dual speed fan?I am using BMW fan from M43B19, its supposed to be high speed fan. The voltage dropped to 12.7 when the fan is spinning very fast for few seconds, and voltage recover back to 13.3 - 13.4 v after it slow down.
Thanks,
Ken
dual speed fan?I am using BMW fan from M43B19, its supposed to be high speed fan. The voltage dropped to 12.7 when the fan is spinning very fast for few seconds, and voltage recover back to 13.3 - 13.4 v after it slow down.
Thanks,
Ken
Hi,Yup, agree with bro. pomen. If voltage drop below 13v then you battery not enough charge already.....
From the sound of it when its activated, it looks like a dual speed fan. I remembered there was a year when the original cooling fan will constantly tuned into highspeed mode (real loud from the outside when its spinning very quick) and slow down to normal fan speed after engine reached warm up temperature, in the end we found out the fan switch is faulty and constantly putting the fan into highspeed mode. That burned out the motor pretty quick.dual speed fan?
Which booster you read up about?Folks,
I have been seeing online and found there's alternator voltage booster module available for certain type of cars. Wondering is there such devices in Malaysia to help with my current issue ?
Thanks,
Ken
Here you go: https://zzperformance.com/products/alternator-voltage-boosterWhich booster you read up about?
Ah... I would not use those things.Here you go: https://zzperformance.com/products/alternator-voltage-booster
Although its available for most U.S car brands, some Toyota models like Prado, Land Cruiser, Hilux ... Not sure about 1JZ.
Thanks,
Ken
Alternator returned fine, only at low rpm the charging seems inadequate. Besides increasing the RPM (which is out at this moment), i ran out of option to try to increase the voltage output, earth cables are fine and can't seems there's much resistance in the system. Hence comes to this booster module.Ah... I would not use those things.
I like this guys videos, might help you :
But the charge is fine with accessories off, pass 14v....Did u check or is there any way to check the alternator output at the source meaning at the alternator itself.
After reading this all over again i think there is a bad connection somewhere.
I am using BMW fan from M43B19, its supposed to be high speed fan. The voltage dropped to 12.7 when the fan is spinning very fast for few seconds, and voltage recover back to 13.3 - 13.4 v after it slow down.
Thanks,
Ken
Here you go: https://zzperformance.com/products/alternator-voltage-booster
Although its available for most U.S car brands, some Toyota models like Prado, Land Cruiser, Hilux ... Not sure about 1JZ.
Thanks,
Ken
I'm still debating whether that tiny little booster wire is going to help you. Looking at the thing itself, it looks like it'll probably have some diode to upscale the V, but this will reduce the amperage I suspect and something else is going to sufferthe voltage should be sufficient... but the amperage problably fell below than what the car body electrical demands... (load too much supply too little)
I'm still debating whether that tiny little booster wire is going to help you. Looking at the thing itself, it looks like it'll probably have some diode to upscale the V, but this will reduce the amperage I suspect and something else is going to suffer
I just finished reading an experiment paper by Utem student on car alternator.i see... from the way you describe it...
my suspect would be the alternator amperage not enough for your bimmer electrical...changing into bigger amperage alternator would help in solving this issue...
Apart from the basic higher speed will produce more current i also learnt one interesting thing;
In the paper they mentioned about crankshaft-alternator speed ratio. Normal car is 1:2 which means 1k rpm on crank is 2k rpm on alternator. This means to make the alternator produce more output during engine idle we can play with this ratio by changing the pulley size so it spins faster right?
+1i see... from the way you describe it...
my suspect would be the alternator amperage not enough for your bimmer electrical...changing into bigger amperage alternator would help in solving this issue...
Good additional info...they got it wrong.. (although i'm from utem myself )
car alternator doesnt operate on 2:1 pulley ratio...its more than that.. probably atleast 3:1 or 4:1 (see the alternator pulley size vs crank pulley size to get the idea)
2:1 is crankshaft to camshaft ratio....
yes u can change the alternator pulley into smaller one (or bigger crankpulley) to increase the rpm ratio between those 2...
problem is on the market, most is people selling under-drive pulley (which lower the ratio and effective rpm of alternator) for race purpose and use it on the street (wrong concept)....
the reason of under-drive pulley invented for racing purpose, race engine never saw rpm lower than 4.5k rpm...it will spend most of the time at high rpm range..so to reduce alternator speed damage (as well as power steering pump)...race car build install the under-drive pulley....
installing under-drive pulley will make alternator (and power steering pump and ac compressor) working under its designated speed make it worst in slow moving traffic or on idle during traffic jam...
what people on the street is over-drive pulley...
in this jz bimmer case, is ideal solution (if not changing bigger amperage alternator)....but since sourcing the over-drive pulley which definately need to be custom made is freakin expensive, then bigger alternator is the simplest route to follow... because bigger alternator is more common mod especially in car audio shop...
You may change to a smaller alternator pulley to increase the rpm but wont that place a larger idle load on the engine? He's already complaining it's not idling wellin this jz bimmer case, is ideal solution (if not changing bigger amperage alternator)....but since sourcing the over-drive pulley which definately need to be custom made is freakin expensive, then bigger alternator is the simplest route to follow... because bigger alternator is more common mod especially in car audio shop...
I would agree to changing higher amp alternator, the stock 1jz alternator possibly isn't big enough to supply to all those gizmos in the beemer.they got it wrong.. (although i'm from utem myself )
car alternator doesnt operate on 2:1 pulley ratio...its more than that.. probably atleast 3:1 or 4:1 (see the alternator pulley size vs crank pulley size to get the idea)
2:1 is crankshaft to camshaft ratio....
yes u can change the alternator pulley into smaller one (or bigger crankpulley) to increase the rpm ratio between those 2...
problem is on the market, most is people selling under-drive pulley (which lower the ratio and effective rpm of alternator) for race purpose and use it on the street (wrong concept)....
the reason of under-drive pulley invented for racing purpose, race engine never saw rpm lower than 4.5k rpm...it will spend most of the time at high rpm range..so to reduce alternator speed damage (as well as power steering pump)...race car build install the under-drive pulley....
installing under-drive pulley will make alternator (and power steering pump and ac compressor) working under its designated speed make it worst in slow moving traffic or on idle during traffic jam...
what people on the street is over-drive pulley...
in this jz bimmer case, is ideal solution (if not changing bigger amperage alternator)....but since sourcing the over-drive pulley which definately need to be custom made is freakin expensive, then bigger alternator is the simplest route to follow... because bigger alternator is more common mod especially in car audio shop...