engine or electronic error??????

picks

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hi guys, emergency again,

mentioned earlier that the car engine just die out (sei foh) when idling, as when slowing down for humps, turns... then got my car fixed with 2 pieces of EIDS, which is for idling control. kindda solve the problem for a while, until this morning. (and i should mention that the car has not been driven for almost a month) nightmare comes back.
anyone got any idea???? please help???? mine is a fully stock gtr with suction kit and bov kit only. now with EIDS H1.
 

kaminari

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Hi bro,

It`s hard to assume what problem being occured to your car by the statement.Best is run a car diagnosis.There is a lot possibility might be such as:

- AFM sensor
- Crank sensor
- AAC valve

Try check those.By assuming your car idling at normal speed is ok, and problm only when low rev/idling....possibility mostly is related to your AAC valve.
 

picks

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wow, there's so many thing to look out for, btw, wat's AAC valve? but no time to send it to workshop for "full body" check up at the moment. I was wondering could it be the alternator?
ps, any workshop in particular that u can recomd for the diagnose? went links last 2 times, their services are satisfying, but still not quite found the root cause.
 

Mistaken_Identity

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hi guys, emergency again,

mentioned earlier that the car engine just die out (sei foh) when idling, as when slowing down for humps, turns... then got my car fixed with 2 pieces of EIDS, which is for idling control. kindda solve the problem for a while, until this morning. (and i should mention that the car has not been driven for almost a month) nightmare comes back.
anyone got any idea???? please help???? mine is a fully stock gtr with suction kit and bov kit only. now with EIDS H1.

Had the same problem on my EVO...Found out it's the AF sensor gave way.... But first, try to change back the ori BOV...
 

NISMO S-TUNE

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Did your battery meter stayed normal or drop? If it is the alternator, your voltage meter will drop bellow 14, and if the meter show 14 and above, then the alternator is still good!
You might want to check your fuel pump, as sometimes it can't deliver enough fuel to your system and will result the engine die down.
 

kaminari

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If car jerking at full throttle, 3rd gear and car black smoke(rich)out...possibility is AFM meter or AF sensor is out.

The AAC valve is the valve controlling the in/out air for idling especially when throttle off and aircond idling.Most common in GTR this thing is out wthn times.AAC valve problem would make the car die during off throttle or low rev/idling and the idling not stable.

Crank sensor problem always make your car idling up and down during idling....like those high cam~ ...sumtimes car die off and hardly to start.

alternator : wht`s ur voltage reading now during idling?if average arnd 14v then fine.R34 hates low battery~check your battery voltage
 
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S

semperfi

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Had the same problem previously. Changed into a bigger battery. You might wanna start getting a new battery 1st and then source out your problem from there on. If the problem still persist, it could be the remaining few problems that both S-Tune and kaminari said. Narrows down the search too.
 

eyong

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Any good reputable workshop would have a Launch diagnostic module ... Usually it's only about RM80-100 for the test (up where I am at anyway) :proud:



But my bet would be the AFM's ... Those sucker, REALLY sucks ... :banghead:
 

a31gtst

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Before coming to any conclusions whatsoever why not take the time and take your car to your mechanic or a reputable one who has experience handling Skylines/RB's and get them to check.
It shouldn't take too long for an experienced mechanic to find the problem thru the process of elimination. Its likely to be the AAC, afm or the O2 sensor but lets not get into any conclusions yet.

If you are unsure of where to go the sifu's here can recommend, if you'd like I can give you my contact to a good mechanic who can solve this for you relatively quickly and reasonably priced as well.


Cheers
 

NISMO S-TUNE

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Try Links Dyno at Sunway and look for Kee. He mess with bunch of Skyline and not bad as well!
 

