but if too high becomes too rich, might as well use back standard OEM unit....