4AGE Constant 9000rpm revving

sexycar

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Hi there...

Can I know what recipe to build a 4AGE 16v 145hp engine
so that I can constantly rev it to 9000rpm ... i want it
to be reliable & can stand constant 9000rpm revving for
drifting purposes
 

limandy

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simple ... just tekan minyak finish... jangan lepas ... just that simple... : D
 

ae92levin

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u want the engine to be able to reach 9000rpm or u want to know what precautions to take so ur engine dont letup??


4age should be able to take that kind of rev. just make sure u have good engine oil, and just make sure the engine is in good condition..
 

20v_ke35

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u got to change ur camshaft, spring valve and too be save more, get the engine component well balace. not even u canget to rev 9k constantly but gain abit hp too.
 

Acoustic

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The cheapest & safest solution

transplant 20v MAP engine - it is already 150bhp +/-5
then use 272 cams in and out

if got money change valves and springs - if don't have also no problem.

Get a engine under 50k mileage and you won't need to overhaul or balance.
 

EFN

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sexycar said:
Hi there...

Can I know what recipe to build a 4AGE 16v 145hp engine
so that I can constantly rev it to 9000rpm ... i want it
to be reliable & can stand constant 9000rpm revving for
drifting purposes
The only reason you want to Rev constantly at 9000RPM or 8500RPM or 11000RPM even, is because your motor can still produce power at that powerband. But traditional 4A-GE 16V peak power is only at around 7000RPM, so even if you can rev all the way to 9000RPM is will only waste fuel and put exessive wear to the engine. 4A-GE 20V peak power is at 7800RPM so it is still okay to Rev all the way to the rev cut which is also 7800PRM - Yes on the standard tacho it will show that the rev cut is set at 8100 - 8300RPM but that particular Denso tacho is notoriously light.

Ok back to the main point, 9000RPM and above is an exclusive zone that most NA tuners cherish about. First there is the limit of the ECU will allow u to rev, for 4A-GE 16V I believe the Rev Cut is at 7500RPM. The only way to get over this obstacle is to either replace the ECU with Aftermarket Performance EMS or send it to someone who know how to hack them (don't ask me, I dunno).

Next to survive 9000RPM and still making power, the Cams, Valvetrain, Head and Bottom End will have to be rebuild/replaced with performance materials. This is a very exhaustive subject so I would not elaborate more on this.
 

LevinTE27

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for drift there is alot of accidently rev pass 8000rpm with carb or standalone ecu.
sexycar he looking forward to built reliable & can stand constant 9000rpm revving engine use for drifting.

For 4AG 16v, u need sets of King con rod Bearing and toda/trd/hks valve spring. if have extra cash can high speed balance up the crank how ever stock 4ag crank in factory already balanced.
 

rollakid

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well, IMHO i dun really see the posibility in making a 9krpm 145hp 4ag... cuz when you want to rev to 9k (rev cut at 9k or something) you'll probably run around 170~ hp.

anyway, IMHO again, a drifting engine should have a wider powerband. i'm not saying that you can't drift with a narrow powerband engine or anything, but i just feel that with a wider powerband its easier to do so.

want a 4ag for drifting? get tomei's parts :D like the one they used in D1. they are for sell but i dunno how to get them here. Head stud, forged piston 81.5mm bore, 304cam w/ 11mm lift, main stud and ladder set, exhaust gasket (?), forged crankshaft, forged flywheel bolt, and some strengthen timing belt :D totaled 708800 yen exclude tax, or about RM25k, and you'll be making 200hp+ and make power from 4-10k rpm

but wait.. alot more stuff missing, conrod, rodbolt, crank bearing, head gasket, ITB, ECU, extractor, valve train kit, adjustable crank pulley and many more... heheheheh gotta cost a bomb
 

limandy

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sure lah... mangkok, "you want to rev to 9k rpm".. is not plan to blow the engine meh ? hahahaahaha
 

sexycar

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yea levinte72 is right.. when you're drifting your eyes won't
look at the tacho... most of the time I hold my drift at high
rpms... & I cant be watching the tacho when someone is
tsuisoing my backside.... with hands working the counter,
downshifting, legs modullating throttle, eyes watching for
road & brains estimating & doing calculations at the
same time, u wont be able to look at your tacho... I just
wanna build a reliable engine for high rpm revving & wouldnt
blow up with constant accidental redlining as well... maybe
no need to be 9000rpm... good enough to hold constant
high revving is enough..... how I wish if I can put a VTEC in
my car & smoke all levins......... *vanishes away sideways
from this forum*

 
Last edited:

rollakid

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so basically is that you want an engine that is durable so you won't hit redline all the time accidentally and blow the engine? 16v won't need to rev to over 7k to get peak power.. so just rev cut at 7k :D no worry blow up liau..

or a more feasible way IMHO would probably is to swap the crank bearing to TRD parts or other aftermarket one, use ARP rodbolt or something just as strong, if got the cash go for better conrod or maybe forge piston, like that high rev you'll have lesser chance to blow the engine liau :D
 

sexycar

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hmm... what bout swapping a 16v GZE engine, hi-comp
it & mod it to NA specs.... cos a GZE has strong internals
& block as well... more cost effective dont u all think so?
 

SKY999

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I think no need use 4agze engine.16v red top cheaper n hav a strong block too....... but if u wan high rev.... get a 20v is much more easier
 

rollakid

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sexycar said:
hmm... what bout swapping a 16v GZE engine, hi-comp
it & mod it to NA specs.... cos a GZE has strong internals
& block as well... more cost effective dont u all think so?
well.. FWIK, 16v small port, 20v and gze all have the same crankshaft, so i assume its just as strong, but no doubt gze block is tougher.

and for gze internal, the conrod is H beam instead of I beam like the rest, thus heavier, built for force induction. i have no doubt it is strong, but i doubt that it is suitable for NA high reving cuz its heavier too.

concerning the bearing i'm not so sure. but my 2 cent opinion is that gze's built to withstand high force, instead of rev fast. but there's alot of gze being run as NA too as i read.

just my 2 cent tho...

ps. another thing i've heard is that the big port 4ag, having a lighter and weaker internal, actually easiest to rev just because of its lighter. so you have to get parts thats just as light but alot stronger.
 

TRD16v

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limandy said:
sure lah... mangkok, "you want to rev to 9k rpm".. is not plan to blow the engine meh ? hahahaahaha

mangkuk hayun is u la.. dun kutuk my 16v engine ok? wahhaahahahaahahahahhahahaaha! :D





Regards,
Mike
 

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