shiroi,
thats what i thought. they could be using the additional aux box to measure each cylinder since innovate do use daisy chain connection instead of using 1 box only.
on the OPTION bar, SETTINGS, WIDEBAND LAMDA, did u set to INNOVATE /voltage lambda conversion setting since ure using LM1 or ure using innovate software to datalog? how does the datalog looks like for the AFR if u happen to calibrate both hondata and innovate? i have not seen any screenshots before for that kind of calibration.
It's not an Auxbox, but a thermistor amplifier.. since the thermistor outputs in milivolts. The four thermistor box is called the TC-4. Thinking about getting it, but well, still a lot of other things to do with the car for now, and for me at least, reading the plugs and compression leakdown test probably is enough to find out which cylinder is giving problems. (thought at this point in time, I think that I'm rapidly approaching to limits of a B16A stock engine output).. at least without resorting to any parts mods. I think the TC4 will be the only way I can log four EGTs in one go, because the longest thermistor wire seems to be like 6' only... and unless you fancy wires running though your engine bay and looking like a rats nest, I think the TC-4 will be a required upgrade, as it can be mounted on the firewall, and it will be closer to the headers.
Currently I'm using innovate datalog for AFR.. though I am wiring the D14 pin as well. One thing that hondata lacks is proper navigation for their datalog. For an hour long datalog, trying to track down the exact rpm where the knock spike occurs isn't so friendly.. for short runs, this is not a problem, as the graph isn't compressed tightly. The LM-1 will show a knock spike as a lean reading, but it could be a misfire, so that's where the P30 knock board comes in handy.. though I'm going to get a headphone amp sometime to try and identify the sound with a DIY microphone knock amp... I'm not sure if it'll even work, but I'm going to try anyway. heh.
Well, this is software issue, so maybe they'll come out with a new version or something for better userfriendly datalog GUI. So far, I'm getting around that by using the export to CSV, then reading it in MS Excel. For all intents and purposes though.. the RPM readout is reliable, and you can compare hondata RPM readout with innovate, as they are 100% same. So you can read the AFR from LM-1, and not worry that 7500rpm does not equate to hondata's 7500rpm. They don't read voltages, rather they read frequency, so it's spot on. The D14 pin AFR reference will come in handy when you do part throttle tune. For full throttle, since I'm using the Innovate MTS to measure power output differences, I don't connect the D14pin, and use hondata to monitor for knock and other parameters not logged by the Auxbox.
If you use the D14pin, you will need to set the voltage reference from the pull down list, and if you plugged the wideband o2 sensor into the narrowband sensor bung (AND REMOVE THE NARROWBAND completely), you will need to disable 02 heater circuit option so it doesn't throw a heater open CEL. I'm using the exhaust clamp, so obviously I retained my narrowband sensor. There is an article about it in Honda Tuning, but they neglected to mention that if you retain your narrowband sensor, then you have a bit more work in wiring the D14, and you will need to have a bullet connector so you can disable the signal from the narrowband input. In that article, they removed the narrowband completely, so they did not have to use use a bullet connector on the jumper harness because there is no voltage coming form the narrowband sensor signal wire.
You will use the analogue output from the innovate wideband to output the voltage.. one is a narrowband sensor simulator (in case you are running piggyback but removed your stock 02 sensor) and the other is a 0-2V, which the hondata already has a chart for, and it will read the full range of LM-1 AFR correctly. You can even wire the analogue output to an AFR meter (there's two analogue outs, so obviously you need to program one for the meter so that it reads the full range AFR.. (so that even the normal AFR meters can actually read the full range)
There will be no difference in readouts, but since these are electrical voltage referenced, you just need to make sure that the wiring isn't done too poorly that the voltage that hondata gets from the D14 pin is significantly less than what LM-1 outputs out. If the LM-1 outputs out 1V, but hondata D14 pin gets 0.84V, obviously there will be differences in the readout of the AFR on the Hondata. Since I solder my connections, obviously this is not a problem for me, and I did check the resistance before turning everything on, my readings are spot on.
Well.. if you need futher help, I can post photoes if you're stuck, but it'll take a while, since I'm using my backup PC, as my other PC is out, and I'll need to install the camera drivers, etc. etc. to get it working.
If you want the datalogs.. yeah.. I have them but not with the AFR graph, and I'll post them this weekend, once I do a run and log the AFR through the D14 pin.
oh yeah.. running open loop gets more throttle response at low rpms.. but fuel consumption goes to hell. :P
