Brembo Disc Rotor

[kang65]

Hi all,

Anyone facing problem with the original brembo rotor?

Current my rotor already skin 3 times, still bend.......:confused_smile:

Now consider to upgrade!

Any sifu pls share ur infro.

thanks

 

[cyilaw]

which evo ur brembo from? evoMR facing this problem also. i skim mine once, then now i change the rotor already. ur original rotor can skim too much leh.

 

[leslie]

kang65,
its hard to say on what to do or why it bends coz there is a lot of factor regarding this matter...
well.. first it really depends how you drive and braking... if driver tends to hard braking at last minute during high speeds.. it can happen also. or when you run high speed then you run into puddles of water also can bend. Using a too hard brake pads can also eat into your rotors... how did you skim your rotor?.. some workshop do the cheapest way of skimming the rotor by using sand paper..which results to uneven surfaces... do you wash or spray your rotor with water as soon as you arrive home?.. when your rotor is at high tempreture.. do not spray water on it...it wont just bend.. it even cracks!!!... how is your rotor condition when you bought the car?.. check if there is any crack lines.. it its crack.. it cant be saved... you mention you skim 3 times oledy!!!.. 3 times is the max you can skim the rotor...after that.. you better off buying a new one..well.. make sure you use the correct brake pads for the rotor..

 

[Stormvolution 9]

kang65,

Yo bro, jus to share u some of my experience!!! :_: Actually it is my bozz cum dad hving this problem with his rotor on his Scooby!!! He 1st claim tht de ori brake cant stop his car well... So he went n change his brake pads to Endless 0-300Celcious with Endless front rotor... After tht it goes well for him... But during a trip to Raub with us all MLOC... On de way back, v were kinda 'flying' a bit... Then when reach hom, he again complaining de set-up no good... And guess what, this time he burnt de rotors too... de whole front Endless rotor changed color... Looks like overheated!!! :shocked:

So, he used back his ori rotor which he oredi sent for skimming with higher tempt pads - Endless 0-500 celcious front n back... Haha... And agian it served him well for a while... But after de same route back from Raub yest, he met a Ferrari!!! LoLzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.... :_: Both of them raced n half way de Ferrrari were gone until no tail light can b seen... Hahaha... When hom he told me de story n again he claimed de set up wasn't good AGAIN!!! LoLzzzzzzzzzzzz.... Myself oso pengsan :confused_smile:

So this time, i tell him to change de brake hose + de brake oil... Use back de Endless rotors which he oredi sent for skimming + upgrade de pad again to 0-700celcious + ventilation hose tht r able to direct air to de front rotors!!! If this fail again... i oso dunno what to say... Actually, am very sure tht his way of driving needed to b changed!!! As he luv to hard brake very much at de very last minute... This might b de main problem as de same set up for different drivers might not hv such problems...

:_:

 

[cyilaw]

S9,

wa...ur dad really hard core mah...hehehe.....but the disc haven been skim then strenght will not good arleady actually. the disc first layer is the hardest one. actually i think he did the wrong step is change to pad to 0-300...hehe...should change to those 0-700 or 0-800 pad...0-300 just like out original pad temperature only....hehehe...if his brake failed again, then may need change the rotor agian..hehe...get those replacememnt kit is he using 2 piece rotor...

 

[B18C-R]

my experience with high temp pads on original rotors tells me the original brembo rotors (i believe the same for STi and Evo la) CANNOT withstand the high temp pads for hard bracking. Those high temp pads are just way too 'hard' for the rotors..when u press hard, u can feel it la.

I am using front/rear Power Enterprise 750c pads on stock rotor. After our visit to SIC 2 months back, rotor all gone. But the pads were really good..will perform best on a better rotor. So the rule to stick to this setup is to reduce 'overbraking' or last min bracking la.

Now changed a set of new rotor (stock e7 brembo also) & a set of the new pads (same). Dunwan aftermarket rotor coz makan brake pad very fast la.

Lastly, the pad and rotor is one thing but driving style is the most important thing !

 

[cyilaw]

B18C-R,

i hear one of the other club member say the original rotor is only 450c.....

 

[kang65]

Thank you all of u sharing ur experience. Think to change my driving style....

Current now i using project mu 0-400 pad.

cyilaw,

Wat's brand u using now?

I looking for aftermarket rotor to replace the ori.

 

[Cannonfodder]

Rotors won't improve or decrease braking performance unless you move to a larger or smaller setup. The swept area remains the same. In fact, if you move to slotted or drilled rotors of the same size as stock, you actually decrease your maximum stopping power. Reason? Slots and holes reduce surface area for pads to clamp on to. The benefit? Stopping power remains consistent for longer under hard use due to better ventilation.

