help!! my 20v idling problem!!

[levin818]

Alex, your intake rubber piping's (connected to AFM and surge tank) clip is koyak, and your Open pod filter that mated with AFM doesn't join properly with the rubber piping. You need to sorted out this area otherwise you will always have vacuum leak at the join.

Please also find and put back the missing 4 trumpet (stock).

 

[D7zul]

my SVT idling problem solved..

spray the Carb Cleaner until it chokes the engine and let it run for a minute or two..

i do it a few times & everything OK

 

[alex_khoo]

Alex, your intake rubber piping's (connected to AFM and surge tank) clip is koyak, and your Open pod filter that mated with AFM doesn't join properly with the rubber piping. You need to sorted out this area otherwise you will always have vacuum leak at the join.

Please also find and put back the missing 4 trumpet (stock).

i oledi change the CLIP to new 1 and tape the both rubber piping with( white tape-waterpaip use 1)to make sure it not leaking...
i cant find back 4 trumpet (stock)...it remove oledi few year ago like i say but it not kacau my idling since i take it off

---------- Post added at 12:15 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:13 PM ----------

my SVT idling problem solved..

spray the Carb Cleaner until it chokes the engine and let it run for a minute or two..

i do it a few times & everything OK

spary which area bro zul? AFM meter?

 

[D7zul]

this is what i do..

start engine.. spray from AFM meter.. make sure ur air filter is removed 1st.. u won't wanna get the filter wet..

spray until it chokes.. don't let the engine die.. rev if neccesary & do it a few times..

then i do this.. rev & spray very2 long.. u'll see white smoke coming out of ur exhaust..

and ur done

Gudluck

 

[ahaw]

low/bad idling. what happen, idling stabilize @400-300 rpm. engine @ 248k km clocked. got 1 engine overheat history (due to water pump kaput, kills the knock sensor).

what i do (so far) ; 1) replace breather grommet 2) change igniter from denso iridium to bosch fusion 3) remove, clean and reinstall throttle body (normal clean no dismantle) 4) inspect and clean iscv valve (lots of black stuff) 5) check all vacuum hoses for condition. (did found some bad/crack hoses) 6) do fpr (vacuum @ 40psi) and distributor setting.

Now, the idle still around 300-400, but with better throttle response and pickup (maybe bcos o new igniter plug and tb cleaning). the 1st gear '2-3 seconds lag' still there, ignored.
test diagnose got engine code '24'. air sensor...
During this check, a lot of parts need servicing but i ignored it because the target, to get the desired idle by cleaning the iscv valve only (as suggested). thinking the 02 sensor died already, which i still collecting money to source a new unit. - an amateur diy std. -

Question. is it possible that the bad idle come from improper setting when replacing the TIMING BELT?

p/s: going to try D7zul direct clean method... thinking bout using crc/3m fuel injector cleaner, any suggestion?

 

[D7zul]

once an amateur mechanic overhaul my engine & wrongly set my timing..

my car won't go past 70km/h..

 

[bera]

can i park my problem and how i solved here in your thread... ?? to lazy to open new one...hehehe

for the past few days my car been acting up...
the symptom were
1. rough/high rpm idling
2. massive knocking
3. no vvt feel / engine tone change...

i had some free time so i decided to DIY...i might as well clean my iscv while i'm at it...

this are the basic tools needed...
1. carb cleaner
2. Phillips screwdriver. (normal one also can)
3. pair of pliers
4. replacement air hose (i'm using generic silicon hose 8mm...if you ask me...i'll advice using 6mm)

as a preparation...i highly suggest you remove your airfilter hose from the airbox to the plenum...


locate the iscv outlet which directly connect to inlet manifold...i already remove the clip as seen here...


remove the hose from the metal attachment...i prefer to do this from the top because its easier to do...a lot more working space compared to removing the hose from the iscv unit itself...


now locate the air intake rubber hose which feed air to iscv from your plenum...


here a view from another angle...


detach the rubber hose from the plenum...here i turn the hose slightly upward so that carb cleaning chemical dont spill all over the place...


spray the carb cleaner...i normally let the chemical soak for a while before draining the fluid via detached the rubber hose from the plenum...(repeat until self satisfied)

once satisfied...reinstall everything in reverse order...

use the extra carb cleaner i had left to check for vacuum leak...just spray it at those vacuum hose joints and end...if there is a leak...you'll notice slight drop in engine tone...I've done this test after reassemble the the whole thing above...

please take note...there a big different between fuel line and vacuum...don't ever interchange between those two...


what looks like your ordinary vacuum/air hose...


but upon close inspection... yikes...its already cracked and torn... only the clip holding it in place...this end is connected to the power steering vacuum line...it is sandwiched between the firewall and the underside of air intake plenum...a little bit hard to reach but i still can manage pull out and reinstall new hose without removing the plenum...

