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<blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 3155237" data-attributes="member: 27518"><p>fuel pressure is stock B16A.. Type R is 3bar, 3.5 without VAC. If the Jun ECU for B18C, then you know what pressure to use. If the ECU for the B16A, stick with the stock regulator.</p><p></p><p>That's why I suggest set to 0, there should be no correction for all. if there is, then there's something wrong with it. You should be able to run VAFC with no correction, and there should be no changes after you installed the VAFC if the corrections are zero'ed.</p><p></p><p>That's also why I mentioned the VTEC point not matching with the VAFC. Usually just before VTEC, most aftermarket chipped ecu's all start dumping more fuel <u>around</u> 500rpm before VTEC (not exactly, but I'm just generalizing) that's why it's not so easy to tune VAFC with aftermarket ecu.. with the stock ECU it's different, as fuelling and ignition is a lot milder.</p><p></p><p>Try install back the VAFC (reset all settings before starting, set up TPS sensor,engine type (for the RPM readout), all basic initial settings (if there is more, I forget alrdy), then start engine) there should be no change in how your engine behaves before and after you install VAFC. If there is.. it's time to check the wiring, and a multimeter would be useful at that point.</p><p></p><p>It might be a long shot, but in addition to cables and etc. it's good to check if the injectors are any good at this stage, esp. if you've never cleaned them before. It's not common, but sometimes it's the cause of rough idling (or jerking).. because one of the injectors is not spraying properly. But this is like RARE.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, no matter what your tuner says, cam timing cannot be a secret because the timing marks are there. It's just a matter of you reading the timing marks on the cam. Google™ on how to read cam timing marks, and you can post here how much advance or retard your tuner put in for your intake or exhaust cam. Easy if you already have a cutout for the cam pulleys, not so easy if you have a full valvecover)</p><p></p><p>I think your tuner <strong>wouldn't</strong> make a mistake on degreeing a belt driven cam, unlike chain driven ones. Perhaps he was a bit overzealous on pushing his product, but hey, just want to earn more money what.. :P</p><p></p><p>If you're using your car for trackday.. who's your technical pitcrew for on the spot quick fixes? Don't tell me your missus.. :P</p><p></p><p>If/when you're using hondata, can set one of the functions as pit limiter. You can also have an in car cam, record your video, then overlay your run on the video like this.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeAh_v7DF-A" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeAh_v7DF-A</a></p><p></p><p>Should be fun to see where you braked early, and what line you took on the track, and where you dropped out of VTEC, and finally realize what close-ratio gearboxes are all about.</p><p></p><p>But some switches have to be wired manually for some of the features to work, and some need the p/s or a/c be eliminated, which is no problem for a track car.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shiroitenshi, post: 3155237, member: 27518"] fuel pressure is stock B16A.. Type R is 3bar, 3.5 without VAC. If the Jun ECU for B18C, then you know what pressure to use. If the ECU for the B16A, stick with the stock regulator. That's why I suggest set to 0, there should be no correction for all. if there is, then there's something wrong with it. You should be able to run VAFC with no correction, and there should be no changes after you installed the VAFC if the corrections are zero'ed. That's also why I mentioned the VTEC point not matching with the VAFC. Usually just before VTEC, most aftermarket chipped ecu's all start dumping more fuel [U]around[/U] 500rpm before VTEC (not exactly, but I'm just generalizing) that's why it's not so easy to tune VAFC with aftermarket ecu.. with the stock ECU it's different, as fuelling and ignition is a lot milder. Try install back the VAFC (reset all settings before starting, set up TPS sensor,engine type (for the RPM readout), all basic initial settings (if there is more, I forget alrdy), then start engine) there should be no change in how your engine behaves before and after you install VAFC. If there is.. it's time to check the wiring, and a multimeter would be useful at that point. It might be a long shot, but in addition to cables and etc. it's good to check if the injectors are any good at this stage, esp. if you've never cleaned them before. It's not common, but sometimes it's the cause of rough idling (or jerking).. because one of the injectors is not spraying properly. But this is like RARE. Anyway, no matter what your tuner says, cam timing cannot be a secret because the timing marks are there. It's just a matter of you reading the timing marks on the cam. Google™ on how to read cam timing marks, and you can post here how much advance or retard your tuner put in for your intake or exhaust cam. Easy if you already have a cutout for the cam pulleys, not so easy if you have a full valvecover) I think your tuner [B]wouldn't[/B] make a mistake on degreeing a belt driven cam, unlike chain driven ones. Perhaps he was a bit overzealous on pushing his product, but hey, just want to earn more money what.. :P If you're using your car for trackday.. who's your technical pitcrew for on the spot quick fixes? Don't tell me your missus.. :P If/when you're using hondata, can set one of the functions as pit limiter. You can also have an in car cam, record your video, then overlay your run on the video like this. [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeAh_v7DF-A[/url] Should be fun to see where you braked early, and what line you took on the track, and where you dropped out of VTEC, and finally realize what close-ratio gearboxes are all about. But some switches have to be wired manually for some of the features to work, and some need the p/s or a/c be eliminated, which is no problem for a track car. [/QUOTE]
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