Driftmeister

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Who install the EIDS for you? The mechanic should check everything that is faulty first before using the EIDS as a quick fix. Check your battery health too since a low voltage will give you a lot of problems. AFM is another usual culprit. Hope you managed to find the problem, sure is sucks to drive the car in that condition.
 

picks

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thanks for all the suggestions BROS!

actually done diagnose to the car in ipoh once, forgot the name, if not mistaken , replica auto, everythign was fine back then.

did the EIDS in LINKS, actually KEE recommend to install this as the manual says so, but can really feel the difference with EIDS and car not jerking anymore at full throttle. which was used to happen, only very minor 1. Thought everything sorted out back then.

called a friend, his is kindda fully modified gtr34, voltage reading is same as mine, which is less than 14V, mine is 13.6V avg. idling time even drop less than 11V, just for few mili secs though.
so, battery sounds like the fire starter? any battery to be specific for gtr? coz the last time i change my battery is in local mechanics, teluk intan, they don't even know how to take it out, end up dissemble everything that's in the way.:confused:
so, any specification? thanks again BROS!
 

eyong

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Haha ... That name does rings a bell ... :hmmmm:


Anyway, as for battery AC Delco so far is common and had no problem with it. The jerking problem as I experienced was fouled AFM's ... Cleaned them and everything went away. As for the EID's, not that I know of anyone used it, but a voltage stabilizer wouldn't hurt considering a small cost on top of the battery :adore:
 

NISMO S-TUNE

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PM Semperfi as he changed his battery before.

If your voltage drop bellow 14, sound like your alternator is giving way already (I might be wrong but no harm to have it tested). Another alternative is, install a good ground wiring kit (big cable), this is might stabilize your voltage on your car. Bare in mind that, this will NOT increase HP in your car, but will improve the voltage system and the battery will last longer. If you installed sound system inside your car, this gonna help you out a lot! :proud: :proud: :proud:
 

kaminari

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picks:

I guess u should check your wiring and alternator before change new battery.Sound like your car have a shortage/leak....try check your last wiring at EIDS or ECU surround.Missing tapping Earth wiring should cause the problem too.

You could check your battery cond only by turning Acce key ON...healthy battery should be abt 12V.

EIDS just stabilize your AFM voltage especially during off throttle and help for those owner who change aftermarket BOV which outer release.STD OEM BOV (return air to turbine) or aftermarket ECU would not need EIDS

Hope that makes you clear
 
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CSx8213x

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Bro Kaminari , the AAC valve is a stepper motor ?
 

picks

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Thanks everybody!
sure will have to check the alternator first, starting engine time feels difficult too.
ai...thought maintaining stock car should be easy, fact is, maintaining stock car in a SMALL TOWN is definitely not easy!

Kaminari: thanks for all the input, will definitely have sifus check out all those 3 parts to be secured. sounds like this 3 things giving quite a bit of headache ya, time to get to know more on them.

cheers everybody!
 

eyong

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Do share when you manage to solve the problem ... Am sure all of us are keen of learning abit as well ... Cheers ... :itsme:
 

picks

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updates!

not yet check on the essential elements though, got no time presently :p, so, tried the battery 1st, and drive it at least once in 2 days *particularly for gym only*, (though short distance, at least on the move :) ), condition improved, and so far nothing goes wrong yet, which i hope will never go wrong again,
but the car kindda jerking at very slow speed (2nd gear), wonder if it's the EIDS setting.
got my car driven for a year now, anymore parts in particular should be checked up by reputable workshop as the car should be considered as secondhand, though it's recond, and wont know how the previous owner keeps the car. especially fluids at trunk???

cheers !!

Bump: updates!

not yet check on the essential elements though, got no time presently :p, so, tried the battery 1st, and drive it at least once in 2 days *particularly for gym only*, (though short distance, at least on the move :) ), condition improved, and so far nothing goes wrong yet, which i hope will never go wrong again,
but the car kindda jerking at very slow speed (2nd gear), wonder if it's the EIDS setting.
got my car driven for a year now, anymore parts in particular should be checked up by reputable workshop as the car should be considered as secondhand, though it's recond, and wont know how the previous owner keeps the car. especially fluids at trunk???

cheers !!
 

eyong

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updates!

not yet check on the essential elements though, got no time presently :p, so, tried the battery 1st, and drive it at least once in 2 days *particularly for gym only*, (though short distance, at least on the move :) ), condition improved, and so far nothing goes wrong yet, which i hope will never go wrong again,
but the car kindda jerking at very slow speed (2nd gear), wonder if it's the EIDS setting.
got my car driven for a year now, anymore parts in particular should be checked up by reputable workshop as the car should be considered as secondhand, though it's recond, and wont know how the previous owner keeps the car. especially fluids at trunk???

cheers !!