this vacuum traces back to the throttle body assembly...you can see in the first pic...i replaced the hose (noticed the blue one)...no wonder my car been acting up...my best guess is that the vacuum leak messed up the whole map sensor reading...hence the problem i listed above...

since changing the hose is practically a straight forward procedure...i wont go into much detail...measure it...cut to fit...and replace the old hose...once done...double check using carb spray method again...and readjust if still got leak...

post mortem result

1. idling now spot on 950 rpm when engine is at operating temperature.
2. iscv function improve (tested as per service manual method)
3. improved and can feel the vvt kick in again... yeaayyy....
4. no more knocking

happy DIY'ing

DISCLAIMER:
this is by no right the right way to do things...and i will not be held responsible if somehow or somewhat you manage to f*&ked up your car/engine/ride by following this/my method...

 

[Mr.Chaser]

As D7zul said:
sharing = caring :top:

 

[alex_khoo]

my car idling problem still not settle!! haizz....bored go here go there workshop change this change tat and problem still there now i juz unplug the ISCV soket to drive(idling abit high 1300-1500rpm) but better than alway die engine

 

[bera]

my car idling problem still not settle!! haizz....bored go here go there workshop change this change tat and problem still there now i juz unplug the ISCV soket to drive(idling abit high 1300-1500rpm) but better than alway die engine

aiyoo...still not solve ehh...this is last year thread...i thought solve already

but before you give up...give it one last look at vacuum hose...

in my case...me myself wouldn't suspect it was as simple as a problematic hose...check everything here and there (like a pro:sarcasm)... took all afternoon... but the lastly find out the culprit is in plain sight...(*&#^@^#*&#

maybe can compare with friend car with similar layout...park side by side...snap couple of pic for reference...then DIY at home...easy and simple to do...relatively cheap also

and by the look of my old vacuum hose...make me worry about my fuel line condition...maybe that also need changing sometime soon... :s:

 

[alex_khoo]

ya...oledi takde hati wan to go workshop againt!!! coz after tukar ini itu ..lastly they say CHANGE to full bt wirng (SHOULD BE) ok ...this few month i oso drive car with ISCV soket unplug onli...hahaha....which vacuum hose should check??...last time service 4thorttle time change almost ALL vacuum hose behind!!

 

[bera]

ya...oledi takde hati wan to go workshop againt!!! coz after tukar ini itu ..lastly they say CHANGE to full bt wirng (SHOULD BE) ok ...this few month i oso drive car with ISCV soket unplug onli...hahaha....which vacuum hose should check??...last time service 4thorttle time change almost ALL vacuum hose behind!!

simply put...check all (all that you can or better yet refer the manual)...emphasizing "check thoroughly"...in my case it was power steering vacuum line...damn hard to see...and damn hard to reach...at first look mine appears visually ok...it took me some time to open the clip and examine the hose one by one...when inspect closely...what i find i'll say "huge" tear... enough to mess up with intake manifold pressure...eventually f^&ked up the MAP sensor reading... but i supposed it will be a different case if ST with afm

since you said already changed the hose...then check for leaks...can use carb cleaner to do it...

can refer this video on how to check...

How To Find A Vacuum Leak - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube

with old engine like this have to trial and error...always got bugs to troubleshoot...

 

[me2kimi]

As for me, ISCV cleaning is such a waste. Coz spraying it with carb cleaner are not gonna totally clean it.
Here is what's I've experienced. After quite number of times cleaning iscv I've fed up already. Went to halfcut to get an iscv. Changed it in my car and can feel it improve a bit.

Then since got a spare iscv, ti's time to operate it. I've removed all iscv parts include inlet & outlet steel pipe. Now I know that spraying with carb cleaner is such a waste. Damn dirty at the rotary valve. I can felt a presence of small stone inside the rotary valve, and can felt obstacle while manually turning it.

Cleaned it with brush and cotton bud until the rotary valve shining. Put this iscv in the engine and it perform far better especially at 2k-4k rpm BUT STILL NOT IMPROVING INTERMITTENT ENGINE STALL.

You can can see close up rotary valve picture before and after cleaning at my blog.

 

[bera]

hahaha... inside of mine probaly look like s**t compare to yours... what i did its a poor-man-job anyway... not so through as you...i was looking for the vacuum leak...i might as well spray it there as well...

and lucky me...it solve a lot of problem that been bug'in my engine...

ps://avid reader of your blog...keep it up...

 

[D7zul]

stone in ISCV? mayb u use open trumpet b4

bad idling? mayb u need to change all d hose in ur engine. the hoses already serves ur engine more than 15yrs already.. they r all tired already.. y don't u 'retire' them