Decent price for B series NGK plug cables?

Zeroed

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Anyone knows where to get a set of B-series NGK plug cables at decent prices?

I dont see NGKs around often...
 

shiroitenshi

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Err.. where are you from? There's a bundle of them around KL performance shops...

I'm using a set myself.
 

Zeroed

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Im from PJ. Hmm so they're all indeed RM400+ ?
Thanks, I was wondering if they were overpriced. Heh.

Went to a few places and they didnt have it for B series though. Ill try Amoil.
 

shiroitenshi

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Hmm.. couldn't locate my previous NGK plug cable thread.. probably got lost in the database reshuffle a while back.

Anyway.. make that one other set..

After 3XK mileage (yes, I do travel that far in the time span from when I posted that thread to now)

The cables are degrading... EMI interference can be heard in the speakers.. but very2 little. Changing to new cables eliminated it.

Some guy wanted my old cables, so sold them.

Actually the cables were about RM380-400 retail when I bought them last year.. has the price risen already? (O_o).. I haven't check cable prices for a long time already.. Most of the guys here like the look of the braided spoon cables.

I think I saw them at a few places apart from Amoil too at that price, but forgot how long ago that was... sometime last year, I think.

Good cables, stock size allows for factory fit.

Quite 'powderful' too.. of course, I changed from totally worn 'api terbelah/splitfire' cables, so that kind of rating cannot count.

But the sticker was totally misleading.. 130% increase? Hahaha.. bloody marketeer..

30% better than stock lah.. what 130%?...
 

Zeroed

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moshpit21: Where!? :biggrin:


Shiroitenshi: Hmm cables wear out that fast?
130% increase... (in spark power - super small print) is it? hehe

Im on some pretty old stock cables now (90k+ mileage i think!). So I should expect some pretty nice difference eh. :)
 

moshpit21

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heat range doesnt go with the cable, it goes with ur engine specification.

taken from NGK website:

"Heat range

The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.

The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.

The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.

Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage"

-peace-
 

shiroitenshi

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So long, but in summary..

Colder plugs allow higher ignition advance/higher comp without the plug tip heating up so much and causing pre-ignition.. :P
 

moshpit21

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but i like this part only:

"..When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage"

-peace-
 

shiroitenshi

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but i like this part only:

"..When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage"

-peace-
Well, that's why when going for a tune, best run plug ranges around 7-8, it will allow higher ignition than what the stock plug allow.

But for daily driver, you can use stock plugs to prevent fouling.. just don't rev it to the max.. :P

I'm running 7s for the past 6 months on my B16a... no fouling, nothing.. and I'm still on the stock ECU...

Car still starts on the first try every morning.. :P

I think it's safe to say that 7s are still daily drivable..

8's are also possible, but I think the plugs would foul faster..

Which reminds me that it's time for me to check the plugs.. (>.<)
 

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