Heard EIDs were used on a specific car, not particularly on Skyline's ... I may be wrong, and not wanting to offend anyone as well. I have known minor jerking on lower rev .. around 2500-3000 rpm, did all the cleaning including throttle, manifold, but best is have the afm's cleaned. That solved it completely and cost a few bucks only.

Fluid at the truck's for the attesa (ie. 4WD and A-lsd) units ... You want to keep that topped up ... By the way, during idling, do you see if the fluid within the canister swirl / moving?
 

cosmicgate

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hello bro i can't say i'm a pro but gauging from your situation you should check on the followings:

a)your AFM
b)timing belt
c)cam angle sensor (cas)
d)clutch
e)aac valve
f)compression?

i know i had same problem before.Your case really sound like AFM problem and i dunno why u wanna install EIDS in the first place =-(.My case alot of mechanics check everything also can't find the problem, in the end i found out that if i press down the air filter the rpm is different, i let go, rpm different again. so i took out the afm, i check it, everything seems to be okay, clean it with carb cleaner, doesnt fix the problem. So i got bold, i took off the afm, cut open the afm to get to the board, i noticed that one of the wire inside has broken off. I googled around and found out that it is the signal feed wire, no wonder my car sometimes dun wanan start, stops at humps etc. I bought a cheap solder and solder that wire back and guess what? no more problems on my car! It is as simple as that! when mechanics can't even find what's wrong! Unfortunately u have to "cut" open the afm box to get inside loh, could be pretty tricky but if i can do it why can't you? another alternative is get someone which u knwo has good afm and change it and see if it fix the prob o not.

i know another case, of my friend. He send to alot of mechanics all of them also scratch head dunno whats wrong.everything seems perfect! Until he got frustrated go back home, wasted all resources he really dunno what to do already so he got ambitious and open up his cam belt cover just to find his cam belt slacking like long foreskin. The belt is so stretched that it "jumped" tooth, causing all the silly stallings etc. He replaced the belt, adjust the cam angle sensor gues what? fixed it. Another case of, mechanics looks like monkey but he managed to found the problem out of ramdom luck.

3rd case...same like timing belt case but somehow ur cas just "run" position because of timng belt stretch or cas not tight enuff? weird if u ask me, but there really is such case!!!

4h case, really really weird case.Not really sure about this one but a misaligned clutch can cause stalling? Not sure about this one, but somehow i got a friend who changed clutch, after 6 months the gearbox/clutch starting to act weird. On 1st/2nd have to press gas pedal abit before release clutch if nto will sei for something like that...not really sure about this case can have a look also.

5th case, aac valve dirty. Sometimes aac valve gets dirty because of years of usage and builup. Can cause hunting also if it isn't afm problem. You can use the "improper" way of open the gate of AAC valve bigger so can bypass all that clogging inside.Interim solution loh but if u want can take it out and give it a good cleanup. also then u need to tune it back to proper rpm.eg:disconnect aac valve feed, turn some screw in ecu full anti clockwise and plump in aac valve feed and tune.for more info google.com

6th case is lousy compression in cylinder, or cylinder not firing at all. You will feel that the car is super suddering not because of the grunt of the engine but its from ur cylinder not firing at all or problem with cylinder. i THINK this is the most unlikely case lah coz im sure ur mechanic will know if he's a mechanic but....u wont know *roll eyes*

by the way bro, just some advice from me, not really expert but i think these some pointers might help u on the look out at the more common "missed" problem.

If theres anything wrong, please correct me! knowledge sharing is caring!!
 
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picks

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thanks so much for the analysis, really useful information. at least i know i'm not the only 1 having this prob, but sure i'm the lousiest to have not able to sort it out my own, :p
the car is still under observation i would say, after the battery renewal, so far it hasn't give me problem yet, just that have to make sure i drive it daily, or at least once every 2 days.
heard of carb cleaning process as well, only that still not yet deal with it.

Bump: thanks so much for the analysis, really useful information. at least i know i'm not the only 1 having this prob, but sure i'm the lousiest to have not able to sort it out my own, :p
the car is still under observation i would say, after the battery renewal, so far it hasn't give me problem yet, just that have to make sure i drive it daily, or at least once every 2 days.
heard of carb cleaning process as well, only that still not yet deal with it.
 

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