No empiric evidence that stock cast iron rotors can only take 450C. It's all conjecture. What usually causes rotors to go out is usually:

- pasang race pads but drive on streets only
- pasang semi-race but drive like girl
- pasang race pads but never re-bed before going to track after street use
- pasang brake kau kau and coming to a complete stop
- pasang brake kau kau, stopping, and leaving brake pedal on.


Normally, it's not the temperatures that the rotors cannot withstand, it's the material of these high-performance pads.

 

[Cannonfodder]

Oh, and forgot to add, it's rarely the case where rotors actually warp. What actually causes the problem is the transfer of brake pad material onto the brake disc, which is not burned off due to insufficient heat (normally from using race pads for street driving). This formation is called cementite, and this is what causes the earthquake under braking.

If you detect the problem fast enough, install a set of high-abbrasion semi-metallic pads (Bendix Metal King!! Woohoo!) and do a few bed-in runs. This should be sufficient to grind off the cementite. If not, you will need to have the rotors milled to get rid of this stuff. The problem with milling is that it's supposed to be done on a lathe but most mechanics just do it on the wheel hub, so it will not be done properly. You only need a few microns of remainding cementite to cause a relapse, and that's invisible to the naked eye. This is normally why the rotor unevenness seems to come back after a while; the rotors were never milled correctly in the first place.

 

[kang65]

My mechanics skim on the wheel hub.

They saying the balancing on lathe no same as our hub.

Cannonfodder,

Thanks for your infor.

 

[Cannonfodder]

Mechanics choose to mill on the hub because it is a lot less work, since all you do is remove the wheels and there is no need to take apart the wheel hub assembly to remove the brake rotors.

Balancing brake discs... er... ah... no comment, after your mechanic tiau me ;)

 

[mynnDAWG]

using 300C pad is a NO NO for turbo cum evos/stis!....300C only for Vtec can liao...should be 550 & higher!

 

[Cannonfodder]

Depends how and where you drive also la. For someone like me, a pad with 300C limit also enough already for street use, as long as the mju is high enough. Even though I like to drive fast, I don't like to brake hard, so I never fade out my pads.

In my case, specifying these high-performance pads would only increase the chances of cementite formation. Right part for the right application.

 

[cyilaw]

Kang65,

i using project mu 2 piece slotted disc (600c) and HC+ pad (0-800c). pretty good, feel alot better then ori. i need this set up coz some time play in track.

if just normal street driving can go for cheaper set up. in track my ori disc and pad can last me about 8 laps then start burning up and all the track car can start cucuk me already before the corner...hehehe

 

[Stormvolution 9]

Mmm... Actually 0-300 celcious is pretty much enough for street use!!! I remember once read a Evo mag, de std evo pad tempt is up to 180 celcious onli!!! :shocked: I was so damn shocked to read tht figure!!!

Anyway, if not very hardcore driving, i guess upgrading de pads n steel braided brake hose wil b very good liao!!! :_:

 

[cyilaw]

so funny this mitsubishi, dunno what they think to safe cost, give 180 c only also can....and the rotor also damn heavy...

 

[B18C-R]

Cy,

Aiyoh..the car they sold is meant for street use ma.. so for itchy leg like you (n me la..hehe), we got to spend and change the pads la.

Otherwise Project U, Endless, Feredo, AP Racing all can close shop la..if all evos comes equipped with keng keng punya pads and rotor. : P

I think stock pad for my wira is less than 150c ..the last I check with spare parts folks.

 

[Stormvolution 9]

Yeah, when i 1st read de Mag abt de 180c for all ori Brembo pads... I refuse to believe it... Mana boleh ah ini macam??? :Not_Impressed: But come to think of it, de cars r mainly for street use, to protect de rotor n if de ori pads oredi 300c n above, like B18C-R said v better pay cheaper to get de ori pad rather than buying those afther mkt ones... LoLzzzzzzzz... :_:

Besides, lately there wil b lotsa Brembo 4 potters (for car's rear wheel) 6 potters n 8 potters coming into Msia mkt as Brembo r trying to intro their new products to all users!!! Errr... Pricing wise ah... I think will not b cheap!!! LoLzzzzz... Since AP Racing oredi under Brembo, so i guess de pricing wise oso wil not b big different for de 2 brands la... :regular_smile:

 

[cyilaw]

heheh...true also, it sell for street use...heheh....but consider very good to us since it come with brembo caliper, we just need to change the disc and pad, if want me to change the caliper also, then die lo...but i hear the ori disc is 450c? with 180c pad combination also quite